29/05/2019
LivingWell thank you for such a wonderful review. It was wonderful spending the day with you. Come back soon.
Last Saturday’s Culinary Tour of Harlem yielded some delicious bites - all representative of the diversity of Harlem. Led by Taste Harlem Food & Cultural Tours, we began at Lenox Saphire Restaurant (where I earlier did “Saturday Morning With Pat”), eating grits and chicken and waffles. Grits, made of corn, are incredibly versatile and Jackie of the tour company had us try it four ways - with maple syrup, Tabasco, onion compote and salt and pepper. One of my favorite ways to eat grits is with cheese, but that wasn’t on our plate. I can’t say I’m a fan of grits with Tabasco but next to cheese, salt and pepper is my favorite.
After a tour of historic buildings, murals and architectural landmarks, including the Apollo, we made a stop for lunch at the only full-service Supermarket in Harlem. Three stories high, we were served lunch fresh from the Deli in the top floor Beer Garden. Mac ‘n Cheese, Green Bean Casserole, BBQ Brisker and cornbread showed off Harlem’s Southern roots at their best.
Our next stop was my favorite one - a Senegalese restaurant. Across Africa, different countries lay claim to the best Jolloff Rice. I have to say, the Senegalese version was sooo good. With various condiments - including a house-made mayonnaise, we could personalize it to our taste.
The main was grouper fish, cassava, cabbage and habanero pepper. The tour member next to my actually ate her pepper 😤! The tour leader had to quickly get her a glass of milk, as I sat by feeling badly for her but wondering what she had been thinking when she popped that fiery bomb into her mouth.
Next out from the kitchen came bowls of fried plantains (very good) and grilled lamb chops (beyond good). At the end of the meal we were served a Hibiscus drink that made us all sit up and take notice. Deeply floral, it was the perfect ending to a delicious meal.
We then strolled down to Mr. Lee Lee’s bakery where his specialty - apricot and chocolate rugelach - helped us understand why Mr. Lee has become a Harlem institution.
We then toured a fish market that has served Harlem for at least half a century. Customers stroll through, filling metal bowls with their fish of choice and fresh vegetable. Folks behind the counter will clean them and even steam them so they are ready to eat when they get home. It’s quite an operation.
Our last bite was provided by Jackie, our tour leader who had brought her favorite almond croissants from our first stop, Lenox Saphire, for us to enjoy. They were the croissants that switched her loyalty from chocolate to almond and I could see why. There were fresh, rich and flaky.
With that, we said farewell to Harlem and it’s magic. I will, no doubt, return soon.