Emily Laurence Baker

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Emily Laurence Baker I am a Blue Badge guide available for private tours in London and surrounding areas. I will work with you to design your ideal day, walk or site visit.

Happy birthday, Jane Austen. On this day in 1775, one of England's greatest writers was born at a farmhouse in Steventon...
16/12/2024

Happy birthday, Jane Austen. On this day in 1775, one of England's greatest writers was born at a farmhouse in Steventon, where her father was rector at St Nicholas Church. 

Her worldwide popularity is astounding, considering she had little formal education. Some people dismiss her as writing mindless domestic dramas because her novels don't dwell on the politics of the moment. 

I think she was one of our great feminist writers and so very funny, sometimes downright scathing in her cynicism. 

I am looking forward to exploring her lasting appeal in a course at Oxford in the new year. I will share some insights here. 

England has lots of places associated with Miss Austen. I love to reconvene with her in Chawton where you can see her writing desk, personal trinkets and absorb the flavour of her life.

Happy Birthday, Jane, and thank you for many hours of enjoyment.

There is a lot of hype surrounding “Poets and Lovers”, the current Van Gogh exhibition at The National Gallery. Tickets ...
13/12/2024

There is a lot of hype surrounding “Poets and Lovers”, the current Van Gogh exhibition at The National Gallery. Tickets sold out rapidly and it’s led to a flurry of people joining the Gallery in order to gain access.

The exhibition, which displays some 61 works, including drawings and paintings, unites some rarely seen pictures with old favourites. I was delighted for the chance to view so many pieces from private collections and some on loan for the first time.

Because the show focuses on only two years of Van Gogh’s life, 1888-1889, the proliferation of works is striking. “Poets and Lovers” communicates what a careful planner the artist was, as to how finished works should be displayed and how they interact with one another.

The National Gallery has the space to show them as Van Gogh intended and it allows viewers to focus on his art rather than his psychological profile. What a treat to see two versions of Sunflowers, one the National Gallery’s own and one from the Philadelphia Museum of Art, bookend La Berceuse (The Lullaby) in a triptych which Van Gogh had always envisioned.

So special to have a fresh look at a much-discussed artist.

Poets and Lovers is until 19 January 2025.

A fun side element of being a tourist guide is enjoying hotel lobbies (and washrooms but that’s another story). And it’s...
12/12/2024

A fun side element of being a tourist guide is enjoying hotel lobbies (and washrooms but that’s another story). And it’s especially fun at Christmas. I think my award this year goes to Claridges, where the Christmas tree is designe by Paul Smith. Bright colours and fanciful workings abound.

There are 100 birdhouses, including a series of mechanical ones created by artist Nik Ramage. Birdsong trills through the lobby. It’s well worth popping in even if you aren’t greeting a guest there.

A rare adornment of fairy lights in the Pyx Chamber at Westminster Abbey. This is one of my favourite places to show vis...
09/12/2024

A rare adornment of fairy lights in the Pyx Chamber at Westminster Abbey. This is one of my favourite places to show visitors because it is one of the few sites that date back to the first Westminster Abbey, constructed by King Edward (later known as Edward the Confessor) in the 11th century.

The Pyx Chamber, once a monastic and royal treasury, housed the Crown Jewels until 1649. This low-ceiling, vaulted room also was the storage place for coins on their way to the Trial of the Pyx, the annual ceremony in which coins were tested for quality and authenticity. The only evidence today of this chapel as a storage facility are in the huge chests where important documents were kept and the splendid medieval, triangular cope chest, where vestments were once stored (no ironing necessary).

This below-ground chapel has a hushed atmosphere that I find evokes a spiritual quality like nowhere else on the grounds. The rounded Norman arches and stocky columns make a wonderful contrast to the Gothic pointed arches of the present-day church built by King Henry III in the 13th century.

Sixty years ago today, Martin Luther King addressed a congregation of some 4000 people at St Paul’s Cathedral. He urged ...
06/12/2024

Sixty years ago today, Martin Luther King addressed a congregation of some 4000 people at St Paul’s Cathedral. He urged his audience to be the best people they could be by recognizing the “Three Dimensions of a Complete Life.” By this he meant the progression from a life of self-interest, to one of leaning out towards others, and then, ultimately, to an upward reach towards God.

Perhaps even more poignant are the words King spoke at a press conference after the service.

‘I think it's a fact now, and everybody knows it, that there are growing racial problems in Britain …it is my feeling that if Britain is not eternally vigilant and if England does not in a real sense, go all out to deal with this problem now; it can mushroom and become as serious as the problem we face in some other Nations.’

Sixty years ago.

Dr King was on his way to accept the Nobel Peace Prize in Oslo in 1964 when he stopped in London. Just a little over three years later, he was assassinated.

Oh, the glorious Vanessa Bell! This fantastic artist associated with the Bloomsbury Group and her artistic haven at Char...
04/12/2024

Oh, the glorious Vanessa Bell! This fantastic artist associated with the Bloomsbury Group and her artistic haven at Charleston in East Sussex, has a splendid exhibition on at the MK Gallery in Milton Keynes. The extensive array of paintings left me thinking, “why is she not more celebrated?”

Bell often seems to be known via her associations with others – most notably her more famous sister, Virginia Woolf. And I must confess, because I am literary-oriented, my focus has always been on Virginia.

The MK Gallery exhibition provides a detailed look at Vanessa's career and personal life and most importantly, her creative explorations and development as an artist. In her early portraits, most notably one of her father, the critic Leslie Stephen, you can see the influence of her tutor, John Singer Sargent. As she gains confidence, she experiments with pointillism, collage, and a freer spirit generally.

Her central role with The Omega Workshops is given lots of space here, and this is also a rare opportunity to see the Famous Women’s Dinner Service away from Charleston. And for literary fans, you get to see some original designs for Virginia Woolf’s novels.

Vanessa Bell, at last, in the spotlight.

A World of Form and Colour is on until 23 February 2025. Hurry!

The MK Gallery is a delightful space and is only about a one-mile walk from the Milton Keynes Central Station. There is a pleasant café where you can refuel before walking back. So easy!

Colours abound at the Michael Craig-Martin exhibition currently on at the Royal Academy. I nearly missed it and I think ...
02/12/2024

Colours abound at the Michael Craig-Martin exhibition currently on at the Royal Academy. I nearly missed it and I think it is great fun.

What I loved most was the Irish-born artist's use of colour. The exhibition highlights it with the walls of each room painted in vibrant hues of pinks, blues and purples.

I also enjoyed his modern takes on old classics; recognize them?

The exhibition closes on 10 December.

Always a treat to get up high above the city. Yesterday I raced up the 528 steps to the Golden Gallery with a delightful...
26/11/2024

Always a treat to get up high above the city. Yesterday I raced up the 528 steps to the Golden Gallery with a delightful American woman who was keen to see London from all angles. It was a cloudy day but my guest took the positive view that the clouds enhanced her photos.

And indeed they did – a great way to experience the moody skies of late. There are days when guiding is just pure delight and yesterday was one of them.

The Bloomsbury Group comes alive at the Courtauld Gallery.I’m preparing a Bloomsbury Group tour at the moment and was de...
22/11/2024

The Bloomsbury Group comes alive at the Courtauld Gallery.

I’m preparing a Bloomsbury Group tour at the moment and was delighted to visit this small room  decorated in Bloombsury style on the top floor of the Courtauld to inspire my presentation.

The walls are painted in vivid but muted colours which Bloomsbury artists celebrated and there are a surprising number of Bloomsbury treasures, particularly those that belonged to Roger Fry, the artist and critic credited with coining the term “post Impressionism.”

If you’re not able to get to Charleston, the East Sussex residence where Bloomsbury Group artists and writers gathered during the First World War, this is the next best thing. Artists Vanessa and Clive Bell, and Duncan Grant, decorated the Charleston rooms with lavish illustrations of animals and decorative paintings, making the entire house like a cosy, liveable gallery.

The exhibition at the Courtauld is a fantastic introduction to Charleston. I was especially delighted to be welcomed by the self-portrait of Roger Fry and to see some of his earlier works before he ventured away from classical style painting.

How to excite a Jane Austen fan: display a collection of first editions of all six of Jane Austen’s novels.  She may hav...
20/11/2024

How to excite a Jane Austen fan: display a collection of first editions of all six of Jane Austen’s novels.  She may have handled some of these – of course not Northanger Abbey and Persuasion which were published posthumously but how about that stunning (and extremely rare) copy of Sense and Sensibility with the publisher’s original binding? Or the gorgeous version of Emma, owned by her brother Frank?

Jane Austen’s House in Chawton, Hampshire, is where Jane lived during the last years of her life and museum curators are anticipating next year’s 250th anniversary celebrations of this author who has captured hearts around the world. The display of first editions is part of a new exhibition, Jane Austen and the Art of Writing, which showcases items that may have inspired and influenced her writing.

The house is especially lovely in Autumn, as it’s easy to imagine Jane snuggled inside, hard at work.

       

You’d think you were looking at St Paul’s Cathedral, right? Well, in a sense you are. This is the Great Model, an enormo...
18/11/2024

You’d think you were looking at St Paul’s Cathedral, right? Well, in a sense you are. This is the Great Model, an enormous representation of the church that Sir Christopher Wren intended to build after the Great Fire of London in 1666 and the means of showing King Charles II his intentions.

The Great Model, built in 1673 at a 1:25 scale, today commands a kind of secret chamber tucked into the roof of St Paul’s Cathedral. Sir Christopher Wren built it at a cost of £600 (the cost of a decent London house at the time). But after all that expense and effort, this version of St Paul’s was rejected by the Church powers because the dome was deemed too radical (really meaning Catholic and foreign).

Wren went on to design an accepted “Warrant” design with a more traditional layout and spire. But he wrote in options in the final plan that allowed him the option to make “variations.” That meant he achieved the splendid dome that is a symbol of London today.

You can visit the Trophy Room on a St Paul’s Triforium tour. They usually take place weekly but sell out about two months ahead.

What a treat to be visiting the parish church of Steventon, where Jane Austen’s father, George, was rector from 1765-180...
11/11/2024

What a treat to be visiting the parish church of Steventon, where Jane Austen’s father, George, was rector from 1765-1801.

Jane was born in Steventon and the household revolved around this quintessentially English rural church. She was baptised here in 1776 and worshipped here for 25 years. The large yew tree out front is where George placed the key to the church.

Every time I come here, I feel Jane's presence in a way I don’t elsewhere. She lived in Steventon longer than anywhere else in England, and this church is much as it would have been in her day.

       

It’s the Lord Mayor’s Show! A day of celebration to honour the City of London’s new and 696th Lord Mayor, Alastair King....
09/11/2024

It’s the Lord Mayor’s Show! A day of celebration to honour the City of London’s new and 696th Lord Mayor, Alastair King.

This annual parade has been taking place since 1215 when King John granted the City the right to have its own mayor. The festivities took place on the River Thames until 1856. Prior to then, grand water barges would make their way upriver for the mayor to pay homage to the Sovereign.

That’s where today’s parade “floats” get their name.

But it’s always been a big day on the City calendar and the festivities have always drawn crowds. Sometimes watching your fellow onlookers is as much fun as the parade itself as Ned Ward recorded in 1706, “Whilst my friend and I were thus staring at the Spectators, much more than the Show, the Pageants were advanc’d within our view, upon which such a Tide of Mob over flow’d the Place we stood…For my own part…I was so closely Imprisoned between the Bums and Bellies of the Multitude, that I was almost squeez’d as flat as a Napkin in a Press.”

Such tradition!

There was a lot of bowing, walking backwards and hats going on and off in London’s Guildhall today. The City of London’s...
08/11/2024

There was a lot of bowing, walking backwards and hats going on and off in London’s Guildhall today.

The City of London’s 696th Lord Mayor, Alastair King, was sworn in with carefully choreographed rituals performed with a great many meaningful and valuable symbols of the office.

All in silence! That resounding quiet was only interrupted when the Lord Mayor swore his oath, otherwise, no one spoke or made a sound for about 30 minutes. It was tremendously moving to witness the exchange of power with no person’s voice and yet a palpable respect for each other, the ceremony, and the office itself.

We were not allowed to take photos but I can show you some of the insignia of office. The sceptre, sword and Tudor purse were very grand indeed but my heart went for the silver inkwell modelled on Temple Bar, which the Lord Mayor used to sign his promise to safeguard all those precious items.

I am so honoured to witness this ceremony that has been taking place for centuries.

I’m delighted to be one of many City of London guides offering a free walk after the Lord Mayor’s Show next Saturday, 9 ...
04/11/2024

I’m delighted to be one of many City of London guides offering a free walk after the Lord Mayor’s Show next Saturday, 9 November.

We’ll see great sights that illustrate the Square Mile’s incredible history – it’s all still living right here but you have to work a bit harder amidst the new glass and steel horizon.  But that’s all part of it. The City is such a diverse, fascinating place.

I’m having so much fun preparing a Bloomsbury literary tour for publishing executives. We’re going to bring alive the sp...
25/10/2024

I’m having so much fun preparing a Bloomsbury literary tour for publishing executives. We’re going to bring alive the spirits of Charles Dickens, Virginia Woolf, Oscar Wilde, TS Eliot, Mary Shelley and so many others! What a treat! I can’t wait!

      

Oscar Wilde has a new memorial in Dovehouse Green, Chelsea, an open space that is near his former home in Tite Street. I...
23/10/2024

Oscar Wilde has a new memorial in Dovehouse Green, Chelsea, an open space that is near his former home in Tite Street. It makes me sad. The enormous depiction of Oscar Wilde’s head is on its side, slashed with vertical cuts.

As much as we need to remember the horrors of Wilde’s trial and imprisonment for “gross indecency,”  shouldn’t we be celebrating the man who wrote some of his most popular works from his home here and who was a recognizable figure on Chelsea streets?

I can’t help but contrast this statue with the figure of Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square Park in Dublin, where he is depicted as cheerful and relaxed. And yet even that representation borders on a caricature that makes light of all that he was.

I am still seeking a dignified sculpture of one of England’s great literary figures.

The Chelsea sculpture is as much about Oscar as it is about the sculptor, Eduardo Luigi Paoluzzi, who died in 2005 and kept a studio in nearby Dovehouse Street. He’s probably best known for his bronze sculpture of Isaac Newton outside the British Library.

Tell me what you think!

   

I was delighted to receive my City of London Green Badge yesterday inside the glorious Mansion House in the heart of the...
22/10/2024

I was delighted to receive my City of London Green Badge yesterday inside the glorious Mansion House in the heart of the City. A special treat to be inside this grand building and to meet the Lady Mayoress, Elisabeth Mainelli.

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