16/09/2018
[WHERE TO GO?]
Imagine you're at a restaurant. You are just about to finish your caldo verde (kale soup) - heaven on earth, isn't it? Your patanisca (strips of cod fried in batter) is already waiting for you on the table. Looks like another delicious Portuguese meal, but somehow this time you feel something in the air. And you are right – all of a sudden the old man that a while ago was enjoying his meal stands up and heads to the front of the restaurant. You hear a guitar and the man starts to sing, his voice filling up the whole room. "Oh wow" and you think, "is that for real? What is happening here?"
Fado, which in Portuguese means “destiny” or “fate” is a traditional Portuguese style of music with origins difficult to trace. Although first rejected by the Portuguese intellectuals, as it was associated to society's most marginal spheres and took place in locations visited by pr******tes, sailors and coachmen; Fado began to gain popularity in the early decades of the 20th century, becoming a national cultural icon thanks to the famous and internationally recognized Amália Rodrigues. Since 2007, it is on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List, and you surely shouldn’t miss a Fado evening during your visit in Porto. But just like trying a 3 year old basic Tawny Port, it is not quite the same as trying a 30 year old Tawny. Your experience with Fado can be very different, depending on where you go. And I truly recommend you to follow my steps on this one - let me take you to one of the hidden spots where Fado Vadio takes place, and I promise it will be something you won´t forget!
Why Fado Vadio? Because places with street Fado are the only spots where you can experience the scene described above, where the person sitting at the table by your side will enchant the room singing a song or two, followed by another stranger, who has just stepped in to sing his share of Fado before rushing home for dinner. Who knows, it might be a lady who sold you bread earlier in the day, or a man you saw on a tram, and this is exactly what makes it so special – it can be anyone, even you, as there are parts where the whole restaurant is encouraged to sing together. Every singer will be introduced to the crowd by a host, which is a true master of ceremonies, and will consult the theme he wants to sing with the guitarists – if they feel like they can play it through, he is free to go. Normally one person sings two songs, during which, by special signs, it is agreed who will be the next one up. There are times when somebody might be surprised to hear his name called, but he will clean his mouth with a napkin and rush to the front anyway. The youngsters, trying their luck for the first time, are helped by the entire group of veterans, and what makes it all extra special is the fact that none of the singers is paid to participate – they just go to see their friends, eat, drink, sing and enjoy their time.
Even though in many places the regulars have known each other for over twenty or thirty years, you will be welcomed like a special guest, if only you follow a set of basic rules. Remember to be silent while somebody is singing – the respect that the participants have for Fado can be seen even in the language they use to describe it: they will not say “Fado is sung here”, but use the phrase “Fado takes place here”, underlining the importance of the situation. Also, try to wait until the end of the song to visit the restroom, and until the cigarette break to leave, to avoid distracting the singer. Hats are also not appreciated while Fado is sung, so take yours off before you enter. And most importantly, since the entrance to Fado Vadio is free, try to show your appreciation for the show by ordering local wine and snacks, as for the restaurant or bar you’re at this is an important evening when it comes to their weekly income.
It is not difficult – most of those places make fresh and delicious petiscos, (Portuguese tapas) which can easily satisfy your hunger in those usual Fado Vadio hours between lunch and dinner. Caldo verde soup and codfish treats – bolinhos de bacalhau and pataniscas – are my personal favorites, but the waiter will normally tell you, sometimes with the help of the locals if language is a problem, what they have available. Very often, in the places with shared tables, you might be invited to taste your neighbor’s snack or, if you´re a woman, receive a rose made from a napkin as a sign of gallantry. Careful, next thing you know, there is somebody dedicating you a Fado song! It is always good to be there a little bit before the locals begin to sing, as in the most popular places if you arrive on time or later you might have problems getting a seat. Once you're there relax, close your eyes and imagine it is Maria Severa, a 19th century pr******te that would sing Fado in taverns, that is performing, surrounded by sailors and coachmen. Allow yourself to feel the Portuguese "fate" for a while, and don't be surprised if somebody sheds a tear, as the lyrics, very often concerning the struggles of life, love and family issues, can be very emotional. And if you like the performance of any of the singers in particular, don't be afraid to express it - using your language skills, palms or even a napkin rose. Respect, appreciation and the willingness to integrate are big parts of those events and your hosts will be really happy to see that you're enjoying what they put their heart and soul into.
Where to go? Fado Vadio takes place in different places on different days of the week, so you can see which one best fits your schedule during the days you will spend in Porto. Let me take you to on this incredible adventure - call me at 00351 918948793 and let's include some fado during our Porto walk!
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