By now it is conventional wisdom that there are no places left to discover in the world unless one goes to the extreme, the Arctic, the depths of the Sahara, or some small archipelago island off Thailand, Brazil, or Sweden. This magazine’s mission is to show you that one of the world’s great undiscovered places, Bologna and the region of Emilia-Romagna, is right in front of you in northern Italy.
Bologna has the world’s oldest university (established in 1088), one of the largest protected historic centers in Europe, Italy’s best cooking (some will argue with that), and an airport that provides quick access to other major cities via the Freccia Rossa, the country’s high-speed train. I confess that until 2010, I had never visited Bologna, despite having long experience as a travel editor in the U.S. (editor at Travel + Leisure and editor-in-chief at Departures and ForbesLife). Which only proves my point: Sometimes the great places go undetected. What I love about Bologna is that it has taken the measure of the wide world and yet remains itself. It’s not a sticker for brand names like Florence and Milan. It lives the past well: Once you get to know Bologna, you’ll find that the 17th-century map at right is still pretty accurate. (That’s the facade of the San Petronio at the center.) But Bologna is also up to date: See our story on All’Osteria Bottega (p. Bologna for Connoisseurs also covers the region of Emilia-Romagna, of which Bologna is the capital. It stretches from the Adriatic Sea to the border of Liguria, encompassing a huge heritage of architecture, art, cuisine, and (Italy’s hallmark) hand-made luxury goods. You will see that in our stories about a great (and little known) coutourier in Ferrara (p. TK); a workshop in Gambettola that hand-prints linen fabric as it did 100 years ago (p. TK); and a swath of countryside that equals Tuscany, but without the tourists (p. Come with me and discover this great city and region right on your doorstep.