Catamaran Zarafet

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Catamaran Zarafet Zarafet is a customized Prout 45 catamaran and we think she is the best ocean-going cruising multihull.

In 2011, a monument was dedicated in Istanbul, Turkey, in honor of the first Turkish amateur circumnavigators Sadun and ...
17/05/2021

In 2011, a monument was dedicated in Istanbul, Turkey, in honor of the first Turkish amateur circumnavigators Sadun and Oda Boro. The monument includes bronze profile medallions of all those who followed in their wake, including us. We were unable to attend the official unveiling ceremony, but were honored to receive a copy of our medallion from Sadun Boro himself when we were in Istanbul in February of 2012. You can read more about Sadun Boro here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sadun_Boro.

The Turkish translation of the second half of our article about the ocean cruising catamaran appeared in the February 20...
28/04/2021

The Turkish translation of the second half of our article about the ocean cruising catamaran appeared in the February 2010 edition of Naviga magazine.

Part 2 – OCEAN CRUISING CATAMARANS

In the first part of this article, we looked at important aspects of the construction, design and rig of an ocean-going catamaran and some of the key factors that contribute to its safety at sea and at anchor. In this article, we will add our thoughts about how we used our catamaran as a boat and a home, as well as some of the equipment we carried on our circumnavigation.

Catamarans have so much more space than monohulls of similar length that they seem more like floating apartments than boats. Generally, the sleeping cabins, showers and heads are located in the hulls and the salon and galley are on the bridgedeck, just a step away from the outdoor entertaining area in the cockpit. There are many different possible configurations, so we would just like to offer some thoughts from our own personal experience.

Sleeping cabins should be comfortable at sea as well as at anchor, with good ventilation as well as good sound insulation. There is less bounce in the hulls than on the bridgedeck when on passage so cabins in the hulls make a lot of sense. Because catamarans don’t heel, there is no need for pilot berths or lee cloths, but it does help to have a berth or berths in various locations and different orientations, offering different possibilities depending on the conditions. The bunk in our cabin was oriented fore and aft which worked well and was easy for getting in and out without disturbing one another.

On long ocean passages, we followed a four hour on/four hour off watch system with one of us monitoring the boat while the other slept or rested. Out in the middle of the ocean in steady conditions, there isn’t much work to be done sailing the boat, so it is good to have a comfortable place for the on watch crew to be able to stretch out, both in the cockpit as well as on the bridgedeck. In our opinion, oval settees have no place on an ocean-going boat. They may look nicer and they may be good for entertaining, but at sea, you don’t always want to sit up straight. There are times when you would just like to lie down comfortably. After all, you don’t have oval sofas in your house. One thing we insisted on when our boat was being built was a square/cornered settee arrangement. We even had one bench built extra wide so that the two of us could lie down side by side to watch TV or listen to music or the radio. It was possible to brace ourselves in this corner when conditions got a bit rough and still be able to see all the navigation instruments, wind and depth indicators, radar, chart, etc.

Our full-size chart table was in the bridgedeck salon, just inside the door to the cockpit, and was the location of all of our key electronics, radios, as well as repeaters of the equipment at the helm position (wind, depth, speed, etc.). Radar and electronic chart plotter (laptop) were visible from the cockpit but safe from the weather and salt spray. The electric switch panel and battery monitor/regulator were at easy reach. Inmarsat-C, laptop, printer, TV, DVD player, stereo, even intruder alarms, were all clustered at this location which was like the interior command center of the boat. At anchor, even while watching TV or a DVD, we could keep one eye on the depth or wind speed/direction. At the helm were the autopilot controls, speed log, masthead wind indicator, deck level wind indicator, forward-looking echo sounder and a separate depth instrument with an aft mounted transducer (for those times when backing into a berth). We had a backup for all our key electronics, just in case one failed while at sea or in some remote corner of the world.

Although most of the steering is done by the autopilot when on long passages, there are times when the helm cannot be left unattended. When you have to spend hours at the wheel, you want that position to be as protected and comfortable as possible. Some catamarans, especially those designed for the charter market, have positioned the helm station or stations outside the cockpit, either one on each stern or in a working cockpit above the main entertaining cockpit. While these may work well on a charter boat with a paid skipper who is away from the social areas, they are not suitable for long-distance, short-handed, ocean-going cruising. On cold, wet, windy nights, we would not have liked steering from a position at the sterns, exposed to the conditions, far from the chart table, outside the easy reach of the galley, too close to the edge of the deck. Much safer was our helm position at the forward end of the cockpit, shielded by a bimini overhead and a window in front, close to all sheet and halyard controls.


Even if you head out to sea to get away from it all, communications are very important when you are in the middle of nowhere. VHF and SSB are essential for staying in touch with other cruisers and authorities ashore as well as other ships. There are SSB nets in most parts of the world where cruisers gather at specified times and frequencies to exchange weather and other important information as well as keep in touch with friends and gossip. Email has become another major way to share information with friends at sea as well as keeping in touch with those back home and more and more, it is becoming the only way to communicate with authorities on land. For example, Australia requires arriving boats to inform them via email 48 hours in advance of their arrival and keep in mind that if you are arriving from Vanuatu or Fiji, you would be at sea for about a week. Whereas in the past, most weather information was disseminated via voice broadcast on SSB radio or via weather fax over the radio, more and more cruisers are getting better and more timely weather information via email or direct from the internet. So, some way to communicate via email has become a part of the cruising lifestyle. There are many ways to do this and technology is constantly changing, so we won’t offer advice on this subject. Our needs were met by having VHF and SSB radios as well as Inmarsat-C (a text-only, always on, satellite-based communication system that has its own GPS and an excellent, international alarm system if you are in trouble anywhere around the world) and Iridium satellite telephone, plus a cell phone for coastal cruising.

The galley is a very important part of any boat, even more so on an ocean-cruising vessel visiting remote corners of the world, because most of your meals will be cooked aboard – there may not be any possibility to eat ashore in many of the secluded places you visit. A catamaran has plenty of space to stow food stocks – we always began each season with enough dry or packaged stores to last at least six months and a comprehensive list of where everything was located so that we could keep track of our provisions. Many catamarans have the galley situated on the bridgedeck, which is convenient to the salon dining area and cockpit. We were much happier having our galley down in the hull where the motion was steadier when on passage and still was open to the salon seating.

Refrigeration adds much to the joys of life at sea, making it possible to carry stores of perishable foods and have cold drinks and freeze all that fresh fish you’ll catch. We recommend 12-volt electric refrigeration instead of engine-driven, for its ease of use and because it seems to make more sense to stow engine-generated power in the batteries, where it can be used by other equipment, than in the holding plate of the freezer. In our experience, the most reliable, efficient boat refrigeration systems are from Frigoboat, based on a Danfoss compressor and easy to install, precharged components that can be replaced by the owner without the need of a mechanic. We can also recommend a keel-cooled system, which has the advantage of using seawater to cool the condenser but doesn’t need a separate water pump – the refrigerant pipe is simply led outside the hull and back in again. With a second, air-cooled condenser installed inside the boat, this system works well when the boat is in the water as well as dried out on a beach or hauled out in a boatyard.

Water is an important consideration when cruising to areas where there is either a shortage of water on shore or no way to easily access it. Many of the islands we visited were dependent on rainwater or brackish water from shallow wells and had only a limited supply. Although most of our cruising was done in the tropical latitudes, the best season for sailing was always the dry season, so occasional rain showers could not be relied upon to fill the water tanks. One of the best pieces of equipment we had installed on our boat was our reverse osmosis water-maker, something we consider essential for long-term, liveaboard ocean cruising. Because this piece of equipment is so important and used so frequently, the location of the installation is also important. We have seen systems located in the engine room, accessed from the deck or sterns of the boat and operated in a cramped, hot, noisy place. We made sure our water-maker was installed so that it was accessible from inside the boat (it is located in its own cabin forward of the engine, under our bed) and easy to operate, even on passage in rough conditions. We could divert the product water to either of the main water storage tanks, one in each keel, or to a separate 30-liter stainless steel tank for drinking water. All product water going into this tank also went through a carbon filter and was treated by UV light, resulting in pure, sweet-tasting water. We extended the life of the UV light and carbon filter by using them only to treat our drinking water, not the usage water stowed in our main tanks. To extend the life of the membranes, we always flushed the system with product water after use, so it is important to have the system installed in a way that this is possible.

It is also important to be able to access and clean the inside of your water storage tanks. Even if you have a water-maker, when you are in a marina with a convenient hose or in a place with a lot of rain, the tanks will be filled with water not of your own making and therefore of questionable quality. Filtering this water before filling and treating the tanks with chlorine is not enough, they still need occasional cleaning. On many boats this is just not possible and the owners have to trust the filters they may install on their galley water taps. Luckily, our tanks had three watertight access hatches each so that we could always control their condition and swab out each of the baffled areas when necessary. With their location in the keels and the watertight access hatches, our water tanks also served as crash chambers in case we were to hit something as well as providing some low down ballast. We were able to monitor the level in our water tanks as well as in our fuel tanks with a simple device called the Tank Tender.

Most catamarans have two engines, one in each hull. Not only does this ensure easy maneuverability in tight marinas it means that there is always one good engine in case something happens to the other or to one of the propellers. We saw no need to carry a third motor in the form of a generator to charge batteries or run electrical equipment. Solar panels, however, are an absolute must, providing maintenance-free, silent, daytime charging and catamarans have plenty of space to put them. At anchor, our solar panels met all of our electrical needs, even for weeks. We only used our wind generator on passage when the sails blocked the sun from shining on the panels.

To store electricity, we highly recommend gel cell batteries. Unlike lead acid batteries, they are very easy to maintain and hold their charge even when turned off for months. Our first house bank lasted 12 years and we were so pleased with them that we replaced them with the exact same batteries (3 x 220 amp hour Exide). We can also recommend the Link 2000R battery monitor and regulator (used with a Heart – now Xantrex - 220 volt inverter charger) to keep tabs on the battery state and charge process. We also had a Prosine 1800 watt inverter for 110 volt appliances.

A cruising catamaran spends much of its time at anchor and so the dinghy will be used extensively to reach shore or get to beautiful snorkeling spots by the reef. For durability, we would strongly recommend the Avon RIB – which has a hard bottom and a much better quality hypalon fabric. Nothing survives the tropical sun like hypalon as we have seen several cruiser friends suffer with seams parting in their PVC dinghies. Ideally, the dinghy should be lifted out of the water when not in use to prevent bottom fouling and to deter theft. Davits are the easiest way to do this and ideally suited to the high, wide stern platform of a catamaran. Arches on the sterns of catamarans are very common and there is much to recommend them, although some are very big and look ugly. They are useful for mounting all sorts of antenna and other equipment, even solar panels.

We hope that what we have written is useful for you. The world is very big and very beautiful, especially the Pacific. Even if you are not able to immediately go out cruising, just the dream of doing so is very nice. After all, you must first have the dream before you can realize it. Before we began cruising, we dreamed for 11.5 years, researching, planning, trying various types of catamarans while bareboat chartering, visiting 5 different catamaran builders. In the end, we had a dream of a 14 year circumnavigation – and we hope you will, too.

After the completion of our circumnavigation and return to Turkey, we wrote the following article with our thoughts and ...
28/04/2021

After the completion of our circumnavigation and return to Turkey, we wrote the following article with our thoughts and opinions about the ocean cruising catamaran. A Turkish translation of the article appeared in the January 2010 edition of Naviga magazine.

OCEAN CRUISING CATAMARANS

When we first began dreaming of cruising the oceans of the world in 1984, there was a major debate in the yachting press concerning the viability of catamarans as ocean cruisers. Today there is little doubt that catamarans are just as suitable as mono-hulls and even mono-hull owners admit that catamarans have many advantages that cannot be beat: more room, more speed, no heeling at sea, no rolling at anchor, and plenty of space inside and on deck to entertain guests. Not all catamarans, however, are designed for ocean cruising. Just as with mono-hulls, some are designed for racing, some are designed for charter, some are designed for coastal cruising, some are designed for day sailing, etc. To be considered a safe, live-aboard ocean-crossing catamaran, the following features should be taken into consideration:

Hull Construction and Design:

Many catamarans are put together out of several pieces. A really safe catamaran has a monocoque design: one single hull and one single deck. The fewer the joints, the less the possibility of cracks or leaks developing.

One of the advantages of catamarans is their speed comparative to mono-hulls of similar length. Some builders save weight by using a cored construction. The danger of this is that any water seeping in through openings for fittings or screw and bolts holes that were not properly sealed can cause water to accumulate in the core between the laminate layers. Not only does this increase the risk of osmosis, if left for a period of time it can cause the core to rot due to seawater reacting with the resin. It is especially important that the hulls below the waterline are of solid fiberglass to prevent any weakness in the integrity of the hull. This increases the weight of the catamaran and as a result reduces the speed a little bit as well; however, it results in a much more durable and impact-resistant ocean-going vessel. Furthermore, this additional strength in the hull allows a higher load-carrying capability.

Some catamarans have daggerboards to improve upwind performance and speed. If the boat is to be used for living aboard long term, it is important to keep in mind that these systems can also cause trouble, jams, leaks, etc. Catamarans with mini-keels have many advantages. Not only do they help to reduce leeway when under sail, they really come to the fore when hauling out or drying out on a beach as they provide a very strong place for the boat to rest. Our catamaran also has the advantage of little wing shoes on the keels, which not only protect the keels but provide an extra grip on the water to keep the boat from slipping sideways down wave fronts in beam seas.

Without the weight of lead keels, a properly designed and well-built cruising catamaran has little danger of sinking, even if holed or badly damaged and taking in water. Still, the higher the boat sits in the water, the less the wetted surface which results in greater speed. Since anyone living long term on a cruising boat carries a great amount of gear, supplies, spare parts, fuel, food and water, there is a danger of overloading the boat so a lot of that speed advantage is reduced. A more lightly constructed catamaran with narrow hulls and straight bows is faster when kept light, but for living aboard, wider, rounded hulls provide not only more interior space but greater buoyancy and greater load-carrying capacity. Having an overhanging bow provides more reserve buoyancy and also reduces pitching. It also reduces the risk of pitch-poling, or tripping over the bow as it buries in a wave when sailing fast downwind and ending up upside down. Most catamarans that capsize have actually pitch-poled and it is the faster, straight bowed cats that are at greater risk of doing so. A catamaran with overhanging bows like the Prout 45 tends to ride up and down big waves when going downwind as if on an elevator – the boat remains fairly level and the bows never get buried.

Going to windward in a catamaran requires different considerations. For example, it is important to have good bridgedeck clearance to be able to ride over the waves instead of having them slam against the underside of the bridgedeck. The forward motion of the boat creates its own bow wave, or bow waves, since a cat has two bows, and these waves meet between the hulls, contributing to the likelihood of water reaching the underside of the bridgedeck. Therefore, smooth curves are better that flat bridgedecks and especially beware of any squared, boxy extrusions from the hull to create more interior living space: any wave splashing against the flat surfaces will create a lot of noise – even at anchor.

The stability of the catamaran is due to its two hulls, connected by a bridgedeck. The wider the bridgedeck, the greater is the stability of the hull, provided there is proportionately higher bridgedeck clearance. This higher bridgedeck clearance must be balanced with the proper length of the hulls otherwise the boat becomes top-heavy and there is a greater risk of pitch-poling.

Having two hulls creates other problems. Each hull meets the same wave at slightly different times. This results in a catamaran having a different motion to a mono-hull, but it also causes a twisting effect, putting stress on the bridgedeck. A very wide bridgedeck may result in more twisting effect than one of more moderate width. Once again, a boat of monocoque construction will be much stronger than one built of separate pieces, but it is wise to check how else the designer has planned for this twisting effect. An ocean-going catamaran should have torsional bulkheads in the forward sections running diagonally from the bow area back towards the center in addition to the crossbeam between the bows, which also takes the strain of the forestay.

The mast of a catamaran is stepped on the roof of the bridgedeck accommodation and this, too, creates much strain. A very wide bridgedeck may begin to sag under this strain. Our catamaran was designed with a very strong solution: the weight of the mast is supported by an alloy A-frame under the deck, which distributes the load to the hulls.

A very beamy catamaran will also face difficulties in finding travellifts and haulout slips wide enough to lift it out of the water, limiting the boatyard choices for out of the water maintenance.

A key factor for the safety of any boat is to have watertight crash chambers in the extremes of the hull. It doesn’t take a collision with another boat to cause major damage – there are a lot of hard objects floating around at sea just below water level that are invisible no matter how good a watch you keep as well as docks, rocks, reefs, beacons, whales and any number of other dangers. We always felt a higher degree of safety from these dangers (and never carried a liferaft during our 14 year circumnavigation) because both of our bows had multiple watertight chambers as well as our sterns, and our water tanks were located in the mini-keels providing another watertight chamber at the bottom.

Rig:

Most catamarans, having been built with the bigger charter market in mind, have a B & R (Bergstrom & Ridder) rig. While this may have some advantages in terms of less windage and weight aloft and allow for big, roachy mainsails and small genoas, in our early days of hunting for the best catamaran for ourselves, we very quickly realized a big negative of a big, roachy main – it is very difficult for one man to raise by himself, much less the female member of the crew keeping watch by herself at night while her mate sleeps. Live-aboard long-term cruising also means short-handed sailing, so it is wise to keep the rig as easy to handle as possible, especially when there are sudden squalls or catabatic winds necessitating urgent sail adjustments or reefing. We prefer a bigger headsail on a furler with a smaller main, which provides a much easier and smoother sail on most angles of the wind. Although this might result in slightly slower speed to windward, long-term cruisers plan their passages to avoid windward sailing anyway unless their masochists or have no other choice. Don’t forget, we’re not talking about a windward sail of a few hours while day-sailing, we’re talking about days and days of an ocean passage, which is no fun under any circumstances.

B & R rigs for catamarans are usually of thicker rods so that they can support the mast at only three points. Having seen a ¾ inch 316 stainless steel bolt sheer across its diameter due to an invisible internal defect, we do not think it is safe to trust whether a mast stays up or down on one of these three rigging points. The next rigger and supplies can be more than a 1,000 miles away on an ocean passage. It is much safer to have a mast supported by two rigging points forward, two on each side and two in the back with diamonds between the spreaders for extra stiffness. This allows the chance to reduce sail and take supporting precautions if one of the wires snaps.

Anchoring:

A typical cruising vessel will spend less than 5% of the time on passage, the most of the time at beautiful anchorages and a small amount of time in marinas and harbors for provisioning and maintenance. Therefore, it is very important to have a good anchoring system. A chain led straight to its locker without crossing the foredeck eliminates mud and dirt on deck. Also, for a catamaran, it is absolutely necessary to have a bridle. Without a bridle, a catamaran dances a lot more than a mono-hull at anchor, but with a bridle, a whole lot less. Also, the bridle provides an excellent snubber for the chain and allows some chain and weight to be let out behind the bridle’s chain hook, thereby reducing the length of chain needed to be let out in crowded anchorages. It’s also important to have a bridle of adjustable length so that if the wind increases, more chain can be let out without having to remove the bridle.

Throughout our years of cruising, we didn't write any articles for publications in Turkey. After our arrival, however, t...
21/04/2021

Throughout our years of cruising, we didn't write any articles for publications in Turkey. After our arrival, however, there was a bit of a splash in the Turkish newspapers announcing our arrival and reporting on what we had done.

Our very last update about our cruising life was made in 2009, when we announced:Zarafet’s Circumnavigation Complete!Aft...
17/04/2021

Our very last update about our cruising life was made in 2009, when we announced:

Zarafet’s Circumnavigation Complete!

After visiting 84 countries and hundreds of islands and cruising over 60,700 nautical miles in 14 years, we arrived back in Mehmet’s hometown of Ayvalik, Turkey, on July 4 to a big welcome from his family. It had been an uneventful passage from Egypt with light winds and calm seas. When we left here in the summer of 1996, only the breakwater was complete. Now there is a busy and full marina. We got Zarafet settled in Cunda harbor for a well-deserved rest and are living in Mehmet’s family home.

For the first time, our floating home has come back to where our future land home will be built and we’re torn between the two. It is hard to let go of the cruising lifestyle, yet we are very excited about our property and eager to get started on its development. First step was to buy a car and we got a station wagon, which seems most suitable for our future life on the “farm” with our trees and landscaping and is ideal for offloading our accumulation of gear, souvenirs and shell collection from Zarafet. Things are a bit confusing because some of our things are still on Zarafet, some at his mother’s house and some in our condo in Ankara.
With sadness in our hearts, we’ll be putting Zarafet on the market shortly. Hopefully she’ll find another good owner to take her back out to sea. Being a real ocean cruiser, she deserves to be out there rather than tied up in a marina. She is fully equipped and even has spares for every single pump on board and went through a thorough refinishing in Thailand last year.

When we began our circumnavigation in 1995, we first sailed to Turkey and went as far east as Trabzon at the eastsern end of the Black Sea coast. I guess we actually finished our circumnavigation when we once again crossed that longitude somewhere in Eritrea, but we didn’t actually cross our own outbound track until we reached the Turkish coast. We are thankful that we have sailed the world and returned home safely and grateful for the many wonderful experiences we have had and the wonderful people we have met along the way. Our life adventure continues, but we’re starting a new chapter.

This was the update we sent out about our Travels in Egypt in 2009:We were reminded of the movie Murder on the Nile as w...
05/04/2021

This was the update we sent out about our Travels in Egypt in 2009:

We were reminded of the movie Murder on the Nile as we waited at Giza Train Station in Cairo, observing all the people coming and going: business men in suits and ties, other men in the traditional “galabiya” robe and sandals, women in full veil or young girls in jeans and tight tops with color-coordinated headscarves, even a Coptic priest in flowing black robe. As the departure time approached for our overnight, first class tourist train to Aswan, security around the station increased and tourists of all nationalities joined the mix, most of them looking hot and a bit bewildered, wondering if they were in the right place, while porters struggled with all the luggage. Then the train pulled in, and all were soon aboard, for an uneventful 12-hour trip to Aswan, with no Agathe Christie style murders to disturb our sleep.

In Aswan we boarded the luxurious, brand new cruise ship, the Chateau Lafayette, on its maiden voyage, and it became our home for the next four days. With all excursions arranged for us, complete with personal guide and air-conditioned van, all we had to do was sit back and relax, enjoy the beautiful setting of the city on the Nile, and take in the sights. We drove across the original Aswan Dam and the newer High Dam and learned that the hydroelectric plants here and at other spots on the Nile provide so much power that Egypt is able to export electricity. Then we took a motor launch to Philae Temple, situated on an island in Lake Nasser. This is just one of the many ancient sites which were moved to higher ground before they were submerged by the rising waters of the dammed lake. Later we had a sail on the Nile in one of the traditional, lateen-rigged felucca boats which glide gracefully and noiselessly from bank to bank, a peaceful form of transport if not for all the other traffic on the river.

Life on board the Chateau Lafayette was very nice. With only 55 guests (besides us there was an Italian tour group) and 85 staff, we were well taken care of. Chef Mohammed prepared separate vegetarian dishes for us (in addition to the over-abundant buffet at every meal) as well as delicious Egyptian desserts (in addition to the dessert table with 8-12 different options). As the ship steamed down the Nile, we would finally push ourselves away from the lunch table to wander up to the sundeck and take in the view: barren hills on either side enclosing the fertile, green fields on both banks. It was a scene and way of life that hadn’t changed much for thousands and thousands of years. As we pondered the importance this river has had in the course of history and development of civilization, it was nice to be able to slip into the cool waters of the pool and whirlpool bath and just relax. What a way to celebrate our soon to be completed circumnavigation as well as our upcoming 30th wedding anniversary!

Our ship docked at Kom Ombo, right beneath the Temple of Haroeris and Sobek. We were most impressed by the carved reliefs, which showed the ancient Egyptian calendar and another, which showed surgical instruments and medical practices of those days. We also stopped at Edfu and rode a “caleche” (horse drawn carriage) to the Temple of Horus, where the walls of one room were carved with the recipes for blending perfumes. Once through the locks at Esna, the ship carried on to Luxor and the end of our cruise, but not the end of our touring. We spent the following day visiting tombs in the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens, Hatshepsut’s Temple, the Colossi of Memnon, Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple. Luxor, known in ancient times as Weset or Thebes, was the capital of the New Kingdom pharaohs, and it was the site of so many temples and tombs that it boggles the mind. After spending a long and very hot morning crawling in and out of tombs and admiring the columns and carvings of the temples, it was nice to retreat to the cool comfort of the museum in the afternoon where we saw two mummies and many beautiful statues.

We went to Cairo on the day before President Obama’s visit and everywhere we went, places were being cleaned up or fresh paint applied and everyone was excited about his message. Our first stop was at the pyramids of Giza, which are just outside the city. I suppose we had done our tours in reverse chronological order, because the pyramids date back to around 2566 BC, the ruins around Luxor to around 1550 to 1070 BC, and the temples along the upper Nile between there and Aswan to the reign of the Ptolemies from around 332 to 30 BC. Such a span of time makes one feel quite insignificant and yet the carvings, paintings and writings of these ancient monuments contain so much detail about the past that one still feels a connection to those times and people. In that sense, they have served their purpose. The pyramids and sphinx up close are not as perfect as their romantic image from a distance, but still we spent hours wandering around the site, entering tombs and ancient passageways until the heat got too much. The interior of the pyramids was even more stifling as one clambered up and down steep, narrow passageways to the burial chamber deep inside. There wasn’t much to see inside, but the experience was worth it. It was a refreshing change to go inside the air-conditioned solar barque museum to see a restored and rebuilt 43-meter wooden boat, which had been discovered buried in a pit beside the Great Pyramid.

Continuing on to the old, Islamic part of Cairo, we were impressed by the many beautiful mosques and buildings. We found Khan el-Khalili bazaar a rather calm and subdued place. Maybe that’s because we were there in the heat of the early afternoon when most sane people would be inside having a siesta. Here, too, preparations were being made for President Obama’s visit and we were shown T-shirts and plaques proclaiming Obama the new Tutankhamon of the World. The newer parts of Cairo are also quite nice, better organized than we expected and full of parks and green areas. On the outskirts, we saw many new developments and modern shopping malls.

We decided to save the Egyptian Antiquities Museum for another day and returned to our current temporary home in the small city of Ismailiya. Laid out European style for the employees of the Suez Canal Company, it has many parks, tree-lined boulevards and even a canal as well as sandy beaches on the shores of Lake Timsah, and maybe for this reason it has become a favored place for weddings and honeymoons. The people are friendly and helpful and whenever we go out, we hear shouts of “welcome.” We plan to stay a couple more weeks before completing our transit of the Suez Canal and emerging into the Mediterranean.

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