Elbrus360

24/11/2023

SKI TOURING ON MT. KAZBEK

The surroundings of Mount Kazbek offer excellent opportunities for interesting and varied ski touring. There are many accessible locations and there are warm, comfortable hotels everywhere.

The best time for ski touring is from December to mid-April.

In addition to excellent ski touring, travelers will definitely appreciate Georgian cuisine, wine and the hospitality of the locals.

We don't have sheduled ski touring departures for Mt. Kazbek region, we arrange such tours on request.
Please request in Direct!

15/11/2023

FLIGHTS & VISAS
Flights and insurance are the two main problems that people face by planning their trip to Elbrus. We have solutions for both of them!

Flights to Russia are not shown by international search engines due to sanctions. But there are still websites where you can check available flights and book them. For example, search.jetradar.com. Our clients have booked their flights trough this website this summer and it really works! 

Another difficulty is obtaining travel insurance for Russia. Western insurance companies don't recommend trips to Russia and don't issue policies for those trips. But you can obtain a mountaineering insurance policy issued by a Russian insurance company, we will help you with this! It will work both for applying for visa and rescue works in mountains when necessary.
By the way, electronic visa is available for most countries, so you don't have to visit consulate in person.

Another issue that worries many travelers is security in the region. We assure you that the situation in Russia is calm and safe, including Elbrus region. This can be confirmed by our many guests who climbed Elbrus this summer.

09/11/2023

Reservation for 2024 is open!

Check new dates and prices for Mt. Elbrus and Kazbek tours following the tapling in the head of our account. Or request in Direct.

Only in November you can enjoy 25% discount by transfering 50% deposit for the tour. The deposit is refundable by cancelling the tour up to 2 weeks before it starts.

If you defenitely want to go, share this post on Instagram and get $100 discount for hiring climbing equipment on Elbrus!

Next time we'll share a secret how to book cheap flights to Russia 😉

28/02/2023

Sometimes, foreign nationals require a valid visa to enter another country. Georgia is famous for its fairly liberal visa policy - citizens of 98 countries can cross the border of Georgia, travel, work and study without any visas or relevant permits.

The list includes all EU countries and the UK.

In the highlights, we have fixed a link where you can check your country in the list.

Therefore, if you are planning to climb one of the highest five-thousanders in the European territory without a visa, Kazbek is an ideal choice.

For all the details please write to Direct

16/02/2023

Georgia is not only a country of beautiful mountains. It also offers to its visitors delicious cousine and fine wines.

What you should definitely try in Georgia:

🥟 Khinkali. It is a Georgian dumpling. It is made of twisted k***s of dough, stuffed with meat and spices, sometimes with cheese and potatoes. There is a special art of eating khinkali: you take it with your hands and bite carefully for not to spill the broth. It is customary to leave the end of the dough uneaten. Khinkali are served without cutlery and bread.

🥣 Kharcho. A rich, spicy soup that will save you from a cold or a hangover.

🫓 Khachapuri. These are pies with different fillings. The most popular are Adjarian khachapuris or as the locals call them - “boats”. It consists of tender dough and salty Georgian suluguni cheese. Order the largest size of the pie, as they are incredibly delicious.

🍷Wines. There are many vineyards in Georgia, so it is definitely worth tasting the different wines here. There are plenty of options, but locals prefer to drink dry white wine chilled. White wine in Georgia is light, low alcohol (3-6%), moderately sour and goes well with local dishes.

🍬 Churchkhela. This is a Georgian dessert that is convenient to take with you on climbing. Churchkhela is made of cryspy walnuts or hazelnuts and thickened grape juice. Sounds weird, but it's actually very tasty. Churchkhela can be bought at bazaars or ordered in restaurants for tea.

13/02/2023

5 reasons to climb Mount Kazbek in 2023

✅️ With its height of 5033 m, Kazbek is the second highest volcano in Europe after Elbrus. This is the easternmost five-thousander of the Caucasus mountain range. From the top of Kazbek you can see Elbrus - the distance between the two giants is only 183 km.

✅️ The route from the Georgian side that we offer is available for beginners. It is rather simple technically. All you need to climb Mt. Kazbek is good physical shape and endurance.

✅️ Acquaintance with the culture, history, cuisine of Georgia will give you no less pleasure than climbing Mount Kazbek itself! Our tour includes a sightseeing tour of the historical center of Tbilisi and one day stay in the town of Mtskheta - one of the oldest towns in Georgia.

✅️ Citizens of most countries do not require a visa to visit Georgia. For those who need a visa, it is easy to apply for it online, without visiting the consulate. There is a good choice of international flights to/from Tbilisi.

✅️ We give a 15% discount to everyone who books a tour in February!

Learn more in Direct!

09/02/2023

"Elbrus did not let in"

Often you can hear from travelers that the mountain did not let pass someone. Elbrus is not an exception. Let's see what circumstances do not leave a chance for success.

1️⃣ Acute mountain sickness. Sometimes it is safer to descend or to stay at hut instead of doing a summit attempt.

2️⃣ Bad weather conditions. The weather is a factor that is not possible to influence. We have a reserve day on itinerary for the ascent. But if the weather deteriorated for several days, no one would take risks.

Every year, about 10% of tourists face one of the two factors. Some climbers come back to try their luck again, and then doing the top brings even more pleasure.

30/01/2023

Ice kingdom in the Jily-su valley.

Jily-Su is an area on the northern side of Elbrus. A peculiar tract with springs, waterfalls, rocks.

In summer, while climbing on the northern slope, this is one of the destinations to visit during acclimatization.

In winter, one of the valley's waterfalls turns into a real ice kingdom.

17/01/2023

On the summit day, the group wakes up early in the morning and after short preparations and breakfast sets out on the route.

During the ascent, one of the most beautiful sunrises in your life awaits you. You will enjoy it on the way to the top of the mountain at the altitude of around 5100 metres.

08/01/2023

The New Year celebration at the top of Elbrus - is it realistic?

First of all, reaching the top of Elbrus in winter is already a feat. Extremely low temperatures, icy slopes and strong winds make winter ascent a dangerous and difficult test even for experienced mountaineers.

In addition, it is quite difficult to reach the top exactly at midnight. Given that normally climbers reach the summit of Elbrus between 7 a.m. and 2 p.m.

But there are people who participate in races on January 1, and there are people who attempt the slopes of Elbrus on the first day of the New Year. Not by the chiming clock, but a little later, when it dawn.

There are not so many chances to reach the top, but this is not the main thing about this adventure. To get white frost on cheeks and eyelashes, to compete with the wind, to freeze, to show courage and resistance - these are good reasons why to climb Mt. Elbrus in winter.

Then you can warm your legs in a bathhouse and drink raspberry tea at a local cafe. In this contrast is the whole charm of winter ascents to Elbrus.

01/01/2023

Climbing Mt. Elbrus in winter

The first summiting of Elbrus in winter was done by the two Soviet climbers in January 1934.

They were on duty at a meteorological station at an altitude of 4,250 meters, and both dreamed of climbing to the top in winter since they were schoolboys.

The main difficulty of winter climbing is low temperature (up to -41 degrees Celsius) and the icy slopes polished by the wind starting from 4000 m and higher to the very top.

Sharp crampons kept well on the slope almost to the Pastukhov rocks, but further the ice became so hard that even the very sharp teeth of the crampons did not hold securely. l
Hard ice caused many deaths during winter ascents.

After 9 hours of hiking, climbers did it to the top of Elbrus.

In winter, clean air allows you to see the blue strip of the Black Sea and mountains of Turkey on the opposite shore.

Since then, every year climbers attempt the winter peaks of Elbrus.

We arrange winter ascents for private groups only. Our scheduled departures finish in November.

Would you dare to climb Mt. Elbrus in winter? 😉

24/12/2022

Dear mountain lovers, we wish you a Merry Christmas 🎅🌲 full of joy, inspiration, adventures!

How will you spend your holidays?

14/12/2022

Athlete guides vs. psychologist guides

The athlete stands facing the sport and achievements, and the guide faces the person and his desires.

Athletes often measure everyone by themselves, but this is not acceptable in the work of a guide. We need to help participants overcome themselves. Everyone comes with different levels of preparation and mental attitude. A guide has to be sympathetic to the weaknesses that arise along the route.

Therefore, the guide is not only a professional athlete. This is a person who has empathy and feels for each member in the group.

An experienced guide on Elbrus is a person who loves the Caucasus and knows the area well. He will easily determine when the weather starts to change or see when a participant needs to be cheered up.

The work of a guide is about patience, responsibility, leadership, and support. These are the people we work with.

06/12/2022

🏔 Why do people climb mountains?

On the one hand, this question is simple, on the other, it is complex. Anyone who has ever been in the mountains will probably not ask why to go there.

When you see the beauty of the mountains, their greatness, you feel like a small grain of sand. But at the same time you feel like a significant and a special person, because you are alone in all this vast expanse.

Mountains are also about extreme and opportunity to prove oneself, to fight with the natural elements, to overcome everyday difficulties. This is about plenty of different thrills and aesthetic pleasure from viewing the Earth face to face from the top of a mountain.

What is your reason to climb mountains?

28/11/2022

🏔Today we want to share with you the story of Ricardo Kaljouw who climbed Mt. Elbrus with us in 2017.
⠀
Rico is on his way to became the first person from the BeNeLux (Belgium, Netherlands & Luxembourg) to successful summit the seven volcanic summits. He recently summited Mount Giluwe and will go to Pico de Orizaba in January followed by Ojos del Salado in February 2023.
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We asked Ricardo some questions about his attitude to mountaineering and here is what he replied:
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❔Why do you love mountaineering?
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Mountaineering for me is a sport that is filled with excitement as it makes you push yourself further than you could think possible, and this is performed while being in the most beautiful place on the planet " the mountains"
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❔How does it enrich your life?
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The sport keeps me in psychical shape but also and just as important in a good mental shape. Escaping the city life, climbing mountains on different continents while being introduces to other cultures and being in touch with likewise people is something that I treasure in the sport.
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❔How did you feel climbing with our company?
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Elbrus 360 was very professional and helpful during my expedition in 2017 and I think that was one of the pillars beside my own
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❔What would you recommend to people who are planning their trip to Elbrus?
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I think people think of climbing Elbrus in summer need to be aware that it can be very cold on the summit night and be prepared psychically and mentally as you would enjoy more the expedition.
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📝If you want we to share your story of climbing Elbrus, tag us below your post or contact us in Direct!
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24/11/2022

RESERVATIONS: reservation will be confirmed once the passenger:

A) Sends the reservation form dully filled in. Each person participating in the trip has to fill in the form and provide as much information as possible. The Company must be immediately informed on any changes in the information the passenger has provided. The passenger can send the reservation form by e-mail. 

B) Makes a downpayment of 30% by wire or with a credit card.

RESERVATION CONFIRMATION: once points A and B hereinbefore are fulfilled, the Company shall forward confirmation of the reservation to the passenger via e-mail. A week prior to the trip, the Company shall send to the passenger's e-mail information about the hotel, contact telephone numbers, list of participants and related data.

PAYMENT OF THE BALANCE DUE: the balance due must be paid on the 1st day of the trip in cash. Please take note that the painted or worn out banknotes are not accepted. Please, prepare cash in advance.

RESERVATION CHANGES: if the passenger wishes to make any change to his reservation that has already been confirmed, the Company should be informed in writing, not later than 2 weeks before the tour goes. It is possible to change the dates or to cancell the tour and request refund. The deposit will be paid back with exception for bank fees.

08/05/2022

Mount Elbrus in 4 hours?

Do you think it's possible?🧐

Today at 6.30 Moscow time, a high-speed ascent to Elbrus from the Azau glade was launched ( 2350 m - 5642 m)

Race results:

🏆 among men - Evgeny Markov, 4:01.41 😱

🏆 among women - Anastasia Rubtsova, 4:30:28 😱

Can you imagine it?

📸 Roman Barabanov

22/04/2022

The active season of climbing Elbrus begins - let it be safe!

#эльбрус360

28/02/2022

CURRENT SITUATION

We receive many questions about the situation and if the tours will go.

We don't cancell the tours. There is still time ahead to wait, and probably the situation will allow us to run the climbing season on Elbrus.

At the moment there are no travel or any other restrictions in Russia.

We will keep you informed!

20/02/2022

Mountain shelter "Heart of Elbrus". South side of Elbrus➡️

Our guests are interested to know where they will live during the ascent. Today we want to show you the Heart of Elbrus mountain shelter, which is located at an altitude of 3750 m 👇🏼

Our tour starts in the dining room. Up to 70 people can be here at the same time. Cozy sofas and tables, chandeliers, TV-sets, cutlery... It's hard to believe that you are in a mountain shelter at an altitude of 3750 m!

The chefs will be happy to offer you a vegetarian, vegan, halal menu. 🥘
For cooking, bottled water is used, which is brought from the valley. Guests always have access to boiling water to fill their thermoses.

There is an area where you can take off your outerwear, change shoes, leave crampons, poles and ice axes🧳

👣We go up to the second floor... There are living rooms here. On the second floor there are eight-bed rooms of the Standard category. There is heating, you can charge mobile devices, there are pillows and blankets. Bed linen is available for an additional charge. Normally, our guests use their own sleeping bags. The toilet is outside.

In summer you can see the peaks of the Main Caucasian Range from this window, in winter - only snow.

👣 We go up to the third floor ... There are flushing toilets and sinks. On the third floor there are four rooms of category Comfort. Each room has four beds.

The mountain shelter the Heart of Elbrus is located just next to the upper station of the ski lift. So you don't have to carry your backpack far. Electricity is available around the clock. Don't be afraid of so much snow, it is winter now🥶😂

📸

What else to tell about accommodation? 🙋🏽‍♀️ 🙋🏽‍♂️

07/02/2022

Let's start a series of posts about the current directions of climbing Elbrus: prices, programs 📝

📌So, Climbing Elbrus, southern route, 8️⃣ days.

8 days is the minimum number of days required for a successful ascent.

Cost: €850
Program:

Day 1️⃣ Arrival at the Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV) before 2 p.m. There are several domestic flights from Moscow and St. Petersburg and international flights arriving from Istanbul and Dubai. Our guide will be awaiting you outside the arrival hall. Once everyone has arrived, the bus leaves the airport heading to the town of Terskol. The drive will take 3 - 3.5 hours. Upon arrival at the hotel you will have some free time for resting and taking a shower, then dinner and first briefing with the guide.

Day 2️⃣ After breakfast, the group will go for its first acclimatization day. Today you'll ascend the peak Terskol (3100 m) or Mt. Cheget (3100 m), this depends on weather conditions. The hike will take 4-5 hours. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 3️⃣ Today the group will ascend to the mountain hut at 3800 m. You can leave your urban clothes at the hotel and take with you only necessary climbing equipment. Ascending with a cable car will take around 1 hour. After having tea and coffee with sandwiches and sweets at the hut we put on mountain boots and crampons and go higher - up to 4300 m. Overnight at hut.

Day 4️⃣ Acclimatization hike up to Pastukhov rocks (4800 m). This will take around 6 hours in total. Overnight at hut.

Day 5️⃣ Day of rest. There will be no hikes on this day, just a short snow- and ice course not far from the hut.

Day 6️⃣ Summit day. After early breakfast at 2 a.m. the group will be picked up by a snow-cat and taken up to 4800 m or even higher. The further way to the summit takes on average 4-6 hours. Overnight at hut. It is possible to descend to the hotel, if the group comes back from the summit early, but this will cause extra expenditure for accommodation and meals at the hotel, because this night is already paid for the hut.
➡️➡️➡️

02/02/2022

It's December! 💪🏼

Photos from the last climb of Elbrus in 2021 from 📸 talented 🙏

Successfully climbing the mountain in not the most popular month for this! 😅

incredible!🚀

10/01/2022

31/12/2021

New Year is the time for the fulfillment of all desires, even the most daring ones!🔝

Make a dream - Climbing Elbrus in 2022! And we will help you implement it!
And you don't even have to behave well for that! 🎅 😬

We wish you a Happy New Year! May the new year bring joy, good mood and opportunities!

📸 of incredibly talented

17/12/2021

They did it! 📈

On the summit of Elbrus in winter conditions! 🥶

Yesterday on the 16th December at 11 o'clock were on the top of Elbrus together with our guide !

It was 6 out of 7 peaks for them!⭐️

Congratulations guys!🙏

03/11/2021

Black Friday all November! Is this possible ?!

Yes, we want to make you happy! Discounts will be available ALL NOVEMBER! So, enjoy 20% off until November 30 when booking any tour to Elbrus! 🏔

Hurry, write to Direct, reserve a date and go to your dream! 🏆📈

Fly fox keeps the calendar! 🦊😅

📸😜

#эльбрус360

25/09/2021

Dear friends,

A tragedy has occurred on Elbrus. One of the groups was caught by stormy weather and requested help. The rescue operation continued until early in the morning. 14 people were rescued, but 5 died from hypothermia. All participants were Russians.

We receive condolences and questions from people from different countries. Fortunately, this happend not to our group. Our clients also had a summit attempt that day but turned back because of the worsening weather.

But everyone, absolutely everyone who is related to Elbrus, is deeply shocked by what happened. We all mourn for the lost. I am sure that these days all tour operators arranging expeditions on Mount Elbrus are thinking about how the tragedy could have been prevented.

Many of those who work on Elbrus have something to strive for: both in terms of means of connection, and in terms of the number of guides per group, and in terms of working with clients at the stage of booking and finding out their health status. This sacrifice should not be in vain!

We thank everyone for support and participation!

Anastasia Vasiliskova

05/08/2021

Day 2 . Summitting of a Romania group.

After breakfast, the group will go for its first acclimatization day.

Today you'll ascend the peak Terskol (3100 m) or Mt. Cheget (3100 m), this depends on weather conditions. The hike will take 4-5 hours. Overnight at the hotel.

27/07/2021

20% discount for tours going in 2022.

For groups of 3 and more people the discount rises up to 25%!

This offer is valid only on July 30 and 31. (but you can request us in advance)

Only €300 deposit is required for reservation. The reservation is flexible, you can change the dates in future when necessary.

The arranges Elbrus climbing expeditions since 2010. We have completed over 700 successful ascents.

Our guides speak English.

We provide comfortable accommodation and ultimate safety during the climb.

Reserve your Elbrus tour with a maximal discount by contacting us in Direct or on Whatsapp +79269247948

21/07/2021

Do you plan everything in advance?

2020 showed us that things can go unpredictable, but we are still conquering the peaks!

How do you like the idea of bringing back old habits?

Shall we have a big sale for next year's tours?

Who votes FOR, put + in the comments and we will be above all the circumstances!

05/07/2021

Safety in the mountains depends primarily on the discipline and ability to listen to each of the group members.

A well-known Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner told very accurately on this matter.

“If I managed to climb all 14 eight-thousanders and stay alive, it’s because I always knew when to stop; I felt when the risk was too great. I was defeated, retreated in 11 Himalayan expeditions, and therefore I’m alive. Not the mountains are to blame for the human tragedies that occur in them. "

Our tours include a reserve day for a second attempt to climb the summit in case of bad weather.

But as much as you would like to climb to the top, your safety is important to us.

19/06/2021

On June 28, 8 new countries are added to the list of countries with which Russia has resumed air traffic:
🇨🇾 Cyprus
🇮🇹 Italy
🇮🇪 Ireland
🇪🇭 Jordan
🇧🇬 Bulgaria
🇧🇪 Belgium
🇲🇰 North Macedonia
🇺🇸 USA

Other countries on the list are:
✔ UAE
✔ Germany
✔ Great Britain
✔ Switzerland
✔ India
✔ Japan
✔ Austria
✔ Iceland
✔ Serbia
✔ Croatia
✔ Montenegro
✔ Portugal
✔ Albania
✔ Malta
✔ Egypt
✔ Greece
✔ Hungary
✔ Turkey
✔ Finland
✔ Mexico
✔ Armenia
✔ Azerbaijan
✔ Vietnam
✔ Maldives
✔ Tanzania
✔ Kazakhstan
✔ Belarus
✔ Kyrgyzstan
✔ South Korea
✔ Czech Republic
✔ Cuba
✔ Qatar
✔ Seychelles
✔ Singapore
✔ Ethiopia
✔ Venezuela
✔ Syria
✔ Tajikistan
✔ Uzbekistan
✔ Sri Lanka
✔ Saudi Arabia
✔ Mauritius
✔ Morocco
✔ Luxembourg
✔ Lebanon

13/06/2021

Are you dreaming on climbing the highest peak of Europe? We will be glad to help you with that.

Get discount of 5% if you are two climbers and 7% discount if you are the three!

Send your request here or on WhatsApp 📞 +79269247948

Do you have questions? We will be glad to answer! ⬇️

08/06/2021

Are you still thinking if the Traverse route is a right choice for you?

Check the reviews of those who have already gone this way (swipe the pictures).

In the meantime, we will answer a few questions:

❓This is going to be my first ascent, would a traverse route be a right choice for me? - Yes, if you go up from the south side and go down from the north.

❓If I go up from the north side, will someone help me to carry my things? - You have to take with you the most important things on the summit day. Other belongings will be brought down by porters and delivered to your hotel on the opposite side.

❓Is there a reserve day for the ascent? - Yes, there is a reserve day for bad weather.

05/06/2021

TRAVERSE ROUTE 10 days

Day 1. Arrival at the Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV) before 2 p.m. There are several domestic flights from Moscow and St. Petersburg and international flights arriving from Istanbul and Dubai. Our guide will be awaiting you outside the arrival hall. Once everyone has arrived, the bus leaves the airport heading to the town of Terskol. The drive will take 3 - 3.5 hours. Upon arrival at the hotel you will have some free time for resting and taking a shower, then dinner and first briefing with the guide.

Day 2. After breakfast, the group will go for its first acclimatisation day. Today you'll ascend the peak Terskol (3100 m). The hike will take in total 4-5 hours. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 3. Acclimatization hike up to Mt. Cheget (3100 m). The hike will take 4-5 hours. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 4. Transfer to Azau lift station on Mount Elbrus which will take around 10 minutes. The ascent up to Mir station (3500m). Acclimatisation hike up to 4100m. Descent to hotel. Since this is the last day before moving to the hut at 3800 m, after coming back to the hotel, you will visit our rental shop to hire climbing gear. The guide will assist you by choosing the right size. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 5. Today the group will ascend to the mountain hut at 3800 m. You can leave your urban clothes at the hotel and take with you only necessary climbing equipment. Ascending with a cable car will take around 1 hour. After having tea and coffee with sandwiches and sweets at the hut, we put on mountain boots and crampons and go higher - up to 4300 m. Overnight at hut.

Day 6. Acclimatization hike up to Pastukhov rocks (4800 m). This will take around 6 hours in total. Overnight at hut.

Day 7. Day of rest. Today there will be no hikes, only snow - and ice course near the camp. The guide will show you how to use an ice axe when you are sliding down the slope. Every participant will be trained in the technique of stopping the slide with an ice-axe. Overnight at the hut.

03/06/2021

Света, привет! 2 slopes within one climb!

Have you dreamed of climbing Elbrus for a long time?

The last year has made it clear to us that we should not postpone until tomorrow the peaks that could be climbed today!

And if you have already decided to climb to the top of Elbrus, then why not see 2 sides at once?

For example, go up from the north and go down from the south, or vice versa?

How do you like this idea?

26/05/2021

How do you like the weather today?

Our at camp at 3800m on Elbrus north side

25/05/2021

Visa-free entry to Russia from 29/05 to 02/07

Good news for football fans and just climbers!

Russia hosts several football games of UEFA EURO 2020. Travel restrictions are over for this period of time! Football supporters from all over the world are welcomed. All you have to do is to get a negative PCR test, Fan ID and a ticket for one of the following matches taking place in St.-Petersburg:

Belgium - Russia, June 12, 22:00
Poland - Slovakia, June 14, 19:00
Finland - Russia, June 16, 16:00
Sweden - Slovakia, June 18, 16:00
Finland - Belgium, June 21, 22:00
Sweden - Poland, June 23, 19:00
Quarter-final, July 02, 19:00

The Fan ID entitles you to cross the Russian border and travel inside the country wherever you want to. This means that you can join any of our tours from 29th of May to 2nd of July without having to get a visa.

More information here:
https://www.fan-id.ru/

Request us in Direct for the tours available!

18/05/2021

Climber's library

What do people love most since childhood? Of course stories!

Today we will tell you about 2 books of memoirs.

📕One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the Birth of Light and Fast Alpinism
Автор Джон Портер

«The wall was the ambition, the style became the obsession»

In the autumn of 1982, a single stone fell from high on the south face of Annapurna and struck Alex MacIntyre on the head, killing him instantly and robbing the climbing world of one of its greatest talents.

Although only 28 years old, Alex was already one of the leading figures of British mountaineering's most successful era. His ascents included hard new routes on Himalayan giants like Dhaulagiri and Changabang and a glittering record of firsts in the Alps and Andes. Yet how Alex climbed was as important as what he climbed. He was a mountaineering prophet, sharing with a handful of contemporaries -- including his climbing partner Voytek Kurtyka -- the vision of a purer form of alpinism on the world's highest peaks.

📙Art of Freedom: The life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka
Bernadette McDonald

Voytek Kurtyka is one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of mountaineering that redefined Himalayan climbing in the 1970s and 1980s.

His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the 'night-naked' speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style first ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the 'climb of the century', his route on GIV with the Austrian Robert Schauer is - as of 2017 - unrepeated.

Art of Freedom is a profound and moving profile of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complex and reclusive mountaineers.