29/05/2020
Finally, made it back into the workshop today. I bought some leather last week and was looking forward to getting back to my bench. OK, the leather wasn't the most expensive, but I have used it before and it has proved pretty good, laid it out, and already I am worried, marking out and cutting does nothing to improve my growing disappointment. So, thought it might be useful to talk a bit about leather!
There are, obviously two sides to a hide, the grain side is the outer side, and the flesh side is the inner. The hide itself will be irregular, but roughly rectangular. It is, in the UK at least, usually sold in the following cuts;
A 'butt runs from the inside of the back leg up to the shoulder. It will be cut along the spine, so, if the tail is by your feet and the butt is running away from you the one long edge, (fairly straight) will be the spine, the opposite long edge will be the belly, and the far edge, furthest away from you would be where the shoulder starts.
From one hide you would get a pair of butts, one from each side of the spine, and a shoulder which combines both the shoulders, this is often sold in square feet, or by weight, lbs or kilos, and usually the thickness is in mm !
The thickness will vary over hide, with the best area being that along the spine edges and towards the back legs. Use that area for your best quality work, or areas that will take the most punishment through work. Every strap you cut will have a thicker, firmer end, use that for your holes, putting your buckle at the weaker end.
Good leather should feel firm and greasy, if you bend the hide, grain side to grain side it should not start to crinkle. You may find that areas near where the belly of the animal was do this a bit, but generally it should not be a significant area.
So, I got caught. It has happened before with one of the biggest suppliers in the UK. The best way is to go and buy your leather in person, chose your hides, but that is not always possible, so this was a phone order three weeks ago. Why did I get a bad one?
Unfortunately there are several reasons for this to happen.
1/ The supplier is using a poor quality tannery.
2/Leather is natural, in economy pieces there is a certain amount of pot luck. You make your order, the supplier grabs the top hide and sends it. Tough, you got a poor one.
3/ A supplier may have been caught himself (or herself, or, if you prefer totally non gendered selves). They are stuck with sub quality hides, so along comes a new customer, buying in very small amounts and unknown. That's the person who gets the substandard, rather than the big company who buy 20 hides a month off the supplier and provide a good part of the income!
What do you do? Well, unfortunately I had already cut into this piece or I would have sent it back. As it was I calmly phoned my supplier and we had a chat about it. He has apologizes and said it must have been an odd one, and he didn't notice. We discussed an alternative product, slightly more expensive, and agreed that next time I would order that. I am pretty happy that the guy is genuine, and certain that he now knows that he cannot send me poor hides, so I will give him another chance. What am i going to do with the hide? As I said to the supplier, I would bin it rather than use it even for repairs, if I could afford to, but luckily I am making display samples which will sit in a high window! So, if you visit me and see the samples in the top window don't ask to buy them, they will not be sold!
That's a pretty basic guide, let me know if you have any questions!
Chris