Culinary Backstreets Tbilisi

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Culinary Backstreets Tbilisi The Global Guide to Local Eats
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If you’re planning a trip to Tbilisi, you’ll want to bookmark this guide to the city’s best wine bars. Find out more: ht...
02/08/2024

If you’re planning a trip to Tbilisi, you’ll want to bookmark this guide to the city’s best wine bars. Find out more: https://hubs.la/Q02JYg0V0

Need help navigating Tbilisi’s Georgian wine scene? Culinary Backstreets has you covered. Our local guides have handpicked the absolute best wine bars in town to sample the best Georgian vintages.

Tbilisi is a city of bread. This staple food has a permanent residency on every kitchen sideboard and a space on every m...
21/02/2024

Tbilisi is a city of bread. This staple food has a permanent residency on every kitchen sideboard and a space on every modern table, and has been consumed in Georgia since the beginning of the 6th millennium BC. Here are the places we go to for the city’s best: https://hubs.la/Q02lMnjQ0

Discover the best baked goods in tone bakeries across Tbilisi. We explored the different types of traditional bread alongside innovative sourdough being made with 100 percent native Georgian wheat.

Real khinkali is from the high mountains. And so, with a mission to serve real mountain khinkali, chef Gela Arabuli open...
31/01/2024

Real khinkali is from the high mountains. And so, with a mission to serve real mountain khinkali, chef Gela Arabuli opened his restaurant, Pictograma, serving juicy minced beef mixed with the only permissible spices according to Gela – khondari or summer savory, and kvlia or dzira, local names for caraway.

Read more: https://hubs.la/Q02jh76x0

Traditional Khevsuri khinkali remain the staple dish at Pictograma, which also serves up other dishes rarely found in other restaurants in Tbilisi.

Cheesemaking couple Leo and Sopo came to Kakheti from Tbilisi in 2005, and they’re forging a separate path to create the...
08/01/2024

Cheesemaking couple Leo and Sopo came to Kakheti from Tbilisi in 2005, and they’re forging a separate path to create their own Georgian cheese from cow and goat’s milk. Born of a hobby (and a gift cow), they are starting a new cheese tradition.

Find out more about Tbilisi’s trailblazing cheesemakers: https://hubs.la/Q02fBM250

Based in Kakheti, Marleta Cheese is creating new types of Georgian cheese from cow and goat’s milk, which they sell at their shop in Tbilisi.

At Sabir’s, the last chaikhana in Tbilisi, no food, coffee or soft drinks are served; you’ll find only tea, sugar and le...
02/01/2024

At Sabir’s, the last chaikhana in Tbilisi, no food, coffee or soft drinks are served; you’ll find only tea, sugar and lemon. This tea house is in Tbilisi’s ancient bath district of Abanotubani, home to a tight, multiethnic community of mostly Azeris, who have lived here for generations.

Find this tea house: https://hubs.la/Q02dZ_jM0

Chaikanas (teahouses) used to be a common sight in Abanotubani, Tbilisi's ancient bath district, but today Sabir's nameless teahouse is the only one left.

Salty, sticky, and above all pungent, dambalkhacho certainly isn’t for the fainthearted. But for iron-nostrilled khinkal...
24/11/2023

Salty, sticky, and above all pungent, dambalkhacho certainly isn’t for the fainthearted. But for iron-nostrilled khinkali-lovers, the soft, moldy cheese is one of the main attractions at Asi Khinkali, a cozy cellar restaurant in Tbilisi’s Marjanishvili district.

Follow your nose (or the link) to Asi Khinkali: https://hubs.la/Q029XRfS0

In Tbilisi, a hankering for brains used to mean only one thing – a visit to Alani, the Ossetian restaurant near the sulf...
09/11/2023

In Tbilisi, a hankering for brains used to mean only one thing – a visit to Alani, the Ossetian restaurant near the sulfur baths in Old Tbilisi. But if you’re in the mood for less adventurous fare, you can load up on Georgian classics like baked chicken tabaka and chakapuli, lamb stewed in tarragon and sour plums. And no meal at Alani is complete without a serving of its signature khabizgini, the Ossetian potato and cheese version of Georgia’s champion cheese bread, khachapuri. https://hubs.la/Q028m-sz0

Sandwiches as snacks are relatively new to Tbilisi. But these 2 stores are serving up great Georgian sandwiches inspired...
18/06/2023

Sandwiches as snacks are relatively new to Tbilisi. But these 2 stores are serving up great Georgian sandwiches inspired by local flavors. https://hubs.la/Q01TTZkP0

🖊️+ 📸: Clément Girardot

While Georgia has a strong dining culture, it is not well-known for its street food. Food delivery startups launched during the pandemic are trying to develop fast food offers with sandwiches inspired by the local gastronomy, like Shoti and Barbaresgan.

The isolated mountain village of Ghebi, in Georgia’s northern borderlands of Racha, might sit out of reach for many. Luc...
06/06/2023

The isolated mountain village of Ghebi, in Georgia’s northern borderlands of Racha, might sit out of reach for many. Luckily, you can still try the region’s comfort food at its namesake basement restaurant, where lobio, lobiani, and skhmeruli await. https://hubs.la/Q01SxbCB0

🖊️+ 📸: Pearly Jacob

Ghebi, located on Tbilisi’s Aghmashenebeli Avenue, is one of our go-to favorites for affordable, traditional dishes from Racha and across Georgia.

When the buttery, bready, eggy khachapuri hits the table, it immediately becomes the star of the show. Check out this be...
05/06/2023

When the buttery, bready, eggy khachapuri hits the table, it immediately becomes the star of the show. Check out this behind-the-scenes moment from our Tbilisi trip - and book your spot here! https://hubs.ly/Q01SjnZB0

Duqani Kasumlo has acquired semi-cult status for its kebabs in an area better known for its cluster of home improvement ...
13/04/2023

Duqani Kasumlo has acquired semi-cult status for its kebabs in an area better known for its cluster of home improvement stores and the labyrinthine Eliava market, home to hawkers of used car parts and construction materials. https://hubs.la/Q01Lppbt0

A walk through the Dezertirebi Bazaar will show you a little bit of everything in Georgian cuisine - all sourced from lo...
21/03/2023

A walk through the Dezertirebi Bazaar will show you a little bit of everything in Georgian cuisine - all sourced from local farmers.

Want to have a taste of this and much more? We’ve got space on our upcoming Tbilisi trip! Read more here: https://hubs.la/Q01HBbJ00

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More Than Food

When it comes to exploring a city’s authentic dining scene, while the stomach should ideally serve as the best compass, the truth of the matter is that it’s hard to find your way without good local advice. That’s where Culinary Backstreets comes in. Partnering up with some of the most knowledgeable and passionate food writers and bloggers around the globe, Culinary Backstreets plans to serve as a hotline for the hungry traveler, bedside reading for the foodie vo**ur, and a heavily bookmarked index for those who want to dive into the culinary backstreets featured on our pages.

With dispatches from Athens, Barcelona, Istanbul, Shanghai, Mexico City, Lisbon, Porto, Tokyo, Naples, Tbilisi, Queens, Beijing and, as we grow, from other cities around the world, Culinary Backstreets will help you explore these gastro-capitals and get off these cities’ eaten path. In order to do this, we will also be offering (with selected partners) guided culinary walks in some of the cities we cover.

Our purpose is twofold. Yes, we want to get you to some good places to eat. But we also want to make sure that some of these spots and the artisans making food there – unsung heroes who are sometimes forgotten or taken for granted at home – find a new audience and get the recognition and support they deserve. They are holding back the tide of globalized sameness, which is not easy work – even if it’s done unknowingly. But we believe that every meal counts and, with the help of our readers, they will add up.

As we grow, we hope to create a community of readers and writers who follow their stomachs to the next destination. In an age of globalization, mass migration and ever faster, cheaper and easier modes of transport, cities are now the most significant and accessible repositories of authentic local culture, particularly in culinary terms. Eating locally and authentically has become the easiest and most satisfying way to get a sense of a place’s real culture and traditions. It also happens to be the tastiest way to do this. On this site, we invite you to join us as we explore the culinary backstreets.