Råph & Røll

26/06/2023

La Unión - Pasó de Yanashallash - Glaciar de Pastoruri | 74 km | +2.350 m

Walk away quietly in any direction and taste the freedom of the mountaineer. Camp out among the grasses and gentians of glacial meadows, in craggy garden nooks full of nature's darlings. Climb the mountains and get their good tidings, Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. As age comes on, one source of enjoyment after another is closed, but nature's sources never fail. - John Muir

I spend the night on the way to the Pastoruri glacier at the height of the Paso de Yanashallash at 4,700 metres. With my improvised cooker made from a tin can and Ron a Quemar, we have half-cooked pasta - a real 5-star meal after the altitude metres.

I set off at sunrise the next day - alone with the snow-covered peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.

I let the majestic peaks carry me through the thin air - until I notice a recurring clack. I stop. I notice that my rear rim is starting to crack. There is probably not a soul on the route to the glacier. No alternative - we have to go on. The rim holds.

Shortly before I reach the Pastoruri glacier, another obstacle: a herd of cows with 4 handsome black bulls block the narrow path that winds along the mountain range. After a muesli bar and a cigarette, I start throwing stones from higher rocks in the direction of the musclemen, I don't feel like hand-to-hand combat, I don't think my martial arts skills are trained enough for that.

The bulls give way & with dusk I reach the glacier, which - before the tourist buses arrive the next morning - I have all to myself.

22/06/2023

Huancayo - Junin - Cerro de Pasco | 270 km | +2.600 m

Between thunder and sun
Humans opening nature’s veins
For society’s fun

Flamingos enjoying the lagoon’s breeze
I roll and roll
And in the night together with the sheep I freeze

18/06/2023

Glances.

Alone on the bike, one's own protective zone is always quite fragile. While the earth flows under my tyres, my own head is the daily scene of an emotional rollercoaster that reacts to internal and external influences like a finely tuned echo sounder. Smells, colours, rain and wind, cities and landscapes meet one's own reserves of strength and emotion and make the emotional merry-go-round whirl constantly.

And then there are the glances. One's own: curious, open, exhausted, searching, always realigning.

And the looks of others:
Sometimes:
Irritated, tired, strained, apathetic, dismissive, cold.

And then there is this look, like a campfire. That signals: "You may rest here. Don't be afraid. You are safe here."

Looks like a warm stew in winter - this is home.

On my way north from Patagonia, I have experienced the great fortune of being met time and again by one of the latter looks. And even after my cooker let me down on the way to the mountains, it was these looks that sprouted happiness again from brief frustration. Glances like those of Gloria Cenaida from Moya (📸 1-4), Delao from Laguna Jahuacocha (📸 5), Abel from Huancayo (📸 6-8) or Tito from Vicco (📸9-10).

In the end, one thought: humankind is good.

13/06/2023

One thing I have learned on the many kilometres since I started my journey is: It is not skill or talent that makes up the bulk of the daily kilometres, but above all determination.

The altitude, the rain and moments of exhaustion - what kept me going in these situations was 95% my head and not my legs.

It's all the nicer when you meet people with a similar mindset along the way - like Octa in Abancay, who started building his Casa del Arbol from childhood, a crazy labyrinth of ladders, levels, sleeping facilities, kitchenettes, collected treasures.

And with his bubbling energy, he not only tries to develop his own life every day - all the children in the neighbourhood know him for his helpfulness, the mountains around Abancay as a mountain guide.

15/05/2023

Day 102 & 103 | Conima

At sunset I reach the small village of Conima on the northern shore of Lake Titicaca. Actually, I had planned to camp on the beach there.

Though, when I arrive, the average alcohol level on the village square is already well advanced. On the weekend the village celebrates its birthday - and for the next day a big Sikuris competition is planned on the beach. My overnight plans thus fall through.

Fortunately, I meet Armando, whose cousin owns a small hospedaje where I can stay for the night. He invites me to have breakfast together the next morning. On this occasion he introduces me to half of the village - and also to one of the groups participating in the competition.

Since my panpipe skills prove to be limited, I am chosen to carry the banner of the group at the competition. Probably a better idea than to let me participate with pan flute in the competition - in the end we reach the third place and spend the afternoon chewing coca and with plenty of beer and Chicha.

14/05/2023

Day 97 - 99 | La Paz - Tihuanacu - Desaguadero - Copacabana | 152 km, +1.000 m

And again it is time to say goodbye, as my girlfriend heads back to Germany after two spending two wonderful weeks in La Paz and its beautiful surroundings.

I pack my things, after a short, steep climb through the streets of La Paz I meet up with Melanie & Fabien (), whom I have already met on Isla Incahuasi in the Salar de Uyuni.

Together we load the bikes into the cable car gondola - there's no better way to fly with your bike🤩 Together we head towards the ruins of Tiwanacu, which we visit the following day.

With the sun god on our side, the bikes carry us to the edge of Lago Titicaca in the early afternoon. After Fabien had to patch his tire twice on the last meters, we reach the border to Peru in Desaguadero in the early evening. Conflicting information will force us to return once again by cab the following day, after we find the border station closed in Kasani after less than 24 hours in Peru.

The mantra remains: there's always a solution. With exit stamps from Desaguadero we cross the border in the early afternoon and to celebrate the day we have a sunset beer in Copacabana with a view of Lago Titicaca.

13/05/2023

La Paz, Conoriri Mountains & Madidi National Park | Half Time Break

While my bike is allowed to rest for two weeks, I am curious about La Paz and the surrounding area. Together with my girlfriend from Berlin, we explore the bustling metropolis, nestled in the surrounding mountains, the fantastic gastro scene, the Altiplano and open up the Amazon basin by boat. From 5,350 m to 274 m and back to over 3,000 m.

After almost 3 months in the saddle, I can once properly charge the personal battery here.

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La Paz & Conoriri-Gebirge & Nationalpark Madidi | | Halbzeitpause

Während mein Rad sich für zwei Wochen ausruhen darf, bin ich neugierig auf La Paz und Umland. Gemeinsam mit meiner Freundin aus Berlin erkunden wir die wuselnde Metropole, geborgen im Nest der umliegenden Berge, die fantastische Gastro-Szene, das Altiplano und erschließen uns per Boot das Amazonas-Becken. Von 5.350 m auf 274 m und zurück auf über 3.000 m.

Nach fast 3 Monaten im Sattel kann ich hier einmal den persönlichen Akku richtig laden.

13/05/2023

As the saying goes: the will can move mountains. Or climb them.

So far, the altitude meters have been as much as 11.26198514517218 Zugspitzen (Germany's highest mountain).

You want to move mountains too? With a donation to you support the mobility of people in rural developing regions in the form of bicycles and help remove barriers to personal, social or economic development.

You can find the link to my fundraiser in my bio!

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Wie sagt man so schön: der Wille kann Berge versetzen. Oder erklettern.

Bisher waren das an Höhenmetern so viel wie 11,26198514517218 Zugspitzen (Deutschlands höchstem Berg).

Du willst auch Berge versetzen? Mit einer Spende an World Bicycle Relief unterstützt du die Mobilität von Menschen in ländlichen Entwicklungsregionen in Form von Fahrrädern und hilfst dabei Barrieren für persönliche, soziale oder wirtschaftliche Entwicklung abzubauen.

Den Link zu meiner Spendenaktion findest du in meiner Bio!

13/05/2023

Over 3,000 km, over mountains and gravel/sand/rock roads, through the Patagonian rain and wind, through larchy land and lush nature, between pure happiness and frustration, blessed with hospitality and always wary of the dogs, with the open sky as a bedspread, lakes and rivers as a tap and grateful and fulfilled to make this incredible journey a reality.

Being halfway through my journey, cycling through the glacier landscapes of Patagonia and the Bolivian Altiplano, I've noticed time and again that everywhere, in villages and cities, bicycles help people in precarious situations to be mobile. Whether as a converted sales stall, a means of transport in a remote village or for the long way to work in the city.

Help me work with to give more people access to their own bicycle!

You can find the link to the donation page in my bio!

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Über 3.000 km, über Berge und Schotter-/Sand-/Steinpisten, durch den patagonischen Regen und Wind, durch larges Land und üppige Natur, zwischen purem Glück und Frustration, gesegnet mit Gastfreundschaft und stets auf der Hut vor den Hunden, mit dem offenen Himmel als Bettdecke, Seen und Flüssen als Wasserhahn und dankbar und erfüllt, diese unglaubliche Reise Wirklichkeit werden zu lassen.

Auf halber Strecke meiner Reise durch die Gletscherlandschaften Patagoniens und das bolivianische Altiplano ist mir immer wieder aufgefallen, dass überall, in Dörfern und Städten, Fahrräder Menschen in prekären Situationen helfen, mobil zu sein. Ob als umgebauter Verkaufsstand, als Transportmittel in einem abgelegenen Dorf oder für den langen Weg zur Arbeit in der Stadt.

Hilf mir, gemeinsam mit World Bicycle Relief mehr Menschen den Zugang zu einem eigenen Fahrrad zu ermöglichen! Den Link zur Spendenseite findest du in meiner Bio!

11/05/2023

Day 78 - 80 | Uyuni - Salar de Uyuni - Isla Incahuasi - Salinas de Garci Mendoza | Part 2

After spending the first night in the middle of the salar, the alarm clock rings early in the morning. Then: endless silence. Nothing but the crunch of footsteps on the salt. The gaze wanders into the distance as the rising sun transforms this hostile world into a breathtaking play of colours.

Filled with the feeling of experiencing a unique moment, we set off towards Isla Incahuasi, an island in the middle of the salar, where we want to spend our lunch break and seek refuge from the blazing midday sun. On the way, however, we take a moment for the obligatory naked photo session - a tradition among bicycle travellers.

Shortly after our arrival on the island, Alice, Manu, Melanie and Fabien () from France - also cycling - reach this little oasis.

Without further ado, we decide to end the day on the island with Noé and celebrate our farewell after two months of travelling together. While for me the journey will continue in a northerly direction, Noé is planning his return to France from Chile and is therefore taking a route towards San Pedro de Atacama.

Thank you for an incredible time, dear - the humour in the never-ending Patagonian rain, shared summit ci******es and culinary masterpieces. See you in Berlin!

09/05/2023

Day 78 - 80 | Uyuni - Salar de Uyuni - Isla Incahuasi - Salinas de Garci Mendoza | Part 1

Departure in Uyuni - my stomach is restless, I go to the toilet 2 more times to p*e, last bag check, then we start. Under the shimmering sun, right next to the hostel, a brass band plays. Bustle on the streets occupied by the Sunday market.
With every kilometre I cycle over the asphalt, nervousness turns into restless excitement.

Colchani: Doña Nico in her green bus. There is rice with potatoes, 3 pieces of meat, while the radio is blaring news from the area and the flies are happily doing their rounds.

Then the transition to the great WHITE. The edge of the desert of salt lined with puddle windows reflecting clouds. Through the windows I go - the white gold crunching under the wheels, on and on towards the horizon.

09/05/2023

08/05/2023

Day 75 - 77 | La Quiaca - Villazon - Uyuni

Day 75 - 77 | La Quiaca - Villazon - Uyuni The good news first. In La Quiaca I can find a bike shop without major problems that has the urgently needed front derailleur in stock! Pablo's small but nice shop is still hidden behind the façade of a kiosk, as he still needs the necessary papers for the official opening.

However - and here comes the bad news - the border to Bolivia is blocked until further notice due to teacher protests, so Pablo is the saviour in the greatest need. So while my bike is being repaired, we use the forced break to recover a little - and indeed we soon receive the information that the border will reopen at the weekend.

Ready, steady, go. Bolivia, here we come! Thank you Argentina - for your wonderful people, the boundless hospitality, your wonderful landscapes. I'll come back!

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Die gute Nachricht zuerst. In La Quiaca kann ich ohne größere Probleme einen Fahrradladen finden, der den dringend benötigten Umwerfer auf Vorrat hat! Pablo‘s kleines, aber feines Geschäft versteckt sich bisher noch hinter der Fassade eines Kiosks, da er aktuell noch die notwendigen Papiere für die offizielle Eröffnung benötigt.

Da jedoch - und da kommt die schlechte Nachricht - die Grenze nach Bolivien aufgrund von Lehrerprotesten bis auf weiteres blockiert ist, ist Pablo der Retter in größter Not.

Während also mein Rad wieder in Stand gebracht wird, nutzen wir die Zwangspause, um uns ein wenig zu erholen - und tatsächlich erhalten wir dann auch bald die Information, dass die Grenze am Wochenende wieder öffnet.

Ready, steady, go. Bolivien, here we come!

Danke Argentinien - für deine wunderbaren Menschen, die grenzenlose Gastfreundschaft, deine wunderbaren Landschaften. I‘ll come back!

07/05/2023

Day 72 - 74 | San Salvador de Jujuy - La Quiaca | Part 1

After a 20-hour bus ride, San Salvador de Jujuy welcomes us with humid, tropical air. From there, we climb the Andes again - metre by metre.

The road winds through lush green landscapes along the Rio Grande - and after a short time the vegetation changes. Lush green is replaced by sparse and colourful rock formations, bold cacti stretching out towards the sun and - during a short detour to Purmamarca - the tourist magnet Cerro de los 7 colores.

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Nach 20-stündiger Busfahrt empfängt uns San Salvador de Jujuy mit feucht-tropisch anmutender Luft. Von dort geht es - Meter für Meter - erneut die Anden hinauf.

Durch üppig grüne Landschaften windet sich die Straße entlang des Rio Grande - und nach kurzer Zeit wechselt die Vegetation. Sattes Grün wird abgelöst von karg-bunten Felsformationen, sich keck der sonne entgegenstreckenden Kakteen und - bei einem kurzen Abstecher nach Purmamarca - dem Touristenmagnet Cerro de los 7 colores.

07/05/2023

Day 67
A railway station in nowhere

Rugged skin, old as time
Lonely stands the telegraph pole

Dry land, the view is wide
A trucker rushes by with haste

The Cordillera stretches upwards
Slowly the light creeps

Behind the night beauty winks out
Eager for the new day

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Tag 67
Eine Bahnstation im Nirgendwo

Schroffe Haut, alt wie die Zeit
Einsam steht der Telegraphenmast

Dörres Land, der Blick ist weit
Ein Trucker rauscht vorbei mit Hast

Die Kordillere reckt sich empor
Langsam kriecht das Licht

Hinter der Nacht blinzelt Schönheit hervor
Auf den neuen Tag erpicht

05/05/2023

Day 60 - 66
Santiago de Chile - Valparaiso - Los Andes - Paso del Cristo Redentor

After an accidental visit to a sushi restaurant before leaving Panguipulli, Noé was unfortunately confined to bed for the time being after arriving in Santiago. In the meantime, I explored the city, took care of the necessary spare parts for the bike, saw some great theatre at the GAM and visited an exhibition about shamanism. Fortunately, my travel companion was fit again for his birthday and together we went on a trip to beautiful Valparaiso.
Then it was time to say adios to Chile.
The first crossing of the Andes from Los Andes over the Paso del Cristo Redentor was waiting for us. Over 3000 metres of altitude difference on only 75 km of track.
After a night at over 2000 metres above sea level and a crystal-clear starry sky, the last few metres to the pass were only possible by pushing on a sandy track.
At the top of the pass, however, we were rewarded with the satisfaction of being exhausted and a fantastic view of Aconcacagua, at 6961 m the highest mountain in South America.

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Nach einem verunglückten Besuch eines Sushi-Restaurants vor der Abfahrt aus Panguipulli war Noé nach Ankunft in Santiago unglücklicherweise für‘s Erste ans Bett gefesselt. Währenddessen erkundete ich die Stadt, kümmerte mich um notwendige Ersatzteile für‘s Fahrrad, sah mir im GAM tolles Theater an und besuchte eine Ausstellung über Schamanismus. Für seinen Geburtstag war mein Reisecompagnon dann glücklicherweise wieder fit & gemeinsam machten wir einen Ausflug ins wunderschöne Valparaiso.
Dann war es Zeit Chile Adios zu sagen.
Auf uns wartete die erste Andenüberquerung von Los Andes über den Paso del Cristo Redentor. Über 3000 Höhenmeter auf nur 75 km Strecke.
Nach einer Nacht auf über 2000 Metern über NN und glasklarem Sternenhimmel, waren die letzten Meter bis zum Pass dann auf sandiger Piste nur noch schiebend möglich.
Auf der Passhöhe wurden wir dann allerdings belohnt mit der Zufriedenheit des Erschöpften und einem fantastischen Ausblick auf den Aconcacagua, mit 6961 m der höchste Berg Südamerikas.

05/05/2023

Day 57 - 59
Osorno - Futrono - Panguipulli

Strengthened and eager for a new chapter after the Carretera Austral, we then set off towards the Chilean Lakes Region.

Along the Rio Bueno, the road leads through fields with a Münsterland-like appearance, cows note the passing bikes with indifferent expressions, it smells of damp grass and when we arrive at Lago Ranco, the sun delights us with a wonderful play of colours on the lake.

But when we reach Panguipulli the next day - after a few metres of altitude and even more indifferent cow-eye pairs - the rain once again covers the landscape like an opaque sheet. There is no sign of the fantastic views of the surrounding volcanoes. And the constant cold that Noé has been carrying for several weeks is slowly but surely turning into a full-blown flu.

After a night at the edge of the lake and never-ending rain, we decide to take a jump and book a bus to Santiago. We want sun at last!

Tag 57 - 59
Osorno - Futrono - Panguipulli

Gestärkt und gespannt auf ein neues Kapitel nach der Carretera Austral machen wir uns dann auf den Weg in Richtung der chilenischen Seenregion.

Entlang des Rio Bueno führt der Weg durch münsterländisch anmutende Felder, Kühe notieren mit gleichgültiger Miene die vorbeirauschenden Drahtesel, es riecht nach feuchtem Gras und bei Ankunft am Lago Ranco beglückt uns die Sonne mit wunderbarem Farbenspiel auf dem See.

Als wir dann - nach einigen Höhenmetern und noch mehr gleichgültigen Kuhaugen-Paaren am nächsten Tag Panguipulli erreichen, legt sich der Regen jedoch erneut wie ein undurchsichtiges Tuch über die Landschaft. Von den fantastischen Aussichten auf die umliegenden Vulkane weit und breit keine Spur. Und der Dauerschnupfen, dem Noé bereits seit einigen Wochen mit sich trägt wird langsam aber sicher zur handfesten Grippe.

Nach einer Nacht am Rand des Sees und nicht enden wollendem Dauerregen entscheiden wir kurzerhand einen Sprung zu machen und buchen einen Bus nach Santiago. Wir wollen endlich Sonne!

05/05/2023

Day 57 - 59
Osorno - Futrono - Panguipulli

Strengthened and eager for a new chapter after the Carretera Austral, we then set off towards the Chilean Lakes Region.
Along the Rio Bueno, the road leads through fields with a Münsterland-like appearance, cows note the passing bikes with indifferent expressions, it smells of damp grass and when we arrive at Lago Ranco, the sun delights us with a wonderful play of colours on the lake.
But when we reach Panguipulli the next day - after a few metres of altitude and even more indifferent cow-eye pairs - the rain once again covers the landscape like an opaque sheet. There is no sign of the fantastic views of the surrounding volcanoes. And the constant cold that Noé has been carrying for several weeks is slowly but surely turning into a full-blown flu.

05/05/2023

Day 54 - 56
Osorno

As the weather forecast is dripping wet, we spontaneously decide to ride from Puerto Montt towards the sun, load the bikes into a bus and set off towards Osorno.

Through an encounter from the beginning of the trip in Punta Arenas, we are able to stay there with Christine and Jean-Claude, who welcome us with great warmth and cordiality. As the director of the Alliance Française there, I can exchange ideas with Christine about the Chilean theatre landscape, her impressive biography, life and the adventures of my journey so far.

Merci encore!

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Tag 54 - 56
Osorno

Da die Wettervorhersage triefend nass ist, entscheiden wir uns spontan von Puerto Montt der Sonne entgegen zu fahren, laden die Räder in einen Bus und machen uns auf den Weg in Richtung Osorno.

Über eine Begegnung vom Anfang der Reise in Punta Arenas können wir dort bei Christine und Jean-Claude unterkommen, die uns mit großer Herzlichkeit und Wärme aufnehmen. Als Leiterin der dortigen Alliance Française kann ich mich mit Christine über die chilenische Theaterlandschaft, ihre beeindruckende Biografie, das Leben und die bisherigen Abenteuer meiner Reise austauschen.

Merci encore!

05/05/2023

Day 52 - 54
Hornopiren - Puerto Montt

At the foot of the Hornopiren volcano, David accommodates cyclists from all over the world in his Ruka del Ciclista for a voluntary donation. There we recharge our batteries before we cycle the last kilometres towards Puerto Montt, accompanied by the joyful drumming of the Magellanic Woodpecker, the largest woodpecker species in South America and also one of the largest woodpeckers in the world, still enveloped in the delicate Patagonian rain cape.

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Tag 52 - 54
Hornopiren - Puerto Montt

Am Fuße des Vulkans Hornopiren beherbergt David in seiner Ruka del Ciclista gegen eine freiwillige Spende Fahrradreisende aus aller Welt. Dort laden wir noch einmal die Akkus auf, bevor wir, begleitet vom freudigen Getrommel des Magellanspechts, der größten Spechtart Südamerikas und auch weltweit einer der größten Spechte, die letzten Kilometer in Richtung Puerto Montt rollen, weiterhin umhüllt vom zarten patagonischen Regenumhang.

23/04/2023

Day 50: Chaiten - Parque Pumalin - Caleta Gonzálo - Leptepu - Hornopiren

After a short rest we set off on the last kilometres of the Carretera Austral. While the moon still lingers gently over the small harbour town, we make our way towards Parque Pumalin. The morning greets us with humid air, the sun breaking in the sea of ferns and nalcas and a mirror-like Lago Rio Blanco. After the heavy rains of the previous days, however, shortly before arriving in Caleta Gonzálo, we realise once again what a utopian project this road at the end of the world represents. The parts of the road that have been washed away are being repaired with excavators and trucks.

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Tag 50:
Chaiten - Parque Pumalin - Caleta Gonzálo - Leptepu - Hornopiren

Nach kurzer Erholungspause brechen wir auf die letzten Kilometer der Carretera Austral auf. Während der Mond noch sanft über der kleinen Hafenstadt weilt, bahnen wir uns den Weg in Richtung Parque Pumalin.
Der Morgen begrüßt uns dann mit feucht-geschwängerter Luft, Sonne die sich im Meer aus Farnen und Nalcas bricht und einem spiegelglatten Lago Rio Blanco.

Nach den heftigen Regenfällen der vorherigen Tage wird einem aber - kurz vor Ankunft in Caleta Gonzálo noch einmal bewusst, welch utopisches Projekt diese Straße am Ende der Welt darstellt. Mit Baggern und LKWs werden die weggeschwemmten Teile der Straße wieder in Stand gesetzt.

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