Volya

05/09/2022

Chutnify
The South Indian food here packs a punch.
What's this place all about.
Chutnify’s façade may be unassuming (it’s tucked on a quiet residential street in Príncipe Real), but don’t let that fool you—the South Indian food here packs a punch. With two popular locations in Berlin, the restaurant has been able to drum up steady crowds with its trendy décor and tantalizing cooking.
Why should we come here, and who else will we find?
Folks seeking a break from Portuguese and European food find refuge here; the food—flavorful with complex spices and (often) a kick—serves as a jumper cable to dulled palettes. As such, you’ll find a mix of diners, all here because they've done their research.
What do they have for drinks?
Cocktails are inspired by Indian cooking; take, for instance, the the Kachumber Cooler (Bombay Sapphire, coriander, chili, and cucumber) and the Oh Calcutta (dark rum, curry powder, egg white, lemon, and mango).
That brings us quite nicely to the food. What should we order?
It was difficult to find South Indian food in Portugal before Chutnify came along with its popular dosas, curries, and stews. The menu toes the line between traditional and modern; if you're not sure what to order, opt for the tasting menu. Don’t miss the mango cardamom mousse for dessert.
How's the service?
Things run smoothly, quickly, and easily at this casual restaurant, where servers are happy to help guide you through the menu.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
Laid-back atmosphere, fair prices, and no-frills presentation make Chutnify ideal for lunch or dinner.

05/09/2022

A Cevicheria
Ceviche and pisco on trendy Principe Real.
Start us off with an overview.
This tiny restaurant on trendy Principe Real stops pedestrians in their tracks when they see the giant Instagram-famous Octopus sculpture dangling above the dining room like a nautical chandelier. The counter seating accounts for nearly half the restaurant, and behind it the fish-on-ice setup recalls a (very sleek) seafood market.
What should we know before we head here?
This popular spot doesn’t take reservations, but if you’re stuck with a wait—and if you come after 7 p.m., you likely will be—the walk-up bar window facing the sidewalk has curb appeal for pre-dinner cocktails and mingling.
What do they have for drinks?
A devoted Peruvian restaurant, A Cevicheria worships at the altar of pisco, and it would be sacrilegious to start a meal with anything other than the house pisco sour. For round two, a limited menu of beer, wine, and whiskey is available.
So on to the food—tell us about it.
Given its name, it’s no surprise that ceviche is the star of the menu at chef Kiko Martin’s restaurant. But this is elevated ceviche, not your standard vacation-resort ceviche. There are approximately four to choose from, from the ceviche puro, made with seasonal white fish, sweet potato, and seaweed, to salmon ceviche with mango and orange. Save room for some of the non-ceviche dishes, like the mini surf-and-turf sandwich stuffed with fatty pork belly and shrimp steak.
What's the service like?
A Cevicheria likes a quick turn, so don’t expect your server to linger over small talk. The speedy service makes it easy to place orders as you go instead of all upfront, though.
Who should we bring with us?
Come for your first or last night in Portugal, or with a small group of friends—a night here promises to be lively and memorable. The dining room's small size makes it best for small parties—anything over four gets tight.

30/08/2022

Rosewood Phuket
Rosewood's first wellness resort will single-handedly turn backpacker haven Phuket into a serious luxury destination among discerning travelers.
What was it like arriving at the hotel?
From the drive-up alone, you know this place is special. Lots of blond wood and large flagstones. The design is breezy and the whole resort is spaced out; free standing bungalows go up and down the hillside, while pools, the spa, and bars and restaurants are scattered throughout. The set up lets the property breathe; you never feel like you're sharing space with many others, even when the resort is full. And the Andaman Sea is visible from everywhere.
Lovely! How was your room?
Rooms are all stand-alone bungalows, and designed with privacy in mind. Terraces have sofas and plunge pools, while the decor is breezy and modern: lots of white on white, with cool touches like make-your-own cocktail bars. Outdoor bathrooms were a lot of fun.
Any notable amenities to tell us about?
Wifi is free and fast. Mini-bar was stocked with boutique brands of colas, spirits, and snacks, which made the resort feel on-trend.
If you had to award a trophy to a member of the staff, who would it be?
Eve! My masseuse at the wellness center. She. Was. Magical. I was unable to talk or interact with others (in a great way) for around 30 minutes after my singing bowl massage with her, which lasted one hour. I felt utterly reset. Do yourself a favor, demand that she be your masseuse. You will not be disappointed. After your first treatment with her, you'll want to book another for each subsequent day that you stay.
Anything special to tell us about at the resort?
Ocean access: excellent. The resort is on the Andaman Sea. Childcare: There are playgrounds and child facilities available throughout the pool, and spa, and probably why you are here. Ayurvedic treatments and on-site wellness specialists make the spa so much more than a sauna with facial and massage rooms. And hit the restaurant for some of the tastiest fresh Thai fish and chicken dishes you'll ever have.
So, worth it?
The place is gorgeous and ground-breaking for Phuket. Mark my words, Rosewood will make travelers start regarding Phuket as a tasteful destination, to tack on as the beach break during trips to Bangkok or Singapore. Doesn't hurt, either, that flights come in direct from Dubai, so you don't need to make that one more hop once in the hub city to get here, or fly back to Bangkok to get home. It's a special property and a wise way to unwind after the chaos of Bangkok.

28/08/2022

Conrad Washington, DC
A modern take on D.C.'s upscale hotel scene.
Why did this hotel catch your attention?
Just blocks from The White House, in the heart of downtown, the hotel anchors the recently-created CityCenterDC mixed-use development, a five-block complex that features residential and commercial spaces and dozens of shopping and dining options. Once up in the sleek hotel tower, though, you’ll feel far away from it all—though the 10-floor building, designed by Pritzker Prize Laureates Herzog & de Meuron (of London's The Tate Modern and Beijing's Bird's Nest stadium fame), is flooded with natural light and downtown views at every turn, thanks to an all-glass exterior. The lobby, check-in and main dining and lounging spaces are located on the third floor, adding to the above-the-fray feel.
What's the backstory?
Opened in 2019, the hotel is the flagship property for the Conrad brand, and Hilton’s first luxury offering in the nation’s capital. The hotel itself is owned by an array of real estate companies and investors, chief among them the Qatari royal family—which means if the owners are in town, expect to find plenty of men in black and strict security measures.
Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book?
While Conrad is one of Hilton’s luxury brands, the overall ethos of the collection tends towards the unfussy and uncluttered, and this flagship is definitely right in line with that vibe. Interiors firm Rottet Studio has created 360 bright, airy rooms with a streamlined contemporary décor of modular furnishings and a muted color palette of whites, grays, and light woods; in most, the unadorned, white linen-topped beds take center stages. Suites have extras like low-slung couches and fireplaces, and all rooms have marble bathrooms with double vanities, walk-in showers, and Shanghai Tang bath amenities, but overall, the feel is pretty simple. (In what seems to be a Conrad standard, the hotel doesn’t do evening turn-down, so you won’t even find any extra touches to the bedside table come bedtime.) Rooms to get are the Premium Corner King, which have a wraparound wall of windows.
Is there a charge for Wi-Fi?
Wi-fi is free in the rooms and public areas; faster Premium service comes with fee.
Drinking and dining—what are we looking at?
Serving three meals a day in a buzzing-yet-comfortable setting, signature restaurant Estuary is overseen by James Beard Award recipients and “Top Chef” finalists, Bryan and Michael Voltaggio—Maryland natives who celebrate their state’s bounty in a farm- and seafood-forward menu that draws both locals and hotel guests. (Don’t miss the brunch.) Just off the lobby atrium, the circular Estuary Bar is an elegant spot drinks, though the real nighttime star is the Summit rooftop bar and lounge, serving libations and light bites with its 360-degree city views—a must come sunset. There are also a couple of furnished outdoor terraces and cozy nooks dotted around the main atrium to which you can order something from the lobby bar.
How was the service?
Front desk service was efficient if a bit corporate, while the staff in the restaurant had more personality and a warmer touch.
What type of travelers will you find here?
The extensive ballroom and meeting facilities make it popular with corporate, group, and event clients, while the location makes for a good hub for visiting officials and dignitaries, and locals looking for a discreet spot for meetings or power lunches. I didn't spy many families, though the room sizes can comfortably accommodate kids.
What about the neighborhood? What else is here?
The location in CityCenterDC means there's a ton of shopping and dining within walking distance, along with each access to major monuments and Metro lines. The setting, service, and value on privacy make this a solid luxury option in town—particularly for guests whose tastes tend towards the more modern and unfussy, who might prefer this over the city's more traditionally old school five-star options.
Any other hotel features worth noting?
Take note of the hotels contemporary art collection, which has been curated by consulting firm Tatar Art Projects and pays homage to the city’s Washington Color School and other historic art movements. A first for Conrad, the 10th-floor Sakura Lounge—which can be accessed by guests of certain room categories, or via an additional fee—serves as an all-day retreat offering dedicated butler and concierge service, perks like free pressing and priority reservations for the rooftop, meeting spaces, and three chef-created meal presentations a day, plus all-day drinks and snacks. Be sure to try some of the lounge’s private reserve Japanese whiskeys or—if you’re here on a weekend—the afternoon tea. There's a decent gym with walls of windows, but no spa or wellness facilities.
Bottom line: Why should we choose the Conrad?
As one of the newer spots in town, the Conrad brings a modern sensibility to D.C's upscale hotel landscape, along with a convenient location, efficient service and destination dining. Depending on the season, prices can be very reasonable, too.

28/08/2022

Capitol Hill Hotel

27/08/2022

The Kitchen
A charmingly cluttered lunch mainstay that’s popular for its hearty, creative salads.
Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived.
Transitioning from the busy road that serves as the main artery between the city and the southern suburbs into The Kitchen’s eclectic, cluttered interior feels like a warm, reassuring embrace. It could be your eccentric grandma’s eat-in kitchen this local equivalent to London’s Ottolenghi, although more vintage or secondhand emporium than restaurant in appearance. Between an eclectic collection of kitchenware, crockery and cookbooks is a deli counter crammed with sandwich fillings, around 20 different salads and other daily specials. Since this place opened over a decade ago, Woodstock has become home to a growing number of trendy shopping precincts, serious art galleries, designer work spaces and studios and even apartment blocks. It’s smartened up without losing its graffiti-splashed gritty appeal.
What was the crowd like?
It draws a diverse crowd, from elegant women of the Southern Suburbs’ to hipsters who work in the area. Woodstock’s gradual gentrification means that design studios, ad agencies, art galleries, and furniture workshops have moved into the neighborhood, and about 30 percent of the customers eat there every day, according to owner Karen Dudley. When Michelle Obama stopped by for lunch in 2011, The Kitchen hit the headlines and tourists started queuing up. It hasn’t stopped since.
What should we be drinking?
Coffee, juices and mineral water.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
Order one of the ‘love sandwiches’ (named as such, because you pick whatever fillings you love the most from an overwhelming selection, from pestos to cheeses) as well as one of the 20 or more freshly made, original salads, which have earned The Kitchen the reputation of being the local equivalent to London’s Ottolenghi. It’s impossible to pick favorites, but every thing is garden fresh and exceedingly good value for money. You can add falafel with aubergine and humus, honey-roasted sausages or roasted chicken breast to a plate of three or five salads—newbies apparently go for five, regulars usually opt for three (perhaps knowing how generous the portions are). For breakfast, try the Turkish plate (poached eggs with labne, za’tar butter and aubergine) or the Appleteria (Karen’s homemade granola with Greek yogurt, grated apple, almonds, dates and honey), followed by a good coffee from Rosetta Roastery. Oh, have the almond croissant too.
And how did you find the staff?
Smiley, friendly, clearly loving what they do and all working together as a team. Owner and local resident Karen Dudley runs a successful careering business too, so she’s not always on the floor.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
What started out as a bigger kitchen for owner Karen Dudley’s successful catering company, grew organically into the hottest lunch spot in the most unlikely neighborhood—gritty Woodstock. Since November 2017, when the business expanded into a next-door shop, there are now plenty of tables for sit-down customers (and more space for Karen’s nostalgic clutter). The Kitchen has also become a sought-after venue for after-hours private dinner parties and events.

27/08/2022

Thali
Modern Indian tapas by a Cape Town star chef.Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived.
As you walk through the door, the fragrant smoke from the tandoori and charcoal ovens mingled with incense is a hit of Indian nostalgia. The old two-story Victorian house has been gutted inside to expose original brickwork and wooden floors, setting the scene for a feast of Indian flavors and evocative scents. Sari-bright splashes of color are evident in the details, like ornate tiles, beautiful lanterns and in-laid tables. It’s warm and intimate inside, star-lit and romantic outside in the small courtyard.
What was the crowd like?
Chatty, having a good time.
What should we be drinking?
Depending on how spicy and hot you like your food, you can follow the wine guidelines choosing a local gewürztraminer or Riesling for the hotter dishes. If you're not into wine, try the mango lassi, a potent G&T made with local gin or the signature Indian spiced chai.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
This is chef Liam Tomlin’s take on Indian tapas. It’s not traditional, but inspired by the regions and flavors of India. Thali, the Indian word for ‘tapas’, is usually served all together on a tray or platter. Here it’s served as a set menu for two of eight small sharing plates or bowls, progressing from mild to very spicy. The generous sides include the hot as hell house chilli sauce. Perfectly crisp and slightly charred poppadoms and potato and sweetcorn chaat with a curry leaf aioli kick off the feast, followed by a selection of vegetables and meats cooked in the tandoori oven. Particularly delicious is the tandoori cauliflower with cumin cauliflower puree and cashew and coconut salad. Tomlinson takes a bit of license adding fried fish tacos to the menu, with a Cape Malay flavored dressing, carrot puree and pickled carrots. The curries are the grand finale: smoky fragrant lamb curry, a mint and coriander butter chicken curry. Pescatarian, vegetarian and vegan menus are all excellent, too.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
Staff are accommodating, helpful, explain the menu well.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
This is another restaurant by the prolific Liam Tomlin, who also conceptualizes all the food for Singita’s safari lodges across Africa. Thali opened at the same time as Chefs Warehouse at Beau Constantia; both have been overnight success stories. Come for authentic Indian tapas, immortalised in a brand-new, beautifully photographed cookbook (one of several authored by Liam Tomlin).

27/08/2022

27/08/2022