31/08/2022
Kalesma Mykonos
Set on a bougainvillea-scented hilltop overlooking Ornos Bay, this serene, whitewashed sanctuary is a refreshingly discreet alternative to Mykonos’s flashy party scene.
Why book?
Set on a bougainvillea-scented hilltop overlooking Ornos Bay, this serene, whitewashed sanctuary is a refreshingly discreet alternative to Mykonos’s flashy party scene.
Set the scene
All across the island, beach clubs buzz to DJ beats and the party goes 24/7—unless you’re a guest at Kalesma. This intimate, laidback stay has created a different kind of scene, free of see-and-be-seen celebs like Paris Hilton and Kendall Jenner. The epitome of discreet, most guests lounge by their private plunge pools by day only to emerge just before sunset to sip grapefruit spritzes or signature G&Ts mixed with raspberry kombucha at the main pool bar, and dine on the excellent Mediterranean fare at Pere Ubu restaurant. With just 25 suites and two villas spread across five acres, Kalesma could be mistaken for a private estate, meticulously landscaped with 60-year-old olive trees, fuchsia and tangerine bougainvillea vines, and fragrant herbs. The designers have brilliantly married Mykonian tradition with modernity, contrasting Rick Owens furnishings and works from Serbian artist Aleksander Vac with organic interiors featuring marble, wood, and sand-blasted stone. Jackie Onassis would have certainly been a regular among the fashionable young guests—natural beauties who go makeup-free and well-groomed gents in Bottega Veneta swim trunks.
The backstory
Given the quality of the hotel’s restaurant, it should come as no surprise the Greek owners, Makis Kousathanas and Aby Saltiel, are also behind three of Athens’s top tables. The men grew up summering on Mykonos, and the hotel's land has been in one of their families for over a century. Greek designers Studio Bonarchi and K-Studio were brought in to give the authentic architecture a contemporary twist. Saltiel is often on-site playing host and creating the feel of being at a friend’s summer holiday house.
The rooms
Be warned, particularly if this is your first trip to Mykonos: You will need a lot of convincing to leave your room and explore the island. This is the type of hotel where you bring your partner or lover, skinny dip in your private plunge pool, make love in the outdoor shower, and order room service to enjoy in your king-sized bed or on your private terrace. The smallest suites are a spacious 680 square feet, with 970-square-foot patios discreetly hidden from view by clever landscaping. One-bedroom villas add between 1,500 and 1,900 square feet to the interiors and feature outdoor kitchens with barbecue areas. Interiors of whitewashed walls, stone floors, and chestnut-and-bamboo ceilings were inspired by old-world Cycladic architecture. The attention to detail is extraordinary. Horse hair-wrapped sconces by design studio Apparatus and custom hangers made with metallic equine-shaped hooks reference the horses that, according to Greek mythology, Apollo once stabled here. And the beds have been perfectly angled so you can wake to watch the sunrise above the Aegean through the floor-to-ceiling French doors.
Food and drink
The open-air restaurant, Pere Ubu, has already become one of the toughest reservations on the island, thanks to fresh, flavorful Cycladic dishes like baked sea bass wrapped in fig leaves and wood-fired lamb chops with favas and artichokes. Arrive early at Aloni sunset lounge to score a sofa by the fire pits and order a platter of meze (homemade hummus, tzatziki, smoked eggplant) and a bottle of crisp Assyrtiko from Santorini to enjoy as the sun sinks behind the island of Delos. The smell of fresh bread baking in the brick oven will lure even late-night partiers out of bed. (Though thankfully, breakfast is served until noon.) Don’t miss the soft scrambled eggs with feta and smashed avocado that come served with rustic whole grain sesame bread.
The spa
A spa is set to debut in 2022. For now, guests can book in-room massages and beauty treatments. The basement-level gym is small but has everything a fitness nerd could ask for, including Technogym cardio machines, kettlebells, and foam rollers. Personal trainers or yoga instructors can be booked for private poolside sessions.
The neighborhood/area
Tucked away on the northwest side of the island, the Aleomandra neighborhood is just 15 minutes from the main town of Mykonos, allowing guests to easily pop into the party scene and then retreat back to this low-key oasis. Kalesma is perched on a hillside that overlooks yacht-studded Ornos Bay, and it almost feels like a private island, affording guests both sunrise and sunset views.
The service
Intuitive and friendly. They remember exactly how you like your coffee in the morning and which wine you prefer. The concierge team is incredibly connected and makes you feel like an instant island VIP. I had booked a table at Scorpios beach club months in advance for a party of eight, and when it fell through at the last minute, the concierge was able to rebook me with an even better table for drinks and a table for dinner day of. They can also arrange bespoke activities, like a guided tour of the archeological site on nearby Delos or a helicopter tour of the coast.
For families
The owner and his wife have a young daughter who is frequently on property, and they keep guests’ children engaged by giving smaller kids buckets with beach toys and older kids reading and activity books about Greek myths.
Eco effort
The hotel collects rainwater to irrigate the gardens surrounding the property and recirculates and filters water for the pools. Bathrooms have dispensers for toiletries versus individual packaging, and the hotel is free of single-use plastic.
Accessibility
Two one-bedroom suites are ADA accessible.
Anything left to mention?
Two grand villas can be connected for a hotel-within-a-hotel feel complete with your own private gym and heated pool, plus chef and butler service by request. Athens-based jewelry store Zerteo, known for its trademark jewel-encrusted evil eyes, curates the boutique.
Finally, in 100 words or less, what makes this hotel worthy of Hot List?
Mykonos is no longer all about the party, thanks to the addition of Kalesma. This stylish hideaway has a restaurant that raises the island’s culinary credentials and suites sexy enough to warrant a spontaneous weekend getaway where you and your partner don’t leave your room. The design pays homage to Cycladic tradition and Greek mythology, while incorporating surprising touches like a Rick Owens double bubble sofa. Both owners frequent the property, making you feel like a very special guest at the island’s best-hosted dinner party. Trust us, you’ll be hard pressed to go back to the island’s all-night beach raves.