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Camino de Santiago - Day 31📍Fonfría >📍Triacastela >📍Samos(19.3km)This morning, when I was walking alone in the dark, on ...
26/10/2024

Camino de Santiago - Day 31
📍Fonfría >📍Triacastela >📍Samos(19.3km)

This morning, when I was walking alone in the dark, on the mountain trail, listening to the wind whistled strongly around me. Suddenly, I realized: "When did I become so brave?"

In the past 30 days of embarking on Camino de Santiago, I have become more and more accustomed to walking alone in the dark. Even if it is a mountainous road, as long as I believe that I can do it, I no longer worry about walking alone.

Perhaps walking in the dark makes my thoughts clear. I remembered 10 years ago, I was 25, I decided to go to Australia for a working holiday. This was the first time I had been away from Taiwan for so long. And this year, I am 35, I finally on Camino de Santiago which is on my bucket list for a few years.

No matter going to Australia or on Camino de Santiago, both make me do things that I have never done before. I like to give me some challenges to push myself going out of my comfort zone. However, when I walk on Camino de Santiago, I found out how much courage I’ve gained from my travel experiences. Now, I can carry a backpack and walk at least 20km every day.

I feel grateful that I went to a country that the language and culture are different from Taiwan when I was 25. The life there made me become more independent. More importantly, farm life in Australia let me get used to facing loneliness. Maybe this is why I am not afraid being alone on Camino.

However, I feel that I am better now because the life and travel experiences allow me to continue to accomplish everything I want to do. Now that I am on Camino, I understand that I am not a person who only have dreams, but a person who really make dreams come true!

這天早上,當我獨自走在黑暗的山路,聽著身邊呼嘯而過的風聲,我突然意識到:「什麼時候我變得如此勇敢了?」

踏上朝聖之路的這30天,我居然越來越習慣一個人在黑暗中走路,即便是山路,只要我相信自己能夠面對,我就不再擔心獨自行走。

或許在黑暗中走路,能夠讓思緒更明瞭。我突然想到,10年前的自己,25歲,決定自己去澳洲打工度假,這也是我第一次離開台灣這麼久。而今年,我35歲,終於踏上我一直很想走的朝聖之路。

雖然都是一樣離開自己的舒適圈,挑戰自己從沒有做過的事,但在朝聖之路上,我才發現自己真的在過去的10年累積了不少勇氣,才能像現在這樣背著背包,每天行走至少20公里,直到終點。

所以我很感謝25歲的自己,離開自己熟悉的生活環境,在需要全英文的地方工作、生活、交朋友,更重要的是,澳洲的農場生活讓我開始習慣面對孤獨,這可能也是為什麼我可以很快就習慣朝聖之路的生活吧!

然而,我覺得現在的自己更好,因為這些生活和旅行經驗,讓我不斷地去完成每一件我想做的事。如今走在朝聖之路,讓我明白我不是一個只會擁有夢想的人,而是一個有了目標就會努力去達成的人。

#跟著唯芯去旅行 #西班牙朝聖之路 #法國之路 #一個人的旅行 #自我對話 #朝聖日記

Camino de Santiago - Day 30📍Las Herrerías >📍O Cebreiro >📍Alto do Poio >📍Fonfría (19.85km)When I walked from Las Herreías...
19/10/2024

Camino de Santiago - Day 30
📍Las Herrerías >📍O Cebreiro >📍Alto do Poio >📍Fonfría (19.85km)

When I walked from Las Herreías to La Faba in the morning, it was still dark, and the road was uphill and rocky in the forest, so I walked very carefully.

On Camino, I am getting used to walk in the dark with little headlamp light, but I was never afraid. I could clearly feel that these days of walking had increased my courage a lot.

When I arrived at La Faba, it was still dark. But I saw Vincent and Gemma walking towards me, so I waved to them and they finally recognized me.

Today's weather was another wet, cold, and rainy day, and we had to climb up to O Cebreiro, which is 1330 meters high, so I was very happy to be able to walk with them.

When we arrived at O ​​Cebreiro, we once again cheered for we made it again. Then we went to a cafe to have breakfast and Vincent bought me breakfast. Although this may only be 5 euros, I was very grateful to them for always being so kind to me.

While we were walking, I finally mustered up the courage to ask Vincent how long they had been married. Vincent told me that when he was 17, he met 19-year-old Gemma at school, and he was attracted to this beautiful girl. After that, they dated, got married, and it has been at least 45 years now!

"I have only met one woman in my life, so there is no way to compare," Vincent said humorously, but I think this is the most beautiful confession.

“Except for a period when Vincent was often away from home due to work, we basically spent every day together. The days when he wasn't at home were a little tough, but luckily we got through it!”

They told me that they were not just the spouse, but also very good friends.

I could deeply feel their love for each other, and I told them that I hoped to meet someone like them one day.

What’s even cuter is that we saw mushrooms on the road, and they started singing a mushroom song and dancing, we always found something to make us happy.

Later, I told them that I feel I am lucky to have met them on Camino. They are my Camino family!

When I was a child, my parents were busy at work and often away from home due to financial problems, so I often went to my neighbor’s (my aunt-in-law’s parent’s house) for dinner. Usually, before I went to bed, my parents didn’t come home and when I went to school, they were still sleeping. My parents rarely took us doing outdoor activities during holidays because they needed rest.

"I'm really happy to meet you and be able to walk together. I think your presence makes up for the childhood I want, the time to experience outdoor activities with my parents."

I had the same feeling when I walked with Stewart. Because my father was always very strict when I was young, it was difficult for me to be close to him. So every time I met Stewart, I finally experienced the kind of father-daughter interaction that I longed for.

Everyone says Camino provides. During Camino De Santiago, the part I felt lacking before was slowly filled by these kind people.

早上從Las Herreías走到La Faba的時候,天色還是一片漆黑,加上這一段路是在森林裡的上坡,所以我走得很小心。

在朝聖之路上,我越來越習慣只憑著頭燈那一點光在黑暗中走路,但卻從來不害怕,我開始清楚地感受到這幾週的行走讓我的勇氣增加許多。

當我抵達La Faba的時候,天依然還沒亮。但我看到Vincent 和Gemma正朝著我的方向走過來,於是我向他們揮手,而他們也終於認出我。

今天的天氣又是一個濕冷的下雨天,我們必須爬過1330公尺高的O Cebreiro,所以我很開心可以和他們走在一起。

當我們抵達O Cebreiro,我們再一次為我們成功走上來而歡呼,接著我們去咖啡店用早餐, Vincent還為我付了早餐錢,雖然這可能只是不到5歐元的善舉,但是我很謝謝他們一直對我這麼好。

走路的時候,我終於鼓起勇氣問Vincent,他和Gemma結婚多久了? Vincent告訴我,他17歲的時候在學校遇到19歲的Gemma,然後他就被這個漂亮的女生吸引了。之後他們交往、結婚,到現在至少45年了!

「我這一生只遇見一個女人,所以沒有辦法比較。」Vincent說得很幽默,但我覺得這是最美的告白。

「除了有一陣子Vincent因為工作不常在家,我們基本上每天見面。他不在家的那段日子,很不習慣,但還好我們走過來了!」

他們告訴我,他們不只是夫妻,更是很好的朋友。

我可以深刻地感受到他們的對彼此的愛,我告訴他們,我希望自己有一天也可以遇到像他們這樣的另一半。

更可愛的是,我們在路上看到蘑菇,他們兩個開始對著蘑菇唱歌跳舞,模樣真的很可愛。

後來,我告訴他們,我覺得自己很幸運可以在朝聖之路上遇見他們。他們就是我的朝聖之路家人!

小時候,我的父母忙著工作,也因為財務問題經常不在家,所以我從小就經常去隔壁舅媽家吃晚餐。我經常是睡覺前,爸爸媽媽還沒回家;出門上學的時候,爸爸媽媽還在睡覺。而父母也很少在假日的時候帶我和弟弟妹妹出去玩。

「所以我真的很高興認識你們,還可以走在一起。我覺得你們的出現,彌補了我想要的童年,和爸爸媽媽一起體驗戶外旅行的時光。」

和Stewart 一起走的時候,我也會有這樣的感覺。因為我爸爸在我小時候總是很嚴厲,所以導致我很難和爸爸有更親近的互動。所以每次和Stewart 一起,我們既是朋友,也讓我終於可以體會自己渴望的那種父女互動了。

大家都說,朝聖之路會提供每個人的需要。而這段朝聖之路,讓我以前感覺缺乏的地方,慢慢地被這群溫暖的人填滿了!

#跟著唯芯去旅行 #西班牙朝聖之路 #法國之路 #一個人的旅行 #自我對話 #朝聖日記

Camino de Santiago - Day 29📍Villafranca del Bierzo > 📍Trabadelo > 📍Las Herrerías (19.8km) When I was having breakfast at...
13/10/2024

Camino de Santiago - Day 29
📍Villafranca del Bierzo > 📍Trabadelo > 📍Las Herrerías (19.8km)

When I was having breakfast at the albergue, Brent appeared in front of me so I was very surprised. It turned out that we stayed in the same albergue but I didn't notice it.

However, it can’t blame me. Usually, if the albergue doesn't have dinner service for pilgrims, I'll have an early dinner and then go back to bed. I've talked about this with my Camino friends and maybe it's cheaper to cook our own or eat out, but the pilgrim dinner is the best time for us to sit down and get to know each other in a relaxing way. And when we return to the room, everyone will have a tacit understanding not to talk loudly so allow each other to settle down and rest.

Therefore, Brent and I started walking together. In the beginning, I couldn't keep up with him, because he had to complete more distance than me, and I didn't want to slow him down. Later, I passed a Taiwanese girl named Rice on the way, and she asked me if I am from Taiwan. Rice started her Camino from León, so she was still adjusting to the physical pain of walking.

She said she knew me by seeing me sharing my Camino diary on Facebook. When she was in León, she also met Kirstin, a German who walked with me in the heavy rain, and Kirstin also mentioned me to her.

We walked to a cofé, where there were already many pilgrims. Brent was already sitting with Kathleen (I was spelling Catherine before). He told me I walked so fast. I said that because it was rare to be able to chat in Chinese, my walking speed became faster unconsciously.

Since I only had to walk 20 km today, I guessed I would see Stewart, Vincent, and Gemma later, so I didn't want to leave too soon. When I saw them and Mats arriving, I felt it was a nice morning. After saying hello to them, I went back to Camino in a satisfied mood.

After passing La Portela de Valcarce, I walked alone again. This time I met an Italian guy Luca on the road. We had passed each other in the morning, so we both had an impression of each other. He asked me why I was alone. I said Rice was behind and our destinations were different.

We started talking about why we came to Camino. This was not Luca’s first time. Then he asked me what was my biggest gain so far on Camino. I said that I feel I have a lot more courage and confidence now, and I can enjoy walking in heavy rain or walking long distances. Every day, I find that I can face more challenges and be happy.

Luca was happy that I could have a different mood change in the past few weeks. He said that this is the magic of Camino de Santiago. We learn something along the way every day. He also thanked me for sharing my story. I was very grateful to him for patiently listening to me and giving me many positive responses.

Because Luca wanted to get to O Cebreiro, we had to spend up. As he picked up speed, I shouted his name and took a photo when he turned his back to me. I very like to record everyone’s real reaction in this way.

Finally, I arrived at the albergue in Las Herrerías, a vegan albergue that also has no WiFi. But the Pilgrim dinner was very delicious. I met the Taiwanese girl, Lee, so we sat together. We shared that Taiwan also has Mazu pilgrimage, which is the largest religious activity in Taiwan and many foreigners would like to participate.

In Taiwan, the local people offer food supplies and even massage services on the route, which are all free of charge. After everyone listened to our description, they all said that maybe they should come to Taiwan for the pilgrimage.

No doubt, welcome to Taiwan!

當我在庇護所吃早餐的時候, Brent突然出現在我面前,我非常驚喜,原來我們住在同一家庇護所,我卻沒有發現。

不過這也不能怪我。通常如果庇護所沒有提供朝聖者晚餐,我就會提早吃晚餐,然後回到床上休息。我和很多朝聖之路上的朋友提過,也許自己煮或是出去用餐比較便宜,但是朝聖者晚餐才是大家真的能夠放鬆地坐下來一起認識彼此的最佳時間。回到房間,大家都會很有默契地不再大聲交談,反而是給彼此好好沈澱、休息。

於是,我和Brent 一起開始今天的路程。一開始,我有點跟不上他的腳步,而且他要走的路程比我多很多,我不想拖慢他的速度。後來在路上我經過一個台灣女生Rice,她問我是不是台灣人? Rice是從León加入的朝聖者,所以她還在適應走路對身體帶來的疼痛。

Rice說,她看到我在臉書上分享每天的朝聖日記,所以對我有印象。她在León的時候,還遇見和我一起在大雨中走路的德國人Kirstin, Kirstin 也有向她提到我。

後來我們走到一家咖啡廳,這裡已經有許多朝聖者, Brent 已經和Kathleen(之前都拼成Catherine)坐在一起,他說我怎麼突然走很快。我說因為難得可以用中文聊天,走路速度不自覺也變快了。

因為今天我只需要走20公里,我猜想等一下我就會看見Stewart 、Vincent 和Gemma,所以我並不想要太快離開。當我看見他們3個,還有Mats都到了,我覺得這真是一個愉快的早上。和大家打招呼後,我帶著滿足的心情重新上路。

經過La Portela de Valcarce後,我再次一個人獨走。這次我在路上遇見一個義大利男生Luca,早上我們曾經擦身而過,所以都對彼此有印象。他問我為什麼是一個人,我說Rice在後面,我們的目的地不一樣。

我們開始聊為什麼來走朝聖之路,這不是Luca的第一次。然後他問我在朝聖之路上目前最大的收穫是什麼?我說我覺得自己現在多了很多勇氣和自信,能夠享受在大雨中走路,或是走很遠的路。每一天,我都發現自己可以面對更多挑戰而開心。

Luca很開心我在這幾週就能有不一樣的心境轉變,他說這就朝聖之路神奇的地方。我們每天都可以在這條路上學到一些事情。同時他也很謝謝我願意分享自己的故事。我很謝謝他一路耐心地聽我說話,而且給我很多正面的回應。

因為Luca想要趕到O Cebreiro,於是我們必須說再見,在他加快速度前進時,我大喊他的名字,在他回頭的時刻拍了一張照片。我很喜歡這樣記錄大家最真實自然的一面。

終於,我也抵達Las Herrerías的庇護所,這是一家素食庇護所,同時沒有WiFi。但是朝聖者晚餐非常好吃,我和一位台灣女孩Lee再次住同一家庇護所,所以我們坐在一起。我們分享了台灣也有媽祖遶境,這是台灣最大的宗教活動,許多外國人會特別參與。不一樣的是,我們會有許多當地居民在路邊提過食物補給,甚至按摩服務,這都是免費的。大家聽完我們的描述,都說也許該來台灣走一下朝聖之路。

真的,歡迎到台灣喔!

#跟著唯芯去旅行 #西班牙朝聖之路 #法國之路 #一個人的旅行 #自我對話 #朝聖日記

Camino de Santiago - Day 28📍Ponferrada >📍Columbrianos >📍Cacabelos >📍Villafranca del Bierzo (24.67km) This morning, my bo...
08/10/2024

Camino de Santiago - Day 28
📍Ponferrada >📍Columbrianos >📍Cacabelos >📍Villafranca del Bierzo (24.67km)

This morning, my boots were not completely dry due to the heavy rain the day before, so I had to wear them on Camino.

Although Vincent and Gemma and I stayed in the same albergue, we didn't walk together. On Camino de Santiago, I feel that I have become more courageous and independent. I don’t expect anyone to wait for me.

I thought, today would be the day to walk alone again.

However, after I finished breakfast at Columbianos, I met Mats, a Norwegian I met in Estella. Although we didn’t walk a long way together, we have kept in touch because we follow each other’s Instagram. When I took 1 more day in León, he told me that he had left, so I guessed we would never meet again. As a result, Camino always arranges surprises for me every day.

First time meeting Mats, his leg was still injured, but it looks much better now than the beginning! Later on, we walked together. It was a chance to get to know each other more. What impressed me most was that we kept talking about religious and beliefs. Mats said that he had been exposed to Buddhism before, but later he seemed to have also tried Catholicism and Christianity.

I told Mats that I think Westerners’ belief in Buddhism is completely different from Taiwanese’s belief in Buddhism. I think this is a very interesting discovery. Because most Westerners focus on "meditation", while we Taiwanese hope that after we pass away, the Buddha will lead us to the Land of Bliss.

After listening to my analysis, Mats also found it very interesting. Then he told me that he had been curious to study the most primitive Christianity and Christianity, and finally he found that it was actually very similar to the teachings expounded by Buddhism. He feels that in the end, we are all pursuing the same result.

And I introduced how I got my hiking pole. I won’t bring it back to Taiwan. I will leave it at the end.

Mats suggested that I can write my Instagram account on it and ask the next user to tag me so that I can follow its next journey. I think this idea is great, so I will do it when the time comes.

The entire way, we walked and chatted. Finally we arrived at Villafranca del Bierzo together. Mats hadn't booked any albergue, so he planned to ask on the spot. And I continued walking 1.1 km to reach my albergue.

Today’s albergue, I think, has several advantages:
1. It’s not a bunk bed, which means I don’t have to climb up and down.

2. A hair dryer is provided. Although I bring my own, the albergue's is better.

3. Although there is no washing machine, they can spin the hand-washed clothes for free, so that the clothes can be dried quickly.

4. The kitchen is fully equipped. Although dinner is not provided, we could cook.

今天早上,我的鞋子因為前一天大雨的緣故,並沒有完全乾,我就只能穿著它上路了。

雖然我和Vincent、Gemma住同一家庇護所,但我們也沒有說好要一起出發。在朝聖之路上,我覺得自己變得更加勇敢獨立,不會特別期望別人等待我。所以我想著,今天應該會是自己獨自行走的一天。

不過當我在Columbrianos吃完早餐後,我在路上遇到之前在Estella 認識的挪威人Mats。雖然我們沒有一起走過一段路,但是因為有互相追蹤彼此的IG而保持聯繫。當我在León多停留一天的時候,他告訴我他已經離開,所以我想我們不會再遇見。結果Camino總是會在每天安排驚喜給我。

我第一次認識Mats的時候,他的腿還受著傷,但現在看來比一開始好很多了!後來的路,我們都一起同行,也算是有機會可以多認識對方。令我印象最深刻的,是我們一直在聊宗教信仰。Mats說他之前也有接觸佛教,但他後來其實好像也涉略天主教、基督教。

我告訴Mats,對於西方人信仰佛教這件事,我覺得和台灣人信奉佛教完全不同,我覺得這是一個很有趣的發現。因為西方人大部分都著重在「冥想」上,而我們台灣人則是希望在我們往生後,佛祖會帶領我們去西方極樂世界。

聽完我的分析,Mats也覺得很有趣。然後他告訴我他曾經好奇研究最原始的基督教,最後他發現其實和佛教闡述的教義很像。他覺得原來到最後,我們大家都在追求同樣的結果。

另外一件有趣的事,就是我介紹我的手杖是怎麼得到的,我沒有打算把它帶回台灣,我會把它留在終點。

Mats建議我,到時候在手杖上留下我的IG帳號,請下一個使用者標記我,讓我可以追蹤它接下來的故事。我覺得這個想法很不錯,所以我到時候會這麼做。

我們就這樣,一邊走一邊聊天,一起抵達Villafranca del Bierzo。Mats沒有預訂任何庇護所,所以他打算現場詢問。而我則繼續向前走1.1公里抵達我的庇護所。

今天的庇護所,我覺得有好幾個優點:
1. 不是上下舖,意味著我不需要爬上爬下。

2. 有提供吹風機。雖然我有自備,但庇護所的更好。

3. 雖然沒有洗衣機,但可以免費幫大家把手洗的衣服脫水,這樣衣服很快就可以乾了。

4. 廚房設備完善,雖然沒有提供晚餐但是可以自己煮。

#跟著唯芯去旅行 #西班牙朝聖之路 #法國之路 #一個人的旅行 #自我對話 #朝聖日記

Camino de Santiago - Day 32📍Samos >📍Pena (28.63km)I update my Camino diary slow but today is a special memory for my jou...
07/10/2024

Camino de Santiago - Day 32
📍Samos >📍Pena (28.63km)

I update my Camino diary slow but today is a special memory for my journey!

Now I only have 100km left 🥳🥳🥳

And I was so lucky having the sun when I arrived here.

最近朝聖日記更新得很慢,但今天值得立刻分享。

因為我終於開始要倒數100公里啦~~

而且今天原本在Sarria下雨,但最後的2個小時開始放晴,終於不是穿著雨衣拍照了!

#跟著唯芯去旅行 #西班牙朝聖之路 #法國之路 #一個人的旅行 #自我對話 #朝聖日記

Camino de Santiago - Day 27📍Foncebadón >📍Cruz de Ferro >📍El Acebo >📍Molinaseca >📍Ponferrada (26.78km) When I left the al...
05/10/2024

Camino de Santiago - Day 27
📍Foncebadón >📍Cruz de Ferro >📍El Acebo >📍Molinaseca >📍Ponferrada (26.78km)

When I left the albergue in the morning, it was already raining, so I put on my poncho and started today’s Camino.

Although it was still dark, the headlamp I bought the day before, which made me feel at ease because the route today would be very difficult.

I met Vincent and Gemma on the way soon. Since our pace were similar, we walked together, and not long after we arrived at Cruz de Ferro.

Many pilgrims will bring a stone from home and leave it when they walk to Cruz de Ferro, symbolizing letting go of the past and burdens; meanwhile, praying for a better start. Perhaps the bad weather or it was just dawn, every pilgrim arrived here very quietly, they gently put down the stones and staring at the cross with awe.

I watched Vincent put down his stone. No matter what he prayed for, I hoped that he would stop worrying and that he and Gemma would always be happy. Because I didn’t know about this tradition, I didn’t bring a stone from Taiwan for Camino de Santiago. However, I have a very happy family, my family are healthy, and my life is going smoothly according to my plan. I am happy and satisfied, so I don't have anything to pray for.

After leaving the Cruz de Ferro, we walked in the wind and rain about 2 hours until we saw the town El Acebo. I cheered loudly because I really wanted to go to the toilet, and my reaction made Vincent and Gemma laugh again. Maybe I am used to be my job - tour guide. I sometimes take pictures of Vincent and Gemma on the way, and they were very happy. I hope to capture these moments of their beautiful relationship. Each time I saw their interactions, I always look forward to the day that I can find a partner who can happily explore life with me.

While we were in the café, Gemma asked me if I had seen a parents on Camino with their little daughter and a poodle. I said yes, but I've never spoken to them. Gemma took out a sticker with a girl's face on it. She told me that this 9-year-old girl was their eldest daughter, but she passed away because of cancer. They came to the Camino and hoped to raise funds for the hospital.

Vincent said that when he was at Cruz de Ferro, he also helped the family place a stone and pray for them. Once again I felt very lucky to meet Vincent and Gemma due to their beautiful souls.

Later, I set off first, and soon I met Tim, a Dutch guy. We met in the early morning of the day we left León, but we separated not long after. We walked together for the next 8 km. This time, the way is downhill and full of big rocks. The rain made the road slippery and muddy. I still tried hard not to get too much mud on my boots.

It was interesting to walk with Tim. He asked me if there are any Taiwanese fairy tales that I could share? I couldn’t have any but I told him about the taboos of hiking in the mountains, and then I shared with him real stories about the spirits. Tim also told me a fairy tale that his mother often read a book for him when he was a child. Although the story is very long, I think Tim, who loves fairy tales, has a very pure soul.

Finally, we arrived at Molinaseca, Tim decided to stay here, while I had already had an albergue reservation in Ponferrada. Therefore, I continued on for the rest 7 km.

After I arrived at the albergue and took a shower. Vincent and Gemma also arrived, I was excited so I hugged them happily. At the same time, I met Aitor and Felipe, whom I met on the way to Astorga. Everyone called my name enthusiastically. They all said, "Everyone knows Eva." (That’s not true.)

During dinner time, I sat with a Taiwanese girl - Lee, Vincent, and Gemma. They were curious about our Taiwanese names, so we explained the meaning of our names. Then I mentioned that most babies’ name were given by fortunetellers, in addition , we talked about zodiac signs. Obviously the Westerners at the same table wrre very interested in Taiwanese culture.

Vincent asked us if we believed what the fortunetellers said? We said we will listen but not be superstitious. I explained that I am a Buddhist, although I am not superstitious, but I told stories about Salma and Jason as well as my uncle. I believe that some people can indeed see what may happen to us in the future. These kind reminders may help our lives!

早上離開庇護所的時候,天空已經開始在飄雨,所以我套上雨衣後便開始今天的路程。

雖然出發的時候天還沒亮,但是前一天順利買到頭燈,讓我覺得很安心,因為今天的路將會是非常困難的上下坡。

我在路上很快就遇見Vincent和Gemma,因為我們的速度相仿,所以我們開始一起走,沒多久我們抵達了鐵十字山(Cruz de Ferro)。

許多朝聖者都會從家裡帶一顆石頭,然後走到鐵十字山的時候將它留下,象徵放下過去和煩惱,然後祈禱自己有更好的開始。也許是因為天氣不好,也許因為天剛亮,每一個朝聖者抵達這裡都很安靜,靜靜地放下自己的石頭,充滿敬畏地注視著十字架。

我看著Vincent也放下他的石頭,不管他祈求什麼,我都希望他能不再煩惱,也希望他和Gemma一直都開開心心的。而我本來就不知道有這個傳統,所以我並沒有從台灣帶石頭來朝聖之路。轉念一想,我有很幸福的家庭,家人健康,而且我的生活都按照我的計畫順利進行著,我很快樂且很滿意,所以我也沒有任何需要祈求的事。

離開鐵十字架山,我們大概在風雨中走了2小時才看見小鎮El Acebo。我大聲歡呼,因為我非常想要上廁所,Vincent和Gemma常常被我的反應逗笑。也許是職業病發,我在路上會幫他們拍照,他們很開心,而我想留下的,是他們這樣美好關係的畫面。每當我看著他們互動,我總是憧憬自己也有一天可以找到能夠和我一起開心探索生活的另一半。

當我們在咖啡廳的時候,Gemma問我有沒有在路上看到一對父母帶著一個小女孩和一隻貴賓狗走朝聖之路?我說有,但我從來沒有和他們說過話。Gemma拿出一張有女孩頭像的貼紙,她告訴我,這個9歲女孩是他們的大女兒,但因為癌症過世了,他們來走朝聖之路,也希望可以為醫院募款。

Vincent 說,剛剛在鐵十字山,他也幫著一家人放了一個石頭,並為他們祈禱。我再一次覺得自己很幸運可以認識Vincent 和Gemma,2個擁有美麗靈魂的人。

後來我先出發,沒多久我又遇見了荷蘭人Tim,我們在離開León的那天清晨認識,但沒多久就各自分開了。接下來的8公里,我們一起走,這一段路都是下坡,而且是都是大石頭,雨天讓路面溼滑泥濘,我還是努力不讓自己的鞋子沾到太多泥土。

和Tim一起走的這段路很有趣,他問我有沒有什麼台灣的童話故事可以分享?我突然想不到,於是我告訴他在台灣山裡行走的禁忌,然後開始和他分享有關靈魂的真實故事。Tim後來也告訴我一個他媽媽在他小時候常常講給他聽的童話故事,故事雖然很長,但是我覺得喜歡童話故事的Tim有一個非常純真的靈魂。

當我們終於抵達Molinaseca,Tim決定在此住宿,而我已經在Ponferrada 訂好住宿只能繼續往剩下的7公里前進。

有趣的是,我到Ponferrada 的庇護所後,Vincent 和Gemma也抵達了,我開心地抱著他們。同時還遇到在Astorga路上認識的Aitor 和Felipe,大家都很熱情地喊著我的名字,反倒把庇護所的主人看懵了。他們都說「每個人都認識Eva。」(當然不是真的)

晚餐時間,我和一位台灣女孩Lee還有Vincent、Gemma坐在一塊,他們很好奇我們的台灣的名字,於是我們解釋了自己名字的涵義。然後我還提到大部分的小孩子都是找算命師取名,還有提到生肖。顯然同桌的西方人對於台灣文化非常感興趣。

Vincent 問我和Lee,是否相信算命師的話?我們說我們會聽但不迷信。我解釋自己是佛教徒,雖然不迷信,但我說了有關Salma和Jason,以及小舅舅的故事,所以我相信有一些人的確可以看見我們未來可能發生的事情,這些善意的提醒,也許的確會改變我們的生命吧!

#跟著唯芯去旅行 #西班牙朝聖之路 #法國之路 #一個人的旅行 #自我對話

Camino de Santiago - Day 26📍Astorga >📍Murias de Rechivaldo > 📍Santa Catalina de Somoza >📍Rabanal del Camino > 📍Foncebadó...
04/10/2024

Camino de Santiago - Day 26
📍Astorga >📍Murias de Rechivaldo > 📍Santa Catalina de Somoza >📍Rabanal del Camino > 📍Foncebadón (25.19km)

Now the sunrise in Spain happens after 8 am, so when I leave the albergue in the morning, it’s still dark.

When I was about to leave the albergue, I found I had lost my headlamp! But since I had to walk 25 km today, I didn’t have time to stop and worry about it. Anyway, if I lose it, I can just buy another one, so I hit the road with the mission of “buying a headlamp today”.

On the way, I also rethought about when and where I lost it, and then I guessed that the most likely possibility was that when I almost arrived in Astorga, I wanted to eat chocolate, so when I took out the chocolate from the backpack side pocket, and the headlamp fell out, but I didn’t notice.

This mistake let me learned the lesson: Don’t stuff important things randomly, but keep them securely.

While I was having breakfast at Murias de Rechivaldo, I received a message from Dalana with a photo of a guy on Camino currently, he tries to sexually assaulting young female pilgrims. Dalana told me be careful of this guy on the way.

I thanked Dalana for the reminder. Then I saw the Korean girl who stayed in the same albergue last night was also eating breakfast, so I showed her the message and told her to be careful about this man on the way.

After leaving Murias de Rechivaldo, Stewart and I walked together again. He had not booked any albergue, so he decided to walk in the municipal albergue in Rabanal del Camino. When we were halfway there and I saw a stamp stop where I could get a wax seal stamp, I told him I wanted one so we parted again. Later, I saw Stewart updated a new photo of him and the police on Instagram. He told me that I could also get a stamp there, so I was looking forward to meeting the Spanish police.

Finally, I met the two police officers, Ivan and Natalea. I immediately said, "My friend said I can get a stamp from you." Then Natalea asked me if I was walking the Camino alone? I said yes. She gave me a card with an emergency number on it and told me to call if I needed help. Finally, Ivan asked me if I wanted to take a photo with them? I said of course.

After parting with Stewart, I walked the rest 13 km alone. When I passed Rabanal del Camino, I realized that the way to Foncebadón was an uphill trail. Although the slope was gentle, there were many rocks, and the forecast showed it would be rainy tomorrow. I sent a message to Stewart, reminding him to be careful when setting off tomorrow morning.

As I kept walking the rest 5 km, I didn’t forget to appreciate the scenery. I was very happy that I decided to make Foncebadón my destination of the day, so I could still see this scenery during the day. If I had chosen to set off from Rabanal del Camino the next morning, I would have missed it before dawn.

But about 40 minutes before I arrived in Foncebadón, it started raining! Now that the rain was no longer affecting my mood, I quickly put on my poncho and continued on until I reached the albergue, where I cheered a little.

But the happiest thing was that I didn’t see any place selling headlamps along the way till I arrived the albergue.

I SAW IT!!!

I immediately decided to buy it because I needed a headlamp for the next morning. When the albergue staff, Lena, told me this was the last one, I felt lucky! I felt as if the Camino had prepared today's reward for me.

現在西班牙的日出都在8點以後,所以我每天出發的時候,天還是暗的。

就在我準備要從庇護所離開的時候,我發現我的頭燈弄丟了!但因為今天要走25公里的路,我沒有時間停下來為這件事懊惱,反正弄丟了再買一個就好,於是我帶著「今天要買頭燈」的任務上路。

在路上,我也仔細回想自己是在什麼時候弄丟的,後來覺得最大的可能性,是我快要走到Astorga的時候,我突然想吃巧克力,於是在拿出巧克力的當下掉出去,但我沒有發現。

這件事讓我學到:重要的東西不要亂塞,要確實收好。

當我在Murias de Rechivaldo吃早餐的時候,我收到Dalana的訊息,訊息裡有一個男生的照片,要在朝聖之路上的年輕女生注意他,因為他嘗試侵犯年輕的女朝聖者。

我回覆Dalana,謝謝她的提醒。然後我看見和我住同一家庇護所的韓國女生也在吃早餐,於是我拿著訊息告訴她,路上要小心這個男子。

從Murias de Rechivaldo離開後,我和Stewart 再次一起走路,他沒有訂任何庇護所,所以預計在Rabanal del Camino的公立庇護所直接詢問。當我們走到半路,我看到可以蓋封蠟印章的點,我告訴他我想要留一個做紀念,於是我們再度分開。後來我看到Stewart 的IG限動更新一張他與警察的合照,他告訴我在這裡也可以蓋印章,於是我很期待遇到西班牙警察。

終於,我遇到了那2位警察,Ivan和Natalea,我立刻說「我朋友說可以找你們蓋印章。」接著Natalea問我是不是自己獨自走朝聖之路,我說是。她給了我一張小卡片,上面有緊急電話,告訴我如果遇到狀況要協助可以打電話。最後Ivan主動問我要不要合照,我說當然好。

在和Stewart 分開後的13公里路程,我都是自己一個人走。當我經過Rabanal del Camino後,我發現前往Foncebadón 的路都是爬升的山路,坡度雖然平緩,但是很多石頭路,加上明天天氣預報會下雨,所以我傳訊息告訴Stewart 明天早上出發要注意安全。

我一邊與剩下的5公里奮戰,同時沒有忘記欣賞周圍的景色。我很開心自己當初決定把Foncebadón當目的地,所以我還能夠在白天看到這樣的風景。如果我選擇隔天早上才從Rabanal del Camino出發,一定會因為天還沒亮就錯過了。

不過就在我接近Foncebadón 的前40分鐘左右,開始下雨了!現在我已經不再被雨水影響心情,我快速套上雨衣後繼續前進,直到抵達庇護所,我小小地歡呼了一下。

令我最開心的是,我一路都沒有看到有販賣頭燈的地方,但當我踏進庇護所的時候,我。看。到。了。我立刻決定買下它,因為我隔天早上很需要頭燈。就在庇護所人員告訴我,這是最後一個的時候,我感覺自己很幸運,好像Camino已經為我準備好今天的獎賞一樣。

#跟著唯芯去旅行 #西班牙朝聖之路 #法國之路 #一個人的旅行 #自我對話

Camino de Santiago - Day 25📍San Martín del Camino >📍Hospital de Órbigo >📍Astorga (23km) The way from San Martín del Cami...
03/10/2024

Camino de Santiago - Day 25
📍San Martín del Camino >📍Hospital de Órbigo >📍Astorga (23km)

The way from San Martín del Camino to Puente de Órbigo is next to the road, and I didn’t leave the albergue until about 7:30am, so this 7.3km stretch in the morning was particularly noisy. The bad thing was that the tops of my left feet started in pain while I was approaching the albergue the day before, so I walked slowly.

Because I walked slowly, I saw the red sky illuminated by the sun before sunrise, I guessed the weather will be very warm today.

When I arrived at Puente de Órbigo, Brent and Catherine had almost finished breakfast. They walked really fast, but Brent had already told me before setting off that he had to hurry to the first café at the first stop because he was very hungry.

After breakfast, we moved forward again, and just as we were passing the bridge, there was a group of pilgrims singing on the bridge. I immediately recorded it. When I passed by them, I gave them a thumbs up 👍 and finally said loudly "Buen Camino!"

Catherine was shocked because she didn’t except I would do that , she said, "You are too cute!"

It seems like every time I say “Buen Camin” or say “Buenos días” to people I pass by, my Camino friends would always tell me I am very cute.

Later, I couldn't keep up with their walking speed, so I back to walking slowly by myself again.

When passing through a forest, I took a video. When I turned around, 2 Spanish were behind me, so I said Buen Camino again. Then we walked together for about 5 minutes. Their names are Alto and Felipe. And they know I am Eva who is made in Taiwan.

I also met Benjamin who is from Belgium. We met about 2 weeks ago. The last time we met seemed to be on the way to Burgos, but we had never walked together, so I was very happy to meet him again. This time we had time to understand each other's reasons for Camino de Santiago. Benjamin said he worked at a scaffolding company, but he no longer found the job interesting, so he quit to give himself some time to think about what he wants to do. We walked together for about 1 hour.

There is a rest stop (El Jardín de Alma) 6 km away from Astorga. The owner Alma here prepares a variety of food, fresh fruits, biscuits, bread, cheese, coffee, juice, tea... these are all provided free of charge, but pilgrims are free to make donations. Whenever the food is running low, Alma will rush to replenish it.

As I approached while humming, I saw Brent, who was easily identifiable because he is tall. Then when I arrived, I saw Vincent and Gemma! So I greeted them warmly. We would stay at the same albergue(My Way) again today. Vincent told me that there is an old song called My Way and he highly recommended that I search for it and listen to it. Except Buen Camino, pilgrims also often say "See you on the way." So when they were leaving, they also said to me "See you on My Way!"

After resting, I set out again, and then I saw the lookout that Stewart shared the day before. At first I was debating whether to climb up, but soon I decided to just go for it! But the observation deck is quite high, I was very nervous when climbing. After all, falling is not fun. When I climbed up, I waved and said "Buen Camino!" to people passing below me, but I couldn't hear anyone respond.

After finally walking to Astorga, I took a shower and went to a supermarket to buy things. Usually when I get to the albergue I don't want to move around anymore unless I have to go out to buy something or eat. And while I was eating chips and walking towards the shelter, I suddenly heard someone calling my name. It turned out the 2 Spanish I met on the road today.

I walked up to them and said, "I think I need to take a photo with you as a memory."

To be honest, as I have been on my camino, I am often stopped by these kind people. Everyone makes me really feel that I am not alone.

On day 25, in Astorga, I had walked 508.5 kilometers.

從San Martín del Camino 到Puente de Órbigo的路剛好在道路旁,加上我大約7:30才離開庇護所,所以早上的這段大約7.3公里的路顯得特別吵雜,不妙的是我的左腳腳背在前一天快要抵達目的地的時候開始感覺不對勁,所以我走得很慢。

但也因為慢慢走,所以看到日出前被陽光映照得通紅的天空,想必今天天氣會很溫暖。

我到Puente de Órbigo 的時候,Brent和Catherine 已經快要吃完早餐了,不得不說他們真的走得很快,但Brent出發前已經告訴我他要趕快走到第一站的第一家咖啡店,因為他很餓。

結束早餐,我們再度前進,然後就在經過橋的時候,前方有一群朝聖者正在合唱,於是我立刻拿起手機錄影。經過他們的時候,我向他們比了讚👍,最後大聲地說「Buen Camino!」

Catherine 先是嚇了一跳,隨即又說「妳也太可愛了吧!」

好像每一次我對經過的人說Buen Camino 或打招呼,都會獲得「妳怎麼這麼可愛」這樣的評語。

後來我又開始追不上他們的走路速度了,於是我再度回到自己一個人慢慢走。

在經過一片樹林的時候,我拿著手機錄影,當我轉身的時候,後面剛好有2個西班牙人,我又再度說了一句Buen Camino。然後我們大概一起走了5分鐘,知道他們一個好像叫Alto,一個叫Felipe。然後他們知道我是Made in Taiwan 的Eva。

接著我又在路上遇到比利時的Benjamin,我們大概在2週前就認識,最後一次見面好像在往Burgos的路上,但我們從來沒有一起走路過,所以我很開心再遇見他。這一次我們有多一點的時間了解彼此為什麼踏上朝聖之路。Benjamin 說他之前在鷹架公司上班,但他現在覺得那份工作不再有趣,所以他辭職,給自己一點時間思考自己想要做的事。我們大概一起走了1個多小時才各自分開走。

在距離Astorga的6公里,有一個休息站(El Jardín de Alma),這裡的主人Alma準備了各式各樣的食物,新鮮的水果、餅乾、麵包、起司、咖啡、果汁、茶…這些都是免費提供的,但是朝聖者可以自由捐獻。每當食物快光盤的時候,Alma就會趕快補上。

當我一邊哼著歌一邊接近的時候,我看到了Brent,因為很高很好辨認。然後我抵達的時候,我看到Vincent和Gemma!於是我又很熱情地向他們打招呼。我們今天又再度住同一家庇護所(My Way ),Vincent告訴喔有一首老歌叫My Way,極力推薦我搜尋來聽。除了Buen Camino,朝聖者也常說「我們路上見!(See you on the way.)」所以他們要離開的時候,也對我說「我們My Way見!」

休息過後,我也再度出發,然後我看見了前一天Stewart 分享的瞭望台。一開始我還在思考要不要爬上去,但很快我就決定直接去做吧!不過因為瞭望台蠻高的,我在攀爬的時候也是很緊張,畢竟掉下去可不是一件好玩的事。當我爬上去後,我揮舞著手跟下面經過的人說「Buen Camino!」但我聽不到有沒有人回應我。

好不容易走到Astorga,我洗完澡後就去附近超市買東西。通常我到了庇護所就不想再到處走動,除非必須出去購買東西或吃東西。而正當我一邊吃著洋芋片,一邊往庇護所方向走的時候,我突然聽到有人喊我的名字。原來是今天在路上遇到的西班牙人。

於是我走向他們說:「我覺得我需要和你們合照做紀念。」

說真的,朝聖之路走到現在,我常常在半路被叫住,大家都讓我真的感受到我不是自己一個人。

第25天,在Astorga,我已經走了508.5公里。

#跟著唯芯去旅行 #西班牙朝聖之路 #法國之路 #一個人的旅行 #自我對話

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