
08/02/2025
Snow and ice as far as the eye can see - I knew Greenland only from hours flying across this seemingly endless white desert. Finally, the moment came and I touched down in Nuuk, the capital, populated by a mere 20,000 souls.
80 % of Greenland’s population are Inuit. Immediately curiosity and the desire to immerse in a way of life that thrives in the challenging conditions of the Arctic Ocean kick in.
A hike at -20º C and biting cold winds blowing down from the ice field give us a first taste of what the elements have on offer here. But the beauty and solitude of the mountainous landscape offsets all harshness.
Next stop on our itinerary is Ilulisat 500 km further North - and at least 10 degrees colder. We set out by boat, crushing through Sea ice that built up over the past days, and head towards the gigantic ice bergs that are stuck in Disko Bay, shining in all imaginable hues of blue.
Greenlanders are welcoming people. They know it is cold outside, so their house is always open for friends and strangers alike. For dinner, we are invited to a private home where we are served local dishes from muskox and reindeer to Seafood delicacies like stone crab and whale meat.
Fishing and hunting remain the only way to survive where nothing grows, and the need for vitamins is covered by the skin of Beluga whales rather than vegetables or fruit.
In a land that has 50 different words for snow and ice, dog sleds often are the only means of transportation and of getting food on the table. For the experience, we jumped into seal skins and spent the morning with local mushers and their fabulous Greenlandic dogs.
Our Arctic winter adventure was crowned by a display of Northern lights in the crystal clear (and at -32º C crispy cold) night sky.
When the time came, we stepped outside in wonderment before returning to the comfort of our glass villas and continue watching the spectacle from inside.
Greenland is one of the last truly wild and remote places. What remains after this first encounter with total and increasingly fragile beauty: the yearning to return - as soon and often as possible…