20/01/2023
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Day 4: Fes: Exploring the Imperial City & Medieval Medina
A view over the Tanneries Chouara, Fes
A view over the Tanneries Chouara in Fes
Today you'll learn about Fes, the oldest of the Imperial Cities in Morocco and perhaps the most interesting and exciting to explore. Its medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the most complete of its kind in the Arab world. Because the city never experienced much colonial development, much of Fes feels like stepping back through time hundreds of years ago. How you tour Fes and its highlights is up to you, so consider some of these options or ask your local specialists for ideas that speak to your interests.
If you're inspired by history and culture and have time to spare, you could spend a couple of days wandering the medina, visiting Madrasa, and exploring beyond the medina walls. If you have a shorter trip, a full day exploring the medina and a few highlights outside may be enough. Either way, we recommend using an expert guide for a half-day tour to learn more about this stellar city and help you navigate the medina.
Fes el Bali ("Old Fes") is a great place to start your adventure. This city, founded in the 8th century CE by Moulay Idriss I, welcomed refugees from Cordoba in southern Spain and Kairouan in Tunisia (both capitals of western Islam at the time). Their skill in architecture and craftsmanship played a large role as the city grew over the next hundred years as the city grew organically (thus the maze-like narrow streets).
The charming medina area will likely draw most of your time and focus. The roads are much narrower, windier, and steeper than those of Marrakesh, making it almost impossible not to get lost at least a few times (part of the fun, just keeping walking until the flow of people increases and you find yourself on one of the main streets). Shop the iconic souks (markets) of every variety, spices, vegetables, leather goods, ceramics, metal, shoes, scarves, medicines, and more. Many are concentrated together and you're bound to see artisans at work in small shops.
Be sure to also check out the famed Tanneries Chouara, which still implement traditional techniques from centuries ago. Find a local leather shop for a view from above (giving the tanner a small donation may help you gain access) to watch the masters at work. The process starts with a soak in a mixture of pigeon droppings and limestone which helps remove any remaining fur and soften the leather. Next, the leather is dyed in the large colored vats for about a week before being set out to dry on nearby rooftops or hillsides. To guard against the pungent scent, grab some mint leaves to have onhand during your visit.
The medina is also home to the 9th-century Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque, which can hold up to 20,000 worshipers inside. Although it's only open to Muslims, there are a few places where you can glimpse inside to admire the beautifully decorated interior. Next door sits one of the oldest universities in the world — Islamic University, regarded as Morocco's scientific capital. You can also visit the old Madrasas, intricately decorated housing for university students: check out the Medersa Bou Inania (currently under renovation), and the Al Attarine Madrasa (built in 1325). Their stunning main courtyards showcase detailed tile work, dark cedar woodwork, and intricately carved stucco patterns. Head upstairs to see old student dorm rooms with great views.
From here, stop through the famous Bab Boujeloud, the large gate that welcomes you into Fes el Bali from the west. The outside is blue (the traditional color for Fes), and inside is green (the color for Islam). Heading through the gate to see the main thoroughfare of Talâa Kebira, which is packed with shops. Treat yourself to some retail therapy or pop by the Musée Batha, home to many Moroccan arts — including carved wood and traditional pottery — and a beautiful central garden.
Southwest of and uphill from the old city, is Fes el Jedid (“New Fes”), built in the 13th century when the Merenid Dynasty came to power. From the street, you can admire the Royal Palace and the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter and its cemetery, where you can take in a stunning panorama of the city. Just beyond the medina, you can tour a local ceramics and tilework collective. You'll get a quick overview of the full process, from mixing the clay to painting the designs on the fired piece. You'll also see tile masters at work, fitting together the intricate puzzles forming impressive mosaics.
No matter how you choose to explore Fes, consider enjoying the sunset from the Merenid Tombs in the north or Borj Sud in the south; both viewpoints offer fantastic views of this dynamic city with timeless roots.
Day 5: Over the Middle Atlas to the Desert: Erfoud, Merzouga & the Sahara
Spend the night in a tent in the Sahara
Spend the night in a Bedouin tent in the Sahara
Get an early start today, as you'll be covering a lot of ground. You'll be heading over the Middle Atlas, through a cedar forest, stopping through towns, and ultimately arriving near Merzouga at the Sahara Desert's iconic sand dunes, where you can ride a camel before enjoying a delicious traditional dinner and spending the night in a Bedouin tent.
Your scenic journey this morning takes you through the town of Azrou, over the Col du Zad Pass and through the cedar forests of the Middle Atlas mountains, where you can spot Barbary macaque monkeys in the trees and by the side of the road. You'll enjoy lunch and a short stop in Midelt, "the apple city;" be sure to look out onto the nearby River Moulouya, which enables these orchards to grow in the desert.
After lunch, you'll continue over the Tizi-n-Talremt pass and into the Ziz Valley, known for its hidden oases and palm tree clusters. Along the road, you will see many fortified houses known as “ksars,” built by merchants to product precious goods like gold, salt, and spices. Just before Erfoud, you'll see glimpses of the ever-shifting Saharan sand dunes. Because the dunes travel with the wind, they can encroach on farms, roads, and buildings. You'll also see an ancient method of water "mining" — an ingenious way to transfer water to farmland — as well as nomadic shepherds and their settlements. If time permits, you may even be able to visit a local nomadic Berber family here for a spot of tea.
The next stop is Erfoud, a bustling market town known for its date festival, fossil mining, and artisan factories. Stop at a local artisan collective where you can to learn about the area's fossils and see how the fossil-rich rock is transformed into beautiful objects. Soon you will see the sand waves of the Erg Chebbi, an extensive sea of sand dunes covering; their color change depending on the time of day and they are especially spectacular at dusk.
If the desert is calling, take a short break near Merzouga for a camel ride through the dunes; you'll arrive at camp just before sunset. Climb up the nearest sand dune to watch the colorful display on the sand sea as the sun dips in the west, then head back to camp for dinner, followed by an evening of traditional Berber music by your campfire. Before you head to bed, take a look at the expansive night sky, then turn in for the night in your traditional Bedouin tent.
If four walls and modern comfort are more your style, you can also opt to spend the night at a comfortable hotel/auberge / riad in Merzouga.
Total driving time: Approximately 7-7.5 hours
Day 6: Erg Shibi, Dades Valley, and Ouarzazate
A view over the oases near Tinerhir
A view over the oases near Tinerhir
Set your alarm before dawn, then crawl out of your tent and bundle up for a sensational sunrise over the sand dunes. After breakfast, spend the morning exploring more of the Sahara: you can rent a sandboard and test your skills on the dunes, tour Erg Shibi tour (around the sand dunes), join a quad ATV tour, or simply relax for a bit by a pool.
Cap your morning off with a visit to Khamleya, a traditional Saharan village whose people originate from Mali. Enjoy local music, drumming and dancing before taking an easy walk around the village and its farmed plots in the sand. As you leave the Merzouga region, stop in Rissani, another market town with an impressive gate at the town's entrance. Walk around the traditional stalls, watch livestock sales, and stop by the "donkey parking lot."
Continue through the desert to the town of Tinerhir and take in a great view of the nearby towns that cling to the side of the green river oasis, which filled with verdant palm trees. The surrounding desert landscape reveals impressive buttes, mesas, and plateaus. You'll also stop by the Todra Gorge, which stands 984 feet (300 m) high, and features stunning red-stained limestones. Here you can enjoy an easy walk through the gorge, or relax in the cool water of the shallow river.
Your journey then travels along the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs, a fortified complex where chiefs and landowners once lived. You'll see various farms, many of which still use traditional methods, and will likely encounter Nomads herding sheep, goats, and camels. You'll then pass through the Dades Valley, where cultivated plots of farmland are bordered by rose bushes, which are used to make rose water and rose oil. If you're here in May, you might catch the annual Rose Festival that celebrating the year’s production. Stop at the rose collective, where you can watch the distillation process; on the roadside, you may even see boys selling various crafts made from the roses.
You can also stop in Ouarzazate, a popular filming location for both local productions and Hollywood movies. You can tour one of the two movie studios here, where you'll get an up-close look at props and sets, then head to the Musée du Cinema for more background on local film history. If the landscape nearby looks familiar, it may because this area is featured in a number of Hollywood productions over the last century, including Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, and Game of Thrones.
Total driving time: 5-5.5 hours
Day 7: Aït Benhaddou to Marrakesh
Roads crossing the Atlas
Roads crossing the Atlas
Start your day in Aït Benhaddou, the most famous Kasbah in Morocco and a UNESCO World Heritage site, which is believed to date back to the 11th century. As you head up and over the High Atlas, look out for the highest peak, Mount Toubkal, which stands at 13,671 feet (4,167 m). Near the top of the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass, you can enjoy great panoramic views over the mountain range, as well as the road ahead that snakes down the mountainside.
The first town after the pass is Taddert where you can stop at an oil cooperative to learn how olives are processed for a variety of uses. Taste a few products, then head back on the road. As you descend from the mountains, you'll notice a dramatic change in climate and landscape, with river valleys carved into the hillsides. After all the tranquillity of the mountains and the desert, soon you will be in the midst of the hustle, bustle, and clamor of vibrant Marrakesh.
Check into your hotel and relax before heading back out in the early evening, when Jemaa el Fna, the main square, comes alive with musicians, performers, snake charmers, games, food stalls and more. Wander around stalls, vendors, and performers or enjoy it all from a distance; situate yourself from a café surrounding the square and enjoy the show while you tuck into a delicious meal.
Total driving time: 4 hours
Day 8: Marrakesh and Departure
Koutoubia Mosque
Koutoubia Mosque
Depending on your flight time, you may have time in the morning to explore more before your transport to the Marrakesh Menara airport. If you do, here's some background on the city and its highlights.
The bustling city of Marrakesh, Morocco's second-largest city, will undoubtedly shock your senses with its vibrant sights, sounds, and smells. “The red city” is named for its stunning natural red ochre pigment in the walls. If you have the time, consider using an expert guide for a half-day tour of the history and culture, as well as the medina's hidden gems.
To understand the layout, orient yourself around Jemaa el Fna Square: the souks are to the north, the Koutoubia Mosque & Gardens to the west and the Kasbah area with the Saadian Tombs, Bahia Palace, and El Badi Palace are to the south. In the Ville Nouvelle, you will find the Majorelle Gardens.
If your flight is later in the evening, spend some time in Jemaa el Fna Square, which begins to fill in the late afternoon with musicians, storytellers, acrobats, dancers, henna artists, and snake charmers. As it gets dark, many rows of food stalls will begin to appear, serving anything from full meals to fruit drinks, dried dates, and small snacks. For a more relaxed experience, look for one of the many cafés that sit above the square to enjoy a meal or tea while you watch the show below. You can also tour the nearby area in style on a Caliche Horse Carriage.
If your flight is earlier in the day, head west of Jemaa el Fna, where you'll be greeted by the striking minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque in the distance across Avenue Mohammed V. Although entrance is restricted to Muslims, non-Muslims can enjoy the gorgeous exterior: on the north side of the mosque, you will see the foundations of the original structure, which had to be rebuilt to properly align with Mecca. Walk around the back of the mosque to the beautiful Koutoubia Gardens, filled with fountains, pools, palm trees, and flowers. It’s a perfect place for a late afternoon stroll when the late-day sun glows on the minaret.
You can also concentrate your time wandering the souks, alleys, and markets in the medina. Many areas are covered, which can be a nice respite from the heat. A few souks you may want to explore: Souk el Attarin (spices), Souk Haddadine (blacksmiths), and Souk Smata (slippers). One souk not to miss is the Souk des Teinturiers, the dyers’ souk. Here you can see people dying cloth and yarn, which will then hang above the streets in the afternoon to dry. You'll also find many shops with rugs and leather goods nearby.
Along many of the alleys, you’ll notice large open spaces and courtyards. These Fondouks were once inns used by visiting traders and merchants who slept on the upper floors while their animals stayed on the ground floor. Today some have been converted into residential places, while others are large shopping areas and workshops that you can explore.
If you're looking to escape the crowd, check out the beautifully renovated 16th-century Medersa Ben Youssef (Koranic school), which once housed students of the nearby mosque of Ben Youssef. Inside you can appreciate the carved cedar, stucco plaster and zellij tiling of the central courtyard, wander the old dorms where up to 800 students once lived, and visit the prayer hall.
Other sites in the area include:
The Almoravid Kouba, the only intact Almoravid building
Marrakesh Museum — housed in the 19th century Dar Mnebbi Palace — features a collection of sculptures and various other Moroccan artwork
Museum of Moroccan Arts and Crafts, which features stunning woodwork, including traditional wedding palanquins used to carry brides
Beyond the medina, you'll find the fascinating Kasbah area, home to several worthwhile sights:
Saadian Tombs
These secret tombs from the 16th century were hidden for many years, only to "discovered" by the French Authorities in the 1930s. Enter through a very narrow passage to discover a small garden, graves and three main pavilions. As you peer inside, you will notice the detailed craftsmanship and beauty.
El Badi Palace
Although this palace, built in the early 17th century, fell into dereliction after the death of El Badi ("The Incomparable"), you can still visit its extensive courtyard and sunken gardens.
Bahia Palace
Built in the 19th century, this was the largest and most luxurious palace in its day. Today you can explore the courtyard, gardens, and appreciate the intricate woodwork and painted ceilings.
Majorelle Gardens
If you have time for a 30-minute walk or a quick taxi ride, consider visiting these lush, expansive gardens filled with sub-tropical plants, bamboo, lilies, and palms. It’s the perfect place to escape the afternoon heat and noise for a more relaxing experience.
Map
Map of Grand Tour: Casablanca, Meknes, Chefchaouen, Fes, Sahara Desert, Marrakech - 8 Days
Map of Grand Tour: Casablanca, Meknes, Chefchaouen, Fes, Sahara Desert, Marrakech - 8 Days
Chris
Written by Chris McCarty, updated Nov 29, 2022
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California, United States
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Carola
Argentina
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