Mike and Heather’s Van Tour Spain/Portugal N2 2023 (2024)

22/09/2023

Spain 🇪🇸/ Portugal🇵🇹: The trip
Well that’s the end of the trip, just a short drive to Santander to catch the ferry back to Portsmouth and then a couple of days in the UK before our ferry back to the Isle of Man.
It’s been fabulous motorhoming through Portugal for the first time although we have previously visited before both on a flying holiday and as several cruise stops. The vast differences from the high mountains of the north, the beautiful hills of the Douro Valley, the rural plains of the Alentejo and the Algarve were evident. Inland is certainly much less populated and less prosperous. For us the Douro and North of centre both inland and coastal were definitely our favourite spots. Food and drink was surprisingly cheap too.
Northern Spain is a favourite of ours too - much greener and nicer than the ‘touristy’ southern parts. We will be back for more coastal and beach stops next time. Our trip may not be everyone’s cup of tea as we rarely use campsites and we do pack a lot in and move on a lot but we do make sure we don’t return burnt out and fit in chill times too. We can relax as much as we like at home, holidays for us are about exploring and finding favourite spots to return to and spend longer at for a more chilled break. Trip Mileage : 2412 miles
(All photos taken on iPhone 13 and unedited other than straightening)

22/09/2023

Spain 🇪🇸 part 5: A hidden gem
I know I had promised Mike he could have a rest but when I googled that only 4.5 miles away there was a hidden masterpiece I had to use my persuasive skills to encourage him to agree that it would be worth it. Well Comillas was certainly a lovely place to visit but for me one of the highlights of this whole trip was seeing the delighful and colourful El Capricho de Gaudi. Designed by Gaudi as a summer villa for a wealthy lawyer it is an uplifting example of his fascination with nature and is often referred to as the Sunflower House. Every room welcomes and follows the sun just as a sunflower does and throughout there were musical surprises like the large windows which when raised and lowered played musical tunes. I could live here forever.

21/09/2023

Spain 🇪🇸 part 3: Coastal towns
Leaving Lugo we headed for the coast for a little R&R before our return to the UK.
First stop was a free stop right by the harbour with a view of the sea and the pretty little village of Cudillero.
Next we moved on to a small campsite in Cobreces with fantastic coastal walks nearby with awesome panaromic views. We spotted so many lovely seaside towns as we drove along the coast - another great reason to return to explore Northern Spain more. Galicia is one of our favourite areas and much greener than southern Spain.

20/09/2023

Spain 🇪🇸 part 2: UNESCO a city - Lugo
On this trip I would have loved to revisit Santiago de Compestelo and A Coruna but time ran away with us and as we wanted to spend the last few days relaxing we headed for a more direct way back and chose to stop at Lugo. Also a UNESCO town known for being the only city in the world to be completely surrounded by intact Roman walls. We walked the 2.1m circuit on the top of them and had some great views. There were interesting glimpses into old city below the ground. Our overnight was in a huge free park close by.

20/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 17: City stop - Braga

Historically one of the wealthiest cities in the country, which shows in its lavish and ornate buildings Braga has become known as the religious heartland of Europe. Built by the Romans 2000 years ago it is on the Roman way to Santiago. In fact there are proported to be 47 religious buildings, one at every turn of the street corner. A lively and modern city but retaining the charm of its old town.

19/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 18: UNESCO Bom Jesus
No visit to Portugal would ever be complete a visit to the monumental Bom Jesus whose baroque stairway depicts the ascent to heaven. Wow, just wow, we thought the Sanctuary in Lamego was fab but this was breathtaking, much nicer at the top with parks and gardens. As for those stairs! Well, had enough of those and it was way too hot to climb this flight of a mere 577 steps ( so not quite as many as Lamego). Instead we enjoyed a ride up on the worlds oldest water powered furnicular. This was our last stop in Portugal and unwittingly we had saved the best til last.

19/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 16: Coastal city - Aveiro
We had a quiet nights sleep in the camper park right on the edge of the city and opposite the train station which has a beautiful facade. It was a bit like a Little Venice with brightly coloured boats ferrying tourist on the canals and under bridges adorned with ribbons - tokens of love/friendship; how romantic. A good round 6 mile walk took us to the coast and a salt bed production site. The city is known for its colourful houses - unfortunately the main square was undergoing reconstruction so we weren’t able to see them properly but what we glimpsed looked impressive. A great spot with a lovely vibe.
We have previously visited Lisbon and are saving Porto for a city break so we drove the picturesque route through and around the mountains to Braga where we parked up in a sports stadium in a medieval building overlooking the park.
Mileage today: 98 miles

18/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 15: city stop - Coimbra
We started out the next day with a short drive past a superb two tiered aqueduct just outside Tomar and then spent a thundery evening in a lovely eco friendly field camp where the owner asked only for a donation. When the weather cleared the following morning we headed for Coimbra the former capital of Portugal. Sited along a river the medieval old town was bustling with tourists. The old university Baroque facade has been given UNESCO status. The aroma from the cafes was so inviting we stopped for some lunch before driving on to our night stop in Aveiro.
Mileage today: 60 miles

18/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 14: UNESCO stop - Tomar
Our next chosen spot was back in central Portugal - Tomar, a city steeped in history and where one of the most emblematic points on the templar route lies - the Castle of the Knights Templar which became their home. Another hill top climb but so worth it. Absolutely magnificent facade (in the process of being cleaned which hindered our entry) - I marvel at the architecture from centuries ago - they just don’t make them like that anymore. We enjoyed an evening in the lively street leading to the river and stayed overnight in a free campsite.
Mileage today: 117 miles

17/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 13: Where to next! - a bit of fun!
So now we have completed the N2 we’ll be heading back up through the west of Portugal back into Spain. No plans, just a look at the map to see how far we fancy, then a Google check for must see places, a check there’s a park4night and off we go.
We made our first stop Alcacer do Sal, a lovely stop by the river and a venture into the old town. Well this is where we had our ‘locals’ encounter. It was a Friday night and we happened across 5 old men (well young at heart and prob closer to our age) on a street corner laughing and slurping something red out of plastic cups. I gestured and spoke in broken Portuguese “is it good - buena?” Well we were immediately beckoned over to join them and participate in their gustations, red wine from a 5 gallon flagon, a hunk of bread and some pieces of pig - all extremely tasty. I’m not sure they were quite ready for a ‘flirtatious’ Heather - those of you who know me know! Let’s just say it was great fun and probably one of my favourite moments so far!
Anyway we managed to escape and tried out the newer part of the town also.
Mileage today: 124 miles

16/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 12: The end of the N2 (738 kms)
We made it! All the way down the N2 to Faro where we booked into a small campsite for a couple of days before heading north again. It’s been interesting seeing the changing landscapes and the difference in cities, towns and villages. We’ve been to sparsely populated areas and some places where we’ve not seen a soul so we’ve not had a lot of engagement with the ‘locals’ yet.
The end of the road, literally, brought us to Faro a much smaller city than we envisaged but a pretty harbour and lovely old town.

16/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 11: Town stop and Roman Ruins.
Nestled in the rolling hills of sub Alentejo region we had a quiet night parked by an old windmill (still working) before strolling through the streets of Castro Verde. The Royal Basilica, as it became known, is lavishly adorned with floor to ceiling tiles and murals. The street leading up to it also is said to be one of the most decorated in Portugal; made so for the Kings visit. I’m sure we’ve seen nicer but an interesting visit.
Nearing the end of the N2 now we visited Sao Bras de Alportel and then took a quick detour to Estoi to visit some Roman ruins - the site was not open to the public however so we only got a peek through the fencing. Instead we had a quick visit to the town and the pink facade of the former palace now a luxury hotel.
Mileage today: 65 miles

15/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 10: N2 towns in the Alentejo region
Ferreira do Alentejo: We arrived in this small town the previous evening and parked up right next to the municipal pool. It was a warm and pleasant evening and the chauffeur was in need of a much awaited swim to cool down. I love that Europe’s towns have these facilities and only €1.75 a swim. I relaxed by the park and then we enjoyed some traditional food in one of only a handful of restaurants in this little town most well known for its small round chapel. Everyone is friendly and the food and drink is cheap which we’ve been pleasantly surprised at throughout Portugal so far.
2 beers, 2 tapas €4.50
Aljustrel: The weather hasn’t been as good the last few days which made it easier to climb yet another set of steps (only 200 this time) to one of the most known landmarks, the church of our lady or the castle.
The blue and white painted buildings typical of this region are evident all around.
Our journey continued to our next night stop at Castro Verde.
Mileage today: 29 miles

14/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 9: UNESCO town
We detoured a short distance off the N2 from to visit Evora - a UNESCO town with a 5000 year old history and the ruins of a Roman Temple known as the Temple of Diana. Cobbled streets add to its charm along with the many impressive architectural buildings and huge Cathedral. Attached to the cathedral is a tiny chapel which drew my interest as the bone chapel (previously visited one in Kutna Hora in Czechia ). This one has the bones of 5000 bodies exhumed by Franciscan friars. Following a hot and full day we headed back to the N2 and continued to our next overnight - a stop by the municipal pool for some R&R.
Mileage today: 43 miles

14/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 8: Alentejo region
After reaching the centre of Portugal we entered the Alentejo region of the N2, a much more undulating and rural area given over mostly to cork and olive trees and farming. Here there were long stretches between villages and we found it obviously much less populated and visited and therefore not as upkept but with its own romantic charm.
Mentemor-o- Novo dates back to the 13th century and was once inhabited by the royal family.
Loved the swing they had here - there are several along the N2 panaromc viewpoints. Following our visit I googled a site I knew we would have to make a detour to.
Great idea! Mike said - 6 miles up a dusty dirt track only to discover they had blocked the road. So disappointing as it was the oldest and largest megalithic ring formation in Europe, made up of 95 monoliths dating back to 6000 BC and proported to be 2000 years older than Stonehenge. We had to settle for a single standing stone a short distance away. There we met some Americans who had broken through the barrier to see the complex. As it was such a bumpy road and so far out in the wild we moved on to Evora for our night stop. (Can’t have everything but boy would I loved to have seen it)
Mileage today: 41 miles

11/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 7: To the centre and town stop.
Moving on we arrived at the Geodesic Centre of Portugal high in the hills. The weather wasn’t so great when we arrived and we could barely see a thing but after making a spot of lunch it improved enough to see the views. Not far away we passed the N2 half way marker 370kms.
Next town stop on the N2 was Abrantes - with its medieval castle high atop the town overlooking the Tagus river for as far as you could see. Steeped in history we had a good wander and visited the castle (another harsh climb - getting used to it now!). In the grounds was an old chapel now housing a museum displaying the old tiles and uncovered frescoes. Bronze Age finds were also on display.
Abrantes is said to be one of the most florally decorated in the country; it certainly had some colourfully painted buildings and a hospital dating back to 1667! We even saw the nurses emptying their waste in the street bins. Next we travelled on through two more small villages on the N2 before stopping by the river at Avis - a peaceful night.
Mileage today: 80 miles

09/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 6: village stops through central Portugal
After a pleasant nights sleep we explored Castro Daire and then drove our way to Viseu where we walked the very steep hill to see the Cathedral and views. Only when we were ready to do the downhill trip did we discover the furnicular was working so hopped on for a free ride back to the park and look at the black pottery unique to Portugal. Then a short drive to Santa Comba Dao - a small village for overnight stop (45 m)
The next day was mainly a driving day stopping at several small villages along the way. Quiet, sleepy villages with hardly a soul about. The main sights were often the many churches but we found some other interesting sights too. Most of them again were at the top of steep hills. Very different from Northern Portugal and the weather has changed too - lots more cloud and several thunder storms. Stopped overnight overlooking the Cabril Dam - free stop, water sport and swimming available along with 3 food/bar outlets.
Mileage today: 62 miles

07/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 5: town stop - Lamego
Not far from Peso our next stop was the town of Lamego where in 1139 Alfonso I was crowned as the first king of Portugal. The main attraction is the very impressive Santuario Nossa Senhora dos Remedios.
I’ve never even such a monumental staircase, impossible for me to capture it in full glory - all 686 steps to the summit of 605m and yes we did climb them all and after admiring the views headed back down again; exercise for the day 🥵
The Cathedral was also fabulous with its fresco ceilings, ornate shrines and a lovely outdoor courtyard. There was a fair in town and a music festival featuring Black Mamba (portugals Eurovision entrant) but we decided to give that a miss and move on to our night stop.
Mileage today: 28 miles.

05/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 4: UNESCO stop - Peso de Régua
Driving through the Douro valley is absolutely stunning and earned it Unesco status. Through the vineyards on sculpted slopes and along the river our next stop was Peso de Régua. The sun was hot but we walked along the riverbanks to view the bridges of Peso, Roman, iron and new and then ventured up to the old chapel. Now I remember why we got fitter on our last big trip, seems they love building things on the top of very steep hills. Had to stop at the top for a tasty bowl of local bean and cabbage soup and a glass of Douro wine of course. Note the Sandeman statue high on the hill - famous for making port.
Mileage today: 26 miles

04/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 3 - city stop - Vila Real
After a very peaceful sleep we set off a short distance to view Casa Mateus (as in the famous Mateus Rose wine ).
What a magnificent building. Then back into Vila Real to visit the city and sample the local speciality ‘Crista de Galo’ - elected as one of the 7 wonders of the confectionery world of Portugal; a pastry which resembles a cox comb. Well not quite to our liking as we’re more of a savoury tooth. Enjoyed the sunshine and lunch of local pork dish before heading on to start the Douro Valley section of the N2. Amazing stepped vineyards and landscapes making it feel like being in an amphitheatre. Stayed overnight in a free aire provided by the municipality - all free facilities. Even saw the ‘Blue Moon’ 🌕
Mileage today: 24 miles.

02/09/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 2: N2
At last we set out on the N2 journey around the roundabout at Chaves and headed south (along with several bikers too). The road itself is good and has km markers along the way.
We passed through Vidago but only to get a pic of the famous Vidago Palace and then headed for the first stop in our passport - Vila Pouca de Aguilar. A small town where we found most places closed for lunch except the cafes so while we waited for the town hall to open to get our passport stamped we had a wander round and a cool beer. When nothing opened at the said 2pm but rather 3pm that’s when we discovered that Portugal is the only country in mainland Europe that retains GMT! So we regained an hour 😀 of sun and fun. Another short drive brought us through the mountains to our next park for the night - a free spot overlooking the botanic park in Vila Real.
Mileage today: 42 miles

30/08/2023

Portugal 🇵🇹 part 1: town stop - Chaves
We left Leon (Spain) late afternoon and drove a scenic route through the mountains to arrive at Chaves (keys) in Portugal - a town known as a border fortification and famed for its thermal springs. Found a lovely site on the other side of the river and then walked back over the river into Chaves to explore its medieval centre. (Well I used the bridge, Mike literally crossed the river 😂). Not to be missed we sampled the local ‘Pastel de Chaves’ - a light flaky pastry filled with veal and onions - very tasty. We also picked up our N2 ‘passports’ and found the 0km marker.

The N2 is known as Portugal’s Route 66 and runs through the centre of the country from Chaves in the north to Faro in the south Algarve region for 739.26 kms. One of only 3 driving roads in the world to traverse the entire country it reveals the rural and authentic heartland of Portugal. The ‘passport’ is a fun addition to the adventure. Each of the towns/ villages has its own stamp - a great tourist idea to make sure you visit.
Mileage today: 165 miles

29/08/2023

Spain 🇪🇸 part 1 - city stop - Leon
A very smooth and pleasant crossing onboard Santona We arrived in Santander and made our way to Leon - a city on the Pilgrimage Way to Santiago de Compestelo.

We saw a few walkers with their backpacks and scallop shells ambling along the way. Parked up at a pleasant free aire by the river with all facilities opposite a shopping mall and supermarket.

Managed a 5 mile walk along the river, through the park and then into the old town with its delightful cobbled streets and stunning architecture. And the suns come out ☀️
Mileage today: 161 miles

26/08/2023

And so the trip begins. Ferry from our home IOM to Liverpool, then a drive down to Barton under Needwood for a much needed catch up with a dear friend. Super conversation and food and wonderful hospitality. Have to admit it didnt start out well. I left my phone with cash and cards in the WC at the IOM terminal (luckily returned), the van got immobilised and we couldn’t restart it. Engineer call out and 4 hours later all ok. Thought we’d never make it, then Internet MIFI stopped working but simple fix. Very stressful day but finally got onboard our ferry to Santander last evening. The say things come in 3s so hopefully that’s it 😂. 33 enforced hours of relaxing and a much needed gin
🥂👏🛳️

Mike and Heather’s Van Tour Spain/Portugal N2 2023

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