I Love Walking in France

08/12/2023

Walking l’Échappée Jurassienne
Day 4 – Salins-les-Bains to Arbois (29 August 2018)

The village of Pretin

07/12/2023

Walking from Martel to Rocamadour along the GR46 – GR652

Porte Basse in Rocamadour marks the ancient gate out of the village and, for early pilgrims, the continuation of the journey through France. The path now follows the GR652, joining the GR65 Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy at La Romieu where it continues on to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and then to Santiago in Spain.
This marks the end of this beautiful walk, but I am looking forward to returning in 2024. For a recap or more details on planning the walk, visit https://ilovewalkinginfrance.com/martel-to-rocamadour/

05/12/2023

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy
Le Puy-en-Velay (28 & 29 May 2022)

The start of the journey. For those heading to Santiago in Spain, there are 1,522 kilometres (950 miles) ahead. For my walk following the Célé variante to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, there are 42 glorious days over 760 kilometres (476 miles) ahead.

01/12/2023

Walking l’Échappée Jurassienne
Day 4 – Salins-les-Bains to Arbois (29 August 2018)

Somewhere between Salins-les-Bains and Pretin.

30/11/2023

Walking from Martel to Rocamadour along the GR46 – GR652

Continuing along the main street of Rocamadour towards the edge of town.

29/11/2023

The final walk of Season 7 Mon GR Préférée follows the GR de Pays Villages Perchés de Haute Siagne – a 50-kilometre loop starting and finishing in Seillans in the south-east corner of France.

This 3-day walk visits the perched villages of Fayence, Callian, Saint-Cèzaire-sur-Siagne and Mons. Needless to say, this involves a few climbs up a rocky ridge but the villages and views are well worth the effort!

1er épisode de la saison 7 de Mon GR® préféré, Nos GR® secrets, la FFRandonnée vous conduit sur le GR® de Pays - Villages Perchés de Haute Siagne (Var). Cet ...

28/11/2023

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy
Le Puy-en-Velay (28 & 29 May 2022)

Behind the cathedra is the Café des Pélerins. Everyone is welcome, those walking and those just visiting.
Next door to the café is the Camino Musée. When I visited last year, the exhibition highlighted the thoughts and experiences of those who have walked before (in this case, mostly monks and priests) sharing their reflections and learnings on the journey.

28/11/2023

Day 7 of Season 7 Mon GR Préférée follows part of the GR 440 Tour de la Montagne Limousine – a 203-kilometre loop which starts and finishes in Bonnefond.

This 4-day circular walk starts in Meymac in the Corrèze region of central France and follows part of a larger loop before returning along a variante. It passes through idyllic French countryside of forests and farmland dotted with small rivers and streams, climbing gentle hills and crossing verdant valleys.

6ème épisode de la saison 7 de Mon GR® préféré, Nos GR® secrets, la FFRandonnée vous conduit sur le GR® 440 - Le Grand Tour de la montagne Limousine (Corrèze...

27/11/2023

Day 6 of Season 7 Mon GR Préférée follows the GR 367 Sentier Cathare – a 250-kilometre path which starts in Port-la-Nouvelle and finishes in Foix.

This 4-day circular walk starts and ends in Quillan (roughly 50 kilometres south of Carcassonne) and passes through an area steeped in stories of the Knights Templar. The countryside is rugged and mountainous and there seems to be some challenging climbs – but the reward is some truly stunning views!

2ème épisode de la saison 7 de Mon GR® préféré, Nos GR® secrets, la FFRandonnée vous conduit sur le GR® 367 - Sentier Cathare (Aude). Cet itinéraire de Grand...

26/11/2023

Walking the GR 70 Chemin de Stevenson
Day 13 – Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte (13 September 2016)

A beautiful stone wall provides a safe edge and erosion control along many kilometres of the southern section of the path. It is hard though to look at this and not see the months of back-breaking work required to build it.

26/11/2023

Day 5 of Season 7 Mon GR Préférée follows the GR 4 de l’Atlantique à la Méditerranée – 1470 kilometres from Royan to Grasse

This 5-day section stays on the western, or Atlantic Ocean, end of the trail starting in Saintes and finishing in Royan. I’ll admit this one is not my cup of tea. It passes through miles and miles of flat, open wetlands with not a lot of changes to the scenery. But it may be yours! Take a look and let me know.

8ème épisode de la saison 7 de Mon GR® préféré, Nos GR® secrets, la FFRandonnée vous conduit sur le GR® 4 de l’Atlantique à la Méditerranée (Charente-Maritim...

25/11/2023

Martel to Rocamadour

The eight-day walk from Martel to Rocamadour weaves through 127 kilometres (80 miles) of glorious French countryside, visiting fairy-tale castles, underground caves and passing through nine of France’s most beautiful villages.
It’s a walk best taken slowly; an experience to be savoured and enjoyed. My suggested itinerary leaves plenty of time to lean against the stone walls of an ancient chapel and ponder the hands that built them a thousand years earlier; to look out through the observation slits in a medieval tower and imagine invading armies charging up the hill...
You’ll find my suggested itinerary and much more at https://ilovewalkinginfrance.com/martel-to-rocamadour/

25/11/2023

Day 4 of Season 7 Mon GR Préférée follows the GR de Pays Tour du Beaujolais des Pierres Dorées – an 87-kilometre loop following a wide circle around the town of Lyon.

This four-day walk through the vineyards starts and finishes in Lozanne and passes several gorgeous towns, including the ‘most beautiful village’ of Oingt. The architecture is dominated by the richly coloured stone buildings which give the walk its name – Pierres Dorées or golden stones.

3ème épisode de la saison 7 de Mon GR® préféré, Nos GR® secrets, la FFRandonnée vous conduit sur le GR® de Pays Tour du Beaujolais des Pierres Dorées (Rhône)...

24/11/2023

Walking l’Échappée Jurassienne
Day 4 – Salins-les-Bains to Arbois (29 August 2018)

The first ridge of the day is conquered and the glorious French countryside entices us on. Somewhere beyond the next ridge is Arbois – our destination for the night.

24/11/2023

Day 3 of Season 7 Mon GR Préférée follows the GR de Pays des Maîtres Sonneurs – a 190 kilometre loop starting and finishing in Nohant-Vic in the Val de Loire region of central France.

This was the home of French novelist George Sand and the walk meanders through the nearby forests and fields following the footsteps of her novel The Master Piper.

4ème épisode de la saison 7 de Mon GR® préféré, Nos GR® secrets, la FFRandonnée vous conduit sur le GR® de Pays - Sur les Pas des Maîtres Sonneurs (Indre). C...

23/11/2023

Walking from Martel to Rocamadour along the GR46 – GR652

Perched on top of the cliff at Rocamadour is the former chateau. It is now home to the monks and clergy who officiate here and is not open to the public but the grounds offer stunning views over the countryside and back to l’Hôpital.

23/11/2023

Day 2 of Season 7 Mon GR Préférée follows the GR 37 Cœur de Bretagne – a 773.5 kilometre path starting at Mont-Saint-Michel and finishing in Camaret-sur-Mer.

This four-day section starts in my favourite place in the world – the stunningly beautiful abbey complex built on a small island off the coast of Normandy – then heads inland to Fourgères. Walking to Mont-Saint-Michel is definitely on my list although I have always imagined I’d approach it from the other side, walking along the coast from Dinan. This could be an option worth considering!

7ème épisode de la saison 7 de Mon GR® préféré, Nos GR® secrets, la FFRandonnée vous conduit sur le GR® 37 - Cœur de Bretagne (Ille et Vilaine). Cet itinérai...

22/11/2023

Every year in November, FFRandonnée (who maintain and sign post all long-distance walking paths in France) choose eight walks from throughout France and ask viewers to vote on their favourite. Each day this week, I’ll post a link to one of the ten-minute videos which highlight a four-day section from the walk.

First up is GR de Pays Montagne de Reims et de l’Ardre – a 52-kilometre loop starting and finishing in Mutigny. The path wanders through the Champagne region (an hour by train from Paris) passing through forests and vineyards with, no doubt, plenty of opportunities to enjoy a glass or two of the local produce.

5ème épisode de la saison 7 de Mon GR® préféré, Nos GR® secrets, la FFRandonnée vous conduit sur le GR® de Pays Tour de la Montagne de Reims et Ardre (Marne)...

21/11/2023

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy
Le Puy-en-Velay (28 & 29 May 2022)

A statue of Saint-Jacques (or Saint James) inside Cathédrale Notre-Dame du-Puy.
Each morning at 7am a Pilgrims’ Mass is held here and walkers can receive a blessing from the priest before starting out on their walk. Last year, I did this for the first time, and although I am not a religious person, I found the experience very moving and a fitting start to the walk.

19/11/2023

Walking the GR 70 Chemin de Stevenson
Day 13 – Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte (13 September 2016)

Somewhere between Col de la Pierre-Plantée Serre de la Can.

17/11/2023

Walking l’Échappée Jurassienne
Day 4 – Salins-les-Bains to Arbois (29 August 2018)

View of Salins-les-Bains from Fort Saint-André.

16/11/2023

Walking from Martel to Rocamadour along the GR46 – GR652

Door of the Day – entrance to the church in Rocamadour.
Inside a violinist was playing, filling the room with soulful sounds.

14/11/2023

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy
Le Puy-en-Velay (28 & 29 May 2022)

Cathédrale Notre-Dame du-Puy dates from the twelfth century and originally housed a statue of the Black Madonna, donated by Saint-Louis. It was, unfortunately, burned during the French Revolution but later replaced by the current seventeenth-century statue.

12/11/2023

Walking the GR 70 Chemin de Stevenson
Day 13 – Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte (13 September 2016)

Somewhere between Col de la Pierre-Plantée and Serre de la Can.

11/11/2023

Planning an Itinerary for a Long-distance Walk

Regardless of whether you prefer to book accommodation well in advance, a few days ahead while on the walk or just see how you feel on the day and stop in the nearest campground each night, it’s always helpful to have a rough idea of how much vacation time you’ll need.
To plan an itinerary, I need to know two things—
(1) What the terrain is like—is it hilly, flat—so that I can estimate how far to walk each day.
(2) Where I’ll find accommodation.
You’ll find easy steps to map out an itinerary that suits you at https://ilovewalkinginfrance.com/planning-an-itinerary/

10/11/2023

Walking l’Échappée Jurassienne
Day 4 – Salins-les-Bains to Arbois (29 August 2018)

The town of Salins-les-Bains sits in a valley under the watchful eye of Fort Saint-André to the west and another long-abandoned fort on the opposite ridge to the east.
No prizes for guessing how day 4 began!

09/11/2023

Walking from Martel to Rocamadour along the GR46 – GR652

The main street through Rocamadour snuggles in to the base of the cliff, watched over by the church and other abbey buildings.
Early pilgrims made the climb up to worship and pay their respects on their knees and many modern pilgrims do the same apparently (but not that I saw)!

07/11/2023

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy
Le Puy-en-Velay (28 & 29 May 2022)

The cloister in Le Puy-en-Velay.

05/11/2023

Walking the GR 70 Chemin de Stevenson
Day 13 – Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte (13 September 2016)

Somewhere near Col de la Pierre-Plantée and more glorious views.

03/11/2023

Walking l’Échappée Jurassienne
Day 3 – Arc-et-Senans to Salins-les-Bains (28 August 2018)

Tables on the terrace of Hôtel des Deux Forts – sister hotel to the Charles Sander where we were staying.

02/11/2023

Walking from Martel to Rocamadour along the GR46 – GR652

One of the first things I noticed strolling through France’s second most important religious site is the throngs of tourists and abundance of souvenir shops, hotels and restaurants.
But little has changed in the last thousand years when the same type of establishments catered to the throngs of pilgrims that arrived daily on their journey to Santiago.

31/10/2023

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy
Le Puy-en-Velay (28 & 29 May 2022)

Richly coloured fresco adorns the wall along the cloister corridor.

29/10/2023

Walking the GR 70 Chemin de Stevenson
Day 13 – Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte (13 September 2016)

In the forest beyond Cassagnas, the track had been freshly graded and had the consistency of woodchip mixed with talcum powder. It was weird enough to walk through in the dry but when storms were forecast for the next day, I thought of this section which would have turned to knee-deep mud in the rain.

28/10/2023

Coast of Brittany

From rugged headlands and dramatic cliffs, to swathes of dancing wildflowers, wide sandy beaches and quaint fishing ports—this 160-kilometre (100-mile) walk along the coast of Brittany has it all!
Although some Tourist Office websites describe the GR 34 path as being dangerous in many places, most of this walk follows a gentle route. There is very little strenuous climbing and, on a sunny day with a gentle breeze, I would rate this section from Camaret-sur-Mer to Audierne (and continuing along the GR 34 to Lorient) as my favourite walk in France!
Learn more at https://ilovewalkinginfrance.com/coast-of-brittany/

27/10/2023

Walking l’Échappée Jurassienne
Day 3 – Arc-et-Senans to Salins-les-Bains (28 August 2018)

As glamorous as it gets on the trail – all frocked up, ready for dinner.

26/10/2023

Many thanks to Bronwen Perry for sending me the link to this short film (under four minutes) showing Rocamadour in much earlier times. Date of the film is unknown but many views of the town have changed very little.

Rocamadour : on reconnaît aisément le château, ses anciennes portes et son église dans ce film. Pourtant combien cela a changé ! Dans ses rues une femme passe en tenant un âne à la corde ; d'autres, habillées en noir, la tête ornée de lourds chapeaux, sortent de l'église en lançant à l'...

26/10/2023

Walking from Martel to Rocamadour along the GR46 – GR652

Houses lining the path from l’Hôpitalet down into Rocamadour.

24/10/2023

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy
Le Puy-en-Velay (28 & 29 May 2022)

Cloister corridor in Le Puy-en-Velay.

22/10/2023

Walking the GR 70 Chemin de Stevenson
Day 13 – Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte (13 September 2016)

Somewhere between Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon and Cassagnas

20/10/2023

Walking l’Échappée Jurassienne
Day 3 – Arc-et-Senans to Salins-les-Bains (28 August 2018)

Hôtel de Ville – one of many elegant and grand buildings in Salins-les-Bains.