18/01/2022
Jamaica’s beating heart has remained somewhat overlooked by holidaymakers, not least because of its long-held rough-around-the-edges rep. But the dynamic capital is shrugging off its unsafe image, claiming a new identity as a spirited cultural hub overflowing with multicultural restaurants, world-class galleries and carnivals to rival the spectacles of Rio.
And 2022 poses a prime opportunity for Jamaica, as the year marks the country’s 60th anniversary of Independence. Festivities will be held throughout the island all year and, come August, the Jamaica Carnival (Bacchanal) will flood the streets with feather headdresses, floats and stirring steelpan drums.
Out of town, hidden cultural enclaves cling like limpets to the land. School of Vision – an active commune and guest house celebrating Rastafarian culture – is reached via a short, sharp trek into the Blue Mountains; visit on the Saturday sabbath and you’ll be welcomed by a glorious cacophony of Nyahbinghi music, dancing and drumming.
Kingston’s surf beaches are also luring in ahead-of-the-curve crowds. Sidestep the no-longer-golden Hellshire Beach to the west and busy Bull Bay to the east and instead join those in the know on the fine-milled sands lining the north coast. Runaway Bay, near the resort town of Ocho Rios, is a fine spot for medium-level surfers and, if you can navigate the pesky corals and urchins, Makka beach, which hosts the island’s only pro surfing contest, offers world-class tubes. If that prospect is too pedestrian, head to the lesser-known ‘DNA’ nearby. The reef break here produces steep, hollow waves. It’s dramatic to observe, but as a TOAD beach (meaning Take Off And Die), it should only be tackled by expert boarders.