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16/10/2023

Adriana’s Awesome African Adventures
Six o’clock in the morning came early especially when we went to bed at three in the morning after a long flight. No complaints though, as adventures awaited! The first stop on the itinerary was Lake Nakuru located in Kenya on the floor of Great Rift Valley. Lake Nakuru is most famous for the colonies of flamingos numbering more than a million. Besides flamingos there are over 50 mammal species at Lake Nakuru, and Lake Nakuru National Park. We saw white rhinos, Cape buffalo, zebra, the Rothschild's giraffe, eland, and waterbuck.

Maasai Mara, Kenya, the next destination on our itinerary
"May the Creator give us cattle and children”, is a Maasai prayer. Cattle and children are the most important things to the Maasai people. The Maasai of East Africa live in southern Kenya and northern Tanzania with a population of approximately one-half million people. Maasai men marry multiple wives. The whole family lives in Kraals arranged in a circular fashion. Each wife has a house that she builds herself. The house is made of mud, sticks, grass, cow dung, and cow urine. There is a fence around the Kraal made of acacia thorns to prevent lions from entering.
The Maasai have deeply rooted traditions and customs. Both Maasai men and women undergo circumcision as soon as they reach puberty to mark their passage into adulthood. Women will undergo the barbaric practice of ge***al mutilation, the removal of the cl****is, and sometimes of the outer l***a. Men also have a tooth removed, which is considered a sign of beauty. All of this will be done without anesthetic or painkillers. Girls will marry shortly after and neither girl nor boy will have a choice on whom they marry. This is arranged between their parents.
The Maasai are some of the tallest people on the planet. The average height of a Maasai is believed to be 190.5 cm / 6.25 feet. They are also famous for jumping acts. The higher a Maasai jumps, the more eligible he is to marry. The Maasai rely on meat to eat and drink milk and blood from cattle for protein and caloric needs.
The Maasai people have no funeral ceremonies for the dead, as they believe that burying the dead body is bad for the soil. Instead, they smear the dead body with animal blood or fat and dump it in the bushes for predators to scavenge.
The village we visited was formed of one family: one man, eight wives, and thirty-eight children. The Maasai welcomed us with their traditional dance, showed us the inside of one of the houses (dark, small, and smelly), and showed us how to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together. A few houses had small solar panels and we were told that some Maasai had cell phones. Women smiled, children played, and men proudly explained their customs and traditions.

Animals we saw in Maasai Mara

It has distinctive jagged, irregular leaf-like blotches that extend from the hooves to its head.

African elephants are intelligent and socially complex animals. They are the largest land animals on Earth. They can be up to 7.5m long, 3.3m high, and can weigh 6 tons

Next, we drove by private car into Tanzania. At the border crossing a giraffe crossed the road right in front of us
We spent several days of safari in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro crater. There we encountered more lions, including one that had just caught a zebra and was guarding it closely.
We came across an elephant that had died and was devoured by vultures.

The Life and Death of an Elephant
Elephants are one of the most amazing animals in the world. They live in family structures and are dependent on each other for survival. Elephants show empathy towards each other, comforting those who are injured or grieving. They are intelligent and social.
Elephants understand death. When an elephant dies, the other elephants in the herd gather around the body and mourn the loss of their herd member. They touch the body with their trunks or legs and make sounds. This mourning behavior can last for several hours or even days. Once the mourning period is over, the elephants in the herd will move on, leaving the body behind for the scavengers. First on the scene will be the hyenas who can cut into the elephant’s thick skin with their sharp teeth. Then the vultures will come who will feed on the flesh and organs.
Elephants visit gravesites even years later to pay their respect. They touch the bones with their trunks or sniff the area where the body was once. This is how the elephants pay their respects to their deceased.
The elephants experience joy, grief, love, and compassion.

One morning I woke up saying to myself: “Today I am going to see a lion mama and her cubs." Not even five minutes after we left the camp, I saw her. And then, across the road, I saw two little ears in the grass. There it was, her cub. And then a second one, and a third one, and a fourth one. One lioness mama and her four cubs. One cub got bold and started to cross the road to join her mom but decided instead to hide under the safari jeep where she found shade. The second one joined, and the third and the fourth. Four cute lion cubs sitting under the car. Unlimited dose of cuteness!

Leopards

When a leopard catches its prey, it takes it up on a tree so that the hyenas will not get to it.
We were told that it is very difficult to see a leopard so I considered myself lucky to see this one proudly displaying his most recent catch. We admired him at length knowing that we would not get another chance to see a leopard again. We left, and just five minutes up the road, there he was, waiting patiently for us, as if to say: "I’ve been waiting for you, here I am." Then, he looked me straight in the eyes, posed beautifully for his portrait, then got up, said goodbye, and slowly walked into the sunset.

The Chase

The female lion found cover between two parked safari jeeps. She studied the scene in front of her: a herd of gazelles grazing quietly unaware of the imminent danger. One of them would be her next meal. She emerged cautiously from her hiding place and lowered herself in the grasses. She lifted her head, looked, lowered her head, and crawled, inches at a time. This took about 15-20 minutes. Eventually, one of the gazelles sensed the danger followed by the rest of the gazelles soon after. Suddenly they all stood still ready to flee at a moment’s notice. The lioness stood up, eyed the group of gazelles, made a quick calculation (speed and distance), and realized that she did not stand a chance. She turned around and walked back. Not now, not this time. The hunt was over!

We also saw baboons, including about 25-30 of them who aggressively jumped on top of our camp, the blue monkey, hammer bird, and the biggest snake I ever saw: a boa constrictor.

ZANZIBAR is an island off the coast of East Africa that belongs to Tanzania. It is a beautiful island with an ugly past. This ugliness is called slavery. Zanzibar was for a long time a hub of slave trade in the Indian Ocean. The slave trade was conducted by the Omani merchants who came to the island to trade in ivory and clover but found the selling of human beings a lot more lucrative. The African slaves were captured by other Africans through wars in central East Africa where ethnic groups were fighting against each other. The Omanis built a slave market in Stone Town, Zanzibar, that quickly became the center for buying and selling human beings. Thousands of slaves were brought in caravans on a journey that lasted many days. The captured walked in chains without food or water and many perished on the way due to hunger, exhaustion, and illness. It is not known how many African slaves were captured and sold and how many died.
When slaves arrived in Stone Town they were placed in a small underground chamber with very little light. Then they were prepared and exhibited sometimes whipped in public to determine how “strong” they were.
In 1909 slavery was abolished from the island of Zanzibar. The British colonial rulers erected a church on the site of the former slave market in Stone Town and there is also a museum and a memorial nearby. The memorial represents five cast concrete figures, all but one of which are chained around the neck.
Zanzibar is an idyllic island with beautiful sandy beaches and aquamarine waters.

The End of an Awesome Adventure

14/08/2023

The city of Bologna is a charming city full of history and art that traces back to the fourth century BC.
In the 11th century, Bologna founded the first university in the world. The city’s many churches and palaces are built in Medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque styles.
Bologna is characterized by an uninterrupted system of connecting covered streets totaling 35 km (22 miles) which connect palaces, churches, and other buildings. The porticos are a World Heritage Site!
Le Due Torri, the Two Towers, are the symbol of Bologna and date back to the 11th century. There were 100 towers in total representing the wealth and influence of the most prominent families in Bologna. Today the tallest tower still stands at a height of 97 meters (318 feet) and leans 1.3 degrees off-center. Quite a feat for the 11th century!!!
Bologna is world famous for its cuisine. It is where the famous tagliatelle al ragu (Spaghetti bolognese), 'Bologney' (Bologna sausage), Parmigiano Reggiano, parma ham and Balsamico Modena comes from.
Bologna is the city for foodies and art and history lovers!

Photos: A. Henderson

09/07/2023

ABC Islands
The Caribbean islands of Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao are the three westernmost islands of the Leeward Antilles in the South Caribbean 50 miles off the coast of Venezuela.
Collectively, these are called the Dutch Caribbean. Unlike much of the Caribbean region, the ABC islands lie outside Hurricane Alley, and, therefore, can be visited all year round.
The people living in the ABC islands are called Archaic Indians. They arrived at the islands from South America around 500 AD.
Most of the population is descended from Caquetio Indians, African slaves, and Dutch settlers, as well as other groups that have settled on the islands over time, such as the Spanish, Portuguese, English, French, and Sephardic Jews.
Official languages are Dutch and Papiamento. Dutch is the language for all administration and legal matters but Papiamento is the predominant language. Papiamento is a Portuguese- and Spanish-based creole language, that also incorporates words from Dutch and various West African languages. English and Spanish are also spoken. What a polyglot society!
The first European to visit Aruba and Bonaire was Amerigo Vespucci in 1499, who claimed the islands for Spain. The Netherlands seized the islands from Spain in 1636.
ARUBA’s pristine Eagle Beach has been voted one of the best beaches in the world. It has stunning soft, powder sand and crystal blue water. Aruba receives the most tourists, and is, therefore, more crowded.
BONAIRE is fringed by a coral reef and provides world-class snorkeling and scuba diving.
Bonaire's southern half has been made into a giant system of ponds and pools which evaporate seawater to produce salt. Bonaire produces 400,000 tons of industrial-grade salt per year. After collection, the salt is washed and stored in pyramid-shaped piles 50 feet in height. It is then loaded on ships and sent to markets in N America and Europe.
In the past African slaves, Indians, and convicts were put to work in the salt flats. Slave quarters were built entirely of stone along the salt pans. Some of these tiny dwellings, in which a man could not stand upright, provided sleeping quarters for up to six people.
CURACAO’s capital, Willemstad, has a historic center with architecture that has been influenced by Dutch colonial architecture. Willemstad is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Curacao is also famous for the liqueurs it produces. The liqueurs are crafted with dried, bitter peels of the Laraha oranges that can only grow in Curacao.

Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao are unique and are blessed with natural beauty and warm and friendly people. A cruise to ABC islands, with a short visit to Grand Cayman, are best visited on a cruise.

Bon Voyage!

21/05/2023

A French Adventure

I spent two months in Paris as a student many years ago and have seen every tourist attraction recommended in the Michelin guide. So, when my husband and I decided to go to France, we wanted to get out of Paris as soon as possible and go straight to the Loire Valley in order to visit its famous castles. We rented a car, put the hotel address in the GPS, and started to drive. We soon found out that the friendly voice that would direct us to our first destination decided to stay quiet. There was no place to stop and impossible to go back to the airport. The “easier” solution was to follow the map, at least until we got out of the city. We drove on, on complicated narrow streets, some closed due to construction. And then it happened, I made a wrong turn…on a one-way street. After avoiding a head-on collision, I decided to stop, make a U-turn, on a very, very narrow street, and park on the sidewalk. I decided not to move until Antoinette, as we called our GPS, would cooperate and give us voice-driving directions. If not, she would be decapitated. Again!
Antoinette obliged! We managed to get out of the city and onto the beautiful Loire Valley.
There are over three hundred castles in the Loire Valley, a river in central France, and fifty of them are open to the public. The French kings loved the Loire Valley and built incredible castles during the 15th and 16th centuries, the time when France experienced its Renaissance.
They are all beautiful and famous: Chambord, Chaumont, and Blois, among others. But none is as famous as Chenonceaux, the most photogenic and therefore the most photographed castle.
Chenonceaux was built in the 16th century on the Cher River. It was given to Henri II of France and his wife Catherine de Medicis. Catherine and Henri married when they were both 14 years old, a political and financial arrangement orchestrated by Pope Clement VII and King Francis I of France. The Medicis were extremely wealthy but did not have a royal lineage. Henri was the second in line for the throne of France at a time when France needed money to fight its wars. A perfect match, each getting what they needed. Following the death of both his father and brother, Henri II became king at the age of 28. He was not in love with his wife and took many mistresses including Diane de Poitiers. Although Diane was twenty years older than Henri, she was his favorite and they lived together as husband and wife. Diane occupied the chief place at Henri’s coronation and all the functions that followed, became his main adviser, and signed all the letters “HenriDiane”. She received from Henri the Crown jewels of France and Chenonceaux castle, the castle that Catherine wanted. Henri visited Catherine only for the purpose of producing heirs to preserve the dynasty. Together they had ten children. Henri died at the age of forty in a jousting accident. With all the power in her hands, Catherine de Medicis confiscated all the jewels from Diane and threw her out of Chenanceaux castle. Diane retired to a much smaller castle where she died at the age of sixty-six. The doctors found in her body gold toxicity 500 times the reference values. Apparently, Diane drank during her life a preparation of gold to preserve her beauty and youth.
Diane was not the only “cougar” in history. Eleanor of Aquitaine, the queen of France and England, the most powerful woman of the Middle Ages, was twelve years older than her second husband, Henry II of England, and currently, French President Emmanuel Macron is twenty-five years younger than his wife Brigitte Macron.
To that I say: “Vive L’amour.”
The way back to the airport in Paris was uneventful, until…Antoinette decided to give us the silent treatment again, at the worst possible time, just as we tried to avoid Paris. Stuck on little narrow streets, with Sacre Coeur church and the Eiffel Tower in view, I knew I was in deep trouble. And then it came, with no way to avoid it, the Arc de Triomphe, a 12-lane roundabout and the largest traffic I could have imagined. I don’t remember how I got out of there, all I remember were the angry drivers and the horn sounds.
Eventually, we made it to the airport. At home, I found two letters from France: two speeding violations.
Adriana’s Awesome Adventures! Never dull!!

Photos: A. Henderson

01/07/2022

ENCOUNTERS in ECUADOR

QUITO
We arrived in Quito at midnight two hours late, hungry and tired, to find out that the hotel did not send the shuttle to pick us up. While I looked for an alternative form of transportation my husband went to find us something to eat. Anything!
We arrived at the hotel at 2 AM. Shower and sleep. With just a few hours of rest we left the next morning to visit this lovely city of many churches - San Francisco, San Domingo, San Augustin, La Compana, La Merced, la Basilica del Voto National. We walked Quito’s narrow and colorful streets, and visited the iconic statue, the Virgin of Panecillo.
Thanks to modern pharmaceuticals we did well at Quito’s 9,000 feet altitude. Quito is the second highest capital in the world. The old town is a UNESCO heritage site with one of the best-preserved historic centers in Spanish America.
Upon our return to the hotel, a frantic manager welcomed us with “bad news.” We had left our clothes to be cleaned but the cleaners had ironed my husband’s travel nylon pants and melted the material causing a huge hole around the knee area. When traveling for three weeks with just carry-on luggage one less pair of pants matters. I suggested my husband wear the pants “as is” and make a fashion statement. He refused. We settled for two glasses of wine, compliments of the hotel.

MITAT DEL MUNDO
Everyone who visits Quito takes the obligatory day trip to Mitad del Mundo, middle of the earth, the equator. While there is a rush to see the popular and crowded “Mitad del Mundo” there is proof now that it is not the real line of the equator. There is another line, some 200 feet away and still another one, the Quisato sundial in the town of Cayambe about 15 miles away. It is in Cayambe that the Quitu people, long before the Spaniards and even before the Incas who conquered them, built a sundial that showed with precision the days, months, solstices and equinoxes. In Quitu language “qui” means middle, and “tu” means earth. Middle of the earth. The equator line runs through the middle of the sundial and the phone GPS will show a latitude of 0° 0’ 0’’. I took THAT as being the equator!

Otavalo market, another 20 miles away was a big disappointment. Small market, little variety, touristic, mostly overpriced junk. Guatemala markets are the real thing, if one can compare!

Next morning, we took the long trip back to the airport to get the car rental for our two-week driving adventure through Ecuador. With a reservation in my hand saying “pay upon pickup” we were told there was no car available because we did not prepay. Thank you, Budget! As I was yelling in both English and Spanish, and possibly Romanian too, a taxi driver approached me to offer to drive us anywhere we wanted. In Ecuador one can take a taxi to any location within the country and the price is quite reasonable. We agreed on a daily rate and off you went.

HACIENDA HATO VERDE, Mulalo
Situated at the bottom of Cotopaxi volcano the elegant hacienda, located in Mulalo, is a working dairy farm. The hacienda advertised horseback riding to the Cotopaxi volcano, but failed to mention that the horses were race horses trained to take off fast as soon as they were mounted. Not a chance for me to mount such an animal! We settled for a walk and a lovely dinner.

BANOS
Next on the agenda was Banos, famous for rafting, mountain biking, canyoning, trekking, zip lining, and …. the swings, including the swing that became the inspiration for all the other swings in Ecuador. Casa del Arbol, also called Swing at the End of the World, flies over the edge of a mountain over a 1.6 mile deep valley. I did it, I can brag about it, and proved my husband wrong when he tried to convince me that I was “too old” to go on a swing!

Jungle trip out of Banos.
Banos is the “Gateway to the Amazon” and day trips can be arranged to visit an indigenous community. Spending a day in this community was the only place in Ecuador we were not required to wear a mask. In fact, a welcoming drink was offered to us and we all drank from the same cup. We also learned how to blow poison arrows from a blowgun. Yup, everybody blew from the same blowgun. Some pandemic! The jungle trip included a special canoe ride, the most notable excitement being the guy in the back of the canoe dumping water out by the bucket loads. Very unnerving! We finished the day with a special meal, a whole fish eyes looking at us, as well as another “special” drink served from one big bowl using one serving drinking cup for all!

RIOBABBA
The following morning, we were ready to move on to our next destination. This is where our car adventures started again. Our hired taxi driver for the trip did not show up. The driver’s “cousin” called an hour later to tell us that the car broke down. I said I will wait! Another hour passed by and the same “cousin” called again with another story. The driver had a drink the night before, someone put a mickey in his drink, he was confused, and actually someone stole his taxi. We hired another taxi to our next destination, Riobamba.

Riobamba’s claim de fame is the Tren del Hielo, the Ice Train, which takes passengers on a journey to see the snow-capped peaks of several volcanos including the famous Chimborazo volcano. Once a week the passengers get to meet Baltazar Uscha, “the last ice man” at the train station in Riobamba. The train did not run, “political reasons”, but I met Baltazar anyway while visiting a small museum in Guano village. You can learn the story of this fascinating man by accessing this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgSIG3qI3Aw
I did spend, however, a half day huffing and puffing trying to go up the Chimborazo but I did not last long. For those who want to take the easy way out, there are donkeys available!

ALAUSI
The Ice Train is not the only famous train ride in Ecuador. There is another train, even more famous, which starts in Alausi and ends in Sibambe. It’s called La Nariz del Diablo, the Devils Nose. It was also closed for “political reasons.” The Devils Nose is a half a mile long stretch of the Andean mountain that is an almost vertical cliff where the engineers had to carve a series of steep switchbacks allowing the train to climb.
Since the train did not work, the next best thing was to hike the nose. Throughout the hike the scenery was utterly spellbinding. Equally beautiful were the indigenous people living in tiny mountain villages wearing native costumes, working and doing their daily jobs as they had done them since the times when the railroad was built.

CUENCA
I wanted to move to Cunca. My husband said he would come visit me. He won the argument. Cuenca is a jewel of a town and the place where I found out that a family member had moved to. Long and bizarre story! Glad to know where you are, Mr. Panama Hat!

There are more than 4,000 varieties of orchids found in Ecuador. That's why Ecuador is called Land of the Orchids. Thousands of varieties of orchids are grown by Ecuagenera, a huge greenhouse in the valley of Gualaceo near Cuenca.

Panama Hat
The Panama hat is not Panamanian at all. In fact, the real name of the hat is toquilla straw hat and originated in Ecuador where it is made entirely. The hats sell between $20 - $100,000, depending on how many weaves are per square inch. They can be found in the show room of Homero Ortega Panama Hats or, for much less, at the Asociación de Toquilleras Maria Auxiliadora in the hills around Cuenca. The women of these hill villages weave constantly even while walking on the street.
If on the market for a “Panama hat” look at this women association and support their skill and their hard work.
Asociación de Toquilleras Maria Auxiliadora | Facebook

Piedra de Agua
The cherry on the cake while visiting Cuenca is a day spent at the thermal spa, Piedra de Agua, on the outskirts of Cuenca. Their 3-hour “spa circuit” includes eight different treatments: Turkish baths, steam baths, subterranean contrast pools, volcanic mud exfoliation treatment, and different mud baths. All for $17.50 on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Yup, I want to move to Cuenca!

GUAYAQUIL
The only reason to go to Guayaquil is to take a flight to the Galapagos. It is a 5-6 hour car trip from Cuenca to Guayaquil through some very uninteresting country. The city is big, crowded, and polluted. I was glad to get out of there. One night in Guayaquil and then Galapagos!

GALAPAGOS
There are two ways to see the Galapagos: on a very expensive cruise or on a not so expensive independently organized tour. We opted for the latter. Great attention has to be given to this option as the ferries that go from island to island as well as the island tours are not given every day. I learned this while there, so I missed visiting one of the islands I wanted to see. Oh well, I am still glad with the outcome of the trip. We saw giant tortoises, blue footed booties, Nazca bo***es, Galapagos seals, and ugly iguanas 😊.
I do not like to be “under the sea” so I cannot report on the underwater activities but my husband swam with reef sharks, Galapagos seals, water iguanas, and thousands and thousands of fish. Yikes!

I did go on a hike on Espanola Island to see the Nazca b***y. Walked over volcanic rock for two hours under the hot sun and almost got a heat stroke. The sun hat did not help, neither did the gallons of water I was drinking. I barely got back to the boat where, as fully dressed as I was, long pants and long sleeve shirt, I got buckets of cold water dumped on me. It took a while to recover! One cannot fool with the power of the Ecuadorian sun! But I did get to see these enigmatic birds who have the hard job of deciding which one of their two off springs gets to live and which one is sacrificed, chased out of the nest so that the other one survives. It’s called siblicide, the practice of pushing one sibling, the weaker one, from the nest by the parents. One will die by starvation, cold or eaten by predators so that the stronger one has a better chance of surviving. Could not help looking at the baby Nazca bo***es and wonder where their siblings were. ☹

Ecuador, I will visit you again! Hasta la vista!
Photos: A. Henderson

06/11/2021

"War is Hell"
The American Civil War killed more than 600,000 soldiers. "War is Hell" was the term coined by general William Sherman of the Union army who, in November 1864, torched the city of Atlanta, Georgia, and subsequently decided to begin his March to the Sea for a final defeat of the Confederate army. Sherman's forces followed a scorched earth campaign, destroying military targets, industry, infrastructure, and civilian property for about 285 miles (459 km) from Atlanta to Savannah.
Despite Sherman’s infamous March to the Sea, some of Georgia’s small towns escaped the torches of the Union soldiers. They are seven communities that can be found today on the so called Antebellum Trail spanning 100 miles. They showcase the beautiful antebellum homes in Victorian, Georgian, Greek Revival, and Neo-classical style.
Antebellum Trail from Macon to Athens, Georgia, USA
Photos: A. Henderson

03/11/2021

Georgia on my mind

Six miles of walking trails. Forty eight hundred cars. Not regular cars, but junk cars. A major tourist attraction in the state of Georgia with people visiting from every single country in the world. So I was told!
And so it is, a photographers' paradise that I was looking forward to visit since I read about it. And what better time for a road trip that fall, fall colors complementing the corrugated rusted metal of the cars. Mangled cars with broken windows that lie across the forest floor covered with leaves, pine needles, vines, and trees.
Dilemma is how I am going to arrange the more than four hundred pictures I took. Should I arrange them by car manufacturer, by model, by year, by color...This is from an OCD girl who arranges her medicine cabinet by box size. Not to worry, her ADHD husband quickly messes it all up! :)
I am going to leave it like this, all a mish mash of cars, trucks, vans, school buses, lined up in rows or haphazardly thrown one on top of the other.
Old Car City USA, White, Georgia

Photos: A. Henderson

28/10/2021

Cruising the Caribbean

The Caribbean Islands, one of the world's premier travel destinations, are located in the Caribbean Sea between North America and South America. There are over 7,000 islands that form 25 independent countries and other territories. The predominant languages are English, Spanish, French, Dutch and Antillean creole.
Caribbean culture has been influenced by European and African cultures. Music is the most recognizable aspect of the Caribbean culture with sounds of reggae, meringue, calypso, and rumba being distinctly Caribbean.
Due to the close proximity of many Caribbean islands, many travelers choose to cruise around the region going from island to island to experience a variety of scenery in one trip: pristine white beaches, turquoise waters featuring colorful fish and striking coral reefs, verdant mountains, cascading waterfalls.
Cruising the Caribbean: play by day, party by night.

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