Lanzarote eco Insider

13/03/2024

Because folks liked my latest pigeon comic so much, here's another pigeon piece!

I made this a couple years ago for a sadly now defunct publication called Pipe Wrench. I hope this piece helps spread more pigeon love.

16/12/2022

Not to be missed!

03/10/2022

I just wanted to share some very good pictures by the talented Dave Rounce. El Jable, September 30th.

20/09/2022

Sometimes I still get questions about Ramona, the trekking dog at La Corona volcano. She lives a happy and prosperous life in Belgium, well taken care off, as you can see 😍🐕!!!

30/07/2022

I would like to share with you some very nice pictures from El Jable by Erwin van Eekhout. We are still seeing Cream Coloured Coursers with chicks. Many young Houbara Bustards as well...despite the lack of rain, it seems that it was a good year.

16/06/2022

The delayed rain season caused delayed nesting. It is important to be aware that there are still many flightless young chicks around...

A picture of a young Stone Curlew from the El Jable desert by Stephen Boyd.

28/05/2022

Do you want to come with us to Iceland?

There are two places left for an epic, amazing 18 day adventure to circle the whole island with a small and charismatic international group (June 23rd till July 10th):

Iceland hosts some of Europe’s greatest wilderness areas, which are home to active volcanoes, sheer granite mountains, glaciers and ice-caps, thundering waterfalls, steaming lava fields, plunging fjords, boiling mud pools and spouting geysers. Many naturalists describe it as one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World. In fact, 20 million years after Iceland was formed from an eruption beneath the ocean, it remains one of the most volcanically active spots on Earth.

Few areas in the world offer such exhilarating natural beauty and awe-inspiring scenery as Iceland and it’s only as far from the UK as Southern Spain! The diversity of the mountain landscape with its volcanoes and lava fields, vast black deserts and then just over a ridge strongly contrasting lush oases, waterfalls, massive rivers and canyons and of course hot springs and fumeroles are sights rarely encountered together anywhere else on earth. This is the stunning terrain that our 2 week long Adventure will explore.

Most striking of all is the sheer vastness of space with far reaching visibility from the crystal clear northern air and the geological diversity of the multi-coloured volcanic rocks. The light is simply perfect for landscape photography.

The Adventure Tour starts as soon as we leave Reykjavik. The route is a mix of on and off-road 4WD touring plus short treks to amazing natural features which are otherwise inaccessible, plus possibly some optional on and off-road cycling with hybrids. The cycle rides and treks may occasionally be challenging but never technically difficult with only a few steep climbs and the occasional scramble and possible walking across snow fields. Both cycling and trekking will be well within the capabilities of any reasonably fit person who has undertaken some regular cycling or trekking.

Outline Itinerary

Maps and Photos
see https://ridewithgps.com/routes/34717973 for the map and photos. The route shown is designed to visit most of the natural highlights in Iceland and is tackled from Reykjavik in a clockwise direction. The total driving distance is around 3000 km (1875 miles) of which just under a third is off road. Despite this daunting distance, I have calculated the average driving time at just under 4 hours per day which leaves most of each long daylight day to hiking, cycling, hot spring bathing and visits to the many spectacular sights and more. The photos provide views of less than half those you will see en route. The photos of the 2010 eruption are unfortunately not mine. The chances of seeing an eruption whilst in Iceland is probably around 10%.

The Golden Circle and West Coast
On leaving Keflavik/Reykjavik after the first night, as an introduction, we visit the Reykanes Peninsular to see the results of the very recent eruption and the surrounding lunar type landscape and wild coastline. This is followed by a visit to one of the Golden Circle highlights of Thingvellir ( the crack in the earth where the tectonic plates of Europe/Africa and America meet). We reach the West coast at the pretty town of Borganes and continue on to the Snaefellsjokull Peninsular
where the famous ice-capped volcano at the tip is featured in the book, Journey to the Centre of the Earth by Jules Verne.

The Remote NW Fjords
We will transfer by Ferry from Stykkisholmur via the island of Flatey, to arrive at the heavily serrated fjords of the NW. these provide spectacular driving along the coast with mountains of over 3000ft plunging straight into the sea. There will be several opportunities to hike in this area where we stay for 3 nights. We conclude this section with a whale watching trip in one of the fjords.

The Magical North
We now head NE to the most northerly fishing community of Siglufjordur which was featured in the Icelandic Noir Thriller -Trapped. Driving down the coastline of the stupendous Eyjafjordur fjord, we reach Akureyri, capital of Northern Iceland. From here we head inland past the iconic Godafoss waterfall (the waterfall of the Gods) and soon arrive at Lake Myvatn.

Lake Myvatn is the Jewel of the North which boasts innumerable geological, particularly volcanic, features. This is the area where we major on both cycling and hiking activities. We will visit Krafla, the volcano giving rise to the 1980-4 eruptions, a walk through the 60 year old Leirhnjokur lava field, Namaskard, a substantial thermal area with the volcano Namafjall behind, then onto Hverfell, a perfect example of a ‘dust’ volcano which we climb and walk around the top of the rim, a ‘lava’ garden called Dimmubogir and of course Lake Myvatn itself which we will cycle round. There is also Northern Iceland’s answer to the Blue Lagoon which you can bathe in the warm/hot mineral waters with views more impressive than its sister feature near Reykjavik. Myvatn is also home to the largest population and variety of ducks in the world and is also renowned for its midges on which the ducks feast during the summer. Luckily, they are most prevalent in late July and August.

Whilst at our Myvatn base, we will drive to Husavik, the main town of this region in a very attractive coastal setting. Continuing around the wild northern Thornes Peninsular we eventually arriving at the stunning geological feature of Asberygi and the Jokulsa Valley (Iceland’s Grand Canyon) with the highlight, Dettifoss, the highest and most voluminous waterfall in Europe.

The Interior
Now, after 10 days of wonder, we should be ready for our venture into the deep interior – to the huge volcanic lake over the volcano Askja which last erupted just 60 years ago and has erupted 10 times in the last 250 years. Yes, it’s due again! The location is a true desert, with the least rainfall in all Iceland due to the proximity of the Vatnajokull Icecap which is larger in area than Greater London and the largest in the world after Greenland and Antarctica. Vatnajokull has a major influence on the local weather.

The area around Askja has no habitation and was used to simulate the moon during the Apollo Space Programme. To allow us to explore this area thoroughly, we will need to stay in mountain huts for one night. Excursions may be made to see the infamous Gaesavatn route which crosses the centre of Iceland (which I have never seen) plus Kverkfjol, a giant ice-cave from which emanates hot running water from giant hot springs under the Vatnajokull.

The East Coast
Moving on we drive across remote country and glacial rivers to the Eastern Coast through the major town of Egilsstadir and then to the coast at Seydisfjordur for a night’s stay. Continuing South along this serrated coast we pass through the beautiful and unexpected Oxi Valley.

After following the SE coast we reach the town of Hofn which until 1971 was cut off from Reykjavik and SW Iceland, there being no road across the Vatnajokull’s outwash plain. Flying had been the only way to reach SE Iceland. Just beyond Hofn is Jokulsarlon, now one of Iceland’s top tourist spots, attracting about half a million visitors each year. It is a blue iceberg lake set against the Vatnajokull National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Jokulsarlon has featured in 2 Bond Movies, Die another Day and View to a Kill plus at least 2 other adventure movies.

The South
Moving on again, we reach Skaftafell National Park which features enormous glacial outflows from Vatnajokull which we will be able to see close up on a hiking tour. Here also is the highest mountain in Iceland ( 6920 ft) under the Öræfajökull, an ice-covered volcano.

Beyond Skaftafell is the outwash plain backed by the ice-cap and glaciers which gives the scene a primaeval feel. This is what the last Ice Age would have looked like in the UK, 10,000 years ago. The road which spans this outwash plain is an engineering feat. We shall cross it, so long as it has not been washed away again as it was by the volcanic eruption of 1996. Then, blocks of ice the size of houses crashed down towards the sea obliterating the 30 km road bridge. Typical of the resilience of Icelanders, the bridge was rebuilt re-establishing contact with Hofn in less than a year. In the UK we can’t even repair Hammersmith Bridge in 4 years!

The Southern Highlands
We leave the Icelandic coast on Route 1 for the last time soon after Kirkjubaejarklauster and head into the Highlands. Highlights en route include Eldgja, a rift valley similar but wilder than Thingvellir. There used to be a natural rock arch over the river Ofaerufoss which has collapsed since I was there in 1966!
We reach Landmannalaugar, the central point in this strange landscape from which we will do some adventurous hiking in the Rhyolite Mountains. There are also natural hot springs suitable for bathing whatever the weather.
The spectacular off-road drive following closely to the famous Laugarvegur Trail which has been listed as one of the top 10 hiking routes in the world. Subject to weather conditions, we may be able to reach the Porsmork Valley which marks the end of the Laugarvegur Trail where the Eyjafallajokull icecap rising majestically beyond. The volcano under this icecap is the infamous one which grounded most European flights in 2010.

Finale
Our journey back to Reykjavik for our flight home will be with views of Iceland’s most famous volcano Hekla which is responsible for much of the landscape in this area.

24/05/2022

More birds by Geoff Cowley

24/05/2022

Something wonderful from the desert by Geoff Cowley, a photographer and a competent spare wheel exchanger.

29/03/2022

I just have to share these marvelous pictures by John Buttriss from last week.
There are so many chicks everywhere! It is very important not to leave the paths, to keep the dogs on leash at all times and to keep the cats indoors.

27/02/2022

Every year there is a party in the plains of Lanzarote. Jaap from Holland captured it beautifully.
During this time of year, the birds are especially vulnerable to disturbances.

Birding trip at Lanzarote Spain...Second clip of an amazing day with Carmen from Eco-Insider Lanzarote Guided Tours...It was my lucky day, because i was able...

26/02/2022

Today, two very interesting finds by Ian Teague today in Haría: a Redwing and Yellow-browed Warbler (?)

10/02/2022

I spy, with my little eye....
Who can tell me the name of the bird?
Photo by Yatin Shrivastava.

23/01/2022

Beautiful video of a Cream-coloured Courser by Jaap from Holland for his Youtube channel Bird Jamboree.
https://youtu.be/Cnnimewf9Vc

Birding at the Canary Islands.Had an amazing birding trip with Carmen from Eco-insider, Lanzarote Guided Tours..I was blown away by how many species of birds...

19/01/2022

⬇️ This is exactly what I was going for 💗!!!

Hi Carmen,
I just wanted to let you know that the excursion last week was the perfect start to my holiday here. In the following week or so, it made me see life where I would otherwise just have seen lava and sand, and it gave me a good feel for the ecological value and vulnerability of the island.
And I was also wondering – having been quite cold for a couple of days 😊 – if the rain we had in the last few days was significant at all? Would it do anything for the flowering of the plants in El Jable, and the breeding of my favourite birds…?
Best regards, Pieter

BTW, the beautiful picture of houbara bustard (just to accompany the story) is by the very talented Loïc Epelboin from French Guayana.

04/01/2022

Some fantastic pictures by Sterk Van Dongen of our friends in El Jable.
Happy 2022 🌻🐦🦎🐜😁!

10/12/2021

The ocean is calling and we have to go...
Next Sunday 12th, the wind will calm down so we decided to organize another boat trip to the islands Alegranza, Montaña Clara and Graciosa.
The guides will be Olaya, a geologist/volcanologist for the geodiversity and me (Carmen) for the biodiversity.
This tour is not a property of Eco Insider anymore, but of the nonprofit conservation project Desert Watch www.desertwatch.org and that is why the cost is only 35 € per person (28 € for Canary Island residents). There are still few places left. If you are interested, send an email to [email protected] I will give you instructions about how to book.

18/11/2021

I wanted to share some beautiful pictures by Marco Megna from yesterday´s trip to the islands of Chinijo. Regarding biodiversity, the highlight was an osprey spotting and we also enjoyed watching some Sandwich Terns hunting. The colonies of Cory Shearwaters and Eleonara´s Falcons are gone, but the geodiversity was stunning and the ocean was kind...

08/11/2021

Amazing pictures of Houbara Bustard and Cream Coloured Courser by Joe Jones. Thank you Joe for joining us and sharing the photos!

26/10/2021

Juanjo Ramos es naturalista, comunicador ambiental y fotógrafo de naturaleza y viajes, así como gerente de Birding Canarias, una empresa especializada en ecoturismo y conservación de la biodiversidad en la Macaronesia y el norte de África. Su último trabajo audiovisual, ‘Soñando con alas’ ...

21/10/2021

Visit us at our post at Ocean Lava!
Tomorrow afternoon and the whole Saturday you can meet us at our stall in Plaza de las Naciones in Puerto del Carmen to learn about Lanzarote nature, ongoing conservation projects, volunteer opportunities and much more...🦅🦎🦗🦋🌱🌻

11/10/2021

https://english.elpais.com/science-tech/2021-10-06/the-underwater-hotspot-feeding-la-palmas-volcano-will-create-new-islands.html

The magma flow that shaped Spain’s Canaries archipelago 20 million years ago continues to add landmass, while Fuerteventura and Lanzarote are destined to sink under the effects of erosion

25/09/2021

This is too cool not to share:
Western Yellow Wagtails migrating from Great Britain to Spain. Video taken at 6:30 in the morning 120 km north of the coast of Santander, origin unknown.

18/06/2021

...and the volcanic bomb is still there...

13/06/2021

This is what fascinates me about the aridity of Lanzarote:
As it rains very seldom and there is practically no underground water, plants and animals had to adapt to live most of the year without any water. Strategies they use to survive are fascinating.
Take, for example, the Ice Plant. It is a yearly plant that flowers, creates seeds and dies in the summer. It locks its seeds into pods to prevent them being eaten by insects, lizards, birds... When rain comes, which might be many months later, the already dead and dry plant has a mechanism to quickly open the pods and release the seeds, so they have a chance to germinate. This behavior is another proof of the incredible intelligence of plants.
The dry landscape of Lanzarote has so many interesting stories to tell...
(foto by our dear Anja Oglecka)

11/06/2021

When instead of Birdwatching you end up goat watching 😆!

13/02/2021

There are still no tourists in Lanzarote. Protocols have to be respected... Our consolation prize is this spectacular spring we are having this year. The rain keeps coming and nature responds with enthusiasm. There are carpets of flowers everywhere!
So what to do with this Covid situation? We have to do as nature does. We need to adapt. That is why in the next weeks, I will be posting about all the new experiences that we are preparing for you when you come back.
But in the meantime, I will be supplying fresh pictures and news from our magical island...

03/02/2021

There is a big party going on these days on the plains of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura 🕺🏾🕺🏾🕺🏾💗!!! Video by Dani from Artenara

28/01/2021

WILDLIFE UNDER THREAT!
Those of you who went with us in the past to watch birds in Barranco de Temisa (Chafariz), might remember the abundance of song birds we always found there. Occasionally we would spot also a Turtle Dove, a Barn Owl, a Long Eared Owl and in late summer even Eleonora Falcons... The barranco is an old erosion gorge created by torrential rains during inter-glacial periods. When people arrived to the island, they figured out all type of clever ways to get rich harvests from the fertile land, using dry stone walls and terracing. During the last 40 years of touristic boom, people stopped farming and nature took over the valley, creating an oasis for wildlife. Old stone walls are full of nests, wild growing fruit trees are food and home for many indigenous and migrating birds. Since the whole valley is completely away from the main touristic routes, peace and tranquility was guaranteed...
Until now 😡!
The island´s administration decided to do a massive intervention in the gorge channel, supposedly to prevent floods (what floods??!!). Exactly during nesting season! It will cost 174 000 € of public money. According to official version they want to "laminate" the channel of the barranco with cement and secure it with masonry walls...
There is a general outcry and protests from wildlife conservation organisations, but the administration just doesn´t seem to care...

It makes me wonder about the competence and honesty of people who rule us, but what is even more concerning is that we, the ordinary people just accept it. We complain a little bit, maybe share some outraged posts and then we shift our attention elsewhere...
I suspect that the administration figured us out regarding this. What would happen if we don´t let the issue to go to sleep? Is there a way to change the paradigm?