10/14/2015
Fiesta de la Mama Negra celebrated in November
The fiesta originated with the colonization of Latacunga by the Spanish for its rich mineral resources. The native inhabitants were forced to convert to Catholicism, but the conversion was not entirely pure, with the result that indigenous elements, such as a polytheistic belief in “spirits,” became part of the new religion.
General consensus is that the festival was established when the Cotopaxi volcano erupted in 1742 that threatened destruction of Latacunga . The locals petitioned the Virgin of Mercy, the patron of Cotopaxi, to spare Latacunga. When the town escaped the wrath of the volcano, an annual celebration was established in her honor.
Fiesta de la Mama Negra is a parade of many characters that starts with the "guacos", dressed in white, who cleanse the way of bad spirits, and make way for the "Angel of the Star", dressed in white and riding a white horse, he carries the star that represents the guidance and the light, and sings praises to the Lady of Mercy. Then comes the "Mama Negra", a prominent man of Latacunga's society, who is elected every year to preside the festivities. He dresses as a woman, with seven shawls of different colors; his face painted black, and carries a black doll called Balthazara (yes, like the black Magi). Then comes the "Moorish King", richly dressed with jewelry and ornaments, wearing a cape and the scepter, as the symbol of power, followed by the "Flag Bearer", carrying the wipala, or multicolored flag that precedes the "Captain", wearing an elegant military uniform with a high feathered hat, and who is responsible for the success of the party. There's a fluidity of movement that's in tune with the music of the brass bands, and each other; shamans, clowns and dancing groups clad in all kinds of colorful disguises follow. It's all good humored and the parade ends with a big celebration of drinking, dancing and feasting on food of the area. A favorite is a beverage made with hominy, corn flour and fruit juice, and sweetened with brown sugar, called champus, and restaurateurs feature Latacunga’s most famous contribution to Ecuadorian cuisine, chugchucaras: deep fried pork, pork rinds, popcorn potatoes, maize and plantain. Candy and wine containers are also tossed to the crowds. Ecuadorians love a good party and there's nothing like a fiesta to generate the right mood.