07/01/2024
1.Early History of Taktshang
Lopon Pema Jungney, popularly known as Guru Rinpoche, the Abbot of Uddiyana, visited and sanctified Bhutan as the second Tsari(Kailash) in the 8th century. It was a crucial time when evil spirits abounded, harming the interest of human beings. He assumed the terrifying form of Guru Dorji Drolie, on of his Eight Manifestations, and blessed the Taktshang cliff as the holiest of holiest sites, to protect against malignant spirits as well as to preserve the integrity of religious teachings. The entire cliff is today believed to be in the form of self-created Pelchen Dorji Zhonu(Shri Vajrakumara).
Revealing the Mandala of Pelchen Dorji Phurpa, Guru Rinpoche delivered sublime teachings to fortunate disciples including Khandro Yeshi Tshogyal, the principal dakini, and Langchen Pelgyi Senge at Taktshang Pelphug. In accordance with his Namthar Yid kyi Munsel, he is believed to have spent four months in a cave at Taktshang, taming and subjugating the malicious spirits(the Eight Categories of Evil Spirits) through the religious Cycle of Kagyad(the Eight Saddhana Teachings). He concealed profound treasures at Taktshang for the benefits of future.
Today, Taktshang is one of the most venerated pilgrim site of the Himalayan world. The monastic complex clings to the rock towering 800 metres above the valley(over 2600 feet). Taktshang is located 2950 metres(9678 feet) above the sea level. It takes about two hours of average walking speed to reach from Ramthangkha, the terminating point of the motorable road. Ramthangkha is twelve kilometres from Paro Town.
2.Patronage of Taktshang by Zhabdrung Rinpoche
The first sanctuary was built by Sonam Gyaltshen probably in 1508 at Taktshang Pelphug. He was a Nyingma trulku of Khatog and was invited by the Taktshang Lama Ngangyud from Tibet.
Residing at Ugyen Tsemo where his uncle and master Yeshi Bumpa, who lived in the 15th century, had built a Lhakhang, Sonam Gyaltshen gave oral transmissions of fourty six volumes of Nyingma Gyudbum to his disciples, this disseminating the lineage teaching of Nyingma.
Taktshang remained in the custody of Sonam Gyaltshen's descendants until 17th century. But in 1645 the whole site was offered to Zhabdrung Rinpoche when he visited Taktshang with his Nyingmapa master, Rigzin Nyingpo, the descendant of treasure discoverer Sangye Lingpa(1340-1396). The Zhabdrung immediately expressed his desire to build a new lhakhang, but the construction of the Rinpung Dzong in Paro kept him busy, and he could not realize his wish before he died in 1651.
3. Building of Lhakhang and Sacred Objects at Taktshang by Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye
The Zhabdrung Rinpoche instructed young Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye, who accompanied him when he visited Taktshang in 1645,to build a lhakhang of Guru Tshangyad(the Eight Manifestations of Guru Rinpoche) at Taktshang as the place was of great religious significance. After ascending the throne of the fourth Desi, Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye(reign : 1638-96) commanded the Paro Penlop, Dragpa Gyatsho, to build a new two-storeyed lhakhang. Accordingly, Dragpa Gyatsho arranged in 1692,corresponding to the Water-Monkey Year of the 12th Rabjung, for the construction of the lhakhang, thus fulfilling the Zhabdrung's wish.
Many lhakhangs were included : all sacred objects concerning Guru Tshangyad were said to have built by Niwari(Nepalese) artisans Pentsa Deva, Dharma Deva and Dharmashri. It is said that Phurpai Ethram that are enshrined in the Drubkhang and Guru Sungjonma are intrinsic art of Pentsa Deva.
The building was apparently restored in 1861-65 during the time of the thirty-fourth Je Khenpo Shedrup Yoezer(reign : 1861-65) and than again in 1982-83 and in 1992.
4.First Fire Disaster and Restoration
In 1951, a woman from Tsento village was lighting fires to burn her dry land in the valley below. The fire raged wildly and invaded the mountain slopes surrounding the Taktshang monastic complex. The fire damaged Shama Lhakhang, Zangdopelri Lhakhang, Ugyen Tsemo, and Dorloe Lhakhang, Namsey Lhakhang and Tshepamed Lhakhang at Pelphug. They were all built during the time of Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgaye. While two-storeyed Nepoi Lhakhang had been destroyed by the fire, kathrab(armour) of Sengye Samdrup, tsendar(tsen-spirit flag) and offering bowls were retrieved, and are still to be seen. However , no harm came to Guru Tshangyad Lhakhang, Sungjonmai Lhakhang, Drubkhang, Chorten Lhakhang, Kunra and the residence of caretaker.
Immediately after the incineration,as commanded by His Majesty the Second King Jigme Wangchuck, the restoration of the damaged lhakhang was carried out by the Taktshang Lama Khagor, people of Tsento and Drugyal Dzongpon Jangsap. However, restoration work of a lhakhang at Ugyen Tsemo was carried out, coordinated by Je Thrizur Tenzin Dhendup and his brother Phurpa Dorje in 1954 on the command of late Her Majesty Ashi Phuentsho Choden. The one storeyed Lhakhang was dismantled and reconstruction into a three-storeyed Lhakhang with nangtens(sacred images/objects).
5.Second Fire Disaster and Restoration
It was a national tragedy that the Taktshang Pelphug was severely damaged by fire on Sunday, April 19,1998,for the second time. The fire was reported to have started at about 7.00 pm on Sunday at two different parts of the monastic complex, the caretaker's residence and Sungjonmai Lhakhang. By the time people in the vicinity of the Taktshang, and villagers from the valley below arrived on the scene, the monastery was ablaze, people could not cross the ravine because of the intense heat from the fires which had spread to all the lhakhangs. The fire eventually subsided at about 8 O'clock the next morning.
Except four Lhakhang next to Dorloe Lhakhang (i. e. Namsey, Tshepamed, Senge Samdrup and Marmey Dagsum Lhakhangs), the rest had been completely razed to the ground. It was a bitter tragedy for Buddhists everywhere, and an immense loss to the world's religious and artistic heritage. People across the Buddhist world, who looked upon Taktshang with reverence, were severely shocked at the fire disaster.
The facts that emerged from the investigations left lingering doubts that the fire was no accident and that the caretaker had been killed. There are many who have regarded the fire as an event that created the opportunity to rededicate themselves to the Dharma by contributing to the renewal of the holiest site in the country. Indeed,many have contributed generously to the reconstruction effort and found spiritual nourishment in the process.
6.Retrieving of Guru Sungjonmai and other Sacred Relics
Greatly concerned at the fire disaster,His Majesty the King visited Taktshang on April 23. As a result of the salvage operations and recovery work commanded by His Majesty, many scared relics were successfully rescued.
While most of the images(nangtens) in the lhakhangs were either destroyed or damaged by the fire, many nangzungs(sacred relics placed inside the images) including the Drubkhang, the inner sanctum of the monastery, were found safe. Guru Sungjonma and it's nangzung had been retrieved as revealing new treasure by His Majesty the King himself from the debris. While some of the nangzungs were not damaged at all, many had been damaged in different degrees by the fire.
7.Occurrence of Numerous Mysterious Signs
As if consequential of the divine wishes against the plans to transport Guru Sungjonma from the original site to Thimphu for restoration, mysterious signs were revealed. Immediately after the officials responsible for restoration work made preparations the weather turned inclement. The storm that ensued swelled the Shelkarchu rendering it untraverseable. At the same time a thunder struck a dungshing(Silver Fir or Abiesdensa) at Ugyen Tsemo ripping its entire trunk into two halves. The Zhung Dratshang Tshanyid Lopon(Master of Metaphysics),officials from central and local Administration and the workers experienced numerous signs that inspired sense of respect and understanding for the divine call.
Subsequently, when the Sungjonma was moved to the Tshepamed Lhakhang for safety the efforts were twice obstructed by violent wind and dark smoke billowing from the rocky cave. It took sheer courage and physical strength for Drangpon Chhagdor and the team of officials to move the image to the lhakhang. The violent sign and the storm subsided eventually after the image was installed in the lhakhang and it's door locked by the Tshanyid Lopon.
Thereafter, a rainbow appeared in the direction of Shama Lhakhang , across the Tshepamed Lhakhang, and the sun shone brightly. The auspicious signs confirmed that Guru Sungjonma is the most sacred relic, imbued with great and immeasurable blessings which have not diminished despite the damage it sustained.
While making the nangzung restoration of Guru Sungjonma, many auspicious signs occurred, such as the sun being encircled by a rainbow, precipitation of flower rain, etc. Besides, while setting up the doors of Drubkhang and Sungjonma Lhakhang, a rainbow appeared across the Drubkhang from the Phurpai Latsho(Spirit-lake of Phurpa),located at the base of the cliff, and a Jishing(Semecarpifolia or Quercus) below the Tshepamed Lhakhang, as if the auspicious scarves with the five colours were piercing into the Drubkhang. This miraculous event was witnessed by all including the labourers present.
8.Visits of Spiritual Luminaries to Taktshang
Many spiritual luminaries came to meditate and bless Taktshang.At the end of his three month meditation at Taktshang, Milarepa(1040-1135) encountered four ascetics who enquired about his sustenance. He replied that he had lived without food for a very long time. In response to their incredulity, Milarepa sang the song he had composed after his meditation, of the exposition of the Tagchu(Ten Signs) of yogic attainment.
The Indian Mahasiddha Phadampa Sangye(died 1117) visited Bhutan in the 12th Rabjung and blessed various places,he mediated for long at Taktshang.He left footprints for posterity, and founded a drubchu.
Similarly , around same period, Machig Labdron( 1055-1145),the disciple of Phadampa Sangye, visited Taktshang and meditated at Machig Phug, where she left footprints and founded a drubchu which can still be seen.
Phajo Drugom Zhigpo(1184-1251) mediated at Taktshang for a month. In a vision he was instructed by Guru Rinpoche to travel through the country, mediating at twelve places, namely, the four dzongs, the four rocks, and the four caves. Taktshang is one of the caves prophesied by Guru Rinpoche.
In the 15th century Thangtong Gyalpo(1385-1464) mediated at Taktshang and discovered the treasure of manngag Domchuma(treasure text) from the cave at Senge Phug.Later ,in the 16th century Terton Lethro Lingpa ,one of the treasure revealers and a contemporary of Drukpa Kuenleg, meditated at Taktshang and discovered the treasures of Kunzang Thugtig and Kagyad Yangsang Lamed(treasure texts).
Many other renowned spiritual personalities visited and blessed Taktshang in subsequently periods of time, they cannot all be elaborated here because of the limited scope of this publication.
Source: Guide to Taktshang
Department of Culture
Ministry of Home & Cultural Affairs
# # # # #