Wheelie Burn Outs on the Nullabor

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Wheelie Burn Outs on the Nullabor The adventures of an independent solo wheelchair traveler driving across the Nullabor (Aust). l travel alone, just my dogs and l in my converted Kia Carnival.

I am an independent wheelie, somewhere drifting between 50ish/60ish. This page is not about me though; it is about the experience of traveling the Nullabor Plain, as an independent wheelchair user.

13/08/2023

ABOUT ME:
I am an independent wheelie, somewhere drifting between 50ish/60ish. l travel alone, just my dogs and l in my converted Kia Carnival. (Thanks Tom Eley !). This page is not about me though; it is about the experience of 3 days of traveling the Nullabor Plain, as an independent wheelchair user.

13/08/2023

I may be the least gifted author you will ever meet but l have long since moved on from worrying about others perceptions. Just agree to disagree and move on; life's way too short and in the greater scheme of love, life and the universe it wont really matter in the long term. More than techno challenged, l prefer to be in the real world, in the moment and just doing and being in that moment. Humour is my preferred medium with one of my top ten sayings being " You can only change a situation by the way you react to it". Thus this is how l took on the Nullabor, knowing challenges awaited but the reality was vastly different. I survived it, chalk it up to another one of life's adventures and now share this as my personal experience. Hope you enjoy.

Key take outs from this 3 day adventure. This blah oops blog is a snippet to highlight what l found driving across the N...
13/08/2023

Key take outs from this 3 day adventure. This blah oops blog is a snippet to highlight what l found driving across the Nullabor as a usually independent wheelchair user.

I didn't intend to play tourist along the way: I just wanted to get from A to B - all 3,000 give or take kilometres of it. I was also more on the hesitant and cautious side than willing to push things too far; this was my first "road trip" after being 24/7 in a chair for the past 4 years.

• Book WELL in advance and plan your trip carefully. Rooms will be VERY expensive for very little. Manage expectations. One of my pet peeves is people who think things can be measured against city/ own / home standards: it ain't going to happen. At roadhouses; for example, do not expect nice concreted forecourts, get used to 4 wheel driving with potholes that would do many state governments proud if they could have a size bragging contest.

• Carry a small portable ramp; fold up bathroom chair (ie: toilet chairs are so multi use, even on the side of the road!) ; these will prove to be essential.

• I also took, as always, my trusty self-inflating (high quality) trampers mat to save my back from the rocks ooops beds l slept on at night and had a portable bed stick. I made sure all were secured down in the back of my car, l reckon l could have sold a LOT of occy/stretch straps along the way!

• I ALWAYS travel in an Eagle Portable Power chair. The number of times this nippy, skinny little chair saved my bacon, well it should be put up for a Noble Prize. That chair has gone places, encountered obstacles and heritage listed places (often with a little creativity and finessing) that my usual manual chair would have been cowering at. Downside? It also though LOVES to SINK and get bogged n the sands of SA/WA, so be careful because sometimes it is VERY deceptive.

• DON’T try the trip between November and March if you can avoid it; its just too hot. Equally DO NOT drive between sunset and sunup and maybe half hour after/before. There can be a LOT of big bouncy things, slow moving furry large rocks and other creatures on the road and they will win EVERYTIME. It simply isn’t worth your life, writing off your car and having a trip ruined.

• Without going OTT and TMI lets just say adult pull ups and puppy training pads can make great emergency toilets (along with a bathroom chair); so can keeping wet wipes and gloves along with doggy/small garbage bags come in handy. I guess too l was fortunate, despite the lack of many disabled toilets, overall what l found had a very good hygiene standard, with many even having a number to report problems.

• WA Regulations STRICTLY prohibit ANY dog/pet (other than registered service animal) staying at ANY on site caravan/cabin at ANY caravan park. You will find an odd exception BUT have yet to find any that combine wheelchair and pet access. Yes, if you have your own vehicle/van/tent often no problem but generally WA is very unfriendly towards 4 legged family and finding the right combination of both wheelchair access and pet friendly was like a finding a decent priced meal; rarer than chickens teeth. (Sorry that was fowl).

• On my journey l did not try to stop everywhere but in the deeper parts of the Nullabor l generally called in for a break; even if l couldn’t access the shop. Even some fuel pumps l simply gave up on because they had physical barriers. So l always kept fuel full when l could fill up.

• I ALWAYS said in emails and phone calls “wheelchair access including in shower/toilet” but l might have well said a steak sandwich with the lot.

• One common problem, even in so called “accessible rooms” was the shower. They where just a standard rose above your head. So two choices, have a refreshing wonderful ice cold shower until you can twiddle two taps (flick mixers haven’t been invented yet in some parts of this great land of ours) and get enough of the right mix and then when you finish hope like hell your hands and fingers can turn both off with the precision of an astronaut during a rocket launch! Easier for option 2; no shower.

* Thumbs up to the truckers travelling this great road. Most where really good. Yes overtaking with just a spinner k**b to hold the wheel gets a bit spooky at times but many truckers l encountered gave you the signal when it was safe to overtake.

• Between Adelaide & Port Augusta, there is a little town called Port Germain – VERY worth the stop in just for scenery and heritage feel and yes good disabled toilets near the old tramway.

• In Port Augusta you must support, if you need to stop, Cross Roads Eco Motel. ( https://ecomotel.com.au/ ) ALL rooms are described as “universal access” and they even have some pet friendly.

• ALWAYS carry basic supplies – the vast majority of roadhouses are inaccessible. This is common sense for anyone but for a wheelie with access issues ahead; make doubly certain; including plenty of water.

• IF you are lucky enough to find even a basic accessible public toilet – use it, it can literally be hours and hundreds of kilometres to the next one and there is NO standard version of “accessible”.

• There may have been places l missed; l am sure there might have been but l just wanted to drive on through before my body resembled a twisted up dehydrated version of its former self that would have made Tutankhamen proud to be a mummy !

• At Kimba (before Ceduna), l had the joy of NO public disabled toilets and had to lower my dignity by asking a staff member to stop any travellers going into the toilets so l could turn the women’s into a sort of accessible stop (The one for us blokes well let’s say l have seen better urinals in some old heritage pubs about to be torn down! and well my balance isn’t healthy when l try to stand on one leg). I did get told later that the Kimba pub is a good place to stop and even stay.

Headng West: first night towards the Nullabor. Ceduna: - THE only place to stay is the Foreshore Hotel ( https://www.ced...
13/08/2023

Headng West: first night towards the Nullabor.

Ceduna: -

THE only place to stay is the Foreshore Hotel
( https://www.cedunahotel.com.au/. The staff are fantastic; and l mean truly fantastic and the food is pretty good and the sunset to the west over the ocean is pretty special. Be wary most of the other motels in town are garbage. One promised me a wheelchair access room that was just a basic standard room and rudely stated “we have had other people in wheelchairs stay there” when l went for my money back. The other place l tried had never heard of what a wheelchair access room was.

Penong: - Because we struck the lotto at Ceduna with the entire area blacked out on the Sunday morning for maintenance, l fueled up here. Found an accessible servo and toilets, great bonus!

This is now where it gets REALLY entertaining.

There is NO accessible toilets again until Nullabor – That is 4 hours! Maybe that’s why you see so many grey nomads with self-contained caravans ?

Forget Yalata. Just drive on by. This place has signs it has accessible toilets BUT they weren’t finished AND to my joy, yeh not, l found out the blue metal gravel that covers EVERYTHING is like quick sand to a chair. Very lovely having to wait for someone to come and help heave you out and get you back to your car: ESPECIALLY when the call of nature is fast turning into the sound reminiscent of a howling hurricane bearing down upon you. But ty to the generous traveler who helped get me unbogged.

Nullabor – Yes disabled toilet but was a bit of a hunt, definitely of the art deco era (nothing like variety to brighten your day!). No access to the shop but l managed to get enough attention of one of the staff working outside who did help me out.

Next overnight (2) stop: Eucla. There is some spectacular scenery along the way and far more than the one or two places ...
13/08/2023

Next overnight (2) stop: Eucla.

There is some spectacular scenery along the way and far more than the one or two places people thnk they have to stop to take it all in. There are NO toilets between Nullabor and Eucla. There is NO mobile phone reception UNLESS you are solely with Telstra (not Telstra wholesale/on sellers, Optus. Vodafone etc). Now Eucla is a bit of shall we say interesting.

The first room they gave me, yes reassured was disabled, and lo and behold, get in the door and there is LITERALLY a 6 inch step UP into the bathroom. Yep that works. But the staff where helpful and found me room 30. Ok the “ramp” was shall we say, had seen better days? Yeh a very thick old piece of chipboard that every time l went in and out, l swear it started to resembled the floor of a carpenter’s workshop.

This place too was the first and only time in my life l paid $12 for a plate of hot chips and they weren’t the frozen kind. I also got to celebrate a 70th birthday with 2 lovely fellow travellers who where on the road to Bunbury; beaming with joy and pride that their young grand daughter was singing in some very special opera performance. I wish them well and sorry l can’t remember your name.

Eucla was pet friendly.

The Telstra pay phone well that’s was so much fun; yes all Telstra pay phones are free BUT the path up to it; well there was a lot of artistic licence used by its creator and driving in was one story; reversing out as the only option, l nearly started to wish that the SES where available to haul me out if only l could have gotten back to the phone!

From Eucla l had planned to maybe stay at Balladonia for the night. But settled on Norseman. I rang around the town to find the usual story “no wheelchair access” or “booked out”. Then l spoke twice to one of the staff at the BP, who also happen to run the motel behind. Twice l spoke to them, which l reinforced wheelchair access room, asked if hand rails in the bathroom and in the enthusiastic response was always yes yes yes of course. Did this make me skeptical? Nah why would it?

Heading off from Eucla for the roughly 7 hour drive to Norseman proved to be some of the most entertaining parts of the trip; little did l know the nightmare that awaited me in Norseman.

Madura became my first main stop. Yep you guessed it, inaccessible shop, no disabled public toilets. Oh hang on, helpful staff at the station directed me to the motel. She also called ahead to let them know l needed the key to the disabled toilet. Get to the motel. Wonderful; 3 very large steps. So l am cruising up and down tapping on the window until finally a very helpful person appeared with a key in their hand.

Nearly needing to take a map and compass, plus a dentist to reinsert my teeth rattled out on the way l found the disabled toilet. Problem 1: Thankfully l was in my power chair and it can be a bit of a mountain goat when l need it to be. Problem 2: You know that gravel at Yalata ? It was back ! Yep at the base of the ramp. The disabled toilet was a good quality, also a shower in there if l really wanted one. But that ramp and exiting ? Now l knew what it felt like to be a runaway truck hitting a speed arrester bed coming down a mountain side with no brakes. All good though; just repeat the return journey and finally get my teeth back in and the key handed back and away l went.

I skipped past Cocklebiddy, drive in but kept going, it was very inaccessible from what l could see and the road condition was such l didn’t want to have to find the dentist again to reinsert my teeth.

Next stop was Caiguna. What can l say 5***** service and help and yes accessible shop AND inside toilets. You need a code to get to them but couldn’t fault the staff, service or facilities.

After that next stop was my proposed overnighter at Balladonia and glad l didn’t. Firstly, disabled toilets locked; ok, lets go hunt the key. Now this site is just a tad over run and busy and where is the key ? In the shop. Guess what? 6 inch step to get into the shop to get the key. It was fast getting to onion season (yeh yeh yeh we all know what onions do when you try to peel them, anyway you get the drift) . So how the heck tell me , is a wheelie going to play basketball and bounce into that shop let alone get access to that key ? Of course, lower your dignity and ask some poor stranger if they would be kind enough to retrieve it for you and also find another one to return it. On the road again, even IF my trusty little ramp could have gotten me into a motel room, would have been very hungry by morning with no access to the shop.

Yes did provide feedback to the Manager at Balladonia but never heard a thing. Guess they really don’t care, they aren’t paid enough to do so.

What was to be the 3rd and final night across the Nullabor:Norseman Well l arrived with tempered hopes of a room at leas...
13/08/2023

What was to be the 3rd and final night across the Nullabor:

Norseman

Well l arrived with tempered hopes of a room at least for the night that maybe just maybe l could access a toilet. Even the BP servo/ roadhouse, the shiny newish looking 20th century BP
( https://map.bp.com/en-AU/AU/gas-station/norseman/bp-norseman/6235 ) doesn’t have a disabled toilet. Lo and behold the room was as accessible as Pluto. What was reinforced was that as is now more common than not the mining companies/ mining related activity has taken virtually everything in the form of accommodation. The few public rooms available, well they don’t keep the alleged disabled one available. So someone who is not disabled has it permanently booked.

Knowing Norseman was fully booked out l knew this was going to be interesting (to be polite). Rang around everywhere and no last-minute cancellations; only a room on a 1st floor with no lift access offered. Found the towns so called public toilets to find that they are locked at 5.30pm to cut down on vandalism! I will take a big shout out and thanks to Norseman Police. I went and picked their brains and even with all the calls they made nothing could be found. Long story short. Ended up in the caravan park,
( www.acclaimparks.com.au/locations/norseman/gateway-caravan-park/ ) sleeping in the cold steel tray of my car (it was 2c that night) and the caravan park owner had been generous enough to give me the key to the disabled toilet. That was a very memorable night; as a wheelie having no choice but to sleep in my car. Even ringing ahead and being prepared so late in the day, when so tired, to drive on to even Coolgardie; not even a wheelchair access room existed in that town. So the back of the car it was.

It was a long night trust me and physically l REALLY suffered (the consequence of which, after 2 weeks have not fully healed). I had managed to make something that resembled a bed and did layer lots of clothes and even poor dog had to donate a few of his blankets BUT there was NO way would l have driven on.

Fatigue kills; so does wildlife on the roads.

I left fairly early the next morning and just headed for Perth. Along the way, as expected, services and facilities slowly improved and all l can say is, this was definitely a one-way trip; one l would never repeat or even want to think about doing again. Yes l can understand the challenges of change and infrastructure so far from major population centres etc. Many places probably have the attitude take it or leave it as there is no competition for starters and people really have no choice but they do not comprehend the extra they could make by having that extra accessibility badge and l mean real accessibility. The only disability is attitude.

Thanks for reading.

Cheers Leigh.

13/08/2023

*This page is NOT intended to be a travel guide. It is based purely on personal experience as found in mid 2023 and may have changed. Photos on this site are generically found on the web. I prefer to allow readers to use their own imaginations based on those writings and have their own vicarious experience based on their own imagination. Please do your own research. No liability accepted for use or otherwise based on the information contained here in. Where possible references to pictures and other material used are referenced; if you choose to use any content off this page please show the same respect and courtesy*

ENJOY !

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