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Matt Kubik is an architect and artist who has been leading tours to Rome since 1992.

Fun, informative tours exploring the historical and cultural stories behind the art and architecture of Rome with concierge guides who ensure that your experience is personal and memorable. Pat Ashton is an urban sociologist, professional mediator, and award-winning university professor who has been co-leading tours of Rome with Matt since 2011.

22/12/2024

Roma Domenica: A Sunday Blog about All Things Roman. Today: The Palazzo Corsini is a splendid example of Baroque architecture located in the Trastevere district of Rome on the Via Lungara, near the Tiber River and the Villa Farnesina. This opulent palace was originally built in the mid-17th century for the Riario family, a powerful family in Papal politics. It was later acquired by Cardinal Neri Maria Corsini in 1736. One of the highlights of this venue is the Corsini Gallery (Galleria Corsini), which houses an exceptional collection of Renaissance and Baroque art, including works by Caravaggio, Rubens, and Guido Reni. This gallery is part of the National Gallery of Ancient Art (Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica).

Since 1883 the Palazzo Corsini has been the headquarters of the Accademia Nazionale dei Lincei or the National Academy of the Lynxes. This is one of the oldest and most prestigious scientific and cultural institutions in the world. Founded in 1603 by Federico Cesi, the academy was named after the lynx, symbolizing sharp vision and intellectual curiosity. Its aim has always been to promote the study and advancement of science, literature, and the arts. Its members have included the pioneering astronomer Galileo Galilei and Giambattista della Porta, who was one of the 7 historical architects of the modern St. Peter's Basilica (he finished Michelangelo's dome) as well as the designer of a number of Renaissance fountains and monuments in Rome. Modern members of the Academy include Enrico Fermi, a pioneer in nuclear physics and quantum physics; Gugliemo Marconi, inventor of the radio and a Nobel Laureate in Physics; Rita Levi-Montalcini, A Nobel Prize-winning neurobiologist, Benedetto Croce, a prominent philosopher and historian in the first half of the 20th century, and Umberto Eco, the renowned contemporary novelist and philosopher. The Academy has also conferred Honorary Memberships on renowned scientists such as Charles Darwin, Marie Curie, and Albert Einstein.

The library of the Academy has many first- and early-edition works of scientists and philosophers, including the complete works of the 12th century philosopher and theologian Thomas Aquinas.

19/12/2024

La Foto del Giorno. Two friends share conversation, water and wine while waiting for the antipasto....and here it is - a selection of salami, prosciutto, cheeses and olives. Scintillating and delicious!

16/12/2024

Le Foto del Giorno. The on-point and supremely fashionable Italian sense of style extends to its automobiles. The brands and the designs are legendary: Lamborghini, Ferrari, Alfa Romeo. That's not to say, however, that Italians don't appreciate an elegant foreign design. Here's an imported British Rolls Royce we encountered on the street one day (note the right-hand drive). And one day in our neighborhood we even encountered a rally of classic Volkswagen Beetle owners.

15/12/2024

Roma Domenica: A Sunday Blog about All Things Roman. Today: The Roman Forum. This public space in the valley between the Palatine Hill and the Capitoline Hill was the beating heart of Rome, from its founding right through the Republic and the Empire - i.e., for more than a millennium. After the fall of Rome, this area was neglected. With yearly flooding from the Tiber and erosion of the nearby hills, it quickly became silted up. Over the centuries, layers of dirt and rubbish accumulated - over 20 feet deep - such that in the Middle Ages the area was known as the Campo Vaccino - the Field of Cows because of the fact that the area was mainly used for grazing cattle. Only the slightly visible tops of some of the arches and columns gave any hint of what once was here.

But while it was a pastoral scene for locals, it captivated the imagination of Renaissance humanists and artists, who saw it as a connection to the grandeur of classical civilization. Figures like Michelangelo and Raphael, among others, drew inspiration from the remnants of ancient Rome for their designs and works. Some exploratory digging occurred during the Renaissance, but it was informal and not part of systematic archaeological work. People were more interested in uncovering artifacts and sculptures than in understanding the Forum's historical context.

By the 18th century, archaeological practices became somewhat more organized. Scholars like Carlo Fea began identifying and studying structures in the Forum. However, it was still largely buried under layers of earth and debris. The first significant, organized excavations of the Roman Forum began in the early 19th century under Italian archaeologists like Pietro Rosa and Giuseppe Fiorelli. In the latter part of the century, Rodolfo Lanciani conducted extensive and more scientifically rigorous excavations. During the early 20th century, Italian archaeologist Giacomo Boni carried out further detailed excavations. His work helped establish modern archaeological practices in the Forum.

In the 1920s and 1930s, Italian dictator Benito Mussolini oversaw extensive excavations of the Roman Forum as part of his broader campaign to glorify ancient Rome and associate his fascist regime with the grandeur of the Roman Empire. Many Medieval and Renaissance structures, including churches and houses, were demolished to focus on and highlight the ancient ruins. Since the mid-20th century, excavation and research in the Roman Forum have continued under the direction of the Italian government and various international collaborations. Modern technology, such as 3D mapping and ground-penetrating radar, has enhanced these efforts.

Today, though the Ancient Roman Forum is nearly completely excavated and some monuments partially restored, it remains largely rubble. It can be very hard to decipher and make sense of what you are seeing, especially since the structures were originally added over centuries of time. That's why when you come to Rome with us, we provide you with graphics that show how the Forum looked in its glorious past and when structures were added, so that you can gain a comprehensive and accurate picture of what you are seeing.

13/12/2024

Le Foto del Giorno. The extraordinary portrait bust of Pope Innocent X Pamphilj by the great Italian Baroque sculptor Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Bernini created this masterpiece in 1650, at the height of his career, Here he captures in marble a complex psychological portrait of a real individual that speaks to us still today. Note also the technical virtuosity with which Bernini sculpted the flowing robe, the buttons, and the pope's beard. This bust resides in the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, the historic family palace which is today a fantastic art museum, well worth a visit.

12/12/2024

La Foto del Giorno: La Bocca della Verita - The Mouth of Truth. Legend has it that if you tell a lie and put your hand into the mouth of this Ancient Roman sewer cover, it will bite your hand off. It is obviously a scary experience as Pat demonstrates. Fortunately he was able to keep his hand, verifying him as a truth teller when it comes to all things Ancient Rome. Stay tuned for more.

11/12/2024

La Foto del Giorno. A beautiful tree-lined street in Rome. The trees are Eurasian plane trees (sycamores). They are related to, but not identical to, the western plane (sycamore) trees found in North America.

11/12/2024

La Foto del Giorno: la Fontana della Piazza Sant'Eustachio. This hidden gem is a perfect mashup of Ancient, Renaissance, and Baroque Rome, It is near the famous Roman coffeehouse Sant'Eustachio il Caffè. While locals and tourists alike flock to the coffeehouse, many overlook this fountain because it is on a side street with nothing else but government offices. But it is precisely the kind of thing that we make sure that you get to experience in Rome.

The giant marble basin of the fountain was discovered in 1570 during excavation work near the ancient site of the Temple of Isis and Serapis, located in the area that corresponds to modern-day Piazza della Minerva (a few blocks away, on the other side of the Pantheon). That temple complex was one of the largest centers of Egyptian cult worship in Rome, and it yielded numerous artifacts and architectural elements during Renaissance excavations. We don't know the exact function of the basin - perhaps part of a bath complex, or maybe a decorative element. We do know that, a decade after its discovery, Pope Sixtus V (1585-1590) moved the basin here as part of his comprehensive Reanissance urban renewal plan. He connected it to the Acqua Vergine, the aqueduct (originally built in 19 BCE under Augustus) that he was restoring. This aqueduct supplies water to the Trevi Fountain as well as the fountain in front of the Pantheon and those in the Piazza Navona. In 1696 under Pope Innocent XII the fountain was given the Baroque design we see today, with an octagonal base contrasted with the giant circular basin. Come to Rome with us and admire this historical mashup while sipping a tasty brew from what many say is the best coffeehouse in Rome.

09/12/2024

Le Foto del Giorno: Remnants of the Baths of Trajan. The second of the Five Good Emperors of early 2nd century CE Rome, Trajan was the first non-Latin emperor. He was born in the Roman province of Hispania. Like most of the Giulio-Claudian emperors who had preceded him, Trajan built an enormous bath complex as his gift to the Roman people. Today only remnants remain on the Oppian Hill.

08/12/2024

Roma Domenica: A Sunday Blog about All Things Roman. Today: The Pantheon. The Pantheon in Rome stands as one of the most remarkable and enduring architectural achievements of Ancient Rome. It was originally constructed around 27 BCE by Marcus Agrippa during the reign of Emperor Augustus as a temple dedicated to all the gods, as its name implies: Pantheion from Greek, meaning "all gods". It was later rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian around 118-125 CE after a fire destroyed the original structure. Hadrian decided to retain the original attribution and thus the Pantheon entablature today reads M·AGRIPPA·L·F·COS·TERTIVM·FECIT ("Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, made this"). Though Agrippa was long since dead at the time of the rebuild, the attribution ties the building back to the beginning of the Empire and emphasizes the continuity of imperial rule and grandeur.

The Pantheon’s primary significance lies in its unprecedented engineering and its architectural innovations. The most striking feature is the vast, unreinforced concrete dome, which remains the largest of its kind in the world to this day. The dome’s design is a masterclass in engineering, with a series of progressively lighter materials used as the dome rises. Though it is not apparent from the inside, the walls of the rotunda are 20 feet thick, as is the base of the dome. It gradually reduces to about 4 feet thick at the center. The coffering in the ceiling (square cutouts) also reduces the weight as well as reinforcing the structure. The oculus at the center of the dome—an opening 25.5 feet in diameter—not only serves as the building’s principal source of natural light but also symbolically connects the temple to the heavens.

The main part of the temple - the rotunda - comprises a perfect hemisphere of 43.3 meters or 142 feet. That is, it is exactly as wide as it is tall, The structure's circular form and harmonious proportions convey a sense of unity between the earthly and the divine.
The grand entrance to the Pantheon is a portico of 16 Corinthian columns, each carved from a single piece of Egyptian granite nearly 39 feet tall. At the time it was built, ground level in this area was 25 feet lower, so that the porch was reached by a set of grand marble steps. The massive bronze doors are original (as restored over the years), each one measuring 23 feet tall by 13 feet wide.

From the front, the Pantheon looks like a traditional Greek-style rectangular temple. It is only upon entering that one experiences the breathtaking grandeur and harmony of the perfectly spherical rotunda. And there is yet another bit of engineering brilliance here that is almost magical. April 21 is the traditional date of the founding of Rome (by Romulus, in 753 BCE). On that day every year, the light from the oculus shines directly onto the front doorway. Imagine those giant bronze doors swinging open to reveal the Emperor standing there silhouetted in golden sunshine. It must have been quite a sight.

In 609 CE the Roman Emperor Phocas visited Rome from his capital of Byzantium. (A celebratory column still standing in the Forum today commemorates his visit.) During this visit he donated the Pantheon to the Pope. It is the conversion of the Pantheon into a Christian church (known as the Basilica of St. Mary and the Martyrs) that ensured its preservation through the centuries. This status, along with the extraordinary craftsmanship of its design, allowed the Pantheon to survive through the decline of the Roman Empire and the subsequent Medieval period, when many other monuments fell into ruin.

The Pantheon stands as an embodiment of Roman architectural and engineering prowess. Its influence is far-reaching; the design of the dome inspired countless structures in the Western world, from Renaissance buildings like St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City to modern-day works of architecture. The combination of its technical mastery, aesthetic beauty, and enduring functionality has made the Pantheon a symbol of Roman imperial power and artistic achievement.

07/12/2024

La Foto del Giorno. The Arch of Janus at night. This unique Ancient Roman monument is composed of 2 barrel vaults at right angles to each other which intersect to form a groin vault. It is dedicated to Janus, the famous god with 2 faces. The Ancient Romans placed it here in the Forum Holitorium (the Vegetable Market) as one of the earliest examples of market security: Since the god Janus could look in two directions at once, it would be much harder for shoppers to steal from the vendors. The monument, in the process of being restored, is beautifully lit at night. This is the kind of thing we make sure you see as part of your intelligent adventure with us.

06/12/2024

Le Foto del Giorno. In 1870, when Italy was unified and Rome became its capital, the new government decided to do something to mitigate the floods which had devastated the city for millennia. Their response was the Lungotevere - 40-50 foot high walls along the river. While these imposing walls have effectively shielded Rome from major flooding, they have also separated the city from its river. There are lower pathways at the river level which can be accessed from stairways and ramps at selected bridges. These pathways are comparatively little used, and never crowded - with one exception. Every summer, from late June to early September, Rome celebrates its Summer Festival on the Tiber, with booths and tents along the lower promenade providing food, entertainment, and shopping. It is always crowded - with locals as well as tourists - and a great venue for strolling and people watching.

05/12/2024

La Foto del Giorno: The magnificent dome of St. Peter's Basilica, seen from a window of the Vatican Museums. The dome was designed by Michelangelo, though he didn't live to see it completed. That was done by Giacomo della Porta, who raised the top a bit to make the dome more egg-shaped than hemispherical. The tallest building on the left is the Sistine Chapel.

04/12/2024

La Foto del Giorno! BISCOTTI! Happy National Cookie Day! In honor of this delicious treat we have posted a picture of the Italian treat Biscotti. According to Wikipedia these are " Italian almond biscuits originating in the city of Prato, in Tuscany. They are twice-baked, oblong-shaped, dry, and crunchy. In Italy, they are known as cantucci, biscotti di Prato or biscotti etruschi and may be dipped in a drink."

19/11/2024

Le Foto del Giorno. At first glance, these 2000-year-old works of art may seem to be paintings. Upon closer inspection you find that they are actually mosaics, made up of hundreds of tiny colored stones. These were most likely made by slaves - perhaps captured with their lives spared because of their demonstrated artistic ability - but certainly trained in workshops of mosaic art. These are some of the highest expressions of that art. These particular works are in the Capitoline Museum, in a small gallery filled with portrait busts. It is in the Palazzo Nuovo, near the end of the museum itinerary, and many tired visitors, satiated with art, might miss them. Not so when you go to Rome with us. We make sure that you see the highlights.

16/11/2024

La Foto del Giorno. La Bella Roma! (e anche la Città del Vaticano)

15/11/2024

La Foto del Giorno: Eating well in Rome. Last summer we discovered a great little trattoria. This place is near St. Paul's Outside the Walls. I don't think they get too many tourists, as no one spoke English. The food was GREAT. Trattoria Zampagna, we will be back!

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Videos

Baroque Piazzas

La Video del Giorno. Rome is a city of Piazzas. Many are creations of the Baroque city planners.

Largo Argentina

il Video del Giorno: Largo Argentina. In the heart of historic Rome is this wonderful excavation of four temples dating to the Republican era (6th to 1st centuries BCE). It also has been identified as the location of the the assasination of Julius Caesar. Last year it was opened up to public access on elevated walkways. We can't wait to check it out.

Santa Maria Maggiore

il Video del Giorno. While visiting the church of Santa Maria Maggiore we encontered this pilgrimage choir giving an impromptu concert.

Rome Traffic - from the bus

Il Video del Giorno. Traffic in Rome: from a bus near Santa Maria in Cosmedin and the Circus Maximus. We're nearly home (in Rome)!

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