27/08/2023
Taktshang "Tiger's Nest" Monastery (Dzongkha: སྤ་རོ་སྟག་ཚང་།)
The Taktsang Palphug, or "Tiger's Nest" monastery, is the most iconic and eye-catching of Bhutan's architectural treasures. In a land famous for cliffside aeries and secluded, wind-swept lhakhangs, the Taktsang Palphug represents the ultimate in seclusion, isolation, and security, perched atop a sheer drop of many hundreds of meters. As noted by Tsering, "It seems almost unbelieveable that it was possible to build on such a dangerous spot" (Tsering, p. 114). The monastery is simultaneously one of Bhutan's oldest and newest major monuments: old, as its history began with the arrival of Guru Rinpoche here in the 8th century; new, as the complex was destroyed by fire in 1998 and subsequently restored.
Early history of the Taktsang Ney:
The early history of Taktsang is linked to the travels of Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, an 8th-century Buddhist master from Tibet. According to Phende Legshed Wangchuk, the Guru journeyed here from Singgye Dzong (in northern Lhuentse) to Paro on the back of a pregnant, flaming tigress (a manifestation of Tashi Kheudron, his consort), giving rise to the name Taktsang. He disguised himself as the wrathful entity Dorje Drolö, his eighth and final manifestation, and took refuge in a cliffside hollow. This cave—the Taktsang Pelphug—is the most sacred spot (ney) within Taktsang and serves as the focal point for organizing the temple's numerous lhakhangs. There, the master meditated and—working together with his consort—subdued numerous demons and harmful entities, binding them by oath to serve henceforth as dharma protectors.
Subduing or co-opting demons has a long and storied history in Bhutan and is a staple of legends associated with holy places. For example, the Guru's exploits are similar to the work of the "Divine Madman" Drukpa Kunley (1455-1529), who subdued a demon tormenting the Punakha valley, containing it beneath a chorten at the Chime Lhakhang. It also echoes the tales associated with the founding of the Dechenphug Lhakhang in Thimphu, where the grandson of Phajo Drugom Shigpo (1184-1251) subverted a malicious entity and transformed it into a faithful protector of the valley. A similar legend is told of Jangtsa Dumtseg in Paro, where Thangtong Gyalpo (1385-1464), the "King of the Empty Plain," bottled up a demon beneath the Dumtseg chorten. Even the Guru himself, a master demon hunter, convinced the malignant entity Myongkhapa to abandon evil and serve the dharma by acting as a protective genius loci (i.e., a neypo) of the Gomphu Kora, in eastern Bhutan.
After the Guru purified the cave—following four long years of meditations—he converted it into a beyul, a kind of sacred refuge visible only to the most accomplished Buddhist adepts. In keeping with the Guru's work as a gatherer of treasures (terma), he also hid various Buddhist relics, wisdom, and knowledge within it for the benefit of future generations. Thinley notes that in the Treasury Key (mdzod kyi lde mig) of the King's Chronicle (rgyal po thang yig), a 19th-century commentary to the Guhyagarbha Ta**ra, it is recorded that "At Paro Taktsang Senphug, many true teachings for attaining actual and complete enlightenment are hidden" (Thinley, p. 121).
Over the next 800 years, a veritable "who's who" of Bhutan's leading luminaries paid their respects. In the 10th or 11th century, the Buddhist siddha Jetsun Milarepa (1028/40-1111/23), a murderer before becoming an ardent Buddhist, visited the cave and meditated there for three months. Later in the same era Gyalwa Lhanangpa (1164-1224), the founder of Lhapa Kagyu, journeyed here, along with Phajo Drugom Zhigpo (1180-1252), the Drukpa Kagyu founder. Several hundred years later, the Tibetan polymath, Thangtong Gyalpo, mentioned earlier in this article, traveled to Taktsang and discovered a ten-yard long scroll secreted within the cave, handed to him by five dakinis. However, he does not appear to have erected any of his famous iron-link suspension bridges at this most challenging of sites.
Most famously, the cave caught the attention of the Zhabdrung Rinpoche (1594-1651), the future unifier of Bhutan. According to one legend (as noted on the Paro government's website), in the late 1630s, while staying at the nearby Rinpung (Paro) Dzong, the Zhabdrung dreamed of a black-clad man granting him custody of the Taktsang Ney. The following morning, he warned his retainers that he expected a visitor, who was to be admitted without delay. Soon enough, Singye Samdrup, the guardian deity of Taktsang, arrived at the dzong dressed in the garb of a poor laborer, carrying a sack of onions. The perplexed officials guided him to the Zhabdrung's office. There, he announced that he had come to deliver over the Taktsang. Recognizing the deity for who he was, the Zhabdrung gave him a white scarf and asked him to carry it to the top of the Taktsang cliff-face and declare that the region was now under the sovereignty of the Zhabdrung. When the deity lived up to his word, the Zhabdrung vowed to build a temple called Guru Tsengye Lhakhang (temple of the eight forms of Guru Rinpoche) in his homage. However, the Zhabdrung died before he could fulfill his vow. It was left to Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye (1638–1696), the 4th Druk Desi, and the Zhabdrung's spiritual successor to complete his master's vision.
Later history from 1692 onward:
The Druk Desi ordered the construction of a grand monastery at Taktsang to fulfill the Zhabdrung's wishes. According to John A. Ardussi, at the time of the Tenzin Rabgye's intervention, from which the present form of the temple derives, the site was entirely devoid of architecture, apart from some small hermitages higher up the cliff-face. Ardussi writes, "There is no mention of other buildings in the vicinity, and we must assume that any earlier hermitages on the immediate site had long since decayed" (p. 40). However, it is certain that there were already several flourishing institutions in the local area, well away from the mountainside. For instance, Karma Phuntsho writes that the Ogyen Tsemo sanctuary was established by Sonam Gyaltshen on a nearby hilltop as early as 1508, and the occupants of the hermitage controlled access to the Taktsang until the Zhabdrung's arrival.
Before construction commenced, the aging Tenzin Rabgye ascended to the mouth of the Taktsang Pelphug. The Druk Desi blessed the cave and performed a tshechu ceremony with a crowd of onlookers watching from below. Various miracles manifested themselves, including the appearance of a triple rainbow, a rain of flowers, and "countless other auspicious signs, never before seen or heard of, occurred at that time" (Ardussi, p. 46).
The Druk Desi enlisted Lopon Dragpa Gyatsho, his chief architect, to oversee construction. But, according to legend, each time Lopon laid a few foundation courses during the daytime, demons dismantled the work when darkness fell. Only by cutting a lock of his hair and mixing it with the mortar was Lopon able to prevent the monsters from returning. A similar story is told of the construction of the Samye monastery in Tibet, the first Buddhist monastery in the region, where the Guru Rinpoche scared off a malignant entity hampering the work.
Another story involving hair, possibly conflated with the above tale, is a myth that several minor goddesses offered long tresses of their own hair to serve as building materials when mortar supplies grew low.
The various temples established by Tenzin Rabgye survived until the mid-20th century when a fire lit in a nearby meadow raged out of control for four days. The conflagration spread high enough that it engulfed more than half the structures at Taksang. Fortunately, the main guardian image, depicting Sengge Samdrub, was spared. By 1957 the damage was fully repaired.
A second and more severe fire broke out in April 1998, originating with the Guru Tsengye Lhakhang, not far from the caretaker's house. According to the New York Times, an overturned butter lamp may have been responsible (later speculation focused on an electrical short-circuit), but the precise cause was never determined. Only a sole caretaker was present at the time, who did not survive. The intense fire could not be extinguished and raged for at least three days, although numerous local residents made valiant attempts to haul buckets of water up the mountainside. Many important relics, including sacred scrolls and thangka paintings, were lost in the inferno.
Architecture and layout:
The Taktsang is an excellent example of the Draphu type of architecture, characterized by secluded hermitages built directly against sheer rock. A similar design at a much smaller scale is the Drakarpo Kora, located just eighteen kilometers to the southeast. In both instances, the layout of the various lhakhangs is constrained by the narrow footprint of the cliffside ledges.
As noted by the architect Laura Blake in her book Bhutan's Buddhist Architecture, the heart of the Taktsang comprises seven or eight individual buildings arranged in a comma shape, with the tail of the comma pointed toward higher elevations. Near the base of the temple (corresponding to the head of the comma) is the Langchen Pelgye Tsengay Lhakhang, which is built directly against the rock face. Opposite it is the largest structure, a three-level building housing a dubkhang (meditation retreat) on the ground floor, the Guru Sungjem Lhakhang in the middle level, and the Guru Tsengey Lhakhang on the upper floor. This building is topped with a two-tiered jabzhi-style roof and a golden sertog finial to indicate its sacred nature.
In the middle of the complex, past a curved flight of stairs hewn from the rock, is the Drolo Lhakhang. Higher still—and directly adjacent—is a hall housing butter lamps. Finally, at the apex of the site are two connected buildings called the Namsey and Tshepamed Lhakhang. The former building is a narrow two-level, tapered structure that sits dizzyingly at the extreme edge of the precipice. The Tshepamed Lhakhang stands more snuggly to its rear.
Distance
The climb to the monastery takes about 3 hours at a comfortable pace. Regular trekkers and gym enthusiasts can complete it in about 2 hours. The total walking distance is about 4 km one way with 700m in elevation gained. For those who are unable to climb, you can opt to rent a horse to ride up to the midway where a cafeteria is located. However, descending the mountain has to be done on foot and renting of a horse is not available. The cafeteria is the midpoint of the hike (from the starting point, it’s about 2km of steep climb), there is where you will be able to catch some rest, refresh yourself, fill up your tummy before continuing the hike. From the cafeteria, it takes approximately another 45 minutes to 1 hour to reach the Tiger’s Nest monastery. You will then proceed another 2 km on a gentler slope to reach the second viewpoint, after which there will be concrete descending steps and you will be passing by a waterfall over a bridge, followed by the final ascending of 120 steps bringing one to the main entrance of Tiger’s Nest.
Along the way, you will walk past many colourful prayer flags that Bhutanese had strung up for the wind to bring compassion and blessings to all sentient beings. These colourful prayer flags called Lung Dhar, surface in five colors representing the five elements of nature.
Tips for Visiting Tiger’s Nest:
- Start early if you want to avoid the crowd and the heat.
- Wear a pair of good walking shoes to protect your ankles, bring a hat and sunscreen.
- You can also rent a walking stick at the base of Tiger’s Nest if required.
- Stay hydrated and take your time. The ascent gains an elevation of 700 m, although it is below an altitude of 3000m, it is wise to pace yourself to avoid overexertion and result in altitude sickness.
- Regulate your breathing to avoid panting. You will expend more energy if you pant.
- Bring a warm jacket as your body cools down pretty fast when you are visiting the temple.
- Bring some snacks to chew on once you reach the peak to restore your energy and keep warm for the return journey.
You are required to keep all your electronic and photography equipment with the sentry before entering the complex. Photography is prohibited inside the temple as with all other temples and monasteries in Bhutan. You are required to remove your shoes and headgears upon entering Tiger’s Nest monasteries.
Entrance Fee:
After the revision of visa policy of Bhutan in July 2022, it was decided that an entrance fee of Nu. 2,000 however revised to Nu. 1000 per person will be levied for all visitors to Taktsang September 23, 2022. Children below the ages of 12 will be charged only 50% of the fees and children ages 5 and below will be exempted from the payment of fees.
Source:
Ardussi, John A. (1999). "Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye and the Founding of Taktsang Lhakhang". Journal of Bhutan Studies. Thimphu: Centre for Bhutan Studies. 1 (1): 28.
Wangchuk, Phende Legshed. (2009). "The History of Taktshang Monastery". The Soul and Substance of Bhutan's Cultural Heritage: Proceedings of the Fifth Colloquium. Paro: National Museum of Bhutan. Volume 1, p. 183-206.
