28/01/2024
Day 8-Antarctica: LAND
Pictures: penguins, seals, and more baby penguins.
Wednesday morning I woke up at 445 to see the first view of Antarctica at shore. It was truly a breathtaking sight. You could hear the penguins already awake and walking along their penguin highway, seals laying on the shore, and eventually, whales entering the harbor of Half Moon Island.
We put on our ship provided boots -we had to step in disinfectant before getting on a zodiac and again on shore, and before entering the ship on the return. This was to keep unknown particles from entering the continent, and the avian flu. We took a zodiac boat over to the shore and touching land was one of the coolest things I’ll ever do.
For the next three hours I saw colonies of chinstrap penguins-baby penguins still covered in fur, huddling under their mom for warmth. Seals lounging on the shore, and a giant whale rib the size of a small car. Penguins have the right of way so we stepped off the highway to allow them through-and always 15 feet away from wildlife. Watching as they carried pebbles in their mouths to take back to their nests. We were not allowed to kneel or sit for pictures-nothing to be dropped. Only our feet touched anything tangible on shore. All this to keep the 7th continent protected. The temperature was in the 30’s and with the sun, didnt need gloves. Eventually we boarded the zodiacs and the crew member surprised us by taking us to the opposite shore where we saw an emperor penguin. This is so rare that majority of our crew hadn’t even seen one in the wild, in years of expeditions. He was taking a nap, but eventually woke to look at us, just as confused to see us as he was to us.
After lunch, our ship had moved a couple of hours away and we embarked on land again. We had further to walk bc the island harbor was filled with ice. The weather had quickly turned and was throwing snow down like it was a dagger. Ski goggles, glasses, nothing helped, except pulling my hood as far forward as possible. I walked a mile to the end of the island -the third person off the boat to make it-true grit and determination on my part because the wind and snow was extremely bad-to see some gentoo penguins-thousands upon thousands huddled together against the wind (that I was sure would carry me away). Waterproof means nothing to Anarctica, where it was said many times that it controls weather. I took pictures of baby penguins and the colonies, seals laying on the shore, and then made the slow and steady walk back to the boat, where I was drenched through three layers (but oddly enough wasn’t too cold). Bc the weather had changed so much, the water was pretty choppy and the polar plunge was in doubt. But the captain made some adjustments so we could do this amazing tradition. I changed into my swimsuit and Ann and I raced to the bottom of the ship, to be first in line. The thrill of not knowing what was ahead of us, as about 50 others stood behind us waiting for our reaction was so exciting. Without overthinking it, we took three steps and plunged ourselves into the icy ocean-the cold shocking my lungs and body but my brain knew what to do. Stroke after stroke I swam back to the ship, trying to catch a breath but it all felt compressed. I scrambled up, and felt my sensories go into overload, the adrenaline rushing through my body, and cheered, everyone else on board cheering with me. Then being handed a towel-catching my first breath-and taking a shot of vodka with Ann-who never hesitated when i asked her 1.5 years prior if she wanted to do something crazy for my birthday. The sheer power you feel traveling to another country, or even solo in the US is unmatched.
And just like that, years of planning had come to fruition and I had stepped onto the 7th continent and been baptized and welcomed by the Antarctic.