Adriana's Awesome Adventures (2025)

22/12/2024

Bolivia, on the Bucket list
I knew what to expect, going to the highest capital in the world, La Paz, Bolivia, sitting at 13,500 feet above sea level. I knew what happened to me when I landed in Lhasa, Tibet. I was sick for two days and ended up in the hospital to be administered oxygen. I did not want to repeat the experience, so I took high-altitude medicine to prevent being sick again. I was not, but I still huffed and puffed and had to stop often to catch my breath throughout my stay in Bolivia.
LA PAZ is rich with 19th-century churches, museums of artifacts from the pre-Conquest era, and colorful markets.
The city of La Paz started in a deep, broad canyon. Population growth has expanded the city up the canyon walls to the edge of the Altiplano. The government built a fantastic cable car system to deal with the traffic and connect the different parts of the city. Ten lines of cable cars connect all parts of La Paz. Even so, the traffic in the city is unbearable!
In the center of the city is The Murillo Square (Plaza Murillo). The plaza is dominated by a huge Cathedral, the Presidential Palace, and the National Congress. In the square, there are statues of historical personalities from all periods of Bolivian history.
Mercado de las brujas (The Witch Market) is an open-air market selling traditional clothes, herbal medicines, trinkets, and superstitious objects. The Aymarans, the Indigenous people of Bolivia, believe that burying mummified llama fetuses under the house will bring blessings and good health to the family. The Witches Market offers such fetuses.
El Alto is a suburb of La Paz with the largest concentration of Indigenous people in Latin America. The Aymaras of the Altiplano still speak their native language and wear traditional dress. Here, in El Alto, one can find the “cholitas”. Cholita is a derogatory Spanish term used for the Indigenous people in Bolivia. The women used this term for a mission: to fight against discrimination and violence. Violence against women is widespread. Seven in ten experience violence and domestic abuse. Cholitas learned to fight and also teach self-defense. It is quite a show to see these women dressed in petticoats, puffy skirts, and fancy shoes with long braids flying in the air, tossing each other from one end of the ring to the other.
Outside the city of La Paz, there is the archeological site of TIWANAKU, a civilization in Bolivia that was founded around 200 BC and reached its peak around 900 AD. It was for centuries the capital of a vast and powerful empire. Some of the building blocks weighed 130 tons and had to have been lifted by up to 2,600 people since they did not have the concept of the wheel. They had a vast irrigation system used for agriculture with aqueducts and canals, and residential areas with structures made of mud bricks. They had large stone sculptures, pottery, and textiles. The Tiwanaku empire collapsed around 1000 AD when the city was abandoned and severely looted.
"VALLE DE LAS ANIMAS", or Valley of the Souls, is a valley where thousands of geological formations shaped like needles seem to reach for the sky. The indigenous population in the area believes it to be a sacred site where the spirits of the ancestors reside.
THE SALT FLATS in Bolivia are the largest in the world. It covers an area of 4,100 sq miles and sits 11,995 feet above sea level. They are almost completely flat. The layer of salt in some places is over 32.8 feet thick! That’s estimated to be a total of 10 billion tons of salt! During the dry season, the salt crystallizes as the water evaporates, forming hexagonal patterns. During the rainy season, the salt flats transform into a vast mirror, reflecting the sky so perfectly that the horizon seems to disappear. Surrounding the salt flats are several deserts, geysers, colorful lagoons, hot springs, and snow-capped volcanoes. Strangely enough, animals live in this inhospitable land: the rare Andean flamingos, the Culpeo fox, vicunas, Bolivian Vizcacha, and llamas. And there are thousands of gigantic cacti that grow in the middle of the flats. A trip to Uyuni feels like a trip away from Earth.

06/12/2024

COLOMBIA WAS CALLING
It started with Cartagena, the most beautiful colonial town in South America. I heard about Cartagena, its beauty, and its history, which is important enough to make it a UNESCO heritage site. Cartagena was founded in 1533 and was a major port in the Caribbean Sea. Great fleets stopped annually to take gold from South America to Spain. Cartagena is perfectly preserved, displaying ornate churches and beautiful and colorful houses with balconies dripping abundantly with bougainvillas and other tropical flowers.
Cartagena is very hot and humid all year round, so sightseeing was limited to morning and evening.
From Cartegena, a short flight took us to Bogota, the third-highest capital in South America at an average of 8,660 ft above sea level. Bogotá is the capital of Colombia and is very diverse and multicultural. Within this city, the past and present come together. In ancient Colombia, gold was used as a powder to cover the body of the future Muisca king (indigenous people in Colombia) in a coronation ceremony. The newly dusted monarch, "El Dorado", (the golden one), then leaped into Lake Guatavita, outside the city, in a ritual act of cleansing. When the Spanish conquistadores heard the rumors of this ceremony in the 1530s, El Dorado turned from a man to a great city paved with gold. When the conquistadores arrived, they found gold artifacts, which they melted down and shipped to Europe. Spain shipped 100 tons of gold and became one of the richest countries in the world. Some pieces were saved and are now housed in the Museum of Gold (Museo del Oro), the largest collection of prehispanic goldwork in the whole world.
Colombia’s famous artist, Fernando Botero, is known for his trademark of creating voluminous, bloated, oversized depictions of people. Botero Museum, Bogota, Colombia, hosts a great collection of Botero paintings.
Outside Bogota, Villa de Leyva is one of the few towns in Colombia to have its original colonial-style architecture: the streets and large central plaza are still paved with cobblestones. Plaza Mayor, at 150,000 square feet is the largest square in Colombia and believed to be the largest entirely cobbled square in South America. The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, built in 1604, is in the square and exhibits colonial baroque architecture with an altarpiece carved from wood and covered in gold.
Cocora Valley, outside the quaint town of Salonta, is famous for its wax palms, the tallest palm trees in the world. They grow only in Colombia's Cocora Valley. They thrive at high altitudes in the Andes about 6,000 feet (1800 meters) above sea level and can reach up to 200 feet (61 meters) in height or more. The wax palm tree species can live more than 200 years!
The most famous city in Colombia is Medellin, once home of notorious drug lord Pablo Escobar. Comuna 13, was the epicenter of violence and criminal activity by the Medellin cartel. Comuna 13 became known as one of the most dangerous places in the world. There was no government support, no police, and no public services. Even after the death of Pablo Escobar and the government's decision to eliminate rebel groups with the army, police, and paramilitary groups, killings and kidnappings continued.
It took the residents of the community to come together and reject the gangs using dance, music, and graffiti to express themselves. The government began to invest in the infrastructure by connecting the hillsides with the city giving access to job opportunities. They built cable cars and escalators for easier movement up and down hundreds of steps. Comuna 13 is now a safe and vibrant neighborhood and the number one tourist attraction in Medellin.
Guatape, a short drive from Medellin, is the world’s most colorful town. The entire town is painted in vibrant colors, making it a photographer’s paradise. It started with families painting images along the sides of their houses, each house telling a unique story of the family living inside, and the idea spread.
Guatape also has a unique stone that rises over 650 feet out of the flat ground. La Piedra de Penon was once worshiped by the Tahamies Indians. The rock, which is almost entirely smooth, has one long crack. In the crack is wedged a 649-step staircase, the only way to get to the top of the Piedra de Penol. It overlooks a dramatic series of lakes and islands. A fantastic view to witness from the top!

Next: Bolivia on my Bucket list

25/11/2024

THE SPLENDORS OF SAMARKAND, Uzbekistan
Samarkand was one of the most important cities on the Silk Road, the crossroads of world cultures for over two millennia. Founded in the 7th century BC, Samarkand is older than Rome. It is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage site as “Samarkand, Crossroads of Cultures”. The city is known for its magnificent architecture displaying Islamic art. The stunning architecture was described as “The Pearl of the Eastern Muslim World” by historians. Unlike Khiva and Bukhara, where all the historical sites are within the walls of the old town, the main sites in Samarkand are spread out.
GUR-E-AMIR MAUSOLEUM or “Tomb of the King” in Persian, is a beautiful architectural complex with a ribbed turquoise dome. It is where Amir Timur, founder of the Timurid Empire, and some of his family members are buried. The Gur-e-Amir was completed in 1404. It is spectacular both outside and inside. The exterior is decorated in blue, turquoise, and white tiles. The inside of the mausoleum is decorated with gilded geometric panels. In the middle of the room, there are ornately carved headstones, indicating the location of actual tombs. These tombs are the final resting places of Amir Timur, his sons, and grandsons. Amir Timur was the most important ruler and historical figure. A ruthless leader, he founded the Timurid Empire with Samarkand as its center. He expanded his empire from the Volga River and the Caucasian mountains in the west to India in the Southwest.
SHAH-i-ZINDANECROPOLIS is a sacred necropolis that includes mausoleums and other buildings. Shah-i-Zinda means “Tomb of the Living King”. Most of the mausoleums date back to the 14th to 15th century. The buildings are grouped along a magnificent narrow street. Many royals and other noble people are buried there. The blue tilework on the exteriors of the tombs is stunning with some of the interior tilework and mosaics jaw-dropping.
REGISTAN is the most iconic site in Samarkand, probably the entire Uzbekistan. It is a splendid square surrounded by three madrasas or Islamic schools. They were built between the 15th and 17th century.
Ulugh Beg Madrasah is the oldest madrasah in Samarkand. It was built in the 15th century during the Timurid Empire. It was a center of learning and culture where the scientist and astronomer Ulug Beg gave lectures in mathematics and astronomy.
The Tilya-Kori Madrassah means “gilded” in Persian, and the interior walls are gilded, indeed. Almost every surface on the inside of the dome and the ceiling is covered in gold. The Tilya Kori Madrassah has the most stunning interior of all the architecture in Uzbekistan. The madrasah was used as a dormitory for students, but the rooms are now little souvenir shops.
Uzbekistan is a beautiful, safe country with wonderful people and good food, not on the radar of many travel enthusiasts, but it should be.

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05/11/2024

BUKHARA, Uzbekistan
The drive from the desert fortresses of ancient Khorezm to Bukhara was long, boring, and uneventful. Looking out the car window to the desert for endless hours I could only imagine the caravans slowly moving through this inhospitable land.
When we finally reached Bukhara I was rendered speechless by its beauty. Walking between the many arches and domes of the old city felt like stepping back in time. The craftsmanship that went into building the minarets, domes, and walls of this city is baffling. The historic center of Bukhara, which contains numerous mosques and madrassas, has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Of note are:
THE ARK FORTRESS is one of Bukhara’s oldest structures and the entrance to the old city since the 5th century AD. It was used as a real fortress until the early 1920s. This massive citadel has been destroyed and rebuilt many times over the ages. It is said that the Emir himself blew up the palace so it wouldn’t fall into the enemy's hands.
PO-I-KALYAN ENSEMBLE, is the most beautiful part of the old town and the crown of Bukhara. The ensemble is formed by the Kalyan minaret, the Miri Arab Madrassah, and the Kalyan mosque. The Kalyan Minaret, built in 1127, so impressed Mongol leader Genghis Kahn (1162-1227) that when he conquered Bukhara he decided to save it. The Kalyan Minaret is also known as the Tower of Death. According to legend it is the site where criminals were executed by being thrown off the top. Kalyan Mosque’s multi-domed roof is supported by 288 monumental pylons and is so large that it can accommodate 12,000 people.
The ISMAIL SAMANI mausoleum was built in the 9th century as the resting place of Ismail Samani—the founder of the Samanid dynasty, the last Persian dynasty to rule the region in the 9th to 10th centuries. It has a unique architectural style, a combination of Zoroastrian and Islamic motifs. The building's facade is covered in intricately decorated brickwork, featuring circular patterns.
BOLO HAOUZ MOSQUE was built in 1712. It served as a mosque during the time when the emir of Bukhara was under the rule of the BolshevikRussians in in the 1920s. This mosque has some of the most stunning and intricately carved wooden pillars. The ceiling above the pillars is covered in gorgeous frescoes with geometrical patterns.
CHAR MINAR is a charming mosque with four towers. The four towers represent the four religions known in Central Asia: Christian, Buddhist, Zoroastria, and Islam.
ULUGBEK MADRASSAH is relatively small and simple but still very beautiful. The construction dates from 1417.
ABDULAZIZ KHAN MADRASSAH is grand and elaborately decorated. The walls and portals of this madrassah display reliefs, gorgeous tiles, brick mosaics, and ornamental stalactites.

SITORAI MOKHI-KHOSA was the summer residence of the last Bukhara emirs. The rooms are a mixture of European and Asian architectural styles. Around the palace there is a park with many fountains. The ruler’s wife died young, so he named the palace after her - Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa, translated as ‘the palace of the moon-like star’.
Bukhara is a lively city with many musicians and dancers performing in the streets of the old town dressed in traditional clothes entertaining tourists with their beautiful songs and dance.

20/10/2024

NOT FAR FROM KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN, there is the desert oasis of Khwarezm. In this vast desert are the ruins of 50 forts known as the Golden Ring.
More than two thousand years ago, people were drawn to Khwarezm for its natural oasis. For this reason numerous groups of people built cities and surrounded them with forts for protection from nomadic tribes.
We visited this UNESCO heritage site with the help of a very knowledgeable and humorous guide, Olimjon Saidmamatov. It is always important to entertain visitors with more than just facts and figures.
Olimjon guided us to all that remains of many sites, some just foundations of city walls and buildings, ramparts, basements, and collapsed underground tunnels. Out of the fifty desert fortresses only twenty have been found and some have been restored including Ayaz Kala, which dates from the 4th century.
This area in the western part of Uzbekistan is actually the autonomous republic of Karakalpakstan. Presently there are 2 million people living in this inhospitable desert. Until recently, the locals lived in yurts, which are now used by travelers and visitors. Spending the night in a yurt is a unique experience especially when Reno, the manager of the yurt compound, showed us a traditional dance. What graceful dancing!

16/10/2024

KHIVA, Uzbekistan

The high-speed night train from Tashkent to Khiva lasted 15 hours. The cabins were small but clean and comfortable, enough for a good night's sleep.
Khiva is just emerging as a travel destination as most travelers concentrate more on Bukhara and Samarkand, two locations closer to Tashkent. I am so glad we went to Khiva; in retrospect, it is my favorite stop in Uzbekistan.
Khiva was a major trading hub for the caravans on the Silk Road that stretched from China to Rome and Venice. For 1,500 years this central Asian region saw the exchange of silk, spices, and all kinds of ideas and philosophies.
Sadly, in 1598, Khiva became one of the major slave capitals of the world. About 100,000 slaves were sold in the slave market of Khiva and Bukhara every year, most of them Persians and Russians. In 1873, Khiva was annexed by Russia after the Russians conquered Central Asia and this ended the slave trade and slavery in Khiva.
Today, visiting the ancient city of Khiva is like stepping back in time. The walled-in town of Khiva is known as ITCHAN KALA. It is a UNESCO heritage site and home to 60 cultural sites, medieval mosques, great palaces, and numerous museums, souvenir shops, and art studios. Khiva contains some of the best-preserved examples of Islamic architecture in Central Asia.
The 18th-century JUMA MOSQUE features 218 beautifully carved wooden pillars, some dating from the 10th century. Although the mosque is now inactive, it is said that once it could have held 500 people.
The PAHLAVAN MAHMOUD MAUSOLEUM is considered the most impressive building in the Ichan-Kala. A royal burial ground, it features several domed tombs. The mausoleum's interior is covered in deep blue tiles with intricate decorations and magnificent chandeliers. It was built to honor the 14th-century poet Pahlavan Mahmoud, revered as Khiva’s protector.
KALTA MINOR MINARET is a large turquoise-tiled tower. Although the minaret seems to be complete, it was actually designed to be the base of the tallest minaret in Uzbekistan. It was intended to be tall enough to see all the way to Bukhara.
The ISLAM KHWAJA MADRASAH and minaret represent the last major architectural accomplishments of Central Asia’s Islamic era. It reaches a height of 148 feet (45 meters), and the minaret is Khiva’s tallest structure.
MUHAMMAD AMINKHAN MADRASAH is the largest and most tiled madrasah in Khiva. In 1990 it was included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites as a part of Itchan Kala. Currently, it is used as a hotel and exhibition space.
TOSH HAULI, or stone palace, was built by Allakuli Khan in the mid-1830s. The tiles in the rooms and courtyards of the harem area where the Khan lived with his four wives and 40 concubines, has some of the most exquisite colors and patterns found in the Itchan Kala.
And then there is the shopping. The street shops are alive from morning till night selling fur hats, ikan-print chapans (long coats for women), carpets, and souvenirs.

Next on the itinerary: The desert castles of ancient Khorezm

04/10/2024

We arrived in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, at 1 am. As we drove to the hotel in the dark of night I found Tashkent clean and calm. Streets and highways were spotless. From what I could tell, my first impression was that it was a modern city. Later it captivated me as a city culturally rich with a unique blend of ancient history and modern development.
The next day we were joined by our two friends from Romania and went about doing the money business. In Uzbekistan, dollars and euros are accepted everywhere but we still needed some Soms, the Uzbek currency. Fortunately, next to the bank was a boutique shop where we found beautiful clothes at very reasonable prices. While shopping the owner videotaped an interview with us, a practice we found out is quite common in shops and restaurants across Uzbekistan. I have no idea what they do with the tapes, probably for advertising? This is where, right on the first day, we started a two-week shopping spree that took us from Tashkent to Khiva, Khorezm fortresses, Bukhara, and Samarkand.
Uzbekistan is located in Central Asia, at the heart of the ancient Silk Road, a network of trade routes that started in the second century BC. It spanned over 4,000 miles (6,400 km), and it played an important role in the economic, political, and religious exchanges between China and Europe. The Silk Road routes were closed in 1453 AD, when the Ottoman Empire boycotted trade with China.

In recent history, Uzbekistan was part of the Soviet Union and became independent in 1991. Since then its economy has become the strongest in Central Asia.

Ikrom Urazkulov also known as Mr. Amazing, guided our time in Tashkent. We visited bustling bazaars and places of stunning architecture. Khast Imam Complex houses the oldest Quran, pictures are not allowed, but Mr. Amazing managed to sneak a shot of us staring at the old manuscript. Uzbekistan is a Muslim country but all religions can practice freely.
Minor Mosque is a stunning mosque, known for its turquoise dome and intricate tilework.
Chorsu Bazaar is a vibrant market and one of the oldest and largest in Tashkent selling spices, textiles, fresh produce, and traditional crafts.
One of the city's symbols is the People of Friendship Monument dedicated to Uzbek people who adopted children of various nationalities during WWII. During the Patriotic War, more than 200,000 children who had lost their parents, were moved to Uzbekistan. They came from Russia, Belarus, Moldova, Ukraine, and Latvia.

Not far from Tashkent, is the second-largest solar furnace in the world. Built by the Soviets, the furnace uses over 10,000 small mirrors. The mirrors act as a parabolic reflector, reaching temperatures of up to 3,000 degrees Celsius. The heat produced by the solar furnace is considered to be without any pollutants. The furnace is a complex construction, with 63 flat mirrors automatically controlled to track the sun in unison and redirect the solar thermal energy towards the crucible.
The Soviets also built the Tashkent metro. Each station has been designed around a different theme and contains original works of art. After the break up of the Soviet Union in 1991 many stations were renamed to remove references to Communism.

A visit to Hotel Uzbekistan was in order. But why is it so famous? Built also by the Soviets it is dubbed the ugliest hotel in Tashkent.
Of course, we could not leave Tashkent without going to the Plov Center to try Plov, the national dish of Uzbekistan. Plov is a flavorful rice dish cooked with meat, carrots, onions, and spices. The Plov Center makes 3 tons of plov per day!

We had to say goodbye to Tashkent and Mr. Amazing as we boarded the night train to our next destination, Khiva.

Adriana's Awesome Adventures

22/12/2024

06/12/2024

25/11/2024

05/11/2024

20/10/2024

16/10/2024

04/10/2024

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