11/08/2020
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In Sicilyโs northwest corner, a peninsula thrusts out into the sea. At its tip is the town of San Vito Lo Capo, home, many would say, to the islandโs most idyllic beach. The eastern side of the peninsula extends southwards down to Castellammare del Golfo, also home to a long expanse of sand. In between these two beaches, is one of Sicilyโs most dramatic, most striking and most varied stretches of coastline.
The coast road from Castellammare Scopello, a fascinating little village centred around a fortified baglio (farmstead). Once providing shelter for the local landownerโs animals and workers, this wonderfully evocative 18th century construction now plays hosts to a couple of restaurants, a cafรฉ and a shop, all of which spill out into the cobbled courtyard in the summer months.
Scattered round the baglio are a few houses and restaurants, one of which, Le Terrazze, offers enchanting views out to sea.
The tonnara and its surroundings have featured in several films in recent years, including Oceanโs Twelve (with Brad Pitt and George Clooney) and Inspector Montalbano...
Scopelloโs coastline is rocky, craggy and dramatic. Steep cliffs and sea stacks have been sculpted over millennia by the sea and the wind, prickly pear bushes cling perilously to precipitous inclines, plane, pine and eucalyptus trees cluster together, and a gentle, almost Arcadian atmosphere hangs in the air.
In a small bay amongst all this beauty sits the tonnara, a tuna fishery. Dating back to the 13th century (though remodelled over the years), and built in creamy yellow sand stone, the tonnara is an impressive sight indeed. Sun worshippers lie amongst the antique anchors on the landing area, where tuna-heavy boats were once hauled ashore, while swimmers and snorkellers delight in the clean, limpid waters and abundant subaquatic treasures. The main buildings, where the tuna was processed, canned and made ready for distribution, now host a small museum and a bed and breakfast.
The harmonious perfection of the tonnara and its surroundings has piqued the imagination of location managers, who have featured it in several films and TV programmes in recent years, including Oceanโs Twelve (with Brad Pitt and George Clooney) and Inspector Montalbano.
There is more beauty still to come in this enchanted corner of Sicily and we heartily recommend you continue your journey a few kilometres further north to where the nature reserve of Lo Zingaro begins.