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Some places just have magic in their bones: the whiff of a vast Cire Trudon candle in the lobby; the gleam of 200-year-o...
09/11/2022

Some places just have magic in their bones: the whiff of a vast Cire Trudon candle in the lobby; the gleam of 200-year-old oak banisters; or the hum from a perfectly low-lit bar, where a martini trolley is being wheeled from table to table. The Connaught is a place where the original lifts still creak elegantly, rain patters on the roof, and solid walls make it feel like, whatever troubles befall the world, all will be well within. The setting is just right, too: spotless Mount Street, with its mustard-bright awnings, high heels click-clacking on the pavement, and line of shiny black taxis with yellow lights winking. Removed from the traffic but pin-sharp in the heart of Mayfair’s thrills, it is first and foremost a cocooning retreat, enveloping and deeply comfortable. But there’s also a buzz in spaces such as the new Red Room, a sly speakeasy hidden beyond a velvet-curtained doorway, and a sense that things are happening in some nook somewhere. For all that it does elevated Michelin dining, there’s also a corner to dive into for a late-night hamburger and frites. Bathrooms are wall-to-wall marble; some beds, such as the carved four-poster in the Prince’s Lodge, are so high off the ground they need steps to climb into. Everything is immaculate, spoiling, and just so damn smart.

Umaid Bhawan is part of one of the world’s largest private residences, and still the occasional home of Jodhpur’s former...
09/11/2022

Umaid Bhawan is part of one of the world’s largest private residences, and still the occasional home of Jodhpur’s former royal family, so few hotels are as vast and unashamedly regal. Finished in 1943, the palace is a glorious blend of aesthetics: Partly inspired by Angkor Wat, its Rajasthani style was injected with notes of Art Deco by Polish artist–turned–interior designer Stefan Norblin, a famed illustrator in his home country who painted the striking frescoes as interpretations of Hindu mythology. But for all that its huge, pillared central dome can seem intimidating, as can those portraits of former maharajas, you'll feel at home here. That’s largely down to the warm staff in bright turbans, who make you feel entirely deserving of the Champagne breakfasts, raw-milk baths, and folk performances in the marble-columned pavilion. It isn’t, in the end, a place in which to be overawed—but to be embraced, and very happily spoiled.

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