04/07/2024
After going “old school” and picking up a couple of travel books on Greece, we decided that the oracle of Delphi had to be on our itinerary. These ruins, considered by ancient Greeks to be the center of the world and now a UNESCO World Heritage site, are where Apollo, the Olympian god of light, knowledge, and harmony, delivered prophecies to Mediterranean pilgrims. The breathtaking views of the lush green valley that stretch for miles are worth the visit alone.
Surprisingly, the charming town of Arachova, where we stayed for a night before heading to the islands, was an unexpected delight. Nestled on the slopes of Mount Parnassus with equally stunning views, cobblestone streets, unique shops, and tastefully designed local eateries, it felt like a piece of paradise. We stayed at the lovely Paeonia Inn (https://paeonia.gr/en/), just off the main street, which offered considerable attention to detail and an amazing breakfast. We could have stayed here a week. This bustling ski town in the winter turns into a quiet, off-the-beaten-path destination for adventurous travelers in the summer.
This was a much-needed transition from the frenzied city of Athens, where we unfortunately fell victim to a metro scam targeting tourists. Having never been to Greece before, we had read about the friendly and hospitable nature of the Greeks, which let our guard down a bit too much.
It's important to remember that in any big urban center, thieves are lurking nearby. It's best to keep to yourself (don't engage in conversation, tell anyone where you're going, or pull money from your wallet to donate to a beggar). Someone is always watching and listening. Keep all bags gripped tightly and in full sight, and try to blend in and not draw attention to yourself.
With that unfortunate experience behind us, we enjoyed the lively outdoor cafes that are more efficiently run than anywhere else I've seen in the world. True hospitality thrives in Greek culture, with complimentary snacks with every drink and a complimentary appetizer or dessert with every meal. The food was undeniably the best in the Plaka area, truly the heart of the city. Surrounded by shops, markets, live music, and within walking distance to the Parthenon, we spent hours in this area, with one highlight being drinks on a rooftop terrace at night with the Acropolis lit up.
Greece has thousands of islands, over 200 of which are inhabited. If you want to travel to Greece but are unsure which islands to visit, you can follow the traditional tourist route to the Cyclades islands (Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Mykonos, etc.), but they are far busier and more expensive. For a more relaxed environment with lush green landscapes, olive trees, vineyards, and never-ending beaches, choose the Ionian Islands.
We took the Levante ferry, which felt luxurious compared to most ferries, from the mainland (Kyllini) to Kefalonia (1.5 hours), basing our stay in Argostoli. You'll need a car to get around, but be warned: the roads are narrow, often steep, with several sharp switchback turns. And watch for wild goats on the road! Argostoli is a great place to "home base," being in the middle of the island and along the coastline. With an abundance of restaurants and shops and easy walkability, it feels like a beach town rather than a city. A short drive or taxi ride to the edge of town is Makris Gialos beach, with the fully serviced Costa Costa beach club right beside it, as well as Gentilini Winery down the road.
Boat tours from Argostoli port around the island or to nearby small islands like Ithaca or Zakynthos are also available. When driving around the island, don't miss Assos and Fiskardo to stroll around these beautifully scenic towns, have lunch, or rent a boat. Popular beaches, widely photographed, include Antisamos and Myrtos. The towering cliffs and sparkling Mediterranean blue waters are straight out of a tropical paradise postcard. But pack your water shoes, as beaches are generally rocky! Another great stop is the impressive Drogarati Cave, discovered 300 years ago after an earthquake and only 6 Euros to visit. Sarris Winery has a lovely view of the ocean and excellent service, with good wine as a bonus!
After five nights on Kefalonia, we took a ferry from Fiskardo to Vasiliki on Lefkada island (1 hour). The shimmering clarity of the Ionian Sea reflects the deepest shades of blue, from turquoise to teal, that I have ever seen. We home-based right in Vasiliki, a popular spot for windsurfers and Hobie Cats in the bay. On the other side of the bay, it’s more relaxed, with great shopping and restaurants along the water and just off the main street. If you want to save on driving for a day or two, this is a great place to hang out at the beach, shop, and enjoy the liveliness of this quaint town.
Half an hour down the road by car is Nydri, another good option if you want more nightlife and beach clubs. We visited a lovely olive oil farm, Lefkaditiki Winery, and did a kayaking tour from Mikros Gialos beach to the blue caves, with lunch on a secluded beach. A full-day boat tour from Nydri to explore the surrounding islands, including Skorpios (aka the Onassis island), Meganisi, Kastos, and Kalamos, was another trip highlight. After five nights on Lefkada, we headed back to Athens, the only Ionian island connected to the mainland by a bridge, though with a hefty toll.
We spent a couple of days in Artemida, a suburb of Athens close to the airport, but full of beach bars and sunbeds to close off the final days of our vacation. Greece may be best known for its history, cuisine, and beaches, but for me, the magic lies in the endless places you can explore, the proud way of life people seemingly have, and the abundance of cats that reside in every inhabited locale.
“Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer.”
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