13 Degrees of Patagonia

11/05/2017

You can read the report for Chaltén to Calafate now on the Mountain Designs blog. It was a wild ride down Lago Viedma and accross the grass plains of Argentina.

http://www.mountaindesigns.com/blog/news/13-degrees-of-patagonia-part-three-chalten-to-calafate

Luke and Jason from 13 Degrees of Patagonia recently became the first people to packraft from Puerto Chacabuco to Caleta Tortel via the Northern Patagonian Icecap. In total, they travelled 457km in 29 days. Here’s the final part of their incredible journey.

05/05/2017

Hey Team,

Apologies for the wait! We will have content rolling out from today. There will be photos, a blog update from Mountain Designs and film from some of the epic moments in Patagonia.

To get you started, here’s Jason enjoying the late afternoon in San Rafael Lagoon during our month around the Northern Patagonian Icecap. This was our first encounter with the Ice Cap after a rough 10 days of approach. Worth it.

Cheers,
Luke

18/01/2017

Hey team,
After much deliberation Jason and I have come to the decision to not complete the final leg of the 13 Degrees of Patagonia project. The tolls on the mind and body are beginning to mount and we beleive the costs of completing the next leg will far outweigh the benefits.
This was not an easy decision.

From here Jason will travel north to see more of what Chile has to offer. I will go south to Puerto Williams to see the intended finish line of the project as this is my second attempt at reaching the far south.
There will be more posts to follow.
-Luke

12/01/2017

Check out the report for our Caleta Tortel to Chalten leg of the trip, now with more mountaineering cows.
http://www.mountaindesigns.com/blog/news/13-degrees-of-patagonia-part-2-the-mad-mountain-cows

In the second instalment of 13 Degrees of Patagonia, Luke and Jason battle unforgiving storms, meet a mad mountain cow and overcome rough conditions to get to the next milestone of their 1800km journey trekking and packrafting across Patagonia.

10/01/2017

Arrived in Calafate after an interesting final day of paddling and trekking. A cruisy float to finish La Leona river before trekking the bank of Lago Argentina - too windy to paddle. Herds of Guanaco and Rhea ( small Patagonian ostrich type bird ) were abundant in the grass plains and dunes.

Calafate has an international airport with a flight path over the plains. It was strange to have Boeing jets flying low over us as we struggled against the elements into town. Time for a well earned rest now.

08/01/2017

Today was a gem of a day. Paddled 40km down La Leona river in the sun. The river was wide and fast flowing with only a few small rapids to navigate.

Paddling through a very different landscape to what we are used to - very dry grass plains with few shubs and no trees. The mountains are small and built with sand and sedimentary rock. 20m high mud cliffs skirt the bends in river with large birds nests carved into the soft surfaces.

Herds of Guanaco running around all day with the occasional ostrich making a fleeting appearance.

Camped on the river delta. Jason even caught a fish to finish off the day perfectly.
50.1278S - 72.0139W

07/01/2017

Little sleep after a windy night threatened to break the tent, no protection in the open fields to be found.

Lake Viedma far too rough to consider paddling. Trekked 10km to the far end of the lake, seeing an ostrich streak accross one of the grass planes. Guanaco herds are also about, a bizarre creature to my eyes.

From the end of the lake the wind picked up even more so we road trekked south. From here we can start to paddle the river La Leona - slang for Puma. Camped on its banks now ready for a big day tomorrow. Its fast flowing but wide - will make an excellent 50km of paddling.
49.8219S- 72.0464W

06/01/2017

Another paddle day on Lake Viedma. Windy this morning so we hiked until midday when the wind died down before launching into the lake.

Plenty of wildlife and farmland here. The rolling grass plains have a birds of all shapes and sizes including some gigantic eagles. Grazing animals abound with sheep, rams, cows and horses to be seen.
It was Lukes turn today to be hit by a wave and thrown from his boat. A cold dip but thankfully close to shore with all gear recovered. Conditions worsened with wind and waves battering the boats. Moved inland to make camp for the night.

Closing in on 50° degrees south the nights are getting very short with the sun going down around 10pm and up at 5am.
49.6561S - 72.0513W.

04/01/2017

Started the day with a trek down lake to find a calmer launch spot to no avail. Launched into the waves with a proper icy drenching.

Strong winds and rough water throughout the day made for stressful paddling, constantly checking over our shoulders for freak waves. Both hit a few times Jason knocked out his boat once but we recovered and got to shore.

Late afternoon we tried hiking inland on the grass plains to get warm and dry before camp. Made good ground before finding a flat protected spot.

Winds are biting today, clear skys meaning wind straight off the ice capped mountains down lake. Coldest we have both been since the Northern Ice Cap.

49.5896S - 72.3397W

04/01/2017

Busy day on the lake. Woke up early to try a crossing in front of the glacier to the far side of the lake with no luck. Strong winds blew us back. Decided to move around lake clockwise instead to reduce risk. Only 70km to the far end.

Tail winds helped for the most part of the day. Two storm fronts moved through creating big swells. Both Jason and Luke hit by waves and knocked into shore. Waited it out and kept paddling. Second storm front loomed late in the afternoon. Climbed up a sandy cliff to find shelter as it hit.
Camped for the night now in a protected grassy ditch.
49.4991S - 72.6403W

02/01/2017

We have left Chalten after a good new years break. Managed to fit in an overnight hike to see the Fitzroy mountains and Jason got some climbing done with new friends.

Left late new years day and walked south out to Lago Viedma. A wild and windy night but the tent held strong. Met a group of Russians this morning finishing their own paddle as we started ours.

Currently waiting out some strong winds and watching an iceberg get pummelled by the surf. Bliss.
49.4854S - 72.9105W

27/12/2016

We have arrived in Chalten. 17 days since we departed from Caleta Tortel to paddle south. Whilst this leg had a different nature to the ice cap it was just as rewarding. Challenges were no less frequent with extreme weather conditions, long ocean crossings, a mountain that turned us around and a lake crossing that nearly got us arrested.

The last week in particular has seen us cross the border into Argentina, giving us the chance to meet other travelers taking the road less followed. Chalten will no doubt prove an inspirational place to rest our feet.

26/12/2016

Feliz Navidad!
Crossed the lake safely and landed on the far side ready to enter Argentina. Passport control was not difficult to find as they found us pretty quickly. Turns out we didnt have the correct authorisation from the Chilean Armada. After an exciting reception they let us go and we trekked inland towards the border.

Christmas Morning was great fun, a quick present swap and calls home to family followed by a big (rehydrated) Christmas lunch. Beautiful lush green forest hiking, on a path! What a novelty. Crossed the border and enjoyed Christmas in two countries.

Reached Lago Diseirto and made camp ready to paddle accross the next day. The Fitz Roy mountains lay at the end of the lake looking spectacular in the setting sun.

Jason caught 3 rainbow trout this morning! Cooking them up now to share with some other trekkers. He was up at 5.30 am in the cold determined to make a catch.
48.9998S - 72.8381W

24/12/2016

After some rest and recovery in Villa O'Higgens we are back into the action and heading south. We left town this morning and walked to Lago O'Higgens. This lake forms part of the border between Chile and Argentina.

The lake is extremely windy with white caps and swells that would make you think you are in the ocean. A crowd of cyclists who caught a boat accross warned us it would be a dangerous paddle. Lucky for us this wind powerhouse is pushing us straight south, we made 30km this afternoon with its aid.

With this shorter leg our food rations have increased, a great mood booster.

Currently camped on a rocky beach tucked up into the bush to avoid the worst of the wind.
48.7432S - 72.5556W

18/12/2016

Decided to reverse our route to exit the mountains. Refinding our own route in the labyrinth is a good navigational exercise to say the least.

Encountered a mad mountaineering cow, which makes three of us. A few slips and tumbles but all up as good an exit as you could ask for.

The base of the mountain hits the lake directly, giving about a meter of rock to inflate the packrafts and power off into the cold water. Made camp just on 8pm on Lake Bergues again. The cold here bites less but still nips.

The massive ice berg that was here has disappeared, no doubt drifted further down the lake.

Current plan is to make our way to Villa O'Higgins to lick wounds and resupply.
48.3273S - 73.2439W.

17/12/2016

Paddled Lake Bergues with its many bergs. Gigantic ice bergs drifiting pass, 40 meters tall and 100 meters long. Jason was a small red speck paddling by them.

We left the lake and began our most demanding mountain pass yet, aiming for an alpine lake. With heavy packs we climbed 800 meters towards a saddle between the ice capped mountains. Rock and loose grass gave way to a soft mossy plateau. Heavy rain all day. Many waterfalls cascading in on all sides. Bypassed a huge verticle canyon system, steel grey rock and pale blue glacier water. A few tricky river crossings, fast flowing and stinging cold.

Late afternoon yesterday we felt defeat. Big storms and extreme cold making moving difficult. Our final pass on the other side of the valley is very exposed to the elements. We have discussed it at length and have decided to play it safe and plan to exit the mountains towards a more round about and safer route.

Coldest night of the trip so far, fresh snow this morning with two frozen and smelly campers. 48.3201S - 73.1582W

15/12/2016

Today we left the fjords behind. Moved inland on a dirt road with old farmland and some wild horses. Explored another abandoned living quarters adjacent to a small grassy airfeild. No recent signs of people.

Continued inland and moved over the shoulder of the mountains to avoid the swamp but unfortunately got cliffed out. Another dodgy decent down a cliff face.

The valley floor was surprisingly easy going terrain. Made it to Lake Bergues and saw our first wild deer. Found a camp at the spicey end of a rock slide.
48.2868S - 73.2834W

13/12/2016

2 big paddle days. High cross winds making for some bumpy ocean crossings, both of us taking on a bit of water. Our largest ocean crossing so far - 9km. Island hopping down the fjord thanks to local advice in Caleta Tortel - less direct but better access to campsites. Great beach front camping on solid ground. Our camp last night had an abandoned hut nearby.

A dry-ish stretch of weather makes for a great mood booster. Its a real treat to be able to wake up and get ready and not be cold and wet.

Ice bergs peppering the water as we approach the southern ice feild. 48.2104S - 73.3519W

13/12/2016

Back on the fjords! After a frustrating wait at Caleta Tortel we are back paddling south again. Local help was fantastic with the resupply.

High winds for the last day of paddling and some big ocean crossings coming up, should be a fun combination. 47.9728S - 73.6305W

09/12/2016

Jason soaking up the serenity whilst exploring the ice flow. This was one of many glacial flows coming from the Northern Patagonian Icecap that we passed through and around during our first leg.

07/12/2016

Luke all patched up thanks to the local doctor. Logistical frustrations with our resupply are giving us a couple of days forced rest. Making the most of it by drying and repairing gear and getting plenty of food and downtime. Keen to be back on the fjords ASAP.

05/12/2016

Leg one complete. After 29 days in the wilderness Jason and I are the first people to Packraft from Puerto Chacabuco to Caleta Tortel via the Northern Patagonian Icecap.
It is important to note that the Chonos and Kawésqar people paddled these fjords, climbed these mountain passes and called our camps home long before our arrival. It has been a privilege to gain an insight to their lives.

05/12/2016

A delightfully easy going day. Paddling towards Calera Tortel, final stretch for the ice cap leg of the trip. Extra rations today and tomorrow, two very happy campers right here. Should get to town either late Monday or early Tuesday local time. Getting excited for such luxeries as food, warmth and dry clothes. Its still raining, but feeling great. 47.8027S - 73.8204W

05/12/2016

Most challenging section of the trip so far. Started with an open ocean crossing to head south followed by 20km of ocean paddling in calmer conditions. A pod of whales passed us in the fjord! One breached 15m away from us, Black with a pointed dorsal fin and about 20m long. At the fjord terminus we began a steep accent up our final mountain pass, high angle rock and scrub scramble. Camped on a rocky outcrop with veiws of the fjord 200m below us.

New days with relentless rain. Climbed to the peak in the wet. New climb we are calling "Gunslinger's Downpour" grade 12, must be done with heavy pack and in rain. The final climb we pumped in 45 minutes. The decent down the other side took 4 and half hours. Stressful uncertain conditions. Luke slipped down a rock slab and gashed his hand. Very exposed area so quick compression bandage and then on with it. Jason led the charge down extremely steep valley, dicey down scrambling and controlled falls. Hit the ocean mid afternoon and paddled 5km to make the most of the day. No break from the rain all day. Tent triage this evening, butterfly strips to hold the hand together until Caleta Tortel. 47.7669S- 74.0946W

02/12/2016

The sea was angry today. White caps, high winds and storm fronts rolling into the fjord one after another knocking us backwards. Pushed hard for 7km and managed to round the head of the fjord. The afternoon brought large swells at a more exposed coastline, dicey conditions but we got through. Encountered our first sea lion also. Stashed the rafts in the bush and trekked inland to find a secure camp spot. Great views of the ocean and tomorrows crossing. 47.5879S- 74.2498W

01/12/2016

Mountain pass achieved! Portage between fjords done in a little over a day. Tougher than expected, spent a night up high with 360 degree veiws of mountains topped with ice and snow. High winds. Terrain ranged from lush mossy forest to steep scrambling with collapsing undergrowth. Would not recommend.

After a treacherous decent this morning we made it to the new fjord, happy to be back on open water. Currently camped by the water with more ice and mountains as a backdrop. Enjoying some muscles Jason foraged this evening. 3 days of rain, hoping for sun soon. 47.4904S - 74.1846W

29/11/2016

Two of the best days so far. Towed our packrafts upriver into the mountains. Trecked through some thigh deep moss to reach our next glacial lagoon. Spent a morning exploring out into the ice on packrafts and on foot. Bergs ranged from the size of cars to the size of appartment blocks. We then paddled the outflow river south to the coast with some managable rapids in the ice cold water. A late finish in the fjords with high cliffs and big seas blocking any landing until just on dark. Todays paddle was directly south through a fjord skirted by steep mountains with awe inspiring cliffs. Countless waterfalls streaming in on all sides, it is a magical place. Both winds and tide in our favour, made excellent ground. Next we have a short mountain pass to get through but both feeling pumped. 47.3770S- 74.0375W

26/11/2016

Surprisingly enjoyable day today. Long pack march on the beach in the sun and an afternoon paddle in the rain crossing a lagoon. Heading off the coast and back into more mountainous terrain now. 46.9933S - 73.9708W

25/11/2016

Had an amazing day paddling through densely packed icebergs, the best day of packrafting so far to be sure. Paddled out on a drainage river and quickly arrived at the ocean ready to head south again tomorrow. 46.8608S - 74.1465W

23/11/2016

Another tough day of unforgiving terrain. Moving is slow and hard won. Still, when we do get our fatigue induced stops you can appreciate the striking beauty of our surroundings. Small frogs abound, lots of otter tracks and plenty of birdlife to keep us company. 46.7973S- 73.9711W

23/11/2016

Super tough day today. Moving through thick undergrowth to bog and waist deep muck. Feeling the wear and tear of the past two weeks. Low energy. Hoping to make it to our second glacier tomorrow. 46.7636 S- 73.9728W

22/11/2016

Crossed the Rafael Lagoon today, huge ice bergs and a large glacial flow coming from the ice cap. A pretty special day of paddling. Short land crossing now before more ice. 46.7159S - 73.9884W

20/11/2016

There's no shortcuts in Patagonia. Yesterday we tried to cut inland and save 15 kilometers of paddeling, only to be met with waist deep murder terrain. Never a dull day here down South.