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16/02/2024

22/01/2024

Sadhus
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03/01/2024

19/12/2023

View towards Makalu (8,481m)
The Great Himalayas
📸 : maxrivephotography

08/12/2023

Full moon with mighty Mt. Khanchendzonga
Pic: Niranjan Roy

21/11/2023

In 1989, a legendary moment was captured as Doug Coombs descended the slopes of Jackson Hole, Wyoming. A pioneer in adventure skiing, Doug Coombs continues to be a revered figure in the skiing community, leaving an indelible mark on the sport.

12/11/2023

Lung Tung sikkim.
Mt kanchanjangha at mid night
to all.. love from mountain

10/11/2023

Hard to describe the size and scale of Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica. After 10,000ft of climbing, put on a smile and made the most of the teeth-chattering Antarctic chunder. As they say, the worst days of skiing are better than the best days at work.

21/10/2023

19/10/2023

10/09/2023

"Climbing is not a battle with the elements, nor against the law of gravity. It’s a battle against oneself."- Walter Bonatti

04/09/2023

30/08/2023

𝓟𝓪𝓷𝓬𝓱𝓪𝓬𝓱𝓾𝓵𝓵𝓲 5
𝓓𝓪𝓷𝓽𝓾 𝓿𝓲𝓵𝓵𝓪𝓰𝓮
𝓓𝓪𝓻𝓶𝓪 𝓥𝓪𝓵𝓵𝓮𝔂

26/08/2023

This is what it looks like when you have strength, power and poise in spades. can basically do anything on rock.

11/08/2023

Running wild down the foothills of the Beaufortain massif , somewhere around world

Photo Art © ► .sail_ •

04/08/2023

crown of all lakes

TSO Moriri Lake, Leh, Ladakh, India

04/08/2023

On July 31, 1954, K2, the second peak of the planet, was climbed for the first time, along with one of the biggest controversies in .

Located in the Karakorum Mountains, the K2 summit could be considered the home mountain of the Americans, having organized no less than three expeditions until 1954 with notable results. The 1938 expedition made the recognition of the Abruzzi ridge, the classic route on which the summit would be climbed, and in 1939 Fritz Wiessner would reach 200 meters of the summit. Ultimately, the American expedition in 1953 demonstrated the power of a well-oiled machinery and only gambling did not allow the summit climb; the heroic retreat to save one of the members remained landmarks in mountain history.

The Italian expedition of 1954 was a logistic colossus. Built in the nationalist spirit of the years, the expedition was three times larger than the expedition that climbed Everest in 1953, weighed 16 tons, and the amount spent would have reached 1.5 million dollars today. Following the example of Everest and Annapurna expeditions, the Italian leader Ardito Desio was convinced of the success of a militarist approach. A geologist by profession, it was an obvious thing that Desio was more interested in scientific research than mountaineering, but he already realized the value of national pride in the case of a first ascent by the Italians. Desio's appointment as leader at the time sparked amazement in the alpine circles, with most of them counting Ricardo Cassin as the most suitable person to lead the expedition, being the most important Italian climber at the time. Finally, Cassin was not included even in the list of members, the official reasons being of medical nature, but everyone knew the truth: had Cassin participated in the expedition, the press would have drawn its attention to him, Desio falling into the background.

The expedition installed the intermediate camps, and on July 30, it was decided that Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli to install the last camp, IX, and Walter Bonatti and Pino Galloti to bring the oxygen bottles from the area of camp VII, at 7400m, a difficult task. It was agreed that the IX camp would be installed around an altitude of 7900m, to reduce the support team's effort, but eventually, the camp was installed at 8150m, in an exposed and difficult area. On the afternoon of July 30, Bonatti, together with Enrico Abram and the local Hunza Amir Mahdi, began carrying oxygen bottles to the IX camp. Although Mahdi didn’t have any altitude boots, Bonatti managed to convince him to join the effort by promising a cash boost and the suggestion that he could step on top of K2. With the sunset, Abram descends, and Bonatti and Mahdi seek, in vain, camp IX. Still weighed down by 36kg oxygen bottles, Bonatti dug a gear into the snow, preparing for the bivouac at 8100m, with no sleeping bag and no tent. Only at 22 o'clock a light shone from somewhere above, and Lacedelli's voice broke the silence of the night, asking them to leave the oxygen there and come down. Bonatti and Mahdi spent the night in the open air.

On the morning of July 31, Compagnoni and Lacedelii recover their oxygen bottles and, with the help of additional gas, start their climb to the K2 summit, where they arrive around 18:00. On the descent, they encounter difficulties once the extra oxygen is finished and they arrive around 23:00 in the VII camp.

Despite the achievement of the first ascent of the K2 summit, the events of 30-31 July 1954 were supposed to make waves for the next 50 years. In his 1961 autobiography, Bonatti suggests that the IX camp was deliberately installed higher than originally suspected. In 1963, in a Turin newspaper, two articles appear in which Bonatti is accused of trying to steal the top and of cheating Mahdi by offering him a seat at the top. Furthermore, he would have used the oxygen he carried, which is why Compagnoni and Lacedelli would have been left without oxygen during the ascent. The dispute was resolved in 1966, in the courtroom, Bonatti demonstrating that, in the absence of masks, that were already in the IX camp, oxygen bottles could not be used. In any case, Bonatti's image was strongly affected by this scandal.

In 1985, Bonatti published a new book accusing Desio of lying in the official report. Finally, there is a theory by which Compagnoni, aware of the potential of the young Bonatti, ensures that he will not be able to be part of the top team and sets the camp in an inaccessible place. Furthermore, it proves that Mahdi’s miseries suffered were not due to the bonus promised by Bonatti to “steal the top”, as Desio and Compagnoni claimed, but were the result of the unprotected bivouac. Finally, some unpublished photos from the summit proved that the oxygen didn't run out sooner, with both Compagnoni and Lacedelli using the installation at the time of reaching the summit.

In 2004, not less than 50 years after the Italian expedition, it is Lino Lacedelii’s turn to break the silence; in his book about the expedition, Desio is described as a tough dictator, who has only been understood with Compagnoni. Furthermore, Lacedelli confirms that the camp move was Compagnoni's decision, to prevent Bonatti from reaching the top of K2.

Bonatti would become a world-class climber with multiple difficult ascents in the Alps and Patagonia and completing the first ascent of the difficult Gasherbrum IV in 1958, as part of an expedition led by Ricardo Cassin, and in 1965 the first solo winter ascent of the northern face of the Matterhorn. In 1965, at the age of 35, he gave up professional mountaineering.

29/07/2023

- 26 x 8000s
- All 14 x 8000s without bottled oxygen
- 4 new routes open
- 2 first winter climbs
Happy Birthday to LEGENDARY Denis Urubko!🙏

Photo ©: Denis Urubko/Facebook.

24/06/2023

Gasherbrum IV, surveyed as K3, is the 17th highest mountain on Earth and the 6th highest in Pakistan. One of the peaks in the Gasherbrum massif, its immense West Face looms over the glacial junction of Concordia to the west.
Elevation: 7,925 m

30/05/2023

First ascent on this day, 2004.05.26; Kumbhakarna, (aka Jannu, 7711m) via the "Direct North Face", a.k.a. "The Wall of Shadows", by a Russian party.

In 2004, after a failed attempt the previous year, a Russian team led by Alexander Odintsov succeeded in climbing the direct north face route through the headwall. This required big-wall aid techniques in a sustained, committing setting at over 7500m, a major achievement. However, some in the climbing community were upset to learn that the Russians left a good deal of equipment on the wall, provoking a debate over what constitutes appropriate modern style on such a route. Despite the controversy, the team was awarded the Piolet d'Or for the ascent.

[info; wikipedia.org / image; mountain.ru]

28/05/2023

The world has lost a fearless soul. Sadly, it is goodbye to 🇭🇺 Suhajda Szilard (Békéscsaba, 1982 – Mt , Nepal, 2023).

During these difficult times, it is important to remember and celebrate the incredible achievements and experiences Suhajda Szilard had throughout his life.

His bravery and passion for exploration will continue to inspire us all. We're sending heartfelt condolences to his family and the entire adventure community grieving his loss.

Photo ©: Suhajda Szilard Archives.

21/02/2023

The Gurkhas Fear None!

This image from the Everest 1922 Expedition (most probably) shows Gurkha soldiers in the most basic form of gears up in Everest.
There is nothing that meets the standards of a mountaineering gear set. Even the rope is tied directly around the waist.
And crazier, the Gurkha to the right is in Daura-Surwal (a thin cotton Nepal's national dress). Daura Surwal in Everest!

The Gurkhas fear nothing! Not even the piecing cold and thin air in altitude.