![Often overlooked, Portugal’s former forgotten capital Coimbra is now known as the university city of Portugal, but for o...](https://img5.travelagents10.com/464/697/941294324646976.jpg)
17/01/2025
Often overlooked, Portugal’s former forgotten capital Coimbra is now known as the university city of Portugal, but for over 100 years it was the medieval capital of the country. A two-hour train from Lisbon, this city is a laid-back higgledy-piggledy place, where you can delve into the country’s abundant history with plenty of breathing space. Perched on a hill overlooking the river Mondego, Coimbra is surrounded by breathtakingly beautiful countryside. The city itself is a mixture of ancient and new, rural, and urban.
Not every city calls for a university visit, but like Oxford and Cambridge in the UK, Coimbra’s institution has deep historical roots. Settling here in 1537, it was built into the palace complex, hence the elegant ivory-coloured bell tower, magnificent courtyard and carefully restored, sculpture-lined Via Latina portico. Most eye-popping, though, is its lavish baroque library, Biblioteca Joanina – its frescoed ceilings, dusty leather tomes and gilded flourishes inspired the Harry Potter movie designers. UNESCO has made it a World Heritage site.
Pull up a pew for drinks at Cafe Santa Cruz, built into the cavernous former Church of São João, which dates to 1530. Dappled light streams in through the intricate stained glass above the entrance, while you sit on medieval-style wooden chairs under impressive stone arches and make your order. Don’t miss the obligatory pasteis de nata (a tart that’s considered a national dish), plus toasted sandwiches, and the house special, crúzios – sugared almond cakes created by nuns.
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