Siena & Italy Tours with Anna

05/01/2025

Correte - run! - to the Met to see “Siena: The Rise of Painting, 1300-1350”, only on through 26 January (or plan to get to the National Gallery in London between 8 March and 22 June)!! 🤍🖤🤍🖤This is a beautifully curated exhibition with dramatic lighting and informative explanations of why Siena truly was an artistic center in the first half of the 14th c. The Big Four (as I like to call them) are the stars: Duccio di Buoninsegna, Simone Martini, and the brothers Lorenzetti, Ambrogio and Pietro. Other artists in their circle are also included, as are some French works which may have inspired them. The best part was seeing how interested all of the visitors were, patiently waiting their turn to get close to the paintings to admire the exquisite details. Had some lovely chats about the art, iconography, even the medieval ivory trade, and, ovviamente, about Siena, my home for more than a decade. What a joy to see so many Sienese works together, some of which I had never seen in person (including a few parts of Duccio’s Maestà; one of the predella panels even lives in Fort Worth, Texas, where I was born!). The final painting was a fantastic surprise, as it is one of my all-time favourites (and I had forgotten it would be here!): Simone Martini’s “Christ Discovered in the Temple”. A selfie with this just wouldn’t do, so a lovely mother of an adolescent boy offered to take a picture, making sure I emulated that teenage angst just right. Was really hoping for an exhibition catalogue, but alas…they did, however, have Rick Steve’s guidebook there! Hope to see you in Siena soon so we can admire more of the city’s 14th-c splendour together! 🤍🖤🤍🖤

Comune di Siena Pinacoteca Nazionale di Siena Siena News Radio Siena Tv Rick Steves' Europe

25/12/2024

Happiest of holidays to you all! Thank you for being a part of my life; I am so very very grateful ❣️

18/12/2024

Met a man on a horse in Florence yesterday, a man and a horse I have seen multiple times over the years. Plucked up the courage to introduce myself, and we had a lovely chat. Zoltan (great name!) then invited me to take a little ride on Fulmine (Lighting ⚡️)…well, how could I refuse?!

11/11/2024

Very rarely (never?!) do I post anything about modern art, because, truth be told, I am completely out of my comfort zone after 1650. But there is a wonderful exhibition at Santa Maria della Scala in Siena (through 30 March) featuring Italian art from two important collections (Monte dei Paschi and Cesare Brandi) spanning the years 1915 to 1960. We were lucky enough to walk through with the curator, Prof. Quattrocchi, who explained how the collectors chose the works and how they reflected particular periods in 20th-c Italian history. I did recognize a few of the names, but I shall just let the works speak for themselves in these pictures.

03/11/2024

I’ve been a bit quiet on the socials lately, but that’s because all of my energy has been dedicated to students and guests! Nothing like a bit of countryside and friends to help reset 🥰

31/10/2024

A huge GRAZIE to my “top fans”! 💎 Thank you for your continued support over the years!! 💎

Bob Kane, Caterina Balletti, Stefano Pastorelli, Dave Gartley, Kathy Saunders, Gayle Jensen, Ross Lindsay Jacobsmeyer

27/10/2024

If you'd like to see LUPA win the August 2024 Palio (with commentary by yours truly), click on this link! It's a long "mossa" (time in between the ropes), so just go to the 46-min mark for the race and keep an eye on the 🐺🤍🖤🧡!

the Palio of August 16, 2024 won by the Contrada della Lupa

29/09/2024

Winning isn’t everything, but it sure is fun!
🖤🤍🧡🐺🧡🤍🖤

14/09/2024

I’m still trying to figure out that work-life balance, but I do have two days off in September. 😅 But what better way to spend one of those free days than by trying a whole bunch of organic wines in Panzano in Chianti?! 🍇Silly me only got a picture with my pink G&T (I mean, doesn’t everyone start a wine day with gin?). 🍸 Also met the most famous butcher in the land, Dario Cecchini, although was a bit too star-struck to ask for a photo. 🥩Did manage to get one of Elliot sipping on some vino though! 🍷

12/09/2024

It’s September, so that means schiacciata all’uva in Florence! This one was superb, made by the granddaughter of the owner (Sig. Enzo). I shouldn’t have, but how could I resist?

04/09/2024

The new year always starts in September, and so far, it’s off to a good start! Here’s to a great semester of inquisitive students and new friends on tour!

31/08/2024

Pros and cons about travelling to Florence at the end of August?
- CON: it’s HOT. Like really hot. 🥵 Get a fan for everyone and stay hydrated! 🪭💧
- PRO: because of the heat, it’s actually less crowded! Museums feel more spacious, and most have A/C now too (although not at the same freezing temperatures most Americans are used to, but when it’s 95° outside, it helps!). 🖼️
- PRO: It’s Florence - it’s always gorgeous. ⚜️
- PRO TIP 1: get an early start, then have a rest after lunch for a late afternoon museum visit and shopping. The evenings are a bit cooler, and there is nothing like sipping on an aperitivo as you watch the sky turn that brilliant - almost electric - deep blue that I swear only exists in Tuscany. 💙
- PRO TIP 2: If you want to explore but simply don’t have the energy, the new thing is a golf cart tour. You’ll see them parked in every piazza, so just go up and ask if they’re available! Prices average €45-60 per person, and they’ll drive you around the city center and even up to Piazzale Michelangelo. I think this is a great way to get a feel for this city whilst saving your strength (and you might even get some wind in your hair!).🛺💨

PS, I should have taken pictures inside the Uffizi - I couldn’t believe how much space we had in some of the rooms!

25/08/2024

Palio Reflection, 17 August 2024. È LUPA!! 🐺🤍🖤🧡

Oh so many thoughts, because WHAT A PALIO. Benitos (C7) was one of four debut horses, and Dino Pes (Velluto) was the oldest jockey in the Piazza, with only 9 Palii to his name (no victories). Absolutely no one had favoured the Lupa to win; all talk in the days preceding the Palio had been about Istrice (Tittia on Viso d’Angelo), Oca (Brigante on Ares Elce), Valdimontone (Scompiglio on Veranu), and Selva (debut jockey, Virgola, on July’s winner, Tabacco). Indeed, it was Istrice’s Palio to lose, and so people assumed Lupa’s strategy was purely defensive as the outcome appeared inevitable. Velluto hadn’t run in Siena since 2017, and before that, 2004, although he has had tremendous success in other races throughout Italy. He skillfully antagonized rival Istrice in between the starting ropes, remaining admirably calm the entire time. Tittia was visibly frustrated throughout the approximately 45 minutes of the mossa (start), and could be seen yelling at Velluto on a number of occasions (quite vehemently, in the Sardinian dialect). There was another part to Lupa’s strategy, however: to WIN (which, ovviamente, is the best way to ensure that your rival loses).

The Captains have tactics for almost every conceivable sequence of their Contrada within the “canapi” (starting ropes). The order is determined by lot and only revealed after the Contrade have arrived at the mossa. Fate was enjoying herself when she determined this lineup, placing Istrice in position 2, then rival Lupa next to it in 3rd. Valdimontone was 8th, with its rival, Nicchio, 9th. Nicchio kept pressing up against Valdimontone, forcing all the horses down the line, leaving Istrice, Onda, and Leocorno often without enough space to join the row. Civetta was keeping an eye on many things outside the ropes from the rincorsa (run-up), as its rival, Leocorno, attempted to stay in the 6th position. The mossiere (starter) was so aggravated by Nicchio that he actually shouted at its jockey on multiple occasions. When Civetta did finally go (the mossiere had prohibited it from even attempting to start quite a few times), Lupa left the ropes first and never lost the lead. Benitos was stronger and faster than anyone (except those in the Lupa) had realized, and Velluto (“Velvet”) ran a beautifully smooth, poetic, masterful race. Lupa triumphed, and everyone else lost. However, there were some other Contrade that celebrated the evening of the 17th because, even if they didn’t get to take home the Drappellone (silk banner), their rivals didn’t either; this, too, is Palio!

Compliments to the Contrada della Lupa for a brilliant Palio, one that had all of the elements to make it truly one for the history books.

There are many more things that could be said, but for now, I urge you to watch this Palio (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-d4Ea3aF6h0), an incredible 3 laps around the most glorious piazza in the world. Evviva il Palio, evviva Siena!

17/08/2024

È LUPA!!!!!!!!!

17/08/2024

17 August: It is humid in Siena and the skies are threatening…but the plan is to try to run the Palio dell’Assunta at 19.00 this evening, and so, we wait!

Has this ever happened before? Of course; rain delays have occurred throughout Palio history; what makes 2024 unique is that BOTH Palii were affected by adverse weather conditions. Last night, the Corteo Storico (Historical Procession) wound its way through the city streets to the Duomo, down Casato and into the Piazza, but only 4 Contrade were able to enter because the rain started falling too heavily. Not only did the participants risk slipping on the muddy track, but also the beautiful uniforms could have been ruined. Our hearts go out to those who have patiently waited their turn “to dress” for the Piazza, and to the drummers and flag wavers who have been training for years to finally enter into the Piazza wearing their colours.

The dirt track has been monitored closely since this morning and adjustments have been made so that it will be ready at 19.00, if the weather cooperates. A light rain might not be problematic, but anything more than that will mean we’ll certainly have to postpone once more. Unfortunately, the forecast is worse for tomorrow.

You might be thinking that rescheduling the Palio isn’t that big of a deal, especially since it’s a weekend, but when you think of all of the people (and horses!) involved, it really is a logistical nightmare. The horses are being looked after in their Contrada stables now, although some have more space than others. A few Contrade have gardens, for example, but others don’t have any green space at all. The horses truly are the most precious elements of the Palio, so rest assured that all is being done to make sure they are comfortable and content. ❣️🐴❣️

16/08/2024

RAIN DELAY. So, this has happened again; as far as I know, it’s the first time that the Palio has been delayed in both July AND August of the same year (you’ll recall that we ran on the 4th of July rather than 2nd this year!). And no, the forecast isn’t looking great for tomorrow OR for Sunday, and so, we must just wait. They say there are 3 areas where Fate plays her hand in Siena: 1) the drawing of the 3 Contrade to run in each Palio (7 run by right, having been excluded from the previous year’s Palio, and so 3 are drawn by lot); 2) the assignment of the horses (also drawn by lot, 3 days before each Palio); 3) the lineup in between the starting ropes. But we must add 4) Mother Nature. Let us hope she is feeling kind tomorrow!

16/08/2024

16 August: PALIO DELL’ASSUNTA. Today is the day! The 10 competing Contrade, horses, and jockeys are:

- Selva 🌳🦏 • Andrea Sanna (Virgola) • Tabacco
- Lupa 🐺 • Dino Pes (Velluto) • Benitos
- Valdimontone 🐏 • Jonatan Bartoletti (Scompiglio) • Veranu
- Onda 🐬 • Sebastiano Murtas (Grandine) • Canarinu
- Nicchio 🐚 • Federico Guglielmi (Tamurè) • Brivido Sardo
- Leocorno 🦄 • Elias Mannucci (Turbine) • Zentiles
- Civetta 🦉 • Enrico Bruschelli (Bellocchio) • Zenis
- Chiocciola 🐌 • Giuseppe Zedde (Gingillo) • Comancio
- Oca 🪿 • Carlo Sanna (Brigante) • Ares Elce
- Istrice 🦔 • Giovanni Atzeni (Tittia) • Viso d’Angelo

You can watch LIVE (with English commentary) here:
- (This is a placeholder - hoping to get the link before we air!)

And in italiano here:
- Siena: https://www.radiosienatv.it/radio-siena-diretta-tv/
- Siena: https://canale3.tv/home/
- Italy (national broadcast): https://www.la7.it

Today’s timings:
- 7.45: la Messa del Fantino (Mass for the Jockeys), Ca****la di Piazza
- 9.00: “Provaccia”, 6th and final trial
- Soon afterwards: Segnatura del Fantino (official registering of the jockeys)
- ~14.00: Benedizione del Cavallo (blessing of the horses in the Contrada churches)
- Corteo Storico (Historical Procession) winds its way through the city streets, stopping at Piazza Salimbeni, the Loggia di Mercanzia, and the Duomo.
- 16.45: Carabinieri enter the Piazza del Campo
- 16.50: Corteo Storico enters the Piazza (14 groups, over 700 participants, plus the Carroccio - war cart - with the Drappellone, the silk banner awarded to the winner).
- 19.00: horses and jockeys leave the Entrone (courtyard of the Palazzo Pubblico, Town Hall) and make their way to the canapi (starting ropes). The order will be determined by lot and announced, and then, SI CORRE!
- All night: the victorious Contrada will celebrate!

15/08/2024

15 August: In other parts of Italy, today is Ferragosto, the height of the summer holiday (named for the Emperor Augustus in the 1st century BCE), but it is also a very holy day, as this is when the Virgin Mary was taken body and soul into heaven. Indeed, the Palio of Siena is run in honour of la Madonna Assunta, and today a solemn mass was held in the Cathedral (also dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin).

After the mass, a special ceremony took place. The Mangia award (named for our tower, not for eating!) is given to outstanding Sienese citizens (in 2022, for example, it went to Olympic fencing champion - and member of the Chiocciola - Alice Volpi). This year, it was given to Luca Venturi, founder of the Siena Awards, a prestigious international photography exhibition, now in its 10th year. Commendation medals were also presented to the Associazione la Diana (instituted 30 years ago to safeguard the 25km of underground aqueducts known as the “bottini”), Paolo Goretti of the Aquila, and Emilio Frati. Emilio is from Siena, but his family moved to Carrara when he was a child, and there, he learned how to work in marble. After years of experience (including a prestigious position for the Opificio delle Pietre Dure in Florence), he returned to Siena, and thank goodness! Were it not for him who knows what state our incredible Duomo would be in (he worked on restoring it for over 30 years). When you come to Siena, be sure to pop by his studio, just next to the Synagogue!

Tonight, thousands of contradaioli will dine outside, and speeches by the presidents, captains, and jockeys will be made. Tomorrow morning, the final trial, and then, we wait. The horses will be blessed in their respective oratories (Contrada churches), the Historical Procession will wind its way through the city and into the Piazza del Campo. At 19:00, the jockeys will come onto the track, and then…and then!

PS, there should be a link for the English commentary, so I shall post it on my website when I have it!