16/06/2017
VIVADA -
The Ultimate delta Cruise
S.K. Chakrabarti IFS (RETD)
" Like to have a visit to the mystic land of mesmerising beauty, the Sundarbans, - the land of tigers, the land of largest estuarine crocodiles? Like to have a hastle free cruise along the meandering rivers to this treasure trove with ultimate pleasure and comfort? Get on to M.V. Parmahamsa , the luxury cruiser for a journey to the delta in utmost comfort."
So said my friends. Without any delay we trooped to the office of Vivada for a trip to Sundarbans in great style and comfort. Mr. Nath, the Chairman and M.D. of Vivada Cruises readily agreed for four of us to make the trip in their Luxury Cruiser ship, M.V. Parmahamsa travelling to and exploring the islands in Sundarbans in our riverine journey all through. We boarded the beautiful 53 meter long four decked cruiser with 12 Luxury and 20 Deluxe A/C Rooms, each having attached bathrooms at the Millennium Park Jetty opposite the Shipping Corporation of India Office building on the scheduled day. We were accomodated in the spacious Luxury Rooms in the First deck in the awesome vessel with all amenities like house telephones, tea-coffee makers, a small but informative library, a cruise gym, an ayurvedic massage parlour, an art gallery, a conference room along with a very cheerful team of staff taking due care of us. In effect it was a moving luxury hotel.
As we embarked we were extended a warm welcome on the vessel with snacks and juice. Security procedures were demonstrated to us. The tourists who included foreigners, NRIs and Indians listened with rapt attention. We were also given a small introduction to the trip schedule and briefed about Sundarbans, the largest deltaic mangrove forest in the world and the fragile ecosystem, threatened with effects of climate change.
As we cruised past Kolkata leaving behind Babu Ghat and the man of War Jetty in Princepghat the Indian Botanic Gardens and the historic Kolkata port we enjoyed a sumptuous late breakfast in the luxurious Dinning Hall. As we sat on the front deck savouring a cuppa coffee we were literally enthralled with the sight of habitations passing by the greeneries on either bank. As we went past Budge Budge we could see the electricity generating station of Calcutta electric Supply Corporation. Our cameraman friend became busy with his camera and I moved around exploring the 600 Ton ship. After a shower and a little rest a couple of hours later we were ushered into the Dinning Hall for launch. The chefs did duly take care of our appetite and taste buds with a wide array of mouth watering dishes and delicacies. Fully satiating the hunger and more I retired to the library and tried to read about our ultimate destination, the Sundarbans. I did spend a little quite , quality time there and used my small camera as always to keep some of the beautiful scenes passing by in perceptual memory.
Hours went by as I was lost in the charm of nature in all its glory with the magnificent tree lines on the banks, the flocks of birds in the sky the sun rays glittering on the waves created by our moving ship. Again a call up was there for the afternoon tea and sitting on the front deck was the greatest pleasure observing and photographing the glorious sunset as we crossed Diamond Harbour and the Haldia port loomed large on the distant bank. In the evening beautiful dances (Gaudiya Nritya) were presented on board to the delight of the tourists. Then cruising past the Fishing capital of South Bengal, Namkhana through the narrow channel we anchored close to Pathar Pratima for the night. Dinner was great with Lobsters and Sea food among others.
Early in the morning as the glorious sun was peeping through the mist and cloud we were awakened with a call and a cup of tea and transferred to a small vessel to reach Bhagabatpur to have a look at the Crocodile Project of the West Bengal Forest Department. This was our first introduction with the impenetrable mangrove forests, tbe treasure trove of myriads of mysterious life forms. We saw the scientifically maintained hatcheries of estuarine crocodiles and a large number of young crocs of varying ages from a few months to a few years. It was a great experience. As we returned to M.V. Parmahamsa and moved ahead there were mangroves all around us. We entered the Project Tiger area where the salt tolerant plant species of amazing diversity and breathtaking beauty, the mangroves, were seen to cover the intertidal regions along the creeks and estuaries near the river mouth. These play a very significant role in protecting the hinterland including Kolkata against cyclones and the ingress of sea water during tidal surge. We were wondering at the immense biological diversity and the nursery and breeding ground of several life forms such as prawns, crabs, fishes and molluscs. We could really gauge the sustenance of ecological security of theses coastal areas as well as livelihood security of thousands of fishermen and others who live in these areas. Sundarbans, one of the UNESCO's World Heritage sites(declared in 1985) and honoured as a Biosphere Reserve (in 1989) is a unique assemblage of the magical, mystical biological diversity that is the home of tigers in a totally different forest area unlike the rest of the tigers in varying ecosystems. As we were transferred into a smaller steamer we got down to Dobanki elevated caged walk as we scoured the forest below us in search of the ever elusive Sundarban tiger. We could not find any but saw some very fresh pug marks which made us aware that the king of the forest was very much there. We saw the foot marks of spotted deer, wild boar and scores of smaller animals and crabs.
As we boarded the ship again we were taken to an island, Bali where we got down and had an interesting visit to Bali village and had useful interaction with the villagers on their mode of agriculture, rain water harvesting, fisheries development. We were told that quite frequently tigers visit the island though in recent times there has been no human mortality due to tiger attack.
As we anchored at Bali, the entertainment at night was a beautiful folklore with folk songs of Sundarbans in worshipping Bonobibi, the goddess of the Sundarban forests. It was exquisitely natural and a real dream of mythology that was enacted before us. The dinner was very special with Lobsters, sea food and very many special items as the Chef excelled in his culinary skill.
Early next morning we went to Sudhanyakhali and climbed the watch tower and scanned the beautifully laid view lines for the tiger still eluding us but were presented with some beautiful deer population, monkeys busy with themselves wild boar and crocodiles besides seeing a large number of birds, stunningly beautiful spectacular in diversity amidst the magical mysterious mangrove a proud heritage of India.
Sajnekhali wad our last place of halt where we had an experience of a wonderfully crafted magnificently designed Museum by the Forest Department, depicting the biodiversity of Sundarbans and the culture, lifestyle and livelihood of the population. It is a beautiful treasure that gives a bird's eye view of Sundarbans at large. As our return journey started i could not have enough of the awesome waterscape, the eric creeks always poignant with the possibility of a springing tiger or a growl and a roar of the king, the sheer width of the majestic rivers, even up to 7 kms like Matla, almost resembling a sea. The pleasure of spending time on the most luxurious riverine cruiser amidst the impenetrable mangrove forests, enjoying the most sumptuous mouth watering food and the comfort of air -conditioned rooms with the neatly designed bathrooms attached still remain fresh in my memory. The pleasure and the experience amidst of the world's largest mangroves will long remain etched in my inward eyes.
The author , Sachikanta Chakrabarti, a retired former Principal Chief Conservator of forests, Karnataka is a staunch nature lover and a keen environmentalist.
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