France of a Lifetime Tours

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France of a Lifetime Tours Harmonizing France’s cultural richness with superb service to offer a lavish and seamless vacation.
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Ben’s Birthday trip exploring Normandy was primarily focused on the D-Day invasion sites and memorials and museums dedic...
07/04/2024

Ben’s Birthday trip exploring Normandy was primarily focused on the D-Day invasion sites and memorials and museums dedicated to the Battle of Normandy. We’ve posted a couple of things about them already that are not performing well compared to our normal content. Not many likes and no comments. Which seems to indicate that you, dear reader, are not interested in WWII history in Northern France. Would love to know if that’s true?

We strive to provide meaningful content and I totally get it if you’re not interested in war, especially while on vacation! But there is something incredibly powerful about visiting Normandy as an American. (I imagine the same is true for the British and Canadians.)

I don’t know about you, but my history classes and books were imbued with a deep sense of pride at what we all helped to accomplish by infiltrating Hitler’s Atlantic Wall. The French are deeply grateful for the Allied assistance and what’s amazing is it’s still obvious to this day! There are signs – literal signs – of appreciation everywhere and I haven’t seen so many American flags since driving through Texas!

Imagining what “our boys” (as they said back then) went through to arrive on those beaches, littered with both sea- and landmines plus countless other fortifications, to push the N***s back further and further… It’s incredible to actually be there in the same locations, hearing moving stories of heroic men doing exactly what they were trained to do, no matter how difficult the circumstances were.

But even more poignant, to me, is that these horrific beaches— Omaha was the most deadly— are now serene places of seashell hunting, dog-walking, and joyful family gatherings, complete with wine and children playing in the sand. Exactly as it should be. And thus fulfilling the purpose of it all, precisely the reason why every one of those men fought and died: freedom for future generations.

At the American cemetery in Colleville, there is a perfectly manicured lawn of bright green grass planted with gleaming white headstones, mostly Christian crosses with a few of the Jewish Star of David, as far as the eye can see. They seem to disappear over the hill, spilling out onto Omaha beach and the sea, where many of them died. The trees lining the huge grassy rows of white are all cut in a certain way– like a trapezoid– a narrow triangle missing its top. This is symbolic, to represent the young lives cut short, never allowed to expand to the fullest extent they could have.

I cried at least once every day, overcome with gratitude for every single life lost that allowed so many others to not only live, but eventually thrive. Perhaps part of why I felt this so strongly is there is a permeable, collective sense of appreciation that still lingers in the air 80 years later.

Visiting these sites can be emotionally exhausting, but it’s so important to remember what happened and why, and to feel appreciation for the people who gave up their lives for freedom.

It’s an unforgettable experience.

Would love to know if the D-Day invasion and Battle of Normandy are interesting to you? I have several stories to tell, but not much spare time to write and would rather create content YOU actually like! Please let me know if you’re over it or if you’d be interested in more! Merci ! 😘

Today is the first anniversary of the official birth of France of a Lifetime Tours!!! 🥳 It’s been an amazing year, full ...
23/03/2024

Today is the first anniversary of the official birth of France of a Lifetime Tours!!! 🥳 It’s been an amazing year, full of immense learning and growth, and we are so proud of our little baby! Being a French corporation, it was much more difficult to set up than our previous two businesses, but all of the time and effort has been worth it. (Bureaucracy is definitely a French word – perhaps even an art form!)

We would like to say “merci beaucoup !” to every partner we’ve had the pleasure of working with, every follower on social media, every friend who liked and shared our posts, and especially to all the amazing clients who have trusted us to create their fabulous French vacations!!!

I’m extremely grateful to be involved in an industry and country I’m deeply passionate about. I’m proud to be an ambassador between two cultures, helping Americans to discover the joy and beauty of France and the French people. I’m delighted to spend every day focused on all the things I love about life in France.

Thank you all from the bottom of our hearts! 🙏 We appreciate your trust and support. Cannot wait to see what wonderful things the next year brings for France of a Lifetime!! 🥂

Photo: It’s an American custom for a small business to place the first dollar earned in a frame. We decided to think big with our first business and did a $100 bill instead. Unfortunately, ATMs here don’t provide bills higher than the 50€ and the bank was closed the day I decided to finish the project. C’est la vie – the orange-y color of the 50s looks better with our logo anyway! 😆

17/03/2024

Ben and I had an amazing experience riding Sulkies along the beautiful beach in Cabourg to celebrate his birthday! One of the highlights of our Normandy trip and such a joyful contrast with all the WWII landing sites and museums we visited. I couldn't stop giggling!

The photographer also did an incredible job with stills and drone footage which allowed us to be fully present in the moment. Will be posting the photos soon along with details on how you can have this unforgettable experience on your own Normandy adventure!

12/03/2024

There are two flags flying over the graves of the American men who died on D-Day and the days that followed. They are each lowered in a solemn ceremony every day at 4pm.

It was incredibly emotional and I cried the entire time as both were slowly lowered and folded up. I especially loved how the gentleman in the video took off his hat and placed it over his heart. 🥹

Thank you to every soldier who lost their lives in order to secure the freedom of others. We are all forever grateful for your sacrifice.

We returned home just before midnight last night from an incredible 9 day trip to Normandy for Ben’s Birthday. We planne...
10/03/2024

We returned home just before midnight last night from an incredible 9 day trip to Normandy for Ben’s Birthday. We planned this trip also as a reconnaissance mission for a small group tour we want to create for D-Day 2025 (June 6). We were exploring the entire time, seeing everything we possibly could and now my feet and legs are refusing to move!

Ben is particularly interested in WWII (which means I am too, after all the documentaries I’ve watched with him!), so that was the focus of our vacation. It was an indescribable experience to see the exact locations where American, Canadian and British forces landed in France to liberate the people and push the Nazi’s back until final defeat in Germany.

Hearing the detailed stories and seeing the personal items of the individual men involved was heart-wrenching and I cried much more than expected. Gratitude bubbled up in me at every site, every museum, every story. The vast and varied challenges these guys went through to achieve the ultimate goal of freedom is mind-boggling compared to the life I’ve been blessed with.

Even if you’re not well-versed or that interested in D-Day, this is a once-in-a-lifetime MUST DO experience. Ben made a comment after the final invasion museum we visited: “Every world leader and politician needs to tour at least one war museum every year. They need to be reminded of the consequences of their actions.” I couldn’t agree more because these places reinforce how precious life and freedom are. It’s so easy to take both for granted when you’re living well, but freedom can disappear in the blink of an eye and once that happens, lives will be lost en masse.

These are not the happy-go-lucky experiences we usually create for clients, but they are extremely important to remember and pass on to future generations. We were impressed to see numerous school groups of all ages visiting the same sites. At the Memorial of Caen Museum (excellent for an overall picture of WWII), there was a mixed group of students from about 12 down to 5 and 6 year old French children. The guide always had the younger children at the front and a couple of props they could see and touch.

The most heart-breaking moment was when I turned the corner into the room dedicated to the Jewish and Gypsy children that were shipped off to concentration camps. There was a school group with about 8 six-year-old children all touching a small suitcase very similar to the one that once belonged to a real little boy in the display above them. They looked from the one above to the one they were touching and I know they understood some of the significance. Incredibly moving. 🥹

But our trip also incorporated joyous experiences like riding Sulkies along a long stretch of beach! Normandy is a huge area for horses in general and they often have various races (that you can bet on!) and horse stud shows. (We would have loved to attend a race, but unfortunately they were scheduled for the week before or after our trip. There will definitely be a race on the small group tour though!) So, the Sulkies are basically a two-person seated chariot pulled by a horse both in the water and along the beach. I giggled the entire time! It was absolutely exhilarating and so beautiful, with blue sky above and the sea lapping near.

We wanted to be fully present (and not drop our phones during the galloping!), so we hired a professional photographer. The images and drone video will be coming soon. This was a great value and definitely recommend that you consider a photographer for certain experiences on your own vacations. It’s really nice to know you can be fully present AND get great photo souvenirs!

Besides the amazing and thought-provoking experiences, we also had a few incredible meals! Restaurant L hirondelle stands out as the favorite because of the pure kindness of the restaurateurs. Ben wanted to keep his actual birthday open for spontaneity, which sounds great, except it was a Sunday. When lunchtime came, we had no reservations and only knew of closed restaurants in the area, so I turned to google and found l'Hirondelle. It said they were open till 4pm and had excellent reviews, so off we went on a short 15 minute drive through beautiful countryside. We arrived at 2pm, which is usually too late to be seated for lunch in France, however Françoise and her husband were kind enough to offer a beautiful table and a delicious meal. (There is an even better story here, but I want to tell it fully in a separate post. Stay tuned!)

The most fun experience of all though was finally meeting Shu Milne and Rob at their gorgeous property, Le Pressoir de la Vieville. They are two of the most gracious and thoughtful hosts I’ve had the pleasure of meeting. We’ve probably had 50-ish zoom calls with Shu, as she was designing beautiful custom artwork for us, so we felt like we already knew her. But staying at one of their lovely gites, sharing meals and plenty of laughs together, we now consider Shu and Rob as dear friends. Their kindness and welcoming spirit cannot be matched and I highly recommend a stay at Le Pressoir!

They are in the perfect location for WWII stuff and day trips to Mont-Saint-Michel, Etretcht, Honfleur, Deauville and many other adorable villages and perfect beaches. Shu and Rob also have a lovely pool and hot tub (unfortunately way too cold for our trip!) and if you’ve very lucky, you may get invited to an informal party in their Maserati Lounge!

There will be MANY more stories, details and tips to come about all the places we experienced in Normandy! But for now, it’s time to finally relax and watch a movie! Have a wonderful Sunday!

The French word ‘souvenir’ translates as ‘memory’ which is perfect because that’s exactly why you purchase souvenirs: to...
06/03/2024

The French word ‘souvenir’ translates as ‘memory’ which is perfect because that’s exactly why you purchase souvenirs: to remember an adventure. I realized most of our souvenirs this trip are books!

Clockwise from center beginning with the Normandy flag. We started collecting little flags from each country we’ve visited since our honeymoon in 2007. After moving to France, we now seek out regional flags as well. It’s actually the perfect thing to collect because they take up little decorative space and are excellent reminders of many fabulous vacations all at once!

The French picture dictionary is going to be ideal for daily study in weak areas of basic everyday French. It’s organized by category: animals, in the kitchen, emotions, body parts etc. So will be super helpful in strengthening vocab.

The water bottle is to replace Ben’s old tattered one. The green coating is slip-proof, which is really nice. He’s always been fascinated by the WWII events and the time period in general so it’s a perfect souvenir for him!

Dans Paris Occupé (In Occupied Paris) is a journal kept by a Parisian girl living under German Occupation. It’s a junior reader in French, so should be just above my current reading level and a perfect scaffold for my language learning.

All the Light We Cannot See is a fantastic Netflix show (you should definitely check it out!), so very eager for the expanded version of the story in book form. Will likely start this one as soon as I finish my current book!

Follett is one of my favorite historical fiction novelists. Pillars of the Earth is one of my all-time favorite novels because it illustrates the everyday life of people in the Medieval period with more accuracy than most historical authors. Couldn’t leave the Bayeux Tapestry museum without this book and really happy to support their new museum complex by purchasing it through them rather than Amazon.

These are the souvenirs we’ve collected so far on our Normandy trip. What things do you like to buy as ‘memories’ of your adventures? Do you have any souvenirs that are prized possessions that you would gather if the house is burning down?

We took an exceptional D-Day tour yesterday. We visited so many key sights in the invasion and heard some incredible sto...
05/03/2024

We took an exceptional D-Day tour yesterday. We visited so many key sights in the invasion and heard some incredible stories. Like a radio officer who was shot in the jaw upon landing on Omaha Beach but still managed to communicate their positions, despite missing half his face. When his radio was shot and damaged, he found broken radios on the beach and repaired his own so he could complete his objective. We saw the American cemetery where he is likely buried next to countless other brave soldiers with similar stories.

It’s pouring down rain here today, so we’re off to a couple more D-Day museums. If you’re at all interested in the events that occurred here 80 years ago, you should definitely visit the area. It’s incredibly moving to imagine what those young men were facing and how they were able to succeed in their objectives despite horrific circumstances.

It’s going to take some time to properly tell all the stories from our Normandy trip. Stay tuned for more!

We received such a warm welcome from our lovely hostess at our gîte (apartment stay) yesterday! We’re staying at Le Pres...
01/03/2024

We received such a warm welcome from our lovely hostess at our gîte (apartment stay) yesterday! We’re staying at Le Pressoir de la Vieville near Bayeux and Shu flew the American flag so we could easily find her beautiful property. She had fresh daffodils and primroses waiting, as well as a bottle of cider, fresh eggs, and a local Normandy cheese and butter.

We prefer renting apartments to have access to a kitchen, but it’s also wonderful to get to know locals and support small businesses. In this case, we’ve known Shu online for almost two years. (In fact, do you remember our first logo? Shu hand-painted it and the original hangs over our desk!) It is so nice to meet her in person and enjoy a glass of bubbly together!!

We’ll share much more about our stay later, but for now it’s time to start exploring Normandy!

Travel Trivia TuesdayToday is French Travel Trivia Tuesdays! Put your knowledge to the test and see if you can answer th...
20/02/2024

Travel Trivia Tuesday

Today is French Travel Trivia Tuesdays! Put your knowledge to the test and see if you can answer this week's question without asking Google or Siri! Bonne chance !

Question: Spring is almost here! Many farmers' fields are about to burst into vibrant hues of yellow and gold as flowers bloom and crops ripen under the warming sun. Without looking it up, what is this beautiful crop growing behind us?

A. Mustard
B. Soybean
C. Sunflower
D. Rapeseed

18/02/2024

It was early January when we reached out to Susan Walter, of Loire Valley Time Travel Tours, a local day trip tour operator, to arrange a tour of Loches in the Loire Valley. We were particularly interested in visiting this cute town and chateau, as its donjon/keep is one of the oldest stone structures in France. We're creating a tour highlighting France's oldest buildings, so this promised to be both an enjoyable and educational excursion.

Setting out just after daybreak, Mallory's video captures the cold, crisp morning air, with the late-rising sun casting a serene ambiance as we headed east down the A10 autoroute. Our tour promptly commenced upon meeting Susan in town after parking at the train station. As we ascended uphill towards the city wall and gatehouse, Susan expertly narrated the evolving history of different sections of the town over time. Below is a brief overview of Loches through time.

Located in the picturesque Loire Valley of France, Loches boasts a rich history dating back over two millennia. This charming town has witnessed numerous significant events throughout the centuries. With its origins tracing back to Gallo-Roman times, Loches grew in importance during the Middle Ages, serving as a strategic stronghold. This imposing castle complex features a massive donjon/keep, medieval walls, gatehouses, and the Agnès Sorel Tower, which stand as a testament to its medieval prominence.

Loches played a pivotal role in the Hundred Years' War and was a favored residence of French royalty. Notably, it was here that Joan of Arc met with Charles VII in 1429, a meeting that played a crucial role in her mission to liberate France from English rule. Over time, Loches transitioned into a bustling market town and a center for arts and culture. Today, it retains its medieval charm, attracting visitors with its well-preserved historic sites, large weekly market and vibrant atmosphere.

Susan was able to explain all of this history in a concise and meaningful way. After about three hours of strolling and chatting, we took a pleasant lunch break before concluding our tour, which spanned about eight hours. We discussed and learned about the disproportionately small town compared to its vast history.

I have suggested in earlier posts that it is always helpful to read about a site you are going to visit to understand its historical context and make the experience more meaningful. Even after studying Loche’s history for a few days, Susan's guidance proved invaluable, addressing spontaneous inquiries and enhancing our appreciation of the site's depth and significance. This reinforced the importance of a knowledgeable guide in fully unlocking the nuances of any historic destination. With her wealth of knowledge and passion for the region, Susan enriched our understanding of Loches' past and left us with lasting memories of an unforgettable journey through time. We highly recommend her and Loire Valley Time Travel Tours.

So far this year, Ben and I have been busy! We created 5 custom vacations and 2 small group tours, plus 4 more currently...
14/02/2024

So far this year, Ben and I have been busy! We created 5 custom vacations and 2 small group tours, plus 4 more currently in the works! Ben's Birthday is in 18 days and now it's time to add planing our own getaway!!

As you know, we're obsessed with France so when I suggested possibly heading to a neighboring country, Ben said "but there's so much to explore here!" I couldn't agree more. Plus it's advantageous to stay in France tax-wise. 😉

So he decided he wants to spend a week or so in Normandy! We'll visit the D-day landing beaches 3 months and 3 days prior to the 80th anniversary of the Allied landings. We'll explore picturesque and historic towns, including Rouen where Joan of Arc was imprisoned before being burnt at the stake.

We'll finally see the Bayeux Tapestry in person, which chronicles the Norman invasion of England in 1066 that ended with William the Conqueror on the English throne. We'll eat lots of Camembert and drink plenty of hard cider and Calvados. Can you tell I'm just as excited for Ben's Birthday as he is?!?

We have the best jobs ever---bringing joy to people's lives and transformation through new experiences and expanded perceptions. Plus all of that on-the-ground research that must be done! I'm forever grateful to spend the foreseeable future deeply exploring my favorite place on Earth: France! I'm also grateful to all of you who have joined us along the way! Merci !

Where are you headed in 2024? Even if it's not international travel, new experiences await around every corner!

Answer to yesterday’s travel planning question was actually D. 6 days! Everyone guessed 8, so we’re doing well over here...
19/01/2024

Answer to yesterday’s travel planning question was actually D. 6 days! Everyone guessed 8, so we’re doing well over here meeting and beating expectations! 😁

We received the request from a new B2B partner late Wednesday night last week and got started first thing, because the clients are traveling next month!

So we worked on it all day Thursday, Friday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and yesterday—6 days. (Saturday we worked on another client’s project still in the beginning stages and took Sunday off! 🍕🎬)

Here’s page 8 of 28 that shows everything included in the highly recommended Paris only portion. (I really hope they don’t select a Switzerland option for their own sake!!)

If you’re interested in visiting France, we would love to create YOUR dream trip!! 🤩

We just submitted a 28 page tour proposal for a private client! 😅 They have 5 nights total and were hoping to visit Pari...
18/01/2024

We just submitted a 28 page tour proposal for a private client! 😅 They have 5 nights total and were hoping to visit Paris and take the train to Switzerland. While it’s only a 3-4 hour journey each way, it would eat up at least 7-9 hours of prime exploration time, not to mention hauling their luggage through train stations and up/down platform stairs. We stressed it’s not an ideal experience for one’s first trip to France, but we always meet client requests, so we proposed two options for Paris to Switzerland and one for just Paris.

Hence the 28 pages! 🤪

Clients also always come first, so I missed this week’s Travel Trivia question. To make up for it, here’s a travel planning question. How long do you think it took to plan, budget and design three different versions of a 5 night trip?

A. Three Days
B. Eight Days
C. Five Days
D. Six Days

Only one person answered yesterday’s trivia question, so it must have been too challenging! Château de Brézé is a little...
10/01/2024

Only one person answered yesterday’s trivia question, so it must have been too challenging! Château de Brézé is a little known, but fascinating château in the Center-Val de Loire region. It’s only 10 km (6.2 miles) from our home in Saumur and we love taking our personal visitors here because it’s relatively unique compared to the more well-known castles of the Loire.

Built between the 11th and 19th centuries and surrounded by vineyards, the Château de Brézé itself isn’t particularly alluring. The few interior rooms open to the public are mildly interesting but much better examples of former castle life can be seen at Chenonceau and Blois, among others. The real draw to Brézé is the dry moat and underground caves to explore.

The moat at Château de Brézé is unique because you can actually walk around it! The moat is a huge trench that surrounds the castle and was not filled with water, but rather left as an empty cavernous void. At 18 meters (59 feet) deep and 10 meters (32.8 feet) wide, this dry moat is the largest in all of Europe. It’s mind-boggling and completely intimidating to stand at the bottom and see how truly massive it is!

Moats are a clever defensive feature that made it much more difficult for attackers to approach the castle. The moat was dug deep into the ground and lined with walls made of stone. This created a near-vertical slope that attackers would have had to descend, making them vulnerable to projectiles from the castle. The dry moat also served as a barrier that made it virtually impossible for siege engines to get close to the fortress walls.

Under the château are 2 miles of troglodyte caves and passageways, likely built to protect against invading Vikings. The oldest section is the Roche de Brézé that predates 1063 and is 9 meters (29.5 feet) below the castle courtyard. These underground refuges were well-equipped to sustain an extended siege, with silos that allowed for food storage, rooms dug for living quarters for both humans and animals, and a large kitchen with bread ovens that's the largest known underground bakery to exist in Europe and could bake 200 pounds of bread at one time!

There's also facilities for wine-making, plenty of wine storage, an ice house and even an underground chapel. Access to the entrance of the caves could easily be blocked and the defenders could ambush any attackers due to the narrow corridors with plenty of blind bends in the pathway. It's a true subterranean fortress!

These troglodyte caves are relatively common in the Loire Valley and the Dordogne region as they provided ample protection from invaders in the Middle Ages, however those at Brézé are the most extensive and interesting we’ve seen so far. Wandering in the caves and moat left us both in awe of the way those in the past managed to create an underground den of safety around themselves.

Honestly, Mallory and I found the château itself to be underwhelming. The outside was nice and the castle is a beautiful piece of architecture. However, the interior was a lot like the other small châteaux in the area. Except the one magnificent room of the Cardinal de Richelieu, the inside was as unimpressive as the gardens. But, keep in mind this was a military fortress and not a pleasure palace for the king.

The grounds also house some friendly goats that we weren’t supposed to feed (we threw acorns they couldn't reach from a nearby tree) and a well-preserved pigeonaire that once housed thousands of birds. So many that they were in fact a menace to the local farmers!

Overall, Château de Brézé is not worth a trip out of your way, but I highly recommend it if you're visiting Saumur with a car or if you're particularly interested in Medieval defensive structures. The moat and underground network of caves is quite fascinating to explore!

We took a break to focus on our clients and enjoy the holidays, but French Travel Trivia Tuesdays is back! Put your know...
09/01/2024

We took a break to focus on our clients and enjoy the holidays, but French Travel Trivia Tuesdays is back! Put your knowledge to the test and see if you can answer this week's question without asking Google or Siri! Bonne chance !

🏰 Question: The Château de Brézé, known for its deep moats and underground tunnels, is situated in which French region?

a. Normandy
b. Centre-Val de Loire
c. Île-de-France
d. Brittany

Hey ladies! (And guys who want to spoil your ladies!) Have you been dreaming of a vacation in France? We've partnered wi...
08/01/2024

Hey ladies! (And guys who want to spoil your ladies!) Have you been dreaming of a vacation in France? We've partnered with the fun and fabulous Linda Beach to create an awesome small group tour in Paris and the castle-filled Loire Valley this May and would love to have you join us!

Quick details: 8-12 fun and adventurous women, May 21-30, 4* accommodations, 2 meals a day included, Paris--Amboise--Versailles, everything done for you so you can relax and enjoy!

We'll begin in Paris with an elegant and magical dinner cruise down the Seine River where you'll see many iconic monuments beautifully lit up for the evening. We'll also experience a private pastry-making class at the famous Le Cordon Bleu, a make-your-own perfume workshop, behind-the-scenes tour of the stunning Palais Garnier opera house and a professional photo shoot at the Eiffel Tower, among other fun and memorable experiences!

Then we'll take the train together to Amboise, a picturesque small town that makes the perfect base for exploring the fairytale castles of the Loire Valley. We'll see four of the most famous, including a watercolor painting workshop in the world-renowned gardens of Château de Villandry!

You'll eat fabulous food, drink incredible wine and even have an afternoon at a stunning 5* spa with an hour massage included! We'll then head to the awe-inspiring Palace of Versailles for a guided tour of rooms not usually seen by travelers. We'll also have plenty of time to explore the massive gardens with the luxury of golf carts and experience Marie Antoinette's trianon and domain that became her refuge from court life.

This trip is going to be magical and so fun! We still have a few spots left and Linda and I would personally love to have you join us! Let me know if you're interested and I'll send you all the juicy details!

Fourteen years ago, Ben and I experienced our first trip to France, spending 6 weeks exploring Paris over Christmas and ...
07/01/2024

Fourteen years ago, Ben and I experienced our first trip to France, spending 6 weeks exploring Paris over Christmas and New Year’s. I’m naturally a control freak – ahem…I mean a planner, so we had pages of sites to see, printed maps with walking directions (anyone remember MapQuest?) and restaurant reservations made after hours of research on Chowhound.

We spent whole days in the Louvre, the D’Orsay, the Rodin museum. We climbed the million steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe and Montmartre. Our jaws dropped at Versailles and we barely managed to pick them up again at Palais Garnier. We visited Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Chopin, and Gertrude Stein (among many others) at Pere Lachaise. I dragged Ben into every shop with a pretty window display.

We delighted in the Christmas lights that sparkled everywhere, accompanied by gorgeous decorations like the glistening 30 foot tall trees lining the streets and squares. We drank hot chocolate and so much vin chaud (mulled wine) that we left with purple teeth! We purchased gifts for loved ones at the fairytale Christmas markets.

It was absolutely magical! The dream trip of a lifetime!

But you know what my favorite part was? Just strolling the streets, being guided by intuition and, when hungry, our noses. (We really didn’t need the hours on Chowhound and all the pre-made reservations. We found the French food to be amazing no matter where we went.) Paris is a labyrinth of beauty and history, with interesting details literally around every corner. I took hundreds of photos – or thousands if the memory cards were big enough back then – and I have several that I cherish to this day.

But this one is my favorite. It’s not in front of some world famous site (there’s plenty of those too!) and we don’t look particularly good. Do you know why it’s my favorite? Because it was a completely unplanned, yet magical encounter.

We were nearing exhaustion at the end of the day, but weren’t ready to go ‘home’ to our rented apartment in the 7eme yet. We were approaching the Champs de Mars and ducked down a side street to investigate a pleasant sounding ruckus. That’s where we discovered this small bar with only five or so other patrons who seemed to be having the time of their lives. Perfect!

We sidled up to the bar and ordered a couple of beers for sustenance. The owner was the man pointing in the center of the photo. While he didn’t speak much English and we didn’t speak much French at the time, we all managed to bond. We learned about how he had saved for years to buy his local bar. We met his friends who had always frequented the old establishment, but especially adored the new owner.

They asked us all about our lives and our time in Paris. They taught us dirty phrases and jokes, particularly around then president Sarkozy’s wife. We didn’t understand the jokes, so they explained by showing a naked photo of her that was published while being First Lady. This led to a spirited discussion on the differences between the American and French cultures, especially in relation to politics. In short, it was the perfect evening because we stumbled in and got to enjoy it with Parisians.

Back then guides were difficult to find unless inside a major tourist attraction, so this was a rare moment to spend a few hours with locals, to really pick their brains. That night, we fell in love with the French culture even more than we already had.

If you’re planning your first trip to Paris – or anywhere, really – I have two pieces of advice for you. First, be sure to leave time in your itinerary to just wander aimlessly. To follow your instincts and loud, happy noises. If you only have a few days, then save a half-day for strolling the neighborhood your hotel is in. If you have a week, reserve a whole day to meander the city at will, with no destination in mind. You may be surprised what you stumble across and your photos will be as cherished as this one for me!

Secondly, hire a local guide to get so much more out of your visit than you possibly could on your own. If you join a small group, you will likely hear more of a rehearsed spiel and have less time to ask questions, but it’s absolutely worth every penny. If you have a larger budget, hire a private guide for just your group. Going this route, you will have a much more personal experience, including the opportunity to custom tailor the tour to suit your particular interests and you can ask all the questions you want.

There are hundreds of guides to cover all interests and locations. Larger sites will usually have guided group tours in English at least once a day and many private guides specialize in museums like the unfathomably huge Louvre. There are several active tours with bikes, sidecars, scooters etc and a large range of walking tours dedicated to certain neighborhoods, many focused on food.

Please do remember though, that sites like GetYourGuide and AirBnb charge *at least* 20% of the ticket price to the guide. Try to find out their names and book directly. The research takes time, but it will actually support a small business rather than a massive conglomerate. The ‘best’ guides are often not even on these sites, because of the huge percentage taken, so remember google is your friend.

Or better yet, save yourself hundreds of hours and lots of hair pulling by hiring us to create your dream trip for you! We’ve already done the research and have built relationships with excellent guides to ensure you have a fun and seamless experience!

Either way, remember to build time in your schedule to just wander the beautiful city and take every opportunity to speak with locals. In our experience, they are very kind and curious and often a treasure-trove of insights into Paris and the French. Bon voyage !

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