ALL in Wanderlust (2025)

Information shared is my experience of what works for me but may not be right for others. I encourage all adventurers to embrace what works for them and listen to their intuition coupled with research and planning.

16/03/2025

Sharing last weekend’s section hike info from Scott Driver Rec Area (Okeechobee) to Oak Creek Trailhead (Kissimmee) 40.4 miles. Logistics: Great parking at Oak Creek and seemed very safe on a fairly unused road. Before parking I did a quick water drop at Chandler Slough South Gate right on road to snag before camping at Chandler Slough East Camp (as it is referred to in the book and map though the permit site only lists West and South camp – I permitted for South and think that was correct).

I had a moderately early morning start at 8:45am after shuttling from Oak Creek. Scott Driver is well equipped with amenities and is busy. The hike started on a raised levy similar to what is around Lake Okeechobee; however, the water on the left is generally not visible – though the airboats and other boats can certainly be heard. It is a busy water way under normal circumstances, and I had managed to plan my hike for the weekend of the large area festival so it was amplified. The noise was not too disruptive, but I did see the bulk of the birds on the right side of the trail. The trail itself was a packed grated gravel and an easy walk for 8 miles. Right before beginning the road walk, there were some fair views of the waterway – though it was fairly overrun with boats.

The first section of road walk was under a mile and was a private gated road, so there was little traffic. This seems to be a hiker friendly area with waves and bench and cooler with water at the gate at its end. After the SR 70 crossing, the road was certainly busier and was more populated but the same respectful vibe was in the air. All drivers were especially careful even though there was a good wide walking lane; there were many waves and thumbs up. Though it was the first 4 miles of a 6 mile midday, full sun hike in 86 degree weather, it was one of the more quant road walks I’ve done to date On the left was a large stretch of farm/agricultural land, and on the right were picturesque moderate but manicured homes that made me want to label them more homesteads. The yards were bursting with flowers and personality from children’s bikes leaning on trees presumably after a long day of adventure to fresh laundry hanging on long lines behind the houses and various animals from more typical domestic pets like dogs and cats to more pseudo farm stock. In the two hour road walk, I spun a series of Thomas Hart Benton style narratives in my mind. About two miles in, one particularly generous home had a sign on the mailbox and two chairs under the shade of a pine tree with a stocked cooler and a lovely view of a magnificent fuchsia bougainvillea. After taking my five minutes in the shade, I was able to give them a wave and shout of thanks as they were on the front porch when I passed the main house.

At the end of the first 4 miles, a sharp left brings 2 miles of an even less populated road. On the left were virtually no structures, but a fairly deep but narrow trench of standing water prevents any breaks under any shade of a tree line. There were a few homes on the right, but they were situated on far more expansive properties. Since this road deadended, the traffic here was even less and several people stopped with offers or rides, water, or words of encouragement. This ended at Platts Bluff Country Park which had several trees for shade and some views of the water, but again it was very crowded, and I did not spend as much time as I might have exploring there. After a right hand turn and brief walk a gate marked private road seemed to stymie my progress briefly, but I knew it had to be the continuation of the trail so forged onward and was soon met with the Yates Marsh Trailhead.

I was surprised that this section of more scenic nature was so brief before another road walk on Lofton Road for almost a mile. This scenic section was easy to navigate and entirely dry though is was clear from the pitted marred trail in areas that it is often very wet. I imagine finding the blazing in wet conditions might be more challenging without having the ground pattern of trail evidence to follow. There was also evidence of former cow inhabitation though I did not see any. The Lofton Road was under a mile but there was little to now walking lane, and the cars here were flying past though they did more over. It certainly lacked the gracious hospitality of my earlier experience.

I reached the Chandler Slough South (though the book calls this East – GPS will not find it without calling it south) parking area and took a few minutes filling my water supply and then lugged a one gallon jug with me for the next day. The trail quickly entered a lovely oak hammock with massive old sprawling and majestic oaks with their crooked and twisted limbs full of the life of Spanish moss and air plants. After about a mile of winding and lovely well marked trail through the hammock a large bench marks the intersection of the very short blue connector trail to camp.

On the edge of the oak hammock a well manicured camp with picnic table, benches, and even a cute mailbox with a few supplies provided a perfect space for a rustic camp after 20 miles of hiking. The water’s edge was a short walk and provided plenty of views of gators and evening sun on the water. Since I brought my water, I did not need to navigate the marshy and grassy banks for any restock and instead just enjoyed the view for a bit before setting up camp.

Though the day had reached highs of 86 degrees, the night promised to reach lows of 56, which for me is very chilly! I was equipped with my 320 GSM Merino wool, 7R rated air pad, and - 20 degree down quilt, so after setting up and cleaning up, I was in my tent by 8pm. There was a fair number of mosquitoes but my permethrin soaked wool and few sprays of my Beat It natural repellant seemed to curtail their efforts. It was my coldest night camping with limited supplies I had to carry, so it may have been my largest accomplishment of the day! I won’t say it was a perfect night’s sleep, but it was survivable. Thanks to not having trash cans or regular occupants, there were no racoons or scavengers at camp.

I woke to a very cold morning and complete fog. I managed to break down camp and be on trail by 7:30am. The intense, thick, rolling fog created a mystical setting for the winding trail though what must often be an entirely submerged 1.7 miles of marsh. Though it was soggy because of the dew and fog that had patches of heavy misting, the ground was fairly firm and generally dry. Again, evidence of cattle traffic dotted the trail but enough light was sifting through the fog to allow one to avoid it. Weaving through the giant oaks emanating their human like soul through their twisted bodies and swaying moss was an otherworldly experience. Tufts of palm clusters created jagged shadow outlines in the distance and heightened the semi-supernatural setting. Though shivering (appropriately for temperature and setting), I savored the calm and strangely engagingly eerie experience as I knew a good stretch of road walk awaited.

After reaching the next trailhead on the road just after 8am, I spent the entire 3.2 miles of road walk in complete unfortunate cover of fog. Luckily, thought the cars were fast, they were also few. This morning one even stopped to check on me or at least politely admonish me a bit. Ironically, I had my flashing headlamp signaling to drivers, but at least half of them were driving with no lights! There were also a few lose dogs on the road, but thankfully they were more bark than bite. The short segment on 98 was actually fairly safe with a wide walking path and an exciting final crossing of a bridge showcasing the wetlands to follow!

After entering the Chandler Slough West Stile, the trail immediately plunged into a stunning remote march with intermittent patches of open area and sections of palm clusters. Within minutes the sound of the road had disappeared, and the fog, mist, and sounds of nature consumed the experience. Very quickly, the first truly wet section of the day presented itself but only with water levels to the ankle. Over the next 3-4 miles the route fluctuated between dry to muddy to water eventually reaching my knees. Finally around 10am, the sun won its battle with the mist and took over allowing a more detailed long view of the scenery. Though it was warming up, the trail was generally covered with at least patchy shade. After passing through Micco Landing, the terrain turned into a rollercoaster of palm laden wetland with literal mini-hills and ridges with the trail racing up and down weaving through the trees, wet trenches and sometimes following the narrow ridge of high ground. Though this was particularly more challenging requiring thoughtful steps to avoid roots and keep a steady step with the ground constantly switching between wet infirm areas and dry more packed solid areas. Once again, I found myself wondering what this section would be like to navigate in a less dry season, and I have to acquiesce and revisit sections later this summer!

Leaving the high of palm rollercoaster, I found a very minimal Heart Pond that I will be excited to see in the wet season. Another stunning (but ultimately too short) section of Oak hammock followed. And then it ended in a cruel and (to my experience to date) singularly insidious section of trail – the ranch fence slog of ashy grey-black, manure dust that was devoid of shade in most of the next 8 miles! Admittedly, the book noted at “Trail starts hugging ranch fences” – what it does not note is that is that it virtually never stops, the cattle ranches are seemingly shaped in ostensibly random chiliagonic geometric formations rather than straight lines, and the actual path itself is the most seemingly intentionally difficult composition!

Perhaps in wet season, this is pure mush and more difficult – I’ll never know as I feel fairly confident I will not be back soon. On one side a raised ledge (not wide enough to walk on supported the barbed wire fence with endless trespassing warnings, then to left was generally completely overgrown grass tangles offering jaggers and snakes. The 4-5 foot wide trail was composed of generally bone dry, grey-black looking “dirt” with the consistency of sandy-gritty-ash that was entirely uneven and pock marked from the prints of humans, cows, and tractor ruts. Some of its even less enjoyable qualities were that it was practically a foot deep of sinking into many areas with others being more solid, but it was impossible to tell how solid your footstep would be so it was miles of wobblily ankle staggering. If there is hike into the descent of hell, it may be lined with this substance.

Not only was this soft terrain calf burning and slow going, but in the full sun of the midday with a landscape devoid of any tree, shade or shelter – it was literally burning in the sun. The rest of the 8 miles was primarily fence walk with the only relief being very short diversions into an oak hammock bypassing the fence but often for just a few minutes or in very brief section the ground was at least composed of a firmer quality. The true irony was that in 8 miles of cow pasture securely fenced (preventing hikers from a more direct route) I saw absolutely no cows, save for the two escaped cows who had clearly been using my trail as their bathroom for some time! I have to admit that in retrospect I wish I had tried to focus more on how lovely the wide-open spaces were and appreciate what the trail was offering me, but it was challenging to rip my eyes away from watching my feet.

The very end of the trail cut through Oak Creek South Camp and then followed a fence for another 1.5 miles to Oak Creek trailhead, but luckily this fence path had a wide lovely swath of short grass on firm ground, which even though it was at the end of 40 miles over two days felt like walking on clouds compared to the previous section. Though the end of the trail was intense, challenging and perhaps not the most scenic, parts of the southernmost leg of Kissimmee were glorious, lush, mysterious, and even downright gleeful to experience.

17/02/2025

Trail Description for Big Cypress 75 North Gate (mm30.9) to L3 Canal in Seminole Section (mm 57.6) total of 27.7 trail miles (but was 33.8 with a bit of extra exploring). Logistics overview: parked at L3 Canal on Huff Bridge road prior to bridge, shuttled to I75 North Gate, camped at the gracious and paradisiacal New Testament Church (abundant water resupply). I did not see any other hikers or campers on route.

Having hiked the I75 North Gate to Seminole Reservation boundary before, I thought I knew what to expect, but this time I found a much drier trail filled with much more subtle wildlife in the canals. My previous hike had been in the height of Summer heat and rainy season, and the trail was virtually blanketed in behemoth gators who lounged right along the trail if not on the actual trail with complete and arguably appropriate entitlement. Those who did not block the trail made large splashy shows of trashing into the canals in protest of my existence in their domain. For the entirety of the section, both sides of the 5-6 foot dirt path were closely lined with canals brimming with water that at times crept beyond the boundary of the trail, making it difficult to impossible to give gators a “wide berth” as suggested by all hiking guides.

This time, I felt as though I had taken an alternative Disney route! The trail was bone dry and the canal section on the right was largely if not entirely dry for the complete distance. Though large gators were present on the left, they seemed far more content to stay on the far side of the can on the opposite bank and the number was far, far lower than my previous visit. Perhaps, the recent bubble had passed through, and they were bored of hikers. The ability to shift focus on other aspects of the trail other than gator awareness allowed my senses to more fully take in the subtler (less toothy and deadly) elements of the trail.

The first lovely sensory subtlety I noted began almost immediately and lasted for about 4.5 miles (as well and throughout the exploring I did on the first two side loops) was soft, sweet, floral scent omnipresent but not overpowering and often accentuated by what I have termed the fresh scent of green. It can only be described as the pleasant fragrance of grass and ferns thriving. It is the better and more wholesome variation of the odor of cut grass, but instead of the smelling of the carnage of mutilation of greenery, it has the aroma of soft peaceful life of the lush vegetation.

An abundance of birds populated the trail, and they too gravitated to the left where the water and food sources were more abundant. Great blue herons, tricolored herons, great egrets, anhinga, and smaller variety herons were perched on tall lookout spots of trees or gently swooping the run of the canal. The activity on the left certainly dominated the direction of my gaze, but any time I pulled my focus to the right I was not disappointed in finding several sections of wide sweeping open grassy fields pocketed into the palms. Though there was not an abundance of flowers there were sections of yellow tickseed, white duck potato, and endless miniature blooms in various shades of purple, blue, white and yellow.

Even with the minimal level of water, there was still one solidly full canal for the first 5.5 miles, but somehow not one biting insect interrupted the experience. The trail was so pleasant and dry that I was happily lured into exploring the red and yellow loops within the first 3 miles of the main trail. I clocked several camping opportunities and was grateful to be re-experiencing this trail in dry conditions allowing these loops to be accessed with a bit more ease! All sections and intersections of the trail are very clearly marked even including mileage indicators. However, there is one intersection after the 3 mile point that intersects on the left at a perfect 90 degree angle that is not the trail and is not marked.

Just before the 5 mile mark on the left lies Nobles Camp which is not only noted in the trail guide book as being reliable for water, but someone has also added in sharpie marker all caps an emphatic message of “WATER” with an arrow. At this point I had already added an extra 4 miles or so to my originally planned 17, so I trust there is some water filtering opportunity there but did not need to verify it myself! Just passing the intersection to Nobles Camp, a mildly notable temperature shift was perceptible, and not surprisingly this coincided with a vegetation shift with more oak trees and denser surroundings on both sides. Then very close to the trail on right, I heard the distinct crashing lumbering of a bear who did not want to share space with me. Though it was too dense for me to visually confirm, I am confident it was a bear and felt even more so a minute later when I walked by the only trail cam I saw in the whole 17 mile sections that day!

At mile 5.7 the Florida Trail hedges left, but the blue trail option that loops back to I75 called to me for another day’s adventure! After directing to the left, the trail became a it narrower and far denser on the sides generally; though it was similarly sand and rock packed trail as was the previous section, it was clear that motorized vehicle a far more rare in this section. I also found a few piles of cow manure though I did not get to see any wild cows roaming about. After 6 miles or so on the main trail feeling much less concerned about gators jumping out on the actual trail or even being extended just along the boundary of it (as they had been on my first hike through), just around a bend at mile 6.4 with a small bright green pond on the left and a wet dense marshy area on my right, I ran right into the largest gator I had seen all day (at least 10-12 feet) sprawled right along the edge of the trail with much smaller gator that was far too big to be this year’s offspring but was significantly dwarfed by the size of the prehistoric looking giant next to him. There was no going off trail without creating a great commotion and slowing any movement (though I know the reality of moving fast to evade a gator is falsely reassuring figment of my imagination) so I skirted as far towards the other edge of trail as possible and side stepped my way past at a moderate and respectful pace!

After a day of very calm wildlife vibes, a bear just 10 feet from trail and a significant representative of the gator community right on trail was a solid reminder to be vigilant – though I appreciated both encounters, I am always mindful to do my part to be aware and not put any animals in danger of feeling they need to interact with me. The rest of the 2 miles or so to the Seminole Reservation boundary was similarly narrow throughout but eventually the water receded as a slight elevation shift brought a shift to more of a pine flat surrounding. While it was dry during my hike, it had clear markings of sections being wet throughout other seasons. The scent of warm toasted pine needles filled the air that seemed to elevate a few degrees in temperature as it always does in pine flat sections.

Just beyond the boarder gate to the reservation area, the trail was significantly wider and though not paved, it was more road like. Due to the height of the trees in this section there were patches of shade throughout. At times both sides of the trail were lined waterfilled canals, but there were ample areas to hedge a bit under the trees and break in the shade if needed. Again, the gator presence here was understated and sedate, but the bird population was intensely concentrated in this area! About a mile after the gate, the path was strewn with so many feathers that I thought for certain I would see one my less favorite sights of hiking, a dead bird. However, I soon realized that the number, size and varied age of them indicated different points of shedding, and there was also a significant droppings evidence. Just as this epiphany rose through my consciousness it was as though it triggered a physical manifestation of the thought and an awe inspiring flock of egrets took flight all around and above me!

Overall, this last section before the road walk was pleasant and easy. There were some paths leading off the FT route that clearly were used for off road vehicles or for the swamp safari that has since COVID stopped operating. In its most wild and charming fashion, the Florida swamp and palms were already reclaiming their rightful territory and beginning to erase these inching forward on the edges and obstruction with blowdown that has had no one and no reason for removal. There is one lone abandoned buggy parked in this section, while upon spotting it made me reach for my bear spray and I realized once again that the threat I take most seriously on trail is not gators, bears, or venomous snakes/spiders but unknown humans! Luckily, it was empty and does not appear to be in use. Before reaching the road, which is only a short 3 miles from the gate entrance, I made sure to take a moment for a break as the road walk to camp was a 6 mile stretch with no real bathroom stops or shade!

Once one emerges from the last lovely vestiges of nature, a wide, dusty Boundary Road stretches out into the distance. It does have the advantage of being fairly untraveled, but there is virtually no shade, shelter or stops for 6 miles. Eventually, during the last two miles clearer signs of town appear and the lovely Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Musuem is a welcome marker just before the turn to reach the New Testament church which allows camping. Although the museum was closed the day, I was passing through for a festival elsewhere, it is open most days and is a gem of the region being affiliated with the Smithsonian. Luckily, I have visited many times and been able to attend several of the local festivals, so I was not too devastated, but I can whole heartedly recommend it.

After turning onto off boundary road and onto the main road of town Josie Billie Highway, the New Testament Church is just a few minutes down and across the highway. To say they allow camping is a vast, vast understatement. They have created the most intentional, kind, generous, and thorough support of hikers! They have a large tiki hut with tables, electric, potable water, and a fire pit. One can camp in this area or plunge into the nearby hammock for a few minute walk to a more secluded campsite, which also had a table and bench. They had the most luxurious, glorious, well stocked, bathroom and shower with every kind of toiletry and real, freshly cleaned towels. They also offer a laundry for hikers coming from the swamp! They have eco friendly bag full of mini supplies for each visitor: band aids, fever and anti-inflammatory meds, tooth brush & paste, and so much more. One can tell the thought they put into the needs of their guest as they even made sure to stock Skin So Soft original scent body lotion! Pastor Payne was welcoming, warm and a dedicated servant in the truest sense. The respite overnight here was a paradise!

The next day, I was up and on the road by 6:45am, but it was intensely foggy, and I reconciled myself that I might need to delay the day if the route was just on a narrow path right on the road. However, I was very pleased to find that almost the entirety of the three miles of road walk (if one stayed to the left) had sidewalks (though some were older and overgrown) or on some areas there was enough pavement to walk on the non-road side of the guardrail. There is one section just before and after the “8 Clans” bridge that the sidewalk is on the right side of the road. The fog was so thick almost nothing could be seen until it was within about 20 feet, and it lasted for hours – which allowed total cover from the sun until after 10am! Luckily, I have been able to see the town before, so I was able to enjoy the otherworldly fog. After about 3 miles and right after passing the rodeo grounds and the large yellow building (on the right), there is a bridge access to leave the highway and walk on a dirt grated road parallel but set back from the highway which is safer and moderately more scenic – though not any better for secluded bathroom stops! There are two orange markers on the guardrails but they could easily be missed – particularly in a deep fog.

Roughly 4 miles later an intense aroma of manure will envelope you and invade all your senses; this was ironic for me after 7 miles of hiking with no available bathroom options. You will soon be met with wave after wave of cattle with gaping, blank, semi-bewildered gazes that will make you question your wisdom in hiking if even the beasts of the fields cannot image why it would be done. Luckily, there is soon a ninety degree turn to left that begins a much more secluded walk parallel to Huff Bridge Road. Along this section there may be a periodic white truck heading to the station or fields, but other than the cows, birds and a very few smaller canal gators, there is little traffic (and finally a chance for an imperfect, but reasonably private bathroom stop if necessary)! Soon another turn joins to the grated gravel road for a very sunny two mile hike to the L3 Canal where one is ominously greeted by massive flocks of buzzards. Though the end of the hike was certainly less scenic, it was still an interesting day, and I was glad to have connected two large sections of personal hike!

17/12/2024

Day 5 Overseas heritage Trail (Key Lantern Inn, Ismoralda to Drift Hotel, Largo) I awoke with just hint of feeling the epic hike of the day before in my joints but not nearly as much as I might have anticipated. I think if it were not for it having been on pavement, I would not have felt it at all. I find the harder impact and consistency of the trail on pavement to actually be harder on my body than a more varied natural trail, even if it is a bit more challenging.

Since it was decidedly more freezing for me (at 62) with high winds and I knew I had a shorter hike, I decided to indulge and visit the famous Mangrove Mikes Café just .4 miles from the Inn. The vibe was the Keys at their best and even though I avowedly never eat breakfast, I admit their monster pancakes and aromatic bacon tested even my resolve! However, I remained faithful to my tried and true morning start and ordered two large cups of steaming coffee, which was unusually tasty (and not just because of my morning fog – it is said to be the best on the island). I sat and enjoyed the atmosphere which was adorned with a collage of fishing themed décor mixed with historical memorabilia while I wrote a bit to catch up from the night before when I had no chance of coherent record keeping! (See pic of Skull which is their logo made by a local artist entirely out of Florida themed elements.)

After 45 minutes or so at 7:30am, I was ready to brave the cold – and I was even more ready to reach my beach “resort” which would be at the height of the day’s temperature forecasted for 78 degrees. The first portion of the day’s walk was very populated and pedestrian, but Ismoralda is absolutely oozing with quint and quirky charm! Again, I found myself noting galleries, shops, and historical stops that I would need to revisit!

The sidewalk on the left was present for almost the entirety of the day, though at times later in the day I headed to road right to secure some shade. After mile 3.5 I started to realize that old US1 on road right paralleled almost the whole day’s trail and although there were no sidewalks, there was no traffic either! Since it had a taller tree line with ample shade and the day was warming up, I decided to keep to the old US1 as often as possible dipping out only for bridges. The first bridge was a road walk and it had perhaps the narrowest bike path I encountered in all of the Keys, but at least it was short! The second bridge was a road walk, but it actually had a railed off section for bikers and pedestrians which was very convenient as this one spanned well over a mile.

Another convenient aspect of the day was the ample stopping points for bathroom breaks and water fills. It allowed for a lighter pack, and although it may have only lessened the load by a pound or so – I could feel it! With thoughts of my resort beach propelling me forward, I was making 17 minute miles even thought the wind which was well over 20mph was directly against me. I reached my reward after 13.9 miles before 1pm! The drift hotel was the absolute opposite of my previous evening’s stay in every aspect (except the staff who were also exceptionally lovely).

The entire location had a light, airy, beach vibe decorated in hues of white, blues and cool greys. The kind staff let me check in early, so I could ditch my gear and head to the beach! The rooms were in a series of buildings, and in a lucky twist mine was almost the last one and was practically on the beach! Each occupant had their own little sitting area with several plush options to relax in the sun. Once on the small but picturesque beach I found a few thatched pavilions, loungers and plenty of sun – though even more wind! It was so windy at the edge of the beach that the water (still gorgeous in its hues ranging from light emerald greens to turquoise to deep azure blues) was crashing along the rocky edge rhythmically producing a salty spray that the scented the air.

The palms were whipping in the blustering wind as well, so I placed my lounger a bit farther back from the edge where there was some wind cover and sprawled out to enjoy the rays. Somehow the same sun that I had been dogmatically evading for the last four days was then just barely enough to keep me warm in my stationary state in the wind! Even in the gusty conditions a flock of Egrets joined me and pecked about in the sand. Clearly, they were used to guests, and I was thrilled to have them circle about me for the day.

Around 4:30pm the wind and lower temperatures won out and headed in to my plush room to shower (with actual shampoo that was included)! I was a bit perplexed that I had paid such a significant amount less for this room than I had for Key Lantern Inn, but I suppose value is in the proximity to the necessary location one has to stop when hiking! I headed back to the beach in all my layers of wool to enjoy the 5:45pm sunset, which was not at the perfect angle for this location but was, nonetheless, satisfying with all the colors of the Keys! (The video is my non-expert attempt at a time lapse that should have had a lower interval of seconds in the timing, and I finally cut it after catching the same poor couple capsize twice in front of the camera!)

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