19/09/2020
My South East Cornwall coastal trek last week - starting in St John (near Torpoint) to Millbrook, Cremyl, Mount Edgecumbe, Kingsand, Cawsand, Penlee Point, Rame Head, Whitsand Bay and Freathy, Portwrinkle, Downderry, Seaton, Millandreath, Fowey, Talland Bay, Polperro, Lantivet Bay and Lansallos, Pencarrow Head, Lantic Bay, Polruan, Fowey, Polridmouth, Gribbin Head, Polkerris and finally to Par. 6.5 days and 76 miles. According to The South West Way website, Cremyl to Par is only 36 miles, so you can see how many diversions I took and how many cliffs I climbed up and down to explore hidden coves etc - it was magical and the weather was pretty good most of the time.
I started in St John (which added about 8 miles) because my Cornish father (borne 1916) lived in Torpoint as a young man and when he met my Mum, she had been sent to Millbrook from Surrey to be a "Land Girl" on a farm, for what was then known as "The War Effort". Dad used to walk from Torpoint to Millbrook to 'court' her and then they'd go for a walk together. His days must have involved at least 15 miles of walking - no wonder my cousin calls me "Son of Hawkeye" (as he was fondly known).
My walk, totally immersed in nature, gave me a valuable opportunity to reflect on my roots and my current life in a way not usually afforded to us, given the current pandemic. It's the first summer I have not had to work (hard) for 33 years! I quietly reflected on the importance of the natural world in my life and came to see even more clearly exactly why I do what I do. For me, a good understanding of the basic principals of how nature operates enables me to make better sense of the world - and in any case, I believe that gratitude for all the beauty in the universe is one of our greatest gifts. This was the last stretch of the whole 420 miles of Cornish coastline that I had not walked properly and it strangely made sense, for it encompassed many places that Dad and Mum used to take my sister Jan and I to when we were little, back in the 50's. Here, in Whitsand Bay, Mum and Dad introduced our newfound German friends Christiane, Elke and Isolde to the delights of the Cornish coast. They have remained firm friends ever since - over some 65 years!
Over the course of the 7 days, I met some incredible people and enjoyed much unexpected comradery. I chatted extensively to several people doing the whole 650 mile South West Way and I met several incredibly kind local folk who gave me sustenance when I was thirsty or hungry. As I carried all that I needed on my back (30 lbs), I sometimes did not have enough to sustain me. My good friend Andy drove up to my half way point to bring my hiking sandals and a lighter back pack. By this time I had nearly lost a toe nail to uncomfortable boots - you’d think I should have known better!
So thankfully, the last few days were easier, with much less weight to carry and comfy footwear at last. I spent the first 3 nights on the ground in a sleeping bag within a bivvy bag, but finally succumbed to creature comforts and enjoyed a proper bed for the next 3 nights - it was luxury! Regularly dropping down to remote and largely unvisited coves, I enjoyed quite a few wonderful wild swims and the photo album should reflect my magical journey and give you a personal insight into the magnificence that is Cornwall. Sorry if you have seen this before, but I loose track of which of my friends also follow the business page, where I first posted this.
Stay safe everyone!
My coastal walk last week
