02/03/2015
With abalone season approching us in a few weeks I thought I would post this write on trophy abalone diving tips. Some good tips for you newer divers just getting into the sport or the old salty vet that wants to steop up there game for that elusive trop[hy abalone.
Trophy Abalone Diving by Eric Anderson and Matt Mattison
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Have you been searching for a ten inch abalone and haven't found one? Our goal in this article is to change that and assist you on your quest for the elusive trophy abalone. We will address equipment needed, diving ethics, and why we trophy hunt. Our article will also promote safe and responsible diving. We are two very successful trophy abalone divers that believe our methods of diving for trophy abalone will help you on your hunt for the giant red abalone.
What is Trophy Abalone Diving?
Trophy Abalone Diving is an extreme sport without spectators, and if performed properly with the correct equipment, adds a new dimension for the abalone diver. For this article we will use a 10 inch benchmark as a trophy. Even though trophy divers use specialized gauges, they are required by law to have a CA fishing license, an abalone punch card, a legal abalone iron, and a 7 inch abalone gauge in their immediate possession. These regulations are addressed in the CDFG Ocean Sport Fishing Regulations booklet or online.
Why dive for trophy size abalone?
An 8 inch abalone is probably 10-12 years old and may have 25 years or more to live. A 10 inch abalone is probably 25-30 years old and in most cases is at the end of it’s life cycle. Normally, egg and s***m counts are dwindling as the abalone reach trophy size, therefore seeking the less productive abalone is less harmful to the specie. Of course the other benefit of larger abalone is the size of the meat. The meat of one large abalone may feed six to eight people, whereas a 7 inch abalone will feed two. Also, there is nothing more beautiful than a trophy shell. Most trophy shells are blemished from years of fighting boring clams, sponge, Cabezon, crabs, etc. To us, this adds character to the trophy shell.
What equipment is necessary for Trophy Abalone Diving?
Other than the standard equipment used for abalone diving, the trophy hunter should have the following equipment: 1. Diver's float line (float lines are sold in different lengths. They should be brightly colored to be easy to locate if the diver loses sight of the line.
2. Ten inch gauge or larger depending on your goals. 3. Flashlight (small flashlights are much easier to handle than large lights) 4. Extra abalone iron ( keep on float or within easy access if needed; some areas you may need a longer abalone iron, remember the iron must be less than 36 inches)
Where are Trophy Abalone Found?
Trophy Abalone are found from the shallow tidal waters to depths of 50 feet. We know many trophy divers that dive shallow and deep. Surprisingly, many of the 10 inch trophies “hogs” are found by rock pickers during minus tides. So, diving deep isn't a necessity when searching for the trophy in many areas. Try diving the area beyond where the rock pickers go and just inside where most of the divers go. Diving south of a river has been productive for many trophy hunters. Many of the large trophy abalone have been located on the south side; this doesn't mean that north side should be avoided. Trophies have come from the north side too. Many trophy abalone like large boulders, so look for underwater terrain with big boulders. The leeward side of a rock offers more protection for the abalone, so look there, and always look upside down in holes and crevices. Check dark caves too; many trophies have been found there. Abalone like a good source of food so watch where the kelp settles and dive there. Also, on calm days try diving those north west facing areas that are normally blown out by the swell. Most of the time it will not pay off but once in awhile it does. Minus tides are not the easiest to dive as the kelp forest is low in the water and it is harder to work the shallow bottom. We prefer a medium tide. A few extra feet of depth should not be a problem to a dedicated trophy diver. Trophies are normally found in areas void of juvenile abalone. If you see many smaller abalone you most likely will not found a trophy. Many trophy abalone are found in murky water, so don't avoid areas with poor visibility. Get away from the crowds, dive areas that do not get a lot of pressure.
When to dive?
Our number one rule on when to dive is this, DIVE IN SAFE CONDITIONS! Diving safe is the only way to dive. Diving an area that you haven't dove can be dangerous. We all know the WEB provides us with many forecasts on ocean conditions. The internet is an important tool for us, however, one needs to see for themselves the dive area to truly get a feel on diving conditions. Never dive on border-line conditions and never be afraid to abort a dive.
A Good dive partner?
A good dive partners are sometimes hard to find. Try to find partners with the same goals as you. And, try to find a partner that dives with you and not on you. A good dive partner is a safe diver that will be there to help if problems arise. A good dive partner will not divulge your secret trophy areas to anyone. This is important because if you take an outsider to your trophy grounds it will no longer be your trophy grounds. The promises made to you will soon be broken and your "trophy areas" will soon be cleaned of the big ones. We have seen this happen numerous times. We like to use an old World War II saying. "Loose Lips Sink Ships"
How to dive for trophies?
Attach your abalone iron to the end of your float line and carry your iron in your hand. Carry your trophy gauge in the other hand and your flashlight on a free wrist. Descend to your hunting area and begin your quest. When you think you have a trophy, measure your prey with your ten inch gauge. If it clicks a trophy measure it again to make sure. Slip your iron under the abalone and pry. If unable to get the abalone off on your initial breath leave your iron beside the abalone and go for air. You have marked your spot with your iron attached to the float line so the next dive will put you right on the abalone. Sometimes it may take ten dives to get the trophy off the rock. This is why the float line is so valuable to the diver. To be successful in your trophy hunt you must spend time looking for the big ones. We spend two, three, and four hours on a dive. Keep looking, keep looking, and keep looking.
What hurts the sport of trophy diving?
"High Grading" is very damaging to our sport. One thing we want to address and stress to all divers searching for the trophy abalone is "Do Not High Grade!" It taints the sport and cheats you out of the true satisfaction and reward of the hunt. What is HIGH GRADING ? High-grading abalone is when legal-sized abalone are extracted from their crevices or detached from their substrate but then later returned in favor of larger abalone. This is not legal or sporting and the law prohibits this due to concerns for the health of the abalone. Abalone are hemophiliacs and can be difficult to dislodge from their protective crevices or substrate. Any cuts or damage they sustain while being detached by the ab iron can cause them to bleed to death. For this reason, a legal-sized abalone detached is required to be retained by the person who detaches it. In addition, no undersized abalone may be retained in any person's possession or under his control. Undersized abalone must be replaced immediately to the same surface of the rock from which detached (California Code of Regulations Title 14, Section 29.15[d]).
Words to remember!
These words are worth remembering. To be successful a trophy diver you must possess Dedication, Motivation, Location and a lot of luck..
Written by
Eric Anderson http://sites.google.com/site/abaloneten/tendivers
Matt Mattison http://norcalunderwaterhunters.com/forum/index.php
