04/06/2023
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Tabakoshi...A Place to find Oneself
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#ঋতুপর্ণারায়ভট্টাচার্য
It was the mid of February this year. It was the month of Love. And, I was thinking where to go with my loved one. I have this habit of browsing through the Maps of World whenever I get a little me time, and, that’s how this time, I found a very remote and unspoilt hilly place, tucked cosily in the lap of green Himalayas, Tabakoshi! After a little research of my own, I understood that Tabakoshi is actually a very small village near Mirik town with very few inhabitants. The village falls under the district of Kalimpong, West Bengal, and, is only forty minutes drive from Mirik town. There is also another shortcut route to reach this beautiful little Himalayan hamlet within just twenty minutes, but unfortunately, the road was not in good condition when we visited it. For lodging, there are a number of private Homestays in Tabakoshi which have quickly developed in the last few years to especially cater to the city living travellers who prefer a peaceful, quiet and exclusive travel experience while vacationing. So all in all, it totally suited our mood board at that time and we booked one beautiful Homestay named The Riverside Dwelling in Tabakoshi a few days before the journey, and , the restless countdown to our coveted private trip began!
On the early morning of 14th of Feb, 2023, we board a Mirik bound government run bus from the Siliguri Bus Terminus and it took around three hours to reach the town. One can also go by private or hired car or even by a shared taxi, and that is advisable also, as a shared taxi or privately hired car would complete this journey within only one and half hours at maximum, and, which we actually opted for while returning back to Siliguri next day, but if you frankly ask me, a traveller at heart should take a bus ride in hills at least once in his life, as it offers a completely new spin to one's overall travel experience and actually allow one to mix with the local people organically. Also, as there are very few buses run through the hilly routes on daily basis here, the driver and conductor of the bus know almost all the regular passengers catching the bus by name and they also develop a very cordial, helpful and family kind of bonding with each other over time, and, getting a chance to witness such soulful love and care between total strangers, actually is so heavenly and magical that no words can express. The bus stops at a restaurant during its journey too for the breakfast break, which was around 10 am for our first morning bus, and, we all had a hearty breakfast before heading finally to our destination.
We reached Mirik at about 11 am. The bus stops at two places in Mirik, one stop is before the Mirik Lake gate, and another is at Mirik Bus Stand near the Mirik Monastery. To go to Tabakoshi, we contacted our Homestay owner already and it was agreed that he would send a car for us to drive there. Hence, a smiling happy face of a local young boy welcomed us at the Stand the minute we got down, and then, we all three start for Tabakoshi immediately.
We, who love to travel to the mountains quite often, are aware of the different demographic beauty the mighty Himalayas can offer with its varied routes. Every place in the mountains has a very personalised unique natural character and beauty of its own, and, Mirik is no exception. The town of Mirik may offer you only the Lake, market and Monastery within its walking range, but the actual natural beauty of the place can be experienced only if you choose the nearly undiscovered tiny villages tucked in the deep pockets of it. In our serene journey of forty long minutes, we passed through the beautiful tea estates Mirik proudly owns, like, the majestic Gopaldhara Tea Estate where the local people would offer you the garden's gloriously flavoured freshly plucked tea to taste or buy, Okyati Tea Estate, a very exclusive and organic tea garden of this region, and, the hugely sprawling gardens of the Thurbo Tea Estate covering most of this hilly parts of Mirik. The route we opted for had very few traffic, and we actually enjoyed a very private and cosy journey with clear blue sky up above and lush green tea gardens spreading over the endless ripples of mountain ridges on both sides. It was just so majestic and overwhelming and also a magically scenic experience of a lifetime, that one can only feel when one comes here. No words could ever express the feeling correctly.
After we reached The River Dwelling homestay, we surprisingly discovered that we were the only guests at the resort that day! It was just sheer luck, and, we naturally were overjoyed. The owner of the Homestay was away at Darjeeling for some work where they are opening a new property soon, and hence, only his dear old mother and his naughty little son warmly welcomed us in this property.
A number of Homestays have grown in this little hilly village lately, and some of them are quite popular by now as well, but, we chose River Dwelling particularly because of the two main reasons. Firstly, the location of the homestay, which was very reclusive and private, and secondly, the very fact, that a water stream joining the only river of this village, that is the beautiful Rang Bhang river, was flowing playfully just by the cottage we booked here. The Homestay was actually very cosily tucked into the extreme edge of the hillside and the backside of it went down steeply with very narrow winding walking stairs to the hearty river flowing with gusto below. Their dining and resting place was situated near this side also, a cottage style sitting arrangement with open sides all around, and hence, one can easily sit and enjoy the beautiful vastness of green mountains before them while having the homely cooked lunch of steaming hot fresh vegetables and juicy local chickens, or, just chatting and let the quietness and silence of this part of the world sweeps him away.
The Homestay had about ten rooms in well furnished natural wooden structure and the service was really quick. The people attending guests here are also very cooperative and helpful at all times. All meals, that is the lunch dinner and breakfast, were included with room tariff here, but, you can also order other items on prior notice basis if you please. We had a roasted chicken for evening snacks that day, and as always, it was just totally mouth watering! We had a long wooden table with benches before our room, and in the evening, we sat there cosily and enjoyed our blissful food with the beautiful constant lilting sound of the waterbody flowing just under. The experience was surreal. The experience was simply magical.
The next morning, we walked around the place a little. There was big furry white cat walking around the Homestay like a strict guardian of this place and one big brown coloured scary looking dog as well. Some local people were doing some repairs on backside of the place. There were many colourful flower bushes and beautiful hilly orchids grown here and there. Just over the boundary of the place in its right side, a small plainly built one room house was located, the only church of the place, very modest, very plain, yet so mesmerising. One should indeed come here to seek truth in simplicity, and if you ask me, that is actually the soul essence of Tabakoshi, nothing more, nothing less.
On our return, we had the same car we had yesterday, but with a new man on steering. The boy of yesterday went to Darjeeling for some work today. A very talkative and happy person this new driver of ours was and laughed at almost anything we were saying. So with a happy journey of mere forty minutes, we safely reached Mirik at about 12 noon, and, after walking around the tall and dense pine forest by the Mirik Lake for about an hour or so, we had our hearty lunch at a nearby hotel, and then, board on a shared taxi to head back home before it was dark.
In my decades of travelling years, now with time, I crave for soul enriching lifetime experiences only. What excites me now is not the usual touristy attractions anymore, but, the local people of the particular place and their life, culture and the unique way of their day to day living. Am I getting some new and life altering experience from giving my valuable time and hard earned money while travelling? Am I being useful to others in any organic way by my travel choices? Am I coming back with a travel experience that can give me some positive change in the way I would look at life after my trip? These are the questions bother me most while I feel like putting on my travel shoes these days, and in case of Tabakoshi, I can finally say, yeah, I really made it, with all my questions ticked at the right places!
For more information, kindly contact Royal Brothers Tours & Travels 🙏