18/01/2025
Travelogue 12
Mardan, Swabi & Part of Swat
🌲 I happened to visit Mardan and the surrounding areas. This region often doesn’t figure prominently, despite being so close to Islamabad.
🌲 Our first stop was Hund Museum. The travel time from F7, without a break, via the scenic motorway is about 1 hour and 15 minutes. You exit at the Swabi interchange, and from there, a good single road with no rush takes you to the destination.
🌲 Hund is a scenic spot along the banks of the River Indus. Though the water levels seemed low and the sight of crushing machines churning river stones was unpleasant, the place is still remarkable. Spread over 50 Kanals, Hund is historically significant as the site where Alexander the Great crossed the river. A monument within the Hund Museum complex commemorates this event. According to history, Alexander divided his army into two. One portion, led by him, crossed through Nawagai Bajaur and captured present-day Chakdara by defeating the fortress of Barikot, the ruins of which remain a vital archaeological site today. The other portion, led by General Hephaestion, crossed from Khyber, defeated the king of Pushkalavati (present-day Charsadda), and joined Alexander at Hund. From there, both armies crossed the Indus and advanced toward Taxila, the heart of Gandhara.
🌲 The Hund Museum also features a small excavated site from the Hindu Shahi period, proving the historical significance of the location. Opened in 1986, the museum has spacious halls, a forensic lab, quarters, training space, and a small guest house overlooking the Indus. Unfortunately, it was under renovation as part of a World Bank program. I managed to see the artifacts stored temporarily. The visitor's book suggests the site remains relatively unknown. Considering its proximity to Islamabad, this museum could serve as an alternative to the Peshawar Museum. I plan to revisit once the renovations are complete.
🌲 Our next stop was the Asota Megalith Stone Hinges in the village of Shewa. I have always been fascinated by how Swabi came to have stone hinges, discovered by a British Lieutenant Colonel before partition. It reminds me of the famous Stonehenge in Salisbury, UK, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The village name, Shewa, may be derived from Lord Shiva. I was pleasantly surprised by the good road infrastructure in the area. Traveling from Hund, or directly from Islamabad, takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes, comparable to the time it takes to travel from Bahria Town to F6 during rush hour.
🌲 On the way, I came across Captain Karnal Sher Khan’s mausoleum. I couldn’t resist paying homage to this great son of the soil. Though the mausoleum was closed, its architecture allows visitors to offer prayers from outside. I missed meeting his family but will return another time.
🌲 Driving through the mustard fields of Shewa, I noticed banners with amusing names like "Maulvi Shoes," reflecting the simplicity of the locals. 😊 The Asota Stone Hinges are unique, covering over a Kanal and fenced off. Locals tell a tale that these stones were once a wedding procession turned into stone. Others refer to it as "Asota Sharif." Archaeological theories suggest it might have been an astronomical site from 3,000–5,000 years ago or a place of religious rituals. One stone even had inscriptions, possibly in Kharosthi script. I believe universities should study these hinges further to establish their historical and cultural connections. Dr. Fida, a local expert, mentioned similar sites exist in India. The Archaeology Department should consider placing an informational board at the site.
🌲 From there, we travelled for another hour to reach Mardan, famous as the home of the Guides Corps—my corps, so I admit my bias! The Guides Memorial in the city center commemorates the siege of the Kabul Residency. Though the structure is in good condition, it could use an uplift. We were hosted by the Commandant of the Mardan Center, where we visited the Guides Chapel and two cemeteries. It’s remarkable how the British, as rulers, left such a legacy, from railways to hospitals.
🌲 I visited to assess Mardan as a tourism base since key sites like Takht Bhai, Ranighat, Aziz Dheri, and Swat are all within an hour's distance. The history officer’s presentation on the tourist sites of Mardan and the Malakand Division was insightful. It’s no wonder the British chose Mardan as their center—it remains strategic to this day.
🌲 As the day wore on, we rushed to Saidu Sharif Serena for dinner with scholars from renowned global universities who were visiting Gandhara sites. Driving through the scenic, twisting roads of Malakand Division, we passed the iconic Malakand Fort, perched at 3,615 feet. The fort and its surroundings are stunning, and Green Tourism is working to establish a resort with adventure facilities here. I also visited a British soldiers’ cemetery, recently renovated through efforts by MG Hamid, Dr. Adil, and the British Heritage Foundation.
🌲 In Saidu Sharif, I met scholars from institutions like Harvard, MIT, Stanford, Oxford, and others. I shared ideas for promoting Buddhist pilgrimage tourism and received valuable suggestions. One monk shared pictures of a monastery in his country, three times the size of Data Sahib in Lahore!
🌲 Despite Swat’s turbulent past, tourism has overcome terrorism. The vibrant shops, neon signs, and modern facilities in Swat rival those in Islamabad. Crossing the Swat River, with twinkling village lights, we retired to the beautiful new Kanju Cantonment.
More updates tomorrow 😊🌲🌹
MD Green Tourism
Hassan
Contact information, map and directions, contact form, opening hours, services, ratings, photos, videos and announcements from Green Tourism Pvt. Ltd., Parvin Shakir Road, F-7/2, Islamabad.
