A Japan Less Traveled

15/09/2022

While Gujo-Hachiman is best known for its legendary Bon dance, the Gujo Odori, the former castle town is also a wonderful place to visit during autumn.

Though the mountaintop Gujo Castle is indeed an impressive stronghold to behold at any time of year, the grounds are especially picturesque during the fall.

Should you make the journey out to Gujo-Hachiman, try to catch a glimpse of the town’s keep “floating” above a blanket of fog as pictured here.

This is just another example why Nagoya is not boring nor is the surrounding area.

19/05/2022

From the top of Mt. Aoba.

This mountain is known as the "Fuji of Wakasa" because of its symmetrical Fuji-esque form. As you get to climb through a primeval forest while enjoying splendid views of Wakasa Bay, it makes for a delightful day hike.

The sacred Mt. Haku is visible from the peak, but sadly I didn't have a strong enough zoom to get a photo. I did glimpse it though, floating among the clouds. It is believed that the legendary sage Taicho, who was the first to climb Mt. Haku, saw Mt. Aoba when he reached the top, and later climbed this mountain.

Mt. Aoba overlooks the town of Takahama, which boasts many attractions, including beautiful white beaches, turquoise water, and excellent seafood. I'll be writing a blog post about this area soon, so stay tuned.

#日本海 ＃青葉山

29/04/2022

Hiking down to Sotomo Arches from Mt. Kusuyagadake.

26/04/2022

日本語訳は下にあります。Some views from a new tour I'm creating. Ride up the "Angel Line" to the summit of Mt. Kusuyagadake 670m (by road bike or e-bike), and then hike down to the famous Sotomo Arches. Carved by the waves, this rock formation once served as a landmark for ships entering the port of Obama. The hike back up is quite steep and the trail isn't in the best shape, but the views are well worth the effort for those who are fairly strong walkers. Be sure to make plenty of noise to frighten away the bears, as this beautiful primeval forest makes for an excellent habitat for wildlife. I counted 5 deer, though I couldn't get my camera out in time.

新しいツアーからの眺めをいくつか紹介します。エンジェルラインに乗って久須夜ヶ岳の頂上（670m）まで行き（ロードバイクでもE-bikeでも）、そこから蘇洞門までハイキングで下ります。蘇洞門はかつて小浜港に入港する船の目印となった名所です。登り返しはかなり急で、登山道もあまり良い状態ではありませんが、景色は素晴らしい。また、この豊かな原生林は野生動物の生息地となっているため、熊を追い払うために音を立ててください。鹿を５頭見ましたが、残念ながらカメラを出すのが遅かったです。

#蘇洞門 ＃若狭小浜 #日本海

24/04/2022

下に日本語あり。The famous Sotomo Arches once served as a landmark for ships entering the port of Obama. These gateways carved by waves over the aeons can be reached via the Sotomo Cruise, departing from Wakasa Fisherman's Wharf, or by hiking a couple of hours down the steep slope from the Angel Line parking lot, near the summit of Mt. Kusuyagadake.

Keep in mind that you will have to hike back out again, so allow plenty of time. And also make plenty of noise to frighten away the bears, as this beautiful primeval forest makes for an excellent habitat for wildlife. I counted 5 deer, though I couldn't get my camera out in time.

かつて小浜港に入港する船の目印となった有名な「蘇洞門」。波が刻んだこの門は、若狭フィッシャーマンズワーフから出航する「蘇洞門めぐり」、または久須夜ヶ岳山頂付近のエンジェルライン駐車場から急斜面を2時間かけて下るハイキングで訪れることができます。

ただし、また登り返さなければならないので、時間には余裕を持ってください。また、この豊かな原生林は野生動物の生息地となっているため、熊を追い払うために音を立ててください。鹿を５頭見ましたが、残念ながらカメラを出すのが遅かったです。

#蘇洞門 ＃若狭小浜 ＃小浜市

21/04/2022

All that remains of Nochiseyama Castle are a few stone walls and some ancient trees who, if they could talk, would tell you that the former palace with its fine views of Wakasa Bay was used more for cultural than military purposes.

The Takeda clan, who once ruled Wakasa Province, were originally from Kyoto. They maintained close relations with people of culture and court nobles in the capital, and had an appreciation for arts and poetry. Nochiseyama Castle served as an oasis from the wars that plagued Japan during the sengoku (warring states) period, where dignitaries and cultured people could travel via the Saba Kaido to enjoy a Renga poem reciting party, while gazing at the moon shining over the bay.

This cultural exchange with the sophisticated upper classes of Kyoto allowed the arts and letters to spread throughout the Wakasa region.

The trailhead is a ten minute walk from Obama Station, near the tunnel on Route 27, and just behind the Panasonic Service shop. The hike to the summit at 168m should take less than a half hour. In 1997, the ruins were designated a national historic site.

21/04/2022

All that remains of Nochiseyama Castle are a few stone walls and some ancient trees who, if they could talk, would tell you that the former palace with its fine views of Wakasa Bay was used more for cultural than military purposes.

The Takeda clan, who once ruled Wakasa Province, were originally from Kyoto. They maintained close relations with people of culture and court nobles in the capital, and had an appreciation for arts and poetry. Nochiseyama Castle served as an oasis from the wars that plagued Japan during the sengoku (warring states) period, where dignitaries and cultured people could travel via the Saba Kaido to enjoy a Renga poem reciting party, while gazing at the moon shining over the bay.

This cultural exchange with the sophisticated upper classes of Kyoto allowed the arts and letters to spread throughout the Wakasa region.

The trailhead is a ten minute walk from Obama Station, near the tunnel on Route 27, and just behind the Panasonic Service shop. The hike to the summit at 168m should take less than a half hour. In 1997, the ruins were designated a national historic site.

16/04/2022

I met this guy in front of the "Machinoeki" - City Station (as opposed to the "Michinoeki" - Road Station). This public space houses a nice little health food store with a pop-up kitchen named Tetoki, and a vegan cafe named Seasons, that serves some excellent pasta and curry options, as well as waffles.

Can you guess the subject of our deep discussion?

13/04/2022

"Umi no otoko" - a man of the sea. In the fishing hamlet of Tagarasu, Obama (Fukui) people have made their living by harvesting the sea's bounties since ancient times.

This father and son team take Ikeda-san, of , and I out to harvest wakame seaweed. Fresh wakame tastes great in your miso soup!

09/04/2022

Sakura!

Sometimes its nice to get away from the more popular viewing spots, and explore the beautiful Japanese countryside on your own. You might find some hidden gems, embellishing the already picturesque landscape.

These photos were taken along the Minami River, in the hamlet of Kaminakai, Obama.

08/04/2022

Sakura season arrives a little later up here in Obama, Fukui. This splendid old tree stands in the grounds of Myoyuji Temple, located along the Minami River in the picturesque hamlet of Kaminakai.

＃花見　＃桜　

24/02/2022

Has anyone ridden the "Mackerel Highway" between Kyoto and the Sea of Japan?

It seems to be attracting a lot of Japanese cyclists, some of whom do the round trip in a day!

Apart from being completely tunnel-free (and nearly traffic-free), the Saba Kaido has a long and fascinating history. Take a peak at the blog post if you'd like to learn more. It also includes a GPX file of the route.

12/12/2021

A great article by Bradley Paul Bennett, owner of Freewheeling Japan and fellow participant in a monitor tour created by Taku Yamada of Satoyama Experience. It was an amazing adventure from Arashiyama to Miyama, Ayabe, and around the Tango Penninsula to Amanohashidate. Some beautiful off-the-beaten path cycling, fabulous cuisine and super-friendly local people along the way.

Kyoto is more than temples and shrines. Cycle from the old capital to the Sea of Japan while passing old villages and mountains in greater Kyoto.

13/11/2021

New home, new job, and a new page. Follow it to explore this beautiful part of Japan that connects Kyoto to the sea, and the present to the past.

09/09/2021

(English below)
山々に囲まれて5年間暮らした後、また海に呼ばれているようです。福井県の小浜市の観光局に9月から就職します。小浜市の食、自然、伝統文化、宿などを紹介するライター・広報担当者、ガイド教育およびガイドという仕事内容です。また、鯖街道という古道のウォーキングやサイクリングツアーの開発、それを宣伝するコンテンツを作成することもしていきます。

かつて京都が首都であった頃、小浜は海の玄関口であり、魚は「鯖街道」を通って徒歩で京都まで運ばれていました。

また、小浜は奈良・平安時代に大陸から到着した船の主要な入港地でした。小さな町には、驚くほど多くの印象的なお寺や神社、古くから残っている儀式やお祭りがあります。

こちらとInstagramにこれからの冒険を投稿しますので、お楽しみに！

今のところ、翠ちゃんは郡上に残り、定期的に私が戻ってくる予定です。だから、皆さんに「さよなら！」と言うのではなく、「行って来ます！」と言いたいと思います。

After living 5 years ensconced among the cedar-covered mountains of Gujo, the sea appears to be calling me back. I have been offered a job with the Obama City tourism bureau, in the neighboring province of Fukui. The job summary calls for a “writer, tour guide, tour guide trainer, and public relations specialist to promote food, nature, traditional culture, and inns in Obama City.” I will also be helping to develop the ancient Saba Kaido (Mackerel Road) into walking and cycling tours, and creating content to promote it. This small fishing port was once the primary point of access to the sea from Kyoto. It supplied the former capital with sea food, especially salted mackerel, via porters who walked the Saba Kaido. It was also the major port of entry for ships arriving from the mainland during the Nara and Heian Periods. Thus, this small town boasts some very impressive temples, shrines, ceremonies and festivals that go back to ancient times.

I’ll be posting my adventures here and on Facebook so stay tuned. And I hope some of you will come visit me when the borders reopen.

For now, Suiho will remain in Gujo, and I’ll be coming back regularly to visit. So I wont be saying “sayonara!” to Gujo, just “ittekimasu!” (be back soon!).

#鯖街道 #小浜

01/08/2021

Wakasa Wada Beach, Fukui. Sea, sunset, craft beer, fugu carpaccio, and

#若狭和田ビーチ

21/07/2021

Summer in Hachiman: rites of passage.

八幡の夏：通過儀礼

#郡上八幡 #郡上 #夏休み

18/07/2021

Wakasa, the former province to which Obama once belonged, was one of the few provinces responsible for supplying food items to the imperial court, during the Nara and Heian periods. It thus developed a highly refined culinary culture —based predominantly on fish — that is still very much alive today.

#小浜 #鯖街道 #小浜観光

14/07/2021

For a town of its size, Obama boasts an extraordinary number of impressive temples and shrines. It’s hard to imagine this now quiet fishing port bustling with maritime traffic from the Asian mainland, as far back as the Nara period.

Myotsu-ji Temple was originally constructed in the 9th century and hosts some fine statues which are designated national treasures.

Wakasahime Shrine is part of a complex that was founded in the early 7th century. The thousand-year-old Sennen Sugi that guards over it made such an impression on American poet Gary Snyder, that he mentioned it in a poem.

This delightful Noh stage is sadly no longer in use.

#小浜 #鯖街道 #小浜観光

19/06/2021

A trip to Obama. As the nearest seaport to the ancient capital of Kyoto, this little town has a long and fascinating history. A principal harbor for ships arriving from China and Korea, since perhaps the Kofun period (300-538AD), it was also the starting point of the Saba Kaido -Mackerel Road- which supplied the capital with fresh fish. Some areas still retain a pre-Meiji vibe, and it’s many fine temples and shrines are well maintained.

#小浜 #鯖街道 #日本海

22/04/2021

Children play an important role in many Japanese festivals. Being pure of heart, they are closer to the gods. For the final parade through town, the boys are hoisted onto the shoulders of the men. As they are now possessed by the deities, their feet must not touch the ground. The shrine maidens (miko) today play a symbolic role, but in ancient times these were shamanic priests and powerful women. The centuries-old festival normally lasts 2 days and runs late into the night, but this year’s was abbreviated due to the pandemic.

03/07/2020

About 80km, 1600meters elevation gain
約80km、1600m 標高。下に日本語の説明があります

A beautiful ride through mountains and hamlets, with a happy ending at Gujo’s own Meiho Gelato - which is, by the way, fairly world-class with a branch in Tokyo Skytree (no pun intended). I also took a detour to have lunch in a nice new restaurant at the Kokindenju Museum in Yamato. One of the joys of this route is that most of it consists of old, mountain pass roads, which are practically devoid of traffic. Of course, it’s not for cyclists who hate climbing.

山と集落を通り、最後に郡上市の明宝ジェラートに立ち寄るハッピーエンドのライド。ちなみに明宝ジェラートはかなりワールド・クラスで東京スカイツリーにもお店があります。今回は回り道をして大和の古今伝珠美術館にある新しいレストランで昼食をとりました。このルートの魅力の一つは古い峠道が多いので、車は滅多にない。もちろん、登り道が嫌いなサイクリストには向いていません。

21/05/2020

About 110km, 1900meters elevation gain
約110km、1900m 標高。下に日本語の説明があります

Found a wonderful route north to Shirotori on narrow, winding roads flanked by farmhouses and rice paddies. From there up over Aburazaka Pass (5km, 320m, 6%) to avoid the main road and long tunnel, and down into the neighboring prefecture of Fukui. Here I had to get onto the main road, which offers marvelous views of the Kuzuryu River (and lake, where it’s been dammed), but also had considerable truck traffic due to nearby construction. The road northeast leading to Itoshiro (and back into Gifu Prefecture) is a gradual climb with views of the surrounding mountains, and the gorgeous Itoshiro River flowing along side it. The hamlet of Itoshiro is a place that deserves a post all of its own, and I will create one eventually. Once an important waypoint on the pilgrimage to the sacred Mt. Haku, this village still retains much of its deep religious (Shinto and Buddhist) and cultural heritage. Another climb to Hinoki Pass, and a long, steep, zigzagging descent brings you back to Shirotori. Take a break halfway down and hike 15 minutes into the forest to the spectacular Amidagataki waterfall, which was once rendered in a woodblock print by the Edo Period artist Hokusai.

八幡から白鳥へ田んぼの脇を通る素晴らしいルートを見つけました。そこから、幹線道路と長いトンネルを避けるため油坂峠(5km, 320m, 6%)を越えて、隣の福井県へ。ここは幹線道路しかなく、九頭竜川の素晴らしい景色をみれますが、工事のためにかなりのトラックの通行もありました。石徹白に続く（岐阜県に戻る）北東の道は、緩やかな登り道で、周囲の山々とその横を流れる美しい石徹白川が見えます。石徹白の集落は、それだけの投稿にあたいする場所なので、近々また載せたいと思います。かつて白山への巡礼で重要な場所とされていて、伝統的な信仰と文化遺産の多くを保持しています。石徹白から、桧峠へ登り、そして長くて急なジグザグな道を下り、白鳥に戻ります。途中で休憩し、森の中を15分ほどハイキングすると阿弥陀ヶ滝にお参りすることができます。神話によると長良川の源流とされていたようです。昔から有名な場所で、北斎の木版画にもなっています。

16/05/2020

About 90km, 1500meters elevation gain
約90km、1500m 標高。下に日本語の説明があります

This route offers a variety of scenery: verdant forests, turquoise streams, charming hamlets, and a vast man-made lake with a narrow, desolate road snaking around its perimeter. Setting out from Hachiman, it follows quiet country roads along rice paddies and farm houses until Meiho, where it joins the main road for about 10km until turning south to begin the steep climb (5.4 km 345 meters 6%) to Horikoshi Pass. A long winding descent takes you into the scenic hamlet of Ogawa, and along the Yugake river, past a herd of friendly goats, and back into the forest. Here the road narrows, and the river becomes a beautiful gorge with turquoise water and sculpted white stones. So beautiful in fact, that at one point I had to get off the bike and walk down the bank to get a better look, and give my bandana a soak to cool off.

Eventually the Yugake joins the Maze River, which very quickly becomes an impressive lake where it has been dammed. Cross the bridge to stay off the main road, and follow the pleasant narrow road that meanders around the western bank, until crossing back over the dam itself and rejoining the main road. I chose to by-pass the long tunnel by heading further south and then back up to the hamlet of Wara, which I have covered in a previous post.

このルートでは、豊かな森、ターコイズブルーの小川、魅力的な集落、広大な人工湖など、さまざまな景色を楽しめます。八幡から出発し、田んぼ沿いの静かな田舎道が明宝まで続きます。幹線道路を約10km通り、南に曲がり、急な上り坂（5.4 km、 345メートル、6％）で堀越峠に向かいます。長い曲がりくねった道を下って、小川の集落とやぎの群れを通り越して弓掛川に沿いながら、森へ戻ります。ここでだんだんと道は狭くなり、川は青緑色の水と彫刻のような白い石で美しい峡谷になります。

弓掛川はやがて馬瀬川に合流し、ダムがせき止められているため湖になってます。橋を渡って、西側を曲がりくねくねした道を進みます。そのあと、ダムを越えて幹線道路に合流します。長いトンネルを迂回するため南に向かって、そこから回って、和良の集落（前回の投稿に書いてあります）を通って八幡に戻ります。

13/05/2020

Around 60km, 1300m elevation gain
約60km、1300m 標高。下に日本語の説明があります

This loop again takes advantage of the old “togemichi,” or mountain-pass roads, that once linked these mountain villages together. These roads have fallen into disuse due to the proliferation of highways and tunnels, which have made the passage faster and safer, albeit far less picturesque. The route climbs over two passes to arrive at the hamlet of Motai, which has its own small ski area and hot springs, (only open seasonally, in winter and summer). From there it follows a ridge with marvelous views to the hamlet of Omami. This was the first time I had visited this hamlet and I was amazed at the pride with which these people maintain their old kominka farmhouses and gardens. I was admiring one of these gardens when the lady of the house came over to greet me and chat for a while. One of the many advantages of traveling by bicycle is the opportunity for these chance encounters with strangers.

このループはかつて峠道を利用します。昔にこういった古道はこれらの集落を結びつけていましたが、高速道路とトンネルの発展により廃れました。 ルートは2つの峠を越え、小さなスキー場と温泉がある母袋の集落に到着します（冬と夏は季節限定で営業しています）。 そこから素晴らしい景色を望む尾根の道が大間見へ続きます。この集落を訪れたのは初めてで、そこに住んでいる方々が古民家や庭を綺麗に維持しているのを見て驚きました。ある庭を眺めていたら、そのお家のお婆ちゃんが私に挨拶をして、しばらくおしゃべりをしました。自転車で旅行する良いことの一つは、こういう見知らぬ人との偶然の出会いです。

09/05/2020

Around 50km, 1000m elevation gain
約50km、1000m 標高。下に日本語の説明があります。

This course follows my normal route up the Kodara river, over the pass, and down through Yamato to return along the Nagara River, but this time I took a detour north through the hamlet of Kurisu to visit my friends in Motai, a remote little hamlet known for its small ski area, hot springs, and doburoku: a viscous, milky white, potent variety of sake made in small batches. My friends Yoshida san and Onogi san have been working hard converting an old farmhouse into a guesthouse/doburoku brewery of their own. I was disappointed to learn that their doburoku wasn’t ready yet, so I’ll have to make a trip up that way again soon. Their webpage (in Japanese) is: https://www.yamanohyakusei.com/.

このコースは私の通常のルートであるこだら川を通り、峠を越え、大和を通って長良川に沿って戻るコースですが、今回は栗巣の集落を北に回り道して、母袋
と言う小さな集落にいる友達を訪ねました 。母袋は小さなスキー場と温泉があり、名物はどぶろくです。私の友人の吉田さんと小野木さんは、古い農家をゲストハウスとドブロク醸造所に改造するために一生懸命頑張っています。 彼らのどぶろくがまだ準備ができていないので少しがっかりでしたが、近いうちにまた訪ねたいです。 彼らのホームページは：https://www.yamanohyakusei.com/。

06/05/2020

Around 90km, 1165m elevation gain
約90km、1165m 標高　下に日本語の説明があります。

Heading south downstream along the Nagara River, and then west towards Seki-shi, bypassing the ridiculously long tunnel by climbing a steep, lonely, forest road up over Taraga pass. Then the route follows a picturesque main road downstream along the Itadori River, which is popular with tourists so its best to avoid weekends and holidays. Turn off the main road and follow the narrow secondary road south of the river as it bends east, to get away from the cars and enjoy the nicer scenery, as well as the shade. Where the Itadori joins the Nagara river, head north again, following the older, longer, more scenic road, which generally hugs the riverbank and features exclusive views of some of the prettier parts of the river. This road has happily been all but abandoned by automobiles, and is even moss-covered in some parts.

長良川沿いに南下し、西に関市に向かい、たらが峠を越えて険しく少し寂しい林道を登り、途方もなく長いトンネルを迂回します。 その後、ルートはいたどり川沿いの絵のように美しい幹線道路に沿ってあり、観光客に人気があるため、週末や休日を避けるのが最善です。 幹線道路を出て、川が東に曲がるにつれて南の細い道路に沿って進み、車から離れて、より良い景色と日陰を楽しみます。 いたどりが長良川に合流するところで、川岸を包み込み、川のきれいな景色を眺めることができる、より長く、より風光明媚な道路に沿って、再び北に向かいます。 この道路は幸いなことにすべて自動車はなく、一部は苔で覆われています。

28/04/2020

About 52 km and 1233 m in altitude elevation. Paved roads.

約52 km、標高1233 m。アスファルト。

This route begins with a steep climb from Hachiman to the charming hamlet of Wara, and then down a nearly deserted winding forest road that follows a mountain stream until it empties into the Nagara River. The secondary road along the west bank of the river has spectacular views and barely any traffic. Then the route turns west and heads up again through the hamlet of Takasago, to the beautiful and historic Hoshinomiya Shrine. The locals come here to pray, and also to bottle the delicious spring water that pours perpetually into a stone basin. The narrow forest road behind the shrine winds steeply up past waterfalls and streams, and then over the pass down to another beautiful moss-covered shrine called Shingu. From here it continues through forest and farmland until reaching a tunnel, which magically transports the rider back into the town of Hachiman.

27/04/2020

27/04/2020

About 50km and 1000m elevation gain. Pavement with some gravel.
約50km、1000mの標高差。 アスファルトと砂利。

23/04/2020

サイクリングルート及び、それに関する情報をシェアしていきます。

This page will be introducing several cycling routes (road and gravel) as well as some local attractions - including activities, accommodations, hot springs, cafes, bars, and cuisine in central Japan.

Please feel free to message me with any questions or inquiries.

20/04/2020

Dogs, donuts, and deserted country roads. About 35 km and 650 m elevation gain.
約35km、650mの標高差。