27/02/2025
I still remember the first time I stood in the courtyard of the Kumari Ghar in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square. The air felt heavy with history. This is where the living goddess, or Kumari, resides—a young girl believed to embody the goddess Taleju. She is chosen through an ancient and incredibly detailed process from the Newar community. The selection is based on physical perfection and spiritual qualities, and once chosen, she leaves her family to take on this sacred role until she reaches puberty.
What struck me most was how quietly powerful her presence felt. She rarely speaks or interacts with visitors directly, but her blessing is believed to bring protection and good fortune. She sometimes appears at a window to silently bless those gathered below. It is a brief but extraordinary moment. The best chance to see her more fully is during the Indra Jatra festival, which takes place every September. During this festival, the Kumari is carried through the city in an ornate chariot.
When visiting the Kumari, it is essential to approach the experience with a sense of respect and openness. The courtyard of the Kumari Ghar is open to the public, and while you may not always see her, the space itself is worth a visit. If she does appear, photography is not allowed, and visitors are expected to remain silent. It is a small gesture of respect for a tradition that means so much to the local community.
And yes, meeting a former Kumari during your visit to Nepal is possible—an experience as profound as it is rare. These young girls, once revered as living goddesses, eventually return to the rhythms of everyday life, stepping out of divinity and into the ordinary. A thoughtful meeting, arranged through those who share close ties with their world, offers a deeply moving glimpse into this transition. Listening to their stories firsthand—of worship, seclusion, and rediscovering a life beyond the sacred—can be a soulful encounter, one that lingers long after the conversation ends.
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