Viktor Varoshkin IFMGA Mountain Guide

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Viktor Varoshkin IFMGA Mountain Guide Professional guiding and instructing services around the globe in the fields of Climbing, Skiing & Mountaineering.
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After 25+ film festival selections and screenings, 11 awards including Grivel GOLDEN AXE our rather funny movie is made ...
02/06/2024

After 25+ film festival selections and screenings, 11 awards including Grivel GOLDEN AXE our rather funny movie is made public by Never Know Productions

Producer - Never Know Productions
Narrator - Nathan Cooper
Director - Georgi Kerezov & Stoil Dimitrov
Script - Alexander Vladimirov, Georgi Kerezov, Hristo Hristov, Stoil Dimitrov
Cinematography - Hristo Hristov, Stoil Dimitrov, Georgy Kerezov
Editing - Stoil Dimitrov & Georgi Kerezov
Colorist - Boris Tivchev
Sound design - Kamen Atanasov
VFX - Kristina Dasheva
Visual graphics - Hristo Petrov
Aerial cinematography - Hristo Hristov
Photographer - Ivaylo Donchev
Additional footage - Lozica, Denis Ducroz

Supported by:

Walltopia Climbing Center
Stenata
Volkswagen Лекотоварни автомобили
TrangoWorld Official
SIGMA
Compagnie du Mont Blanc

Right next to the Aiguille du Midi peak, situated in a sea of mountains at an altitude of 3842m, stands proudly the legendary 50m high granite monolith Genda...

Challenge Completed. Right after 'Parallel World' I wanted to understand more about the grading so I can transfer it to ...
19/05/2024

Challenge Completed.

Right after 'Parallel World' I wanted to understand more about the grading so I can transfer it to Bulgaria. That's why I challenged myself to flash all the routes in the 'Tomorrow's World' cave as red point climbing never delivers the clear picture.

So, here it is. Flash of:

Fear Index - D12
Edge of Tomorrow - D13
Let Them Eat Cake - D13+
Oblivion - D14
Je Ne Sais Quoi - D14+
Tomorrow's World - D14/14+
Invocation - D14+
French Connection - D15-
A Line Above the Sky - D15

*The term 'Flash' may not be the best one as some routes share common sections but my poor memory and the sheer length of the routes certainly made it always feel that way...

Based on this experience I can now suggest the following grades for our benchmarks:
Snimachen Den - D11
Ali Babach - D13+/D14

XCoSports Bulgaria Stenata EDELRID Garmont Action-Section GripMonkeys

02/05/2024

After a month spent in a parallel world I somehow became the first person to repeat a D16 in DTS.

'Parallel world' is the culmination of 'Invocation /D14+/' and 'War without end' /D15+/.
The first glimpse of the line had a devastating effect on my mind. The unending sea of quickdraws stretched over 60 meters above my head summoned every bit of physical and mental resilience I had. The only survivable approach for a line that refuses to end is step by step.
I've always been too spontaneous, chaotic and impatient for such an ordeal, but I proved adaptable.
Thank you, 'Parallel World'.

Besides my sponsors EDELRID, XCoSports Bulgaria, Garmont, and Stenata I want to say special THANKS to Action-Section who believed in our bold plans with Ivaylo Angelov and provided us with the cutting edge equipment designed to endure the hardest of the hard.

Also, big thanks to my wife for all her support and understanding. Sticking with David against Goliath is always taxing. At the same time our daughter Ada couldn't care less about my vanity struggles. Thanks to her for delivering what's actually real. 🙂

Last but not least - thanks to our filming crew Alexander Valchev for the utter dedication. By the end of the year our story will be shared. Stay tuned!

What a crisp day at the limestone Tsunami !The sun gazing above meadows covered by dry powder. Skiing over it would have...
21/01/2024

What a crisp day at the limestone Tsunami !
The sun gazing above meadows covered by dry powder. Skiing over it would have felt like sacrilege.
Dry tooling though...
Today I managed to climb a D13/D14 with +12kg on my body. A turning point in my preparation for what is to come.
April is hiding the tomorrow's world.

XCoSports Bulgaria
Stenata
Garmont
EDELRID
Gripmonkeys Gripmonkeys

С голям интензитет съпреживях втората половина от това видео. Напомни ми на много сходна ситуация, в която трябваше да в...
10/12/2023

С голям интензитет съпреживях втората половина от това видео. Напомни ми на много сходна ситуация, в която трябваше да вися на едното си сечиво (без крила) и забито до дръжка в надвесения сняг на около 15 метра под върха на Серо Торе.
Изненадан съм да видя две големи, по мое мнение, грешки при атлет от такъв калибър.
- Мастър пойнт между сечивата щеше да увеличи здравината на точката доста повече от два пъти.
- Включване само на едно въже щеше да увеличи елонгацията двойно и да обере натоварване при накъсано спускане от осигуряващия, а при отказ на точката щеше да намали повече от двойно дължината на падането (ако осигуряващия обира невключеното въже). Макар и с прага отдолу, това никак не е без значение.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9Q5toY_c54&ab_channel=ChrisAlstrinFilms

XCoSports Bulgaria
EDELRID
Stenata
Garmont
#стената

Here's another raw video for you all but I promise it's worth a watch if you've ever been a little sketched on a climb. What Scott does on this climb I've n...

Заповядайте в магазини Stenata  на НЕчерен петък и подкрепете устойчивия им поглед към този модерен покупателен навик. :...
17/11/2023

Заповядайте в магазини Stenata на НЕчерен петък и подкрепете устойчивия им поглед към този модерен покупателен навик. :)

🔥Ние сме Черната (мерино) овца, която през този месец ви провокира с НЕ-Черен петък 🙃⚡Какво означава това❓

🍀През ноември в духа на стремежа ни към устойчивост бихме искали да ви предложим продукти на наистина изгодни цени, които ще ви бъдат истински необходими и ще ви служат дълго време - екипировка, която ще обикнете, защото ще се превърне в неотменима част от активния ви начин на живот.

❎ Не подкрепяме пазаруването на всяка цена и консуматорската треска в няколко дни от годината.
✅ Пазарувайте за спорт, но не и "за спорта"!

Разгледайте предложенията с намаления до -50% тук:
https://shorturl.at/ABFPY

Поредните Дни на предизвикателствата  са на хоризонта! Аз лично съм заинтригуван и от тазгодишното българско присъствие ...
23/10/2023

Поредните Дни на предизвикателствата са на хоризонта! Аз лично съм заинтригуван и от тазгодишното българско присъствие в тях. :)

⚡ 18-ите "Дни на предизвикателствата" са близо - запази своите билети на промо цена до 13 ноември на www.predizvikatelstva.com/билети . Побързай, защото в продажба са точно 3⃣2⃣0⃣ места в кино "Люмиер" 🙏

🏔 Любимият фестивал ни предлага един тридневен празник на приключенския дух, планинарската култура, спортовете на открито 🏃‍♂🏂 и любовта към природата 🤩🍀

🎯 Бъди сред тези, които ще се насладят на едни от най-добрите заглавия от света на приключенското кино 🎞 през последните години, защото те очакват:

📌7 дългометражни и 2 къси филма;
📌8 премиери за България;
📌4 специални госта от 3 държави;
📌инициативи за планината, биоразнообразието и хората;
📌беседи на важни за общността теми;
📌работилница на Академия Първа помощ със свободен достъп;
📌среща със скъпи приятели и неповторима атмосфера;
📌С всеки закупен билет получаваш 15% отстъпка за избрани стоки в магазини "Стената".

👉 Своите билети на ранна цена можеш да вземеш както от магазини "Стената", така и онлайн на www.predizvikatelstva.com/билети

Есенната разпродажба в магазини Стената настъпи! :)
15/10/2023

Есенната разпродажба в магазини Стената настъпи! :)

🍂 Златната есен идва със златна възможност да се сдобиете с желана екипировка с до -50% 🍂

Един наистина широк списък с категории - от всяка от тях надничат примамливи оферти, които не са за изпускане! Артикули от лятната ни колекция + още много, което ще ви бъде полезно през всички сезони 🤩

🍂Палатки и къмпинг аксесоари
🍂Раници - туристически, катерачески, за бягане и колоезене;
🍂Слънчеви очила;
🍂Обувки и сандали;
🍂Еспадрили, седалки, въжета и аксесоари за катерене;
🍂Почистващи,перилни и импрегниращи препарати за екипировка

Разгледайте тук: https://rb.gy/65yhr

Изборът е ваш 🙏

Grivel Golden Axe Award! Extremely grateful for the honorable recognition by Adventure Outdoor Fest in Italy!           ...
02/07/2023

Grivel Golden Axe Award! Extremely grateful for the honorable recognition by Adventure Outdoor Fest in Italy!












#стената

With some delay here is the video following the first repeat of 'Ali Babach' - D13/D14 in an exhausting DTS style - no f...
24/06/2023

With some delay here is the video following the first repeat of 'Ali Babach' - D13/D14 in an exhausting DTS style - no figure 4 or better known as 'Yaniro'.

XCoSports Bulgaria
EDELRID
Stenata
Garmont

#стената

The video follows the first repeat of "Ali Babach" - a D13/D14 climb set by Boyko Lalov & Mincho Petkov in 2011.The line is climbed in DTS style - without th...

Spot the climber                #стената                 #витоша
07/05/2023

Spot the climber






  #стената
#витоша

Имам удоволствието да поканя всички заинтересовани на семинара "Алпинизмът отвън и отвътре". По идея и покана на моя скъ...
19/04/2023

Имам удоволствието да поканя всички заинтересовани на семинара "Алпинизмът отвън и отвътре".
По идея и покана на моя скъп приятел Велин Белев, то ще се състои на 24.04 от 17:00 часа в галерия УниАрт към Нов Български Университет.

Под формата на презентация и последваща дискусия ви каня да разгледаме алпинизма не просто като действие във външния свят, а като въздействие във вътрешния.

П.С.
Местата са ограничени, а входът свободен и
без предварително записване.

Линк към събитието:
https://news.nbu.bg/bg/events/seminar-alpinizmyt-otvyn-i-otvytre!69283?fbclid=IwAR07eYWSk3kJeqxGLB_5hS7miTkYcL1AIGvkYaHH1F2rw04kwR4_l6A_0q4

As promised - a screening of Electric Avenue on the premiere of REEL ROCK 17 in Bulgaria.The place is Walltopia Climbing...
05/04/2023

As promised - a screening of Electric Avenue on the premiere of REEL ROCK 17 in Bulgaria.
The place is Walltopia Climbing Center, the rest is in the event information.
See you there!

XCoSports Bulgaria
EDELRID
Stenata
Garmont

#стената
#рила #планина #зимнапланина #скакавица

Премиера за БългарияREEL ROCK 17само в Walltopia Climbing Center Купете билет Бъдете част от първата прожекция в България на най- новото издание на Reel Rock 17, представен само и единств...

The first and certainly not the last award that goes to Never Know Productions  and Beardfrost Productions  for the shor...
01/04/2023

The first and certainly not the last award that goes to Never Know Productions and Beardfrost Productions for the short climbing movie "Electric Avenue" following our new line on Gendarme des Cosmiques.
The guys know their craft!
For everybody who still hasn't seen it - stay tuned as there will be a screening at a special place in Sofia anytime soon.

XCoSports Bulgaria
EDELRID
Stenata
Garmont

#стената
#рила #планина #зимнапланина #скакавица

Заповядайте на Голямата пролетна разпродажба в магазин Стената - Младост!
22/03/2023

Заповядайте на Голямата пролетна разпродажба в магазин Стената - Младост!

💚Пролетта е тук, скъпи приятели! Да си я честитим и да си пожелаем да ни донесе много нови приключения и красиви вдъхновения сред природата 🌿🌱

💥🙏С настъпването и при нас идва и традиционната ни физическа разпродажба, в която цените достигат изключителни намаления - такива, на каквито можем да се радваме един път в годината!

💎 Своя скъпоценен камък сред намалените артикули можете да откриете при нас между 27 и 31 март в Стената-Младост от 11 до 19 ч.

👉 Вижте повече тук: https://bit.ly/3JXbEco

Моята компресирана и лична Lockdown история вече е достъпна за гледане.Сърдечно благодаря на SEED Foundation, че превърн...
16/03/2023

Моята компресирана и лична Lockdown история вече е достъпна за гледане.
Сърдечно благодаря на SEED Foundation, че превърнаха пътя ми в послание.
Не пропускайте да видите и останалите 4 епизода в канала - всеки едно волно или неволно човешко опълчване срещу вцепенението на света.

Приятно гледане!

XCoSports Bulgaria
EDELRID
Stenata
Garmont

#стената
#рила #планина #зимнапланина #скакавица

Виктор Варошкин - алпийски водачДва свята синхронизирани в своето свиване.Светът на един човек ще се свие до стая, а светът на всички до колективен затвор.Ге...

A silver medal on the national competition of mixed and dry.Congrats to BFCA and  for the flawless organization and for ...
09/03/2023

A silver medal on the national competition of mixed and dry.
Congrats to BFCA and for the flawless organization and for keeping the flame of this demanding discipline alive!



Stenata


#стената
#рила #планина #зимнапланина #скакавица

I was quite shocked to clip the chain of "Ali Babach", the hardest Dry tooling line in Bulgaria, on my very third attemp...
18/02/2023

I was quite shocked to clip the chain of "Ali Babach", the hardest Dry tooling line in Bulgaria, on my very third attempt. The route is a solid D13 /presumably D14/ forcing its way through an unrelenting overhang that leaves you lowered 15+ meters away from the base of the wall.
Just a casual attempt for working the moves turned into a first repeat after a decade of decaying interest towards the line.
But the wonder of the day didn't end with me.
Ivaylo, who nearly fainted out of effort to reach the last hold of the route attempted a second try after me - a thing he didn't consider even possible as the line just knocks you out for the day if you fall in the last third.
This time he started with the intention of some-how-getting to a place where I found a resting position, just to check it out for next time.
And here it was... no need of next time. He clipped the same chain.

Thanks to Ivo and Rosen for the beta and constant navigation!

EDELRID
Stenata
XCoSports Bulgaria
Garmont


Mixed climbing at Skakavitsa with  and  Angelov               #стената                   #рила      #планина  #зимнаплан...
17/02/2023

Mixed climbing at Skakavitsa with and Angelov






#стената
#рила #планина #зимнапланина #скакавица

During my 10 minutes daily ritual of re****ed scrolling down the newsfeed I stumbled upon [quite randomly] a photo witho...
09/02/2023

During my 10 minutes daily ritual of re****ed scrolling down the newsfeed I stumbled upon [quite randomly] a photo without any information about it.

I stopped because something clicked. A granite configuration so specific in shape.
These particular features of rock were already carved in my otherwise declining memory...

And in an instant flash I got it!
A climbing celebrity is probably trying to free 'The Approach Team Line' - a 540m 6c, A2+ route in Patagonia, set up by me and M. Marovski in the not so distant 2016.

I am amazed by my brain that tends to forget just about everything regarding the daily routine but strictly remembers the geometry of a random 10 square meters of rock high up the north face of El Mocho...

EDELRID
Stenata
XCoSports Bulgaria
Garmont


08/02/2023

Две титанични кино вечери след едногодишно 'COVID-19' затишие отново са тук.
Заповядайте!

XCoSports Bulgaria

02/02/2023
Заповядайте на предстоящите "Дни на Предизвикателствата" ! Наред с очертаните акценти ще може да видите и премиерата на ...
23/01/2023

Заповядайте на предстоящите "Дни на Предизвикателствата" ! Наред с очертаните акценти ще може да видите и премиерата на нашия филм "Electric Avenue", проследяващ историята /и българската следа в нея/ на най-легендарното парче гранит в масива на Монблан - Gendarme des Cosmiques.

Очакваме ви!

*
Линк към трейлър на филма в коментарите.

Stenata
EDELRID
Garmont
XCoSports Bulgaria

Full traverse of the mighty Eiger over /Mittellegi > South ridge/ after a streneous acclimatization on L'Index, Chapel d...
15/07/2022

Full traverse of the mighty Eiger over /Mittellegi > South ridge/ after a streneous acclimatization on L'Index, Chapel de la Gliere, Entreves & Dent du Geant.

For good or for bad this concludes my activity above 3000m.a.s.l. until the second heat wave ravaging the high mountains is over.

EDELRID
Stenata
XCoSports Bulgaria
Garmont


Last week's thundery weather interfered with our plan to climb the Dru traverse.Petit Dru - the summit known as a 'Shot ...
08/07/2022

Last week's thundery weather interfered with our plan to climb the Dru traverse.
Petit Dru - the summit known as a 'Shot in the Sky' needed a substitute that matched the poetic description...
And out of a sudden, the stunning geometry of a specific peak pierced my mind.
Almost 500 meters of trad climbing up to 6b, executed on a flawless granite, took us to the top of the most renowned granite spire in Europe - Aiguille Dibona.

In the perfect company of my colleague George, Zhelyazko and Melina.

EDELRID
BaseCamp
Stenata
XCoSports Bulgaria
Garmont

Post storm conditions and mind bending exposure on Aiguille du Diable. Few granite razors of the Mont Blanc massif evoke...
06/07/2022

Post storm conditions and mind bending exposure on Aiguille du Diable. Few granite razors of the Mont Blanc massif evoke so much dread, marvel and humility.
On-sight guiding on places like this feels way better in the company of a colleague. Thanks to Milen Bratanov for aiding me in the delivery of a 17 hours of wild alpine climbing to the Coast guard of Canada.
+6 4000m+ summits for Katherine and David !

EDELRID
BaseCamp
Stenata
XCoSports Bulgaria
Garmont

Some impressions from the beginning of the season in Chamonix. Once again tricky weather and short windows shift the gui...
26/06/2022

Some impressions from the beginning of the season in Chamonix. Once again tricky weather and short windows shift the guiding grounds from the big and committing summits to the small technical jewels nested in the vicinity of the lifts.
It is also my first opportunity to take my directly in the alpine. 'Unrivaled' comes to mind, but I won't say it. :)




Bulgaria

Warming up the brand new EEMGA's    together with Peter Jeromel from ZGVS.This time the team consists of trainees from I...
04/06/2022

Warming up the brand new EEMGA's together with Peter Jeromel from ZGVS.
This time the team consists of trainees from Ireland, Greece, Romania, France and Bulgaria.
See you again in Chamonix, guys!

BaseCamp
EDELRID
Stenata
Garmont
XCoSports Bulgaria


A lot of people, seeing the post on Instagram, asked: Why do I skip bolts?It is actually not me on the pictures, but Jor...
11/05/2022

A lot of people, seeing the post on Instagram, asked: Why do I skip bolts?

It is actually not me on the pictures, but Jordan and Ivan leading tricky 6a-ish climbs full trad on their second day of training.
They were shadowed by their sixth sense (Me) on a fix line confirming each piece of protection before proceeding.
Days equally stressful for guide and trainees, but nonetheless great and inspiring!

EDELRID
BaseCamp
Stenata
XCoSports Bulgaria

A truly intricate climbing often brings you to a truly interesting places.The rocks of Belogradchik is an unending sea o...
02/05/2022

A truly intricate climbing often brings you to a truly interesting places.
The rocks of Belogradchik is an unending sea of conglomerate towers spanning over many kilometers in western Bulgaria.
If Meteora gives back meaning and drama to the grade of '6b' , this place did the same for the long forgotten '5b' in my life.
And last but not least - completing a 5th ascent for the last 17 years of a remote tower in a company like the one we had is experience hard to forget.
Enjoy the video! :)

EDELRID
BaseCamp
Stenata
XCoSports Bulgaria
Garmont


Drone footage over a guided ascent of "The Rider" tower. A stunning rock formation among dozens in the huge conglomerate complex near Belogradchik, Bulgaria....

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The Vertical Vector

I started small nurturing the popular incentive of growth. Of being better than yesterday. Of adding something. Ultimately I failed to answer so many questions. I was 19 years old when my alter ego was born. The Alpinist.

It was the reign of strive. The strive to grow, to perform. To be bigger & better than me. The neurotic and never ending pursuit of tomorrow. Always missing the reality of me while chasing the better version of it. I failed to understand myself as most athletes do. Years later I joined the aviation as a helicopter rescue specialist. I participated in many operations and the triumph side of climbing was instantly finished by its tragic counterpart. For years and years the other side of the coin was like the other side of the Moon to me - always dark, always invisible. An abstract space full of silence and void that you hear only stories from. And this void was suddenly filled with adventures gone wrong, the silence was torn by torment. The Mountain was revealing its honest and complete picture - indifference towards us, the ones who dared enter. The Mountain is not a playground, nor a poetic notion. The Mountain is not calling you to go as it’s not calling you to leave. It’s your call. And mine too. I had the eyes to see but not the courage to change. The insane game of gain. Climbing demands a violent bravery over fears. But change demands fearlessness. No fears to face.

So this is what i learnt. To understand living is to understand dying. They are never separated just as triumph and tragedy aren’t. This is what truth stands for - integrity, entirety. Since then I feel the daring Alpinist slowly eroding away. And it’s beautiful. A melting inner space that gradually gives way to something more balanced and mature. The Mountain guide. A self aware person as he is fully responsible now. Sometimes he needs to be the Alpinist but moreover he needs to be a father, a friend. He negates risk, doesn’t provoke it. He exploits the mountain for his living, not for a social validation. And to me it’s a step further.

I joined the EEMGA-IFMGA course and after three years of hard work I became an international guide graduating at ENSA /the french national school of ski & alpinism/. Since then I slowly relearn mountaineering. What is to climb self sufficiently having the other end of the rope unequally skilled and completely dependent on you? What is to move in somebody else’s shoes? His pace, his rhythm. And ultimately, what is to perceive the mountain every time through different eyes, fears, and motives? This is my drive. Not growth, but insight. And what is yours? I’ve felt the world of mountains through the mountains of the world. And this is what I share. Join me to venture together and develop оur shifting perspectives. The Vector has a point of beginning and no end. Contrary to the modern motivational cliches, we certainly do have limits. The only limitless ocean is self exploration. This vast inner space unfolds in the mountain when there is humility and respect. This is what brings clarity to the senses. As we become silent for ourselves, than it’s quiet enough to listen. The Mountain. Victor Varoshkin