30/06/2024
With tourism expected to hit a record high in the Faroe Islands this year, visitors should explore the archipelago's quieter roads and new sub-sea tunnels.
Just minutes from the village of Sørvágur on the island of Vágar in the Faroe Islands, the road edged toward a steep drop above the ocean. A distinctive sign appeared, featuring a bright-yellow flower on a green background, but no numbers or words. The road wound upwards, passing sod-roofed houses and fields of sheep, before disappearing into a dark mountain tunnel.
Road signs typically warn of speed limits, hazards, or the presence of livestock or wildlife. It took a moment to understand the meaning of this sign. The yellow flower depicted is a marsh marigold, the national flower of the Faroe Islands. With some of Europe's strongest winds, no trees grow on the archipelago, so this glossy buttercup, called sóljuleiðir in Faroese, often colors the landscape.
That day, the flower was also a signal. The signs featuring it invited drivers to leave the main highways and explore the lesser-traveled and most beautiful roads in the Faroe Islands. These "Buttercup Routes" are not about quick or timely travel. Instead, they offer a leisurely drive through stunning scenery, reminiscent of a journey through the dramatic landscapes of Middle-earth.
A map created by Landsverk, the Faroe Islands' Ministry of Transport, shows 13 of these routes across the 18 islands, each resembling a yellow brick road of opportunity. As tourism increases, with around 100,000 visitors annually—double the local population—the aim is to reduce traffic congestion and bring travelers closer to the serene beauty of the North Atlantic.
The first Buttercup Route, Gásadalsleið, led through a dark mountain tunnel to Múlafossur waterfall, which cascades into the sea near the village of Gásadalur. From a cliff overlooking the falls, a short walk from the parking area, the view extended to the channel leading to Mykines, the westernmost island. The scene, shrouded in fog, was breathtaking.
Gásadalsleið is a short drive—only about 15 minutes—but it captures the essence of the Faroe Islands: sea vistas, rugged mountain peaks, delicate waterfalls, and roads clinging to cliffsides. The 13 routes, varying in length from 3.8km to 19.5km, reveal ocean-drop waterfalls, hanging lakes, and quiet valleys where sheep outnumber people.
The Faroe Islands have recently enhanced the road trip experience with the introduction of the Buttercup Routes and new infrastructure. In December 2023, a 10.8km sub-sea tunnel opened, connecting Streymoy and Sandoy, previously separated by a 30-minute ferry ride. This tunnel, named Sandoyartunnilin, is the fourth sub-sea tunnel in the Faroe Islands. It improves access to the Buttercup Routes and enhances the overall road trip experience.
At over 150m below the seabed, Sandoyartunnilin features a unique art installation in red, blue, and white neon along its walls. Created by Faroese artist Edward Fuglø, the illuminated pictographs depict Catholic knights, shepherds, fishermen, seals, cattle, and birds. An ethereal soundtrack by Faroese composer Sunleif Rasmussen can be heard by tuning the car radio to 100 FM.
According to the tunnel's CEO, Teitur Samuelsen, the goal is to celebrate Faroese folklore and transform the journey into a unique experience for visitors. "The first known painter in the Faroe Islands, Díðrikur á Skarvanesi, came from Sandoy in the 19th Century, and we wanted to connect his story to the tunnel," he explained. The artwork and accompanying music evoke a sense of ceremony and national memory, making the journey through the tunnel more than just a drive under the Atlantic Ocean.