02/05/2024
One of the great birding days of my life. Today, May 2, 2024. In the Amazon.
I’ve been neglectful in reporting our trip on the Dorinha out of Manaus, Brazil. We arrived on Friday and boarded our ship on Saturday afternoon. We decided to take an 8 hour fast boat ride and meet the Dorinha near the small village of Beruri in Amazonas. She left the day prior and took 24 hours to get there. Why? So that we could explore the Rio Purus, an area rarely seen by scientists, much less travelers.
This morning it was pouring rain and our wake-up song was ‘Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head’, so we took our time getting ready. Finally, the rain let up and we jumped on the canoes to head out into these seasonally flooded rivers. Our mission was to find a rookery of the Agami Heron. If you don’t know, the Agami is one of the most beautiful of the heron family, large, shades of blues and deep red with a ‘silvery spray of lacy neck plumes.’ It fishes with its long dagger-like bill. The bird is quiet, often seen singly or maybe in pairs along the river’s edge, from Central America and south.
I’ve seen rookeries around Texas, most famous on High Island in the spring, where a few hundred herons roost, a mixed species group like Snowy, Great, Louisiana, and Reddish egrets all have their nests, and are busy chattering away. I didn’t expect anything like that, so I was surprised by the numbers of Agami we saw this morning.
Only about 15 minutes from where the Dorinha was parked for the night, we went around a bend and started to see the beautiful and elegant birds. Dozens, no, hundreds of Agami Herons flying around. They build simple stick nests just feet above the water line, hardly look like they could take their weight much less their eggs or young. Our arrival stirred things up and they were squawking and circling, doing take offs and landings. We could hear them chattering, bill snapping or clacking, breathing hard, squawking. They were all around us. They just kept coming and going. We paddled the canoes around for 30 minutes or more. They seemed to get used to us being there and settled down.
When I thought it couldn’t get any better, it did. We looked behind us and saw several Giant River Otters swimming towards us. They dive and come up, barking as they go, probably looking to see if they might get heron eggs for lunch.