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Tim Campbell-Travel Writer, 31 Battery Hill, Southampton (2024)

06/07/2024

MOROCCO

AGADIR - BEACH TOWN

Agadir is a smallish city in southern Morocco, a beachside enclave that seems to solely exist for tourists. It is one of several Ryanair destinations from northern Europe, and a cheaper alternative to Spain.

With 400,000 inhabitants within the city limits, Agadir's numbers swell in the summer. However, greater Agadir municipality has almost a million residents. Its main major asset is its beach, and its location along the southern Moroccan coast.

Sat on the south west coast, Agadir's average temperature is 27C. This is less than inland Marrakesh, and other desert destinations, of around 32-35C. Being close to the sea has its advantages with a more temperate climate and cooling winds.

There is a pleasant esplanade along the beach but very few restaurants or vendors. Most are hawkers trying to push their sales on individuals, along with the usual beggars asking for money. If you want cheap souvenirs, sunglasses or watches then it's the perfect place.

The city of Agadir is fairly uninteresting with the usual mosques, markets and urban areas, but with several parks and open spaces. It has been destroyed by three different earthquakes over the centuries, the latest of which was in 2022, and rebuilt again and again.

There are plenty of side trips and tours that can be taken from the city, but they mainly include sunset cruises and ATV's in the desert with camel rides. The main piece of historical architecture in the city is the 16th century fort accessed by cable car. Agadir means "Fortress" in the Berber language.

The moorish style fort was built in the 1550's, and today includes a small museum. Access is by a long walk to the summit of the hill, or by the new cable car installed in the last decade. Its 10 kms of beaches though is the main draw for most tourists arriving daily, either directly or via Marrakesh.

Agadir's claim to fame is that it was the sardine capital of the world in the 1980's, and, even today, is the largest port in Morocco. It also has 340 days of sunshine per year. The fish market, with some amazing fresh seafood, (at bargain prices so don't forget to haggle) is one of the largest in Morocco and worth a visit if you are there on holiday.

Watch out for the taxi drivers who will drive you around in the wrong direction twice to be able to get more from their fare. They routinely pick up people who stop them in the street, so you might be sharing the taxi with another couple or an old lady with her shopping.

It will also help if you speak French because very few of the locals speak English. Being a an ex French colony like Algeria, most Moroccans were taught French at school and speak it fluently, but with arabic as their main language.

Agadir is great for families, and is primarily a beach destination. It has little nightlife and basic amenities. It is cheap and cheerful at best, but an interesting destination for a week or as a mixed trip with Marrakesh.

It's also possible to fly into Marrakesh (from northern Europe), spend a week, take the bus to Agadir (3 hours) and then fly home again from Agadir. Or vice versa.

30/06/2024

MOROCCO

MARRAKESH - THE TOURIST CAPITAL OF MOROCCO

Rabat may be the actual capital of Morocco, but Marrakesh is the unofficial one. Say Morocco, and everyone will think Marrakesh, not Rabat.

All the low cost flights from Europe land in Marrakesh. The airline of Morroco is Royal Air Maroc but their hub is Casablanca.
This is Ryanair's hub and a true budget friendly destination.

With a local population of just under one million, Marrakesh swells in size every month in the summer bringing in a total of about 3 million tourists per year. This has reduced from 13 million per year that visited before Covid. Today it is the fourth largest city in Morocco.

Its mild climate in winter makes it a popular destination for northern Europeans wanting to escape the dreary winters in the north. It is popular with Sedes, Germans and British tourists. At less than 100 Euros round trip, the many destinations in Morocco are good value for money.

This stunning city is full of colour. From the sand beach, to the blue sky, to the multi-furnishings in the small riads, to the djellabas worn by the Berber natives, to the spices in the markets. Its muslim culture is evident with mosques everywhere.

There is a central market and main square in Marrakesh called Jemaa-El-Fnaa. This is the famous one seen on tv all the time which features snake charmers, camel rides, fire eaters, jugglers and other entertainers. The fully functioning market is full of fresh fruit and vegetables as well, and one of three main medinas in the city.

Close to Marrakesh are several tourist day trips. One of which worth seeing is the Ouzoud waterfalls. This monstrous cascade of water is 330 feet high (100m), and only second in Africa to the great Victoria Falls of Zambia at 355 feet.

Another great day out is a trip to the Atlas mountains only a few hours away. There is also a waterpark near the city popular with families, and balloon rides aplenty across the open desert at sunrise. All at a cost.

One attraction not to miss in the city is the Bahia Palace. This stunning building is full of exquisite tiles and marble. Its geometric patterns and amazing design will take your breath away. At only 30 Dirhams to enter, (about GBP 2.50 or 3 Euros) it is a bargain to see some of the finest islamic and moorish architecture in the world.

Unfortunately, poverty is endemic in Morocco, and Marrakesh is no exception, despite its high tourist numbers. Locals can be seen riding donkeys and carts, while others are in brand new BMW's. The disparity of the nation is easy to see. Beggars are everywhere, and it is difficult not to give.

Unfortunately "rich" white tourists are also scammed and pick-pocketed constantly. So, if you visit, don't wear excessive jewellry or carry lots of cash. Morocco is fast becoming a card nation, but most transactions are still in cash and using a card machine is expensive for shopkeepers.

Food is cheap here. No pork of course, being a muslim nation, and very little beef. The main staples are chicken and lamb with rice, or couscous. Vegetables and fruit are plentiful though, but there are few vegetarian restaurants.

Due to the masses of tourists it is easy to find Italian, French, Irish and Spanish food, and alcohol, everywhere. You can also get camel meat at the butcher too if you want to try it.

If you like the sun, are not too fussy what you eat and can't spare much for a holiday, then Marrakesh is the place for you. Only 2-4 hours flying time from Europe doesnt really make it a weekend getaway, but spending a week here won't hurt your wallet.

25/06/2024

SOUTH KOREA

SEOUL - THE CAPITAL

Seoul is the capital of South Korea for so many reasons. It has the most palaces, the most tourist attractions, the biggest skyscrapers and the best of everything else. It is undoubtably the top city in all of South Korea.

The city's most famous child is the area called Gangnam. Gangnam style was born and ushered in by the musician, Psy, in July 2012. Since then Seoul has become more of a tourist destination for those wanting to emulate Psy and his song. It is a tourist destination in its own right though, as there is everything you could ever want in this cool metropolis.

Like many cities in South Korea, Seoul is full of white apartment tower blocks as far as the eye can see. These house the almost ten million residents who thrive in this city of electronics and light industry. Smaller than Tokyo or Beijing by far, Seoul epitomises the classic Asian centre of urbanisation mixed with chic.

Downtown has a large square for parades, and plenty of monuments to glorify past leaders, such as Sejong the Great and Admiral Yi Sun-Sin. Its main touristic attraction though lies in its grand royal palaces and ancient Hanok villages, all surrounded by modern art and museums.

Seoul's palaces are a major draw for locals and tourists alike. The locals like to dress up in old Hansean costume and walk around the old buildings having their photos taken. It's like dressing up in your sunday best, but putting on 18th century clothes to be part of the history of the building you're in.

Close to Seoul is its old enemy, North Korea. The DMZ or "Demilitarized zone" is its own tourist attraction. It is here that you can buy North Korean money, and peer at the miserable souls across the border through telescopes at the same time. The site houses a tunnel that the North Koreans built under the "wall", to accommodate 30,000 soldiers per hour to pass through (so they say). As small as this tunnel is, this seems unlikely.

It is interesting to see the old Korean war memorabilia and equipment, as well as the bridge where spies were once swapped in the dead of night. Central Seoul also has a large war memorial park full of interesting tanks, guns, jeeps and aircraft from the 1950's war. It has its own monuments to the leaders of the day and the glorification of its battle with communism.

The competition still remains though to outcompete each other. One story goes that South Korea put up a 320 foot pole on their side of the border with a large flag on it, so North Korea did the same, but with a slightly larger pole at 525 feet. South Korea then erected another just slightly taller than the one the North Koreans put up. So It went on until South Korea finally gave up and let the North Koreans "win" by having the tallest pole.

Seoul is the foodie capital of South Korea with hundreds of street vendors, restaurants and outlets with every kind of food imaginable. Admittedly they have few European outlets and concentrate more on Asian food as expected, but it is unique with its own flavours.

Bibimbap and Kimchi fried rice are the two main dishes, but Bulgogi, Sundubu, Japchae and Mandu dumplings are also favourites on the menus. One unusual dish though is live small octopus. Eat at your peril, because apparently the suckers on the live octopus will stick in your throat, making swallowing difficult.

Seoul's art scene and modern city buildings are incredibly eccentric. It is a testament to the people of the city that they live in the shadow of nuclear war, yet continue to thrive in a modernist world where peace and tranquility prevail. A visit to the Gangnam area exhibits some of the most amazing pieces of art anywhere in the world.

A city that sprang up after a war that almost destroyed the whole peninsular, is a reminder to the rest of the world that peace is possible all the time. Seoul should not be missed on a tour of Asia, it is one of the great cities of the world.

21/06/2024

Thanks to everyone who sent birthday wishes. Yes, I am now 70, but still looking forward to every day. ❤️

10/06/2024

SOUTH KOREA

JEJU ISLAND - Where Mermaids exist.

This small island of almost 700,000 people lies off the southern coast of South Korea. Its most famous treasures are the "Mermaids of Jeju".

These are women divers, who, at almost 80 years old, go diving everyday for Abalone shellfish off the rocky coast, and sell it to the general public. They are easily Jeju's biggest tourist attraction, and have been for 50 years.

Jeju is a tourist attraction in itself. Blessed with good weather and nice beaches, Jeju is a short flight from various cities in South Korea, and even some direct flights from Japan, Singapore and China. It is also an active volcanic island.

There are signs which state that at any time the pyroclastic rock can shoot out from the ground, high into the air, then come down and injure someone. So tourists have to be aware, even when walking around.

It's a small island. Not one you can walk around, but easily drive around in a few hours. With a population of only 370,000 it's only industries are tourism and fishing.

For the tourists though there is an abundance of things to do. Koreans primarily love the island because of its volcanic rock, but also its white sandy beaches.

It's kind of the Hawaii of Korea, and an escape destination for many city bound residents from Seoul and other major cities. Ito beach is famous and quite near the airport.

Like Hawaii and its pineapples, Jeju is famous for mandarins. This tropical fruit grows everywhere on the island and can be picked or purchased in just about every shop and market.

Jeju Island is a UNESCO recognised biosphere and a world natural heritage site. With a national park and volcanic coastline, plus Korea's highest peak, Jeju is an amazing destination.

28/05/2024

SOUTH KOREA

GWANGJU - Korea's Hidden Gem.

Sometimes when you travel, you come across a place that you want to spend longer than a day or two, Gwangju is one of those places. Established as a city in 57BC Gwangju has become famous for being the centre of student uprising in Korea.

In 1980, on May 17th, there was a military coup in this cosmopolitan city, but on May 18th the students and locals rebelled. Along with the soldiers who did not join the coup, they took back the city. However, 140 died in the rebellion.

Today there is May 18th square, and a free museum that describes the day with photos, along with bullet holes in the walls. The museum is just one of many things to do in Gwangju which has become a popular city for tourists and locals alike.

Just 291 kms from Seoul, the city has many attractions such as Sajik Observatory, May 18th Square (The Asian Cultural centre), Uchi Amusement Park, Penguin village, Guitar street, Youth Balsan Village, Art town, a great market, and more amazing parks, bridges and temples than you might see in a larger capital city.

From a commercial point of view Gwangju has the biggest wedding entertainment industry in the country. Every other shop on certain streets are full of wedding dresses, or a jewelry store for rings, or rental items required for wedding venues. Couples visit for the weekend to pick out rings or get ideas for their own wedding.

It is not the biggest city in South Korea, nor the best, but Gwangju has something for everyone. Make sure you stop by on your trip around South Korea.

12/05/2024

SOUTH KOREA

DAEGU - US ARMY BASE CENTRE

Daegu is an inland city in South Korea with a population of 2.5 million people. About ten thousand of those are US Army personnel, a legacy left from the US occupation during the 1950's Korean war. Today they are still helping protect the South of Korea from its problematic neighbour, North Korea.

Despite the obvious military presence of three large American garrisons, the city of Daegu has a unique charm. It is famous for its Chinese medecine cultural centre, Daegu 83 sky tower, a National museum, and E-world amusement park. It is also a major economic centre for textiles, electronics and apples. So famous for apples in South Korea in fact that it is known as "Apple City".

One of the more amazing features of the city is D**g Daegu, the large central railway station. It is part of a network that is second to none. With bullet trains and Maglev trains, an urban elevated railway, a metro and street trams, Daegu's transport system makes the city easy to navigate and connected to the rest of the urban area and country.

The military is intrinsic with Daegu, The train station has several different references, and there's a military museum in a National park not far away. Like most miltary installations in Korea the foreign occupiers are vey low key. North Korea is still a serious threat so certain personnel are needed for constant surveillance.

Today, a very International city, Daegu is cheap and affordable with good food, nightlife and a large western influence. It's the third largest city in South Korea and now becoming more popular to digital nomads looking for a great base to live and travel around Asia.

As a tourist destination its interests are limited, but a different cultural diversion from Seoul nonetheless. As a commercial centre it excels in many areas for electronics and automobiles, and continues to grow.

Unfortunately, like many cities in South Korea, it is plagued with thousands of apartment complexes which blight the horizon. Necessary because of its mountainous region and expanded population, the locals live like bees in hives, but in decent affordable accommodation.

27/04/2024

SOUTH KOREA

BUSAN - PORT CITY

Busan has history, a unique tourist district, and even an annual film festival, but it's famous for one thing, its port. If you've ever been to Rotterdam port in the Netherlands,which is gigantic, then you'll find that Busan is the Asian equivalent. With a population of almost 3.5 million Busan is Korea's second largest city after the capital Seoul.

As the first southern port of arrival in South Korea, Busan is a stark contrast from Japan. Apartment blocks by the thousands with every inch of ground covered by urban life. It differs from Japan in that it is like a Chinese megacity than a modern urban metropolis like Fukuoka or Sendai.

Busan is a fun place, there are things happening all the time. From the fish market to trips around the port, to colourful local villages, to an annual film festival, to a tower, to beaches, mountains and temples. It really has everything. The Railway station and port are being upgraded to accommodate even more tourists in South Korea's second metropolis.

One fun place in Busan is Gamcheon Culture village. A whole area set up for tourists where the houses and buildings are painted different colours. Korean tourists dress up in traditional dress and wander around the village, eating and drinking. They can even take photos from the fixed places set up for the best views across Busan.

The village is on a hill and easy to get to by bus or taxi. Small shops all sell souvenirs, and or food, but that's about all there is to do except wander around and take photos. It's a great way to spend an afternoon away from the bustle of the main city.

Another great place to visit is Jagalchi fish market down at the port. It is a huge two story building looking out over the bay filled with vendors selling all manner of fish and seafood from the area.
Sea cucumbers, mussels, shrimp, sea urchins and numerous species of fish are available for every discerming taste.

Right next to Jagalchi market you can find a tour boat which provides trips around the port for three hours, for about $10. It even has a dance floor on the lower level where tourists can practise their karaoke if they don't like the spectacular views. A bar on board provides plenty of dutch courage for a Karaoke and dancing session.

One unusual, but famous, thing about Busan, is that it holds an annual International Film Festival (BIFF) in the area called Haeundae-gu. It is the only one in South Korea and one of the largest in Asia. Film makers and actors come from all over the world to be a part of this festival which is as big in Asia as Cannes is in Europe.

Nearby Haeundae beach, catering to every sun seeker, has a sand festival in May and June. This unique event has artists from all over the world who visit to show off their talents by sculpting all manner of items in the sand.

Other things not to miss in this amazing city are; Busan tower with views across the city, Yongdusan park and Gukje market with its vast array of goods, street food and trendy fashion items.

Seoul may be the great capital of South Korea and the serious financial hub of this North Asian hub, but Busan is the centre of all things cultural and fun. This wonderful city is host to the World Expo in 2030 so try and pay a visit. A trip to Korea wouldn't be the same if you missed Busan.

22/04/2024

JAPAN

FUKUOKA - CITY OF ART

Fukuoka is a port city and one of the oldest in Japan. It was invaded by the mongols in the 13th century and became known for its temples and Fukuoka castle. Capital of the Kyushu region it has since developed to become a modern metropolis of approximately 1.5 million people.

One thing you'll notice when you visit Fukuoka is the art everywhere. From statues and reclining buddhas to modern art, paintings and murals. It may be at the bottom of the country, but it's at the top of the artistic charts in Japan with meditation, museums and colour. Aesthetic Zen gardens abound in this ancient city, but it is the statues that seem to come to life everywhere.

Statues such as the Nanzo-in reclining buddha in Sasaguri near Fukuoka. At 41m long and 11m high, the reclining Buddha is the same size as the New York's Statue of Liberty and credited as one of the biggest bronze statue in the world. Sasaguri is also home to many stone and concrete deities, all of which have their own symbolism.

Being on the coast Fukuoka has amazing shipping and seafood industries. Shipping for trade, but also ferries that go to South Korea and China. Seafood cuisine is every marine life imaginable with some of the freshest sushi in the world. It is a major foodie destination for Japanese tourists.

Like most of Japan, it is well worth visiting Fukuoka during late March to early April as the city is famous for its sakura season cherry blossom festival. With parades and floats, plus the natural colours of the season, make this a popular time to visit in the spring.

Fukuoka is also famous for the Hakata Yamakasa festival which is a 700 year old celebration which lasts two weeks. It comprises of parades, traditional races, traditional costume wearing and music. Other things not to miss are the folk museum, Ohori park, Kushida shrine, Marine world, the art museum, Fukuoka tower and Fukuoka castle.

Compared to other places in Japan, Fukuoka is more a mix of modern and traditional, but no less so than other larger towns or cities. It is clean and safe with great transportation, definitely well worth visiting on a longer trip in Japan.

17/04/2024

JAPAN

HIROSHIMA - NUCLEAR CITY OF PEACE

After the success of the film Oppenheimer at the Oscars, the world's gaze fell once again on the city of Hiroshima, Japan. The first of two to be destroyed by the Americans in World War 2, the second being Nagasaki. Thousands died in the name of peace.

Everything today is about the mass destruction of the city and its people and what once was. Everywhere today there are monuments to Peace. One building remains though. It was originally known as the Genbaku dome, but is now aptly named the Atomic Bomb Dome, .

Today Hiroshima is a peaceful modern city with a fairly small population of 2 million inhabitants. It continues as a mainly industrial centre with automobiles, ship building and steel as its core industries. Both Mazda and Mitsubishi come from this area.

The castle and history of the region give a rare insight into this famous prefecture, but it's main tourist site is actually a shrine. Miyajima island is just offshore from Hiroshima and only a 30 minute boat ride away. Deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996 the Itsukushima shrine is now visited by more than 4 million people per year.

The beautiful red shrine is built in the water but is accessible by foot at low tide. Unfortunately the village hosting the shrine is a tourist trap but the food places are all reasonably priced for a tourist budget. There is a cost to see the shrine from a particular photographic vantage point, but only for those not willing to walk the esplanade where the view is free.

There are deer on Miyajima which live on the island. Many tourists feed them by hand even though it's not allowed but It seems to be a favourite pastime to feed the deer using food from local vendors.

There is also a local beach at Kenmin-No-Hama on nearby Kamikamaguri island, a pagoda at Toyokuni shrine, Sankei gardens with a wonderful waterfall, and Kagura theatrical dance shows to see for those wanting a change from the Peace memorials.

Talking about food, try the Okonomyaki sold in any restaurant. It is a city delicacy and comes in every style. Enhanced with noodles, cabbage, sauce, and in a dozen different variations, you'll be completely full after eating just one of these. It's a main meal or a snack, and only at a cost of a few yen.

Despite the draw of its historical past, Hiroshima has plenty to see. Its city motto is "Prosperity through Peace". It provides information about the terrible past, but is always a constant reminder to give thought to a continued peace. Hiroshima is a city re-built on its past but with so much more to offer for the future.

10/04/2024

JAPAN

HIMEJI - MEDIEVAL JAPAN

Himeji, in the Kansai region of central Japan, is known for one thing only, the original white Heron castle in the middle of the city. Originally built in 1333, it is one of the few still standing from Japan's feudal period in the 1600's. During cherry blossom season in late April early May it is an amazing sight in its natural colours. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage destination.

This popular city in the Hyogo prefecture of Japan is really known for little else. With a humid subtropical climate, and a population of around 300,000, Himeji is modern and clean. Unfortunately, most visitors are there for the day just to see the castle.

Himeji is on the shinkansen, or bullet train, line destination to Hiroshima, so it is an easy stop on the way. On arriving at the train station there is only one direction, a long promenade to the castle. There are several buses that go to the castle, but it's easier just to walk.

The grounds are clean and well kept, surrounded by a moat. A small bridge and entrance leads to an open driveway straight to the castle gates. There's a small fee, but still plenty of discounts for seniors and students. It is best to go early as it's a very popular destination with tourists.

Like all castles in Japan, Himeji is built of wooden timber and stone in nihon kenchiku style, classic Japanese architecture. With no furniture the building consists of several stories with steep stairs to cimb and 83 rooms to see. Each story built with small windows, to fire on the attacking masses when invaded.

On some weekends there are re-enactments at the castle with volunteers in traditional samurai costume and parades. Go early on those days because it fills up fast, and there are only so many they let in at any one time.

Himeji is the best preserved example of a medieval castle in Japan, and still stands as a monument to the men and women who built it seven hundred years ago. It is definitely worth stopping off for.

07/04/2024

JAPAN

KOBE AND KYOTO - OLD JAPAN

Kobe and Kyoto are almost suburbs of Osaka because they are so close. Each are individual cities in their own right, and Kyoto was even the capital centuries ago before Tokyo took that mantle.

These two wonderful old cities are true Japanese icons. Unfortunately, due to several earthquakes, they have been destroyed and rebuilt many times. Each only thirty minutes by train from Osaka, Kobe is now a giant port city and Kyoto is still the ancient samurai capital. Kyo-to actually means capital in Japanese.

Kyoto is home to the famous Geisha girls who still exist today in small numbers. Their time can be bought where they provide a living service to a customer. A living service designated as serving tea, dancing and story telling.

Kobe's main character is in its identity as a port. With multitudes of fishing boats, cruise ships and common cargo vessels, Kobe services the central economy part of Japan with ease.

Both cities have numerous statues as testament to the various eathquakes and the loss of life that was associated with them. In Kobe there is also a piece of the port that was destroyed, left untouched for tourists and others to see the damage it caused.

Close to central Kyoto is a museum commemorating Nintendo with its own Nintendo museum. Known for fish, Kyoto has numerous fish markets and restaurants serving the finest sushi.

It is also home to the famous "Fugu" or Puffer fish. Served in very fine slices it causes a numbing of the tongue when eaten due to the minor poison in the flesh. Expert chefs take out the posion sacs in the fish so it can be eaten, but every year one or two people are known to die from it.

Kobe is synonymous with Kobe beef. This pure bred cattle's meat is marbled in a way to provide the tenderest of flavours and textures when eaten. Every restaurant has fish, but there are even more restaurants serving specialised Kobe beef. Like butter Kobe beef melts in the mouth.

Kyoto is famous for three other attractions. One is its enormous railway station which is one of the largest in the world, the second is Kyoto tower from where there are views across the city, and third is Nijo Castle, its royal palace, and Toji temple.

A visit to Osaka isn't complete without a side trip to Kobe and Kyoto. They're both worth at least a day each or more, and only 30 minutes away.

29/03/2024

JAPAN
OSAKA - The Cultural Centre of Japan

If Tokyo is the capital of japan, then surely Osaka is the cultural centre. It is a major port, even though it looks like it's inland, and it is a modern industrial centre. However, Osaka is known for two things generally, one is Osaka castle and the other is its streetfood.

Smaller than Tokyo with less than 3 million people, Osaka has smaller neighborhoods within the inner city. One being Dotonbori, the entertainment district where you can take sushi classes or watch your favourite movie, or just stare at the thousands of lit billboards and signs everywhere.

If you're into gaming then Den-Den town in Nipponbashi is the place to go. Another is Electric town or the Royal Game Centre. If you're just out for fun then Universal studios should be your destination.

Osaka's most famous symbol is Osaka castle. Famous worldwide as the epitome of Japan, it's the symbol that you automatically recognise as Japanese when you see it, along with Ninjas, Samurai, Sushi and kimonos. With huge gardens and a moat the castle is a wonderful day out in central Osaka.

Similar to Tokyo, Osaka has a multitude of markets and streetfood that is unforgettable. One such dish is Takoyaki and another is Okonomiyaki, both delicious. Takoyaki consists of little doughy balls of goodness with fried octopus inside. Street vendors sell them everywhere.

Okonomiyaki is the most famous and unmissable when walking around Osaka. Once you've learned how to pronounce it you'll see it everywhere, sold for just a few dollars. Basically shredded cabbage in a pancake but with your own favourite additions. It's a meal in itself for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Osaka will always live in the shadow of Tokyo, but for history and culture it has become the equal of the capital. Whether you choose modern culture or ancient history, Osaka will serve you as the best example that Japan has to offer.

Tim Campbell-Travel Writer

06/07/2024

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