19/08/2017
Quick guide to Aste Nagusia and the Txosnas (text by Micky Hl)
(Aste Nagusia in Euskera the Basque language, Semana Grande in Spanish, translation: The Big Week)
Every year on the first Saturday after the 15th of August is when Aste Nagusia kicks off in the city of Bilbao in the Basque Country. It consists of 9 days of festivities mainly based around El Arenal (along the river) and the Casco Viejo (old part) but also in the areas around the centre there are a multitude of events going on every single day and night, ranging from traditional basque sports events like wood-chopping and Pelota (basque hand ball) to choirs singing and going from bar to bar drinking wine to DJ's and groups playing on street corners or in bars and clubs.
The model of Aste Nagusia that we can see now was started in 1978 after the dark years of dictatorship and Franco's death.The August celebrations in Bilbao had existed before but were not considered for all the people of Bilbao and a little bit elitist, before it was mainly theatre, bullfighting, fireworks and the “barracas” (amusement park). In 1978 the fiestas started to be organized by a fiesta commission which was made up of various kompartsak (social community groups) and these groups wanted the fiestas of Bilbao to be for ALL the people of Bilbao. These kompartsak groups all have their own names and each has its individual cause and philosophy ranging from supporting the Basque language and culture, defending sexual expression, environmentalists, anti-militarists, women's rights, International solidarity groups, or just representing the neighbourhood where they're from. At the moment there are 29 konpartsak.
When a visitor comes to Aste Nagusia, the first thing they notice are the amazing and wildly decorated txosnas, these are the huge structures that you find along the river in El Arenal, from the Bilbao town hall down to and around the Arriaga theatre. Each txosna represents one of the kompartsak (social groups) and to look at is just a huge overly decorated bar (a lot sell food too..the famous bokata or french stick sandwich) but they are the headquarters of that group through the fiestas and organise different activities from kayaking, sports competitions, communal lunches, cooking competitions (this being the Basque Country) concerts and more throughout the 9 days. There are also competitions amongst the different kompartsak and as well a prize for the best decorated txosna and the worst! (the prize for this being a rubber fly!)
The people who work in the txosnas work shifts and for free, serving the people who go there. The txosnas are also all decorated and erected by the members of each group and friends. The prices are extremely reasonable for this day and age, all the proceeds from the 9 days go to obviously paying for all the drink and food and the logistics and hire of equipment or materials used and towards events that each group organises throughout the year and next year's Aste Nagusia preparations of course! The opening times of the txosnas sometimes vary slightly each year but usually open around 9/10 in the late evening till 7 or 8 in the morning. To walk across the bridge towards the Arriaga theatre on a friday or saturday night and look down upon the thousands of people and hear the noise and music is really impressive.
You might notice and it is quite hard not to, a giant papier-machè woman with her arms constantly in the air, this is Marijaia and she is the symbol of the fiestas of Bilbao and present in and around the txosnas from the beginning of the celebrations until the last night when she is publicly taken down the river and burnt to mark the end of Aste Nagusia. Also be warned that at 11 o´clock every night the lights of the txosnas are dimmed or turned off for the huge firework display - watch out for the crowds. Also when you first buy a kaña (little less than a pint) of beer or kalimotxo (wine and coke, typically basque) in the txosnas you probably will get a hard re-usable plastic cup which is the tradition..keep it as you are supposed use it all night, even all week! Enjoy the madness and Gora Aste Nagusia! Gora Marijaia! (by the way the Basque -tx is pronounced like -ch!) and also I might add, SUPPORT THE TXOSNAS OF THE PEOPLE! KEEP THE PRIVATE COMPANIES/SPONSORS OUT!
