07/07/2022
Yesterday in Iceland
Tuesday, July 5
When traveling, I always like to schedule what I call a “Zero Day” to just explore the town where I’m staying, rest and catch up, and eat some great food. We did all three yesterday. In the morning, I walked around the property where we are staying, which is right on the edge of the shoreline of the North Atlantic. Lots of interesting and different plants and seaweed. We then walked around the town a bit, had some lunch, and did a little shopping. I’m not a big shopper but I managed to find something awesome for my grandson.
There are four restaurants in the town of Grundarfjardarbaer including a food truck, Maestro, that sells Iceland’s famous hot dogs. I’d already had lunch at the Harbour Café but since I couldn’t leave Iceland without trying a hot dog, I bought one and took a couple of bites. It was different than an American hot dog, meatier somehow, and the mustard was kind of tan and runny. I didn’t feel the need to buy a hot dog kit to take home as many Americans do but I was glad I tried it.
Next we took a short hike to a waterfall that is right above the town. I have seen more waterfalls than I thought was possible on this trip so if you love waterfalls, Iceland is the place to be.
For dinner, we decided to try Bjargarsteinn Mathus, the nicest of the restaurant choices here. It was, in fact, very nice. At first we felt a little underdressed in hiking gear but then realized everyone else was wearing the same thing. In our experience so far, Iceland does not appear to be a very fancy place and Icelanders put on no airs at all. But regardless of our attire, the food was magnificent. We decided to splurge on the five-course tasting menu. The first course was fried seaweed topped with a fried fish skin served with a skyr (Icelandic yogurt) dipping sauce and a seaweed wine made with cloves. Very different. I was a bit dubious, but when in Rome, I try to do what the Romans do, and I made a respectable stab at it. It was quite interesting. Not sure if I ever need to eat it again, but I was intrigued.
Next up was my favorite, fish soup. Brimming with shrimp, scallops, white fish, red onion in a savory broth with some flaked seaweed (are you sensing a trend here?) for seasoning. Served with hearty Icelandic bread, I would have licked the little pot it was served in if I thought I wouldn’t look ridiculous. This was followed by a palate-cleansing blueberry sorbet.
The main course was a choice between horse, lamb, or a white fish similar to flounder. I’m a somewhat adventurous eater, but as a horsewoman, horse meat was a bridge too far, so I chose the white fish. It was served with a creamed barley with parmesan which was surprisingly yummy, and roasted broccoli and cauliflower with some picked red onion on the side. It was truly an amazing dish.
I then mentioned to our server that I might be too full to eat the finale, which was what they described as “chocolate cake”. She scoffed and told me that when I saw it, I would make room. I didn’t argue. She let us sit there for quite a while, perhaps in the hope that I would feel less full after a while. When she finally brought it, it was a little lava cake (fitting as we are surrounded by volcanos) that was heavenly. It was a sweet finish to an incredibly lovely meal.
After dinner, although we were loath to put on swimsuits in our over-satiated state, we went to the local swimming pool. As I mentioned in an earlier post, nearly every village of any size at all has a heated outdoor pool as well as hot tubs and the locals gather at these swim complexes much like they do in other countries at pubs. I swam some laps and then relaxed in one of the hot tubs and talked to a young woman who works here leading kayaking tours in the summer and then goes to Lapland, Finland to lead snowmobile tours in the winter. What a life she has!
That pretty much did it for our Zero Day, and we were well-rested and well-fed to tackle the last couple of days of our trip. Where will your next trip be? Helen Keller once said that life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all – make yours an adventure!