Heritage Walks

31/08/2024

“The Kaurs of 1984” by Sanam Sutirath Wazir revisits the harrowing devastation inflicted upon Sikhs following the assassination of Indira Gandhi. The trauma of those affected, particularly women, is documented through a ghastly narrative created from oral histories that leaves an indelible impact on those who engage with it. Graphic imagery is evoked as survivors recall memories still fresh in their minds, of losing their families; shedding their identities; being betrayed by those they considered friends; unprotected by the very institution that pledges adherence to the principle of secularism, promising unwavering protection on its basis; and so much more.

A sombre period in the country’s past marked by hatred and barbarity, the experiences of Sikh women during this time have not been as extensively recorded. In the unwarranted attacks against their community, they suffered violations of all kinds, uprooted and displaced from their residence, forcibly made to witness their loved ones being martyred by mobs and facing harassment, physical and psychological, at the hands of the aggressors. As their pleas for help went unheard, they were impelled to leave their homes of which nothing remained, left to figure out ways to survive, transitioning from homemakers to wage earners in order to raise their children. Recollections of women who took to militancy are elaborated. The work also highlights reasons behind the failure of rehabilitation efforts as these women are still enduring the pains inflicted upon them, grappling with wounds that are only beginning to surface.

19/08/2024

Sultan Firuz Shah, the third ruler of the Tughlaq dynasty, reigned over Delhi from 1351 to 1388 and was known for his architectural innovations and accomplishments. Among his notable works was the installation of two Ashokan pillars in the city, which were transported from Topra and Meerut. Uprooting and moving them was a remarkable feat, especially the monolith at his capital Firuz Shah Kotla, which weighed 27 tons and required dismantling and transportation via river.

The pillar in his fortress was placed atop a stepped pyramid and was intended to be displayed as an impressive monument for future generations to witness. It was renamed “Minar-e-Zarin” meaning “golden column” because of its burnished appearance. Scholars from distant places were invited to attempt decrypting the inscriptions on its surface. However their ventures proved futile as knowledge of the Brahmi and Prakrit scripts had declined considerably in northern India. Nonetheless, local legends and contemporary accounts have helped shape their interpretation. Some believed it to be the “walking stick of Bhim”, used for herding cattle by the most powerful of the Pandava brothers from the Mahabharata. Others associate it with a revered djinn named Lat Baba with “Lat” meaning pillar and “Baba” referring to a venerated figure, making it a sacred site.

The other pillar stands near Firuz Shah’s hunting lodge on the northern ridge, the Pir Ghaib. It was damaged in an 18th-century explosion and subsequently reassembled. Carvings on it, which detail Ashoka’s principles of administration and initiatives of public welfare, were gifted for study to the Asiatic Society in Calcutta by Hindu Rao.

04/08/2024

The earliest account of a settlement in Delhi has been traced in the epic of Mahabharata, which alludes to the city of Indraprastha. Thereafter, control over the region was assumed by the Tomars, Chahamanas, Sultans, Mughals and British, respectively.

Regimes led by each of these had distinct reasons for occupying the city, and once established, they left their mark, discernible in the architectural styles adopted by them. Structures from the time of the Delhi Sultanate like the Hauz Khas Complex, Qutub Minar and Tughlaqabad Fort are marked by Indo-Islamic elements, their distinct domes contrasting the Sikhars of Hindu frameworks. The Mughal period introduced imposing buildings such as the Red Fort and Humayun’s Tomb, featuring red sandstone, white marble, lush gardens and ornate domes. Colonial aesthetics are visible in constructions like the Parliament House and Central Secretariat. All are reflective of the cultures that existed in the city and contributed to its selfhood.

The origin of Delhi along with the transformations it underwent over time are detailed in Percival Spear’s “Delhi: A Historical Sketch”. One of the four books in “The Delhi Omnibus” collection, it incorporates photographs, chronicles and references to old records, which together provide readers with an understanding of Delhi’s transition into a metropolis.

28/07/2024

In Old Delhi, place names were often drawn from local trades, renowned commercial classes or notable figures residing in the area. An eminent landmark here is the Town Hall, built by the British on premises formerly owned by Shahjahan’s daughter Jahanara. During the Mughal era, the location accommodated a city square and an octagonal pool. The precinct measured 100 by 100 yards and flowing through it was a canal that reflected moonlight which led to it being recognised as Chandni Chowk or “Moonlit Square”.

Constructed between 1860 and 1865, the Town Hall serves as a key example of British civic architecture in the city, fashioned to facilitate interaction between the local community and Europeans. Originally named the Lawrence Institute, it was envisioned to house the municipality office, chamber of commerce, literary society and museum. It was predominantly funded by local traders and the public. The municipality also made significant contributions to its construction owing to which, they asserted on using it exclusively, eventually purchasing the building in 1866 for over 1,00,000 rupees.

The architecture is a fusion of Victorian elements, East India railway station style and Italian railway station features from Punjab which prompted stringent criticism for its dismal design. Recognised publications of the time asserted that it was the public’s right to expect better aesthetics. However, officials dismissed these sentiments by highlighting their scant contribution of Rs. 40,000. Also featured at the site is a statue of Swami Shradhanand who protested against the Rowlatt Act here.

22/07/2024

Fascination is one way to describe the experience of becoming familiar with all that is confined within Delhi, a city where speckles of foregone times exist in tandem with the verve of everydayness. Standing in places one least expects, camouflaged between highrise buildings and proudly staking claim over key spots like busy roads and complexes, old structures that have withstood the test of time and are sights to behold make one contemplate their history.

Exploring this peculiar mix of antiquity and modernity, as well as the latter’s intrusion into townships that are hundreds of years old, Charles Lewis and Karoki Lewis, in “Delhi’s Historic Villages”, present an informative report about lesser known monuments from medieval times, focusing on eight villages- Begumpur, Khirki, Chiragh Delhi, Shahpur Jat, Masjid Moth, Hauz Khas, Nizamuddin and Mehrauli. In depth archival research, interviews with villagers and evocative photography thoroughly encapsulate how urbanity has bled into the traditions of these communities obliged to navigate and adapt to continual changes and adopt new lifestyles. Capturing Delhi’s dynamic and juxtaposed identity, the book emphasises the importance of preserving relics reflecting its storied past and is sure to keep readers interested.

14/07/2024

Every year Delhi University attracts students from across the country vying to secure a spot in one of its many prestigious colleges. Reasons for this high demand are manifold, including the allure of studying in the national capital; university’s reputation; variety of courses offered; opportunities for obtaining affordable education; vibrant college culture; increased networking prospects, etc. In conjunction with other institutes, St. Stephen’s college and Hindu college often constitute two of the top choices for aspiring students. Surprisingly, both predate the establishment of Delhi University itself!

Tracing its origin back to 1881, St. Stephen’s College was started in a haveli in Old Delhi’s Katra Kaushal Rai of Kinari Bazar. Initially a Cambridge Missionary’s initiative, it was relocated twice before settling at its present location. Between 1892 and 1940 it stood in Kashmiri Gate. The original campus now serves as the office of the Election Commission.

Hindu College was founded by nationalists in response to and as a display of resistance against the western education being proselytised by the British. The campus was located near St. Stephen’s College and was the initiative of Krishan Dassji Gurwale who started it with other visionaries in 1899, in order to impart patriotic education in a secular and egalitarian manner. Originally linked to Punjab University, the college was housed in a building in Kinari Bazar, Chandni Chowk, and underwent a major confrontation with the former in 1902 over the dearth of proper facilities. Rai Bahadur Lala Sultan Singh’s generous donation of a part of his Kashmiri Gate property to the college resolved the issue. The college operated from there till 1953. Today the area accommodates governmental offices.

In 1922, both colleges became the first ones to affiliate with the newly established University of Delhi.

19/06/2024

Piracy, in its various forms, operates as a shadow financial institution that challenges traditional notions of proprietorship and consumption. From active urban markets selling counterfeit products to the widespread practice of large-scale photocopying of popular literary works and availability of otherwise difficult to access academic materials online via platforms that simply require Digital Object Identifiers (DOI), piracy thrives on providing accessible alternatives amidst soaring costs. It impacts cultural narratives and reshapes technological access, resulting in a predicament, obscuring the link between what is permissible by law and what is not. Issues of moderation and control follow.

In “Pirate Modernity: Delhi’s Media Urbanism”, Ravi Sundaram traces the origins of this process and changes propagated by technological advancement, at large, owing to globalisation, in Delhi and the culture of its people, broaching several key issues and events that marked their development and expansion as well as underlying causal and maintaining factors. Touched upon are circumstances that set forth the creation of the 1962 Master Plan and innovations that aimed at promulgating a modern city which required its inhabitants to possess an “urban psyche”, such as a variety of media and technology ranging from print media and television to public and private modes of transportation. Both pros and cons of these dramatic changes are highlighted and with the inclusion of maps, of the city and bazaars; pictures, of forms and markets; newspaper cuts of anti piracy campaigns; and comic series, the particulars discussed in the text exhaustively encapsulate today’s information culture.

08/06/2024

St. James Church stands as a prominent symbol of colonial heritage in the Kashmiri Gate neighbourhood. Established in 1836 it has endured as the first and oldest surviving church in the city, bearing witness to historical events like the sepoy mutiny of 1857.

James Skinner, also known as ‘Sikandar Saheb’, was born in Calcutta to a British East India Company officer and a Rajput woman. His Anglo-Indian heritage shaped his military career, being the reason behind his initial assignment as a low rank officer in the Maratha Army at the age of 16. He rose to prominence after joining the British Indian Army when he founded the Skinner's Horse, a cavalry regiment also referred to as the Yellow Boys, derived from the colour of the uniforms. The immense success of the regiment as well as Skinner’s near fatality during the conflict between the East India Company and Marathas in 1803 resulted in him being conferred the Church as a gift.

The building is characterised by a Greek cross layout surmounted by a high dome. Featured ahead of it is a memorial cross. Inside, a collection of memorial tablets can be found. The churchyard commemorates the lives of notable individuals associated with the church, including James Skinner himself, his family, dear friend William Fraser and Thomas Metcalfe. During the Rebellion of 1857, the church faced targeted attacks by sepoys who seized all movable items from the it, including marble slabs, chairs, and tables, while repurposing it as a headquarters, with a canteen and field hospital set up inside. As the records of the church were destroyed during the mutiny, it is difficult to discern who designed it.

27/05/2024

Historically, jhuggi jhopris have been conceptualised as sites of urban blight, characterised by overcrowding, poverty and social disorganisation. We are familiar with demolition drives and other measures undertaken to clear out slums. We see headlines and discussions about them in the news. A quick search online will also reveal that promises of rehabilitation and restoration for those living in these areas are hardly met. Is there more to this issue than the usual process of identification of cause, associated problems and implementation of interventions? Where does the matter lie in the scope of city planning?

In “Rule by Aesthetics: World-Class City Making in Delhi”, D. Asher Ghertner delineates a way of planning that focuses on an envisaged “world class” city rather than making use of deliberate strategies involving use of maps, surveys and census. He explains this concept by describing planning during colonial times, when the British, using the equipment available at their disposal, focused on appearance, looking at Indian cities through the lens of how they wished for them to look in the future. Tying the concept of ‘rule by aesthetics’ to city planning and governance in Delhi at present the author untangles the complexity of the slums, throwing light on the bifurcation between popular perceptions about individuals residing within them and their lived realities.

Providing a nuanced account of unequal development and the interplay of structural inequalities, institutional neglect and individual agency, the book also addresses the influence of media portrayal, offering readers insight on the implications of aesthetic governmentality.

19/05/2024

Hearing the name “Kashmiri Gate” might conjure up images of a bustling metro station, the largest in the city, teeming with activity and crowds that can overwhelm even the most habituated commuters. Yet, for those who take interest in history, it evokes a journey back in time to when Kashmiri Gate stood proudly among the other gates of Old Delhi, a semblance of its former grandeur still visible in its appearance. Today, it is one of the four remaining gates.

Originally serving as a passage to Kashmir, which is how it got its name, the gate was fortified by the British East India Company prior to 1857. It witnessed fierce battles during the rebellion and suffered substantial damage. Notably, it held immense strategic importance for the British, who entered Delhi through it on September 14th to reclaim control of the capital. Prior to this rebels had attempted to stave them off by firing cannonballs from the gate. Additionally, it served as an important meeting point to plan for the revolt.

Featuring two arched openings and compartments, a bastion was built around it by the British. Designed by Robert Smith in 1835, the double gateway aimed to enhance the city walls’ defenses, with visible signs of damage inflicted by the British trying to enter the city still discernible today. Erected nearby is a memorial honoring British soldiers who lost their lives in the mutiny. Notably, visitors can observe the demarcation separating the areas occupied by the Indians and British, with the former nestled within the city walls and the latter occupying the elevated ridge area, positioned 60 feet above. The aftermath of the rebellion across associated sites was recorded by European photographer Felice Beato.

During the Mughal era, due to its proximity to the Yamuna river, the area around the Gate became popular for recreational activities, with gardens and country houses built by members of the royal family and courtiers. In more recent history, the gate provided refuge to people during the Partition of India in 1947 and sustained damage due to increased traffic in 1965.

10/05/2024

The terms urban and village seem to lie on opposite ends of a spectrum and are likely to strike a dissonance when put together. After all, how can a village be urban? Is the urbanity observed in villages different from other parts of the city? What kind of developments have led to this transformation and its subsequent maintenance? What happens to the communities? How are their lives affected? What is the nature of their relationship with governing bodies?

Irradiating answers to all of these and more in her book “Properties of Rent: Community, Capital and Politics in Globalising Delhi”, Sushmita Pati traces the emergence of private ownership in agrarian acreages, focusing on two urban villages in South Delhi- Munirka and Shahpur Jat as well as, how the two differ in the wake of this metamorphosis. With one becoming a hub for rental accommodation and another known for facilitating artistic endeavours and housing several designer boutiques, the author explores the processes behind this phenomenon using concepts such as accumulation by dispossession and studying rent as more than just an economic affair.

Effects of urbanisation on the lives of agrarian societies such as occupational changes, with many going into the real estate business, along with issues relating to unequal access plaguing this development are reviewed. Influences associated with social life, political discourse about matters of control over land, culture, gender and the Covid-19 pandemic are elaborated. Abundant in information, the book is an educational read with maps and figures to supplement the literature.

28/04/2024

Most of us know about the events of 1857 and major figures like Rani Laxmi Bai, Bahadur Shah Zafar, Nana Saheb, Tantia Tope and Mangal Pandey, whose bravery fills the pages of our history books, is limned in art, and represented in media.

In Delhi, capturing the city was crucial for both the sepoys and the British due to its ties to the Mughal emperor. The British triumphed, resulting in the memorialisation of sites where significant events occurred.

One of them is the Nicholson Cemetery in Kashmiri Gate. It is named after Brigadier General John Nicholson, a revered figure, for the British during the Revolt, who played an important role in breaking through the resistance shown by the rebels occupying Shahjahanabad. He lost his life in the process and is said to have held out against his injuries till he got to know of British victory.

Tales of his character and personality are plentiful, including mentions of his impeccable swordsmanship and strict leadership. Preferring torture and punishment over immediate death, he was known to make an example of his captives.

Knowing this, one would be surprised to learn about the extent of people’s devotion towards him, so much so that even a religious cult was formed in his name! Referred to as the Nikal Seyna, adherents of the movement deemed him to be a manifestation of Vishnu. The object of their high regard, on the other hand, fostered a strong dislike for indigenous people and their attempts at venerating him only strengthened his scorn.

He died at the age of 35 and a marble slab serving as his cenotaph was located in and later, looted from a Mughal Garden in Delhi, Mehtab Bagh. A statue was also erected across the road from the cemetery and was sent to Northern Ireland in 1952.

21/04/2024

It goes without question that culture shapes our interactions in, beliefs and attitudes towards the social world. Additionally, it permeates the built environment, impacting architectural styles and overall urban planning and design. Expressed in monuments, housing, occupational and recreational spaces, through the agency of dominant ideologies prevalent at specific points of time, culture shapes the formation of complex identities, of cities and communities.

Critically analysing the impact of cultures on environmental modifications and infrastructural developments, Pilar Maria Guerrieri, in her book ‘Negotiating Cultures’, explores the hybridity that exists in Delhi as a result of its occupation by different actors across various time periods and deliberations within and between them.

Focusing on the ways in which the cityscape was moulded to align with the needs and visions of these actors specifically, in the years prior to and after independence, it touches upon themes of housing typologies, the need for catering to the heterogeneous populations residing in different parts of the city and the role of climatic conditions in guiding decisions regarding developmental pursuits and expected outcomes. Attention is called to the nature of these differences and how instead of being segregated they are assimilated into the city’s framework. Implications of globalisation are also expressed. Drawing from an array of primary and secondary sources like interviews, archival data, photographs and drawings, the book allows readers to journey through the metropolis’ transformation into its present state.

21/04/2024

Delhi, Momos & Dolma Aunty!

The maker of delectable momos, a Tibetan dumpling, recently won a trademark case, years after imitators tried to piggyback on the coat-tails of her success and name

13/04/2024

The Dara Shikoh Library at Kashmere Gate was built in 1637 CE by Shahjahan’s oldest and most beloved son after whom it is named. It boasts a rich history owing to the range of purposes it served for the people who lived here over time.

The books at the library were believed to have been moved one at a time fastidiously by the prince from the then Mughal capital Agra. Later, the palace it was a part of was accorded, as a gift, to a Portuguese lady named Donna Juliana who was favoured by the court and whose family resided there for two generations. This building was also the residence of Ali Mardan Khan, a noble of extreme importance during the reign of Shah Jahan.

From 1803 to 1832, it was home to the first British resident, David Ochterlony, a time period where portions of the residency, including the library, were renovated, tailored to suit British tastes. The large white building with blue shuttered windows and Romanesque pillars surrounding the outer sections appeared to be a hub for activities such as nautches and billiard games in evenings. Today, remains of the library can still be spotted towards the back of the residency, with some arches of red sandstone offering a glimpse into its past opulence.

The space was used by the Delhi College from 1832 to 1857 until the Sepoy Mutiny, in the wake of which it served as the artillery barracks of the British. The library was looted of its contents with the books being either stolen or destroyed.

Control over the building’s operation was taken by the Department of Archaeology in the 1980s. It was converted into a museum and at present, houses the governmental body’s offices. The campus also features some colonial buildings with unique square battlement patterns. Last year, a Partition Museum was inaugurated at the location, second to the one in Amritsar.

24/03/2024

Fourty eight years ago now was a tumultuous time for India. The state of Emergency, declared on June 25 by late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi, lasted for almost two years and led to changes in the lives of people way beyond what is described and taught in school. There was press censorship. Members of the opposition were incarcerated. Fundamental Rights of citizens were annulled. While all of this is true, it offers nothing more than a cursory glance at one of the most important incidents in the country’s political history.

What happened to the people going about their daily lives? How did they get to know about this new development? What were they doing when they got to know? How did they respond to the news? How did it feel to be stripped of their prerogatives? How were their relationships affected? How did they subsist?

Weaving together a neat tale using illustrations, Vishwajyoti Ghosh, in Delhi Calm, his first graphic novel, offers insight into a time that was anything but. Readers get to explore this period vicariously through characters coming from different spheres of life, working diverse professions, holding different ideologies and learning of the event in varying settings. They are united by their movement and wish to bide in Delhi which has been fittingly referred to as a “powerpolis” for the abundance of opportunities and connections it still offers.

Making history more personal by tapping into the public’s perspective, this novel is sure to keep the audience's interest with its vivid and well executed sketches and text.

17/03/2024

When you hear the words Feroz Shah Kotla what comes to your mind first? The stadium which has witnessed some very iconic cricket matches or the city of Firuzabad, fragments of which have stood the test of time and lie behind the arena whose name it inspired?

Built as a capital by the third Tughlaq emperor in the 14th century, Firuz Shah Kotla served as the fortress for a city thought to have fringed areas falling within and around the northern ridge and Hauz Khas. In our two hour long expedition, we take a look at the three structures that are still extant and engaged with by the people who visit the site to offer prayers, believing it to be the dwelling place of djinns.

We start our walk by touring the public area of the complex which consists of what used to be courtyards with massive gateways. The palace area which accommodated the royal women’s quarters or zenana, is visited afterwards. Masjid-i-Jama, follows. A ring-shaped strip of grass at the core of the mosque’s precinct suggests the presence of a well and its base contains a number of vaulted cells. Another attraction is the Ashokan Pillar built by Mauryan ruler Ashoka and brought to Firuzabad from Topra. Dating back to the 3rd century B.C., it is mounted on a coned structure with detailed inscriptions about the principles of Ashoka’s reign etched on its surface. Minar-I-Zarin was the new name given to it by Firuz Shah. The last stop is a baoli, the unusual shape of which draws attention as it is unlike other step wells encountered in the city. It is circular, double storeyed and served as a pleasure pavilion.

There is a wealth of tales surrounding these edifices, of a city that flourished for a long time before it was abandoned in the 18th century.