Uncover Japan (2025)

16/01/2025

It’s midwinter, the new year festivities are over, and it’s time for daruma kuyo, the burning of daruma good luck charms.

Daruma are named for the Bodhidharma, who is considered the father of Zen Buddhism. Daruma dolls are most often painted bright red (though other colors have become more popular). The wide eyes of a daruma are a nod to the story that the real Bodhidharma allegedly tore out his own eyelids after falling asleep during a meditation. And the round shape of the doll comes from the story that after 9 years of constant meditation, the Bodhidharma’s arms and legs atrophied (or even fell off, according to some tales).

A daruma is purchased as a good luck charm. When one is bought, the person makes a wish and colors in one eye (usually the left) of the daruma. When the wish comes true, the other eye is colored in. The doll can then be kept as a good luck token, but many people prefer to return it to the temple where it was purchased and release its spirit in a special ceremony involving fire.

Normally, most daruma are burned in mid-January at the same time the New Years decorations are burned (usually January 15), but the dates can vary from temple to temple.

14/01/2025

Are you in Tokyo this week? Come join me on the fun and fascinating Ryogoku walk on Thursday, January 16th. We’ll see sumo wrestlers on their way to the tournament and learn all about Japan’s national sport, while also digging into the history of this former sh*tamachi (old downtown). There’s even a sumo quiz to top it all off. Don’t miss out!

https://www.uncover-japan.com/groupexcursions/ryogoku-sumo-town-xyybt

13/01/2025

Today in Japan is Coming of Age Day (Seijin no Hi).

This cultural celebration falls annually on the second Monday in January.
Traditionally, it celebrates those who have turned 20 in the current school year (previous April to this year at the end of March), the age which is considered adulthood in Japan. However, a few years ago, the government lowered the age of majority to 18 and an increasing number of young adults have chosen to celebrate their entry into adulthood at this new age.

The celebration has its roots in Heian era Japan, became popular in the 1600s, and then was reinvigorated in its modern form in 1948. It’s a great day to visit a local shrine and enjoy the newly-minted adults decked out in their finery. Young women will traditionally wear vibrant long-sleeve furisode kimono, while young men will wear either suits or dark-colored kimono.

08/01/2025

Ever wonder which of the 7 Gods of Good Fortune ...
- married a dragon?
- survived an assassination attempt?
- inspired the clapping ritual at shrines?

You can find out the answer to these questions and more on my 7 Gods Stroll! There are only 4 spots left on the tour this Saturday, January 11th.

https://www.uncover-japan.com/groupexcursions

06/01/2025

Need a detox from your holiday celebrations? For those in Japan coming off of the New Year holidays, the ultimate historic cleanse is enjoying a bowl of nanakusa gayu (七草粥) on January 7th.

Nanakusa gayu is a rice porridge made with 7 herbs (or technically, weeds) that’s light on the stomach, perfect for giving your digestive system a break after the feasting of the New Year holiday period.

The tradition of eating 7 herbs on the 7th day of the New Year began, as with so many Japanese traditions, in the Heian Period (794-1185AD). It seems that the recipe hasn’t changed much since.

The herbs are ones that you won’t normally find in a garden, let alone gracing your plate. Aside from the common daikon and turnip, you’ll find chickweed, shepherd’s purse, nipplewort, a type of Japanese parsley called suzu and the attractively-named cudweed. Occasionally, I come across places (often shrines but once a museum) that grow or display these 7 herbs.

If you are in Japan, look for packages in grocery stores that include all the ingredients in one bunch - there are some excellent recipes in English online if you’re interested.

05/01/2025

In the first few days of the New Year, many Japanese will try to go on a shichifukujin meguri, or 7 Gods Pilgrimage. It’s a bit of a way to try to bring even more luck to the upcoming year.

The shichifukujin are Japan’s 7 lucky gods. They come from a wide swathe of religious traditions, including Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism.

Each God has a specialty:

Bishamon – god of warriors and protector of those in battle
Ebisu – god of fishermen and protector of crops and rice fields
Benten – goddess of luck and love and a patron of the arts and entertainment
Daikoku – god of a prosperous harvest
Jurojin – god of wisdom and longevity
Hotei – god of laughter, abundance and satisfaction in trade
Fukurokuju – god of wealth and happiness

There are usually enough shrines and/or temples (yes, the gods can be associated with both) in a single neighborhood to be able to confine your pilgrimage to that particular area. As you complete the pilgrimage, you receive a record of your stops (usually a stamp board but I’ve seen little 7 Gods figurines and other trinkets), which you then take home and display.

03/01/2025

I hope the new year is off to a good start for you all! Did anyone begin 2025 with some osechi?

Osechi, or osechi ryori, are the traditional foods served at the New Year. Originally, osechi was served to the gods (and to nobles) during the Heian Period, but by the Edo Period (1603-1868), nearly everyone was eating it. There’s little to no cooking the first few days of the New Year - one theory states that it disturbs the gods but I’ve also heard that it offers women a break in the kitchen, if only for a few days. (Also, all the stores would traditionally be closed.) Since nothing could be prepared during that time, osechi food had to last for several days and is a mix of preparation techniques to help the food remain unspoiled.

Osechi foods also have auspicious meaning. Take the shrimp, for example. It has a bent back - just like the elderly - and by eating it, you may achieve some longevity. The tightly packed kazunoko, or herring roe, symbolize numerous descendants. My favorite are the sweet black beans, a symbol of health.

Many older Japanese still make their own osechi dishes (that was my first exposure to it), while many middle-aged and younger Japanese order it from notable restaurants or department stores. Preorders for more famous places are a must and often sell out within the first few days.

01/01/2025

It’s the first of January and “firsts” are very important at the New Year in Japan. The prefix “hatsu” is suddenly everywhere - from hatsuhinode (the first sunrise) to hatsumode (the first shrine visit) to hatsuyume (first dream).

For some Japanese, the first dream of the New Year is important. This is the dream you have on the night of January 1st (into January 2nd), the first full night of the New Year. (Some say it should be January 2nd into the 3rd, so if you didn’t like last night’s dream, go ahead and try again!)

The best things to dream of are Mt Fuji, a hawk or an eggplant (we’ll get to that last one). In fact, these are such popular and lucky subjects that there’s even a saying: Ichi-Fuji, Ni-Taka, San-Nasubi.

Why are these the best things to dream about? There are a few theories. One is that these were the favorite things of the first sh**un, Tokugawa Ieyasu, and will bring you luck. Some suggest that the combination of all three items represents strength, ambition and goals. And the word for eggplant (nasu)? It also happens to be the same word as “to accomplish” or to “fulfill” (just with different kanji), so it may mean you might actually accomplish those New Year’s resolutions.

For those who haven’t yet gone to bed on January 1st, you can improve your chance of a fortuitous dream by placing a picture of a takarabune (a treasure ship) under your pillow. This ship is often sailed by the Shichifukujin, or 7 Gods of Good Fortune.

If you’re reading this before bed, sweet dreams! I hope your New Year is off to a good start.

31/12/2024

Today is Omisoka, or New Year’s Eve, in Japan. It’s the last day of 2024, and the last day for wishing people “Yoi otoshi o!” (Happy New Year!). Different words are used for New Years greetings after midnight.

Have you made any dinner plans? This is certainly the day to eat soba for dinner - toshikoshi soba (“year-crossing soba”), to be specific.There’s a LOT of symbolism allegedly packed into this one bowl. Slurping the long noodles means enjoying a long life; the noodles break easily so it’s a break from the past; and you’ll become strong and resilient like the buckwheat crop itself. (Some areas like Kagawa that are known for udon use those noodles instead.)

You can eat your toshikoshi soba while watching Kohaku Uta Gassen, a long running program featuring an invitation only sing-off battle between two teams (Red and White). The show first debuted in 1951 and it’s said that appearing on Kohaku is a major highlight of a singer’s career.

Kohaku ends just before midnight, so you have just a bit of time to bundle yourself up for a trip to the nearby temple. At midnight, temples will feature the Joya no Kane, the annual ringing of the bells. There are 108 peals, each one representing Buddhism’s 108 worldly desires. When the ringing is done, you’re allegedly cleansed of any problems and worries from the last year and it’s off to start the new year fresh.

良いお年を! Wishing you much health, happiness, travel and adventure in 2025.

30/12/2024

Another New Year’s decoration is kagami mochi, or mirror rice cakes. They’re not seen as often as kadomatsu or shimekazari (see posts from the last two days), but they play an equally important role.

Kagami mochi are two rice cakes of differing sizes with the smaller one placed atop a larger one. On top of the smaller one is a daidai, a type of bitter orange. Daidai aren’t terribly common these days, so many people substitute a mikan (mandarin).

Kagami mochi first appeared in the Muromachi Period (14th-16th centuries) and it’s said to resemble the shape of an old copper or bronze edged mirror. By stacking them on top of each other, you apparently double your luck, though there are numerous other suggestions for what the mochi represent and no one seems to agree.

It was common in the past to put kagami mochi in every room of the house to increase your luck and good fortune, but most people simply display one in their home’s Shinto shrine or in a tokonoma (alcove) in traditional tatami room. Putting one in the genkan (entryway) works too.

You can buy cheap kagami mochi at supermarkets and stores like Don Quijote, complete with plastic orange or - if you’re lucky - a real mikan.

27/12/2024

The last post was all about one of the most iconic New Year’s decorations - the shimekazari. Today, I’ll share their entryway partners - the kadomatsu, or bamboo displays.

Kadomatsu have three pieces of bamboo that usually stand at three different heights, representing heaven (the tallest), earth (the shortest) and humans. Some kadomatsu makers place the earth and humanity bamboo at equal heights, but most have the heights all vary. The bamboo are then all bound together with a straw rope or straw mat and placed on either side of the doorway. You always have a pair of kadomatsu, never just one.

Now for the fun part … The downward slashing cut of the bamboo in the kadomatsu ties into a story about the first Tokugawa sh**un (Ieyasu). So upset that he lost a battle to a major rival (Takeda Shingen), he slashed out at bamboo instead. The diagonal cut mimics the one used to remove a rival’s head.

Kadomatsu serve as the home for Toshigami until around January 7th or 15th (depending on what part of Japan you’re in), when they’re taken away to be burned at the shrine in a special ceremony.

25/12/2024

It’s official - the New Year’s season has begun! We dashed out the door this morning to catch a flight to our Christmas holiday, but I took the time to hang up my shimekazari before we left.

Shimekazari are wreaths made of rice straw that are hung on doors or over entryways. They’re designed to welcome Toshigami, the god of the new year, as he makes his rounds, bringing happiness to each household. In many rural communities, the shimekazari are made from this season’s rice straw taken from the rice harvest in autumn.

Sometimes a shimekazari will have paper lightening bolts, whose purpose is to drive away evil. They may also sport pine boughs (for longevity) and a bitter orange (a daidai) for posterity.

Don’t hang your shimekazari on Dec 29th. The pronunciation of the date is similar to “suffering”. And don’t put up your shimekazari on Dec 31st, either. That shows you aren’t very prepared for the gods and just set things up last-minute.

Shimekazari will generally remain hanging until January 7th, after which they’re taken to the shrine and disposed of in a ritual fire on January 15th. While it’s hard to part with a beautiful shimekazari, the tradition - as with so many other charms and good luck tokens in Japan - is to buy a new one every year.

16/12/2024

Didn’t make it to the TeamLab museums in Tokyo? If you’re heading to Okinawa, you can catch one of the newest branches of the popular digital art experience right in downtown Naha.

TeamLab Future Park Okinawa sits in the ritzy Galleria Mall. (A stroll through there feels like a never-ending duty free hallway.) The exhibit itself is similar to the installations in Tokyo, with the popular ball room and self-drawn art images as major points. My favorite room was the “kanji exhibit”, where touching different characters on the wall leads to animals or geographic forms springing to life. There is also a room that feels like a video game and you can manipulate physical objects to interact with digital characters on the wall.

Given its newness and somewhat unconventional location, TeamLab Okinawa is rarely crowded. We purchased tickets for a Saturday morning the day before and numerous spaces were still available.

TeamLab Okinawa is right next to Omoromachi monorail station. There is also a free parking lot on site.

09/12/2024

🍁Autumn at Hotokuji Temple, Gunma🍁

Here are a few more shots from my trip to Hotokuji in Gunma Prefecture, a temple known for its reflective floor.

Photos taken on December 5, 2024.

04/12/2024

Tokyo’s ginkgo trees really transform the cityscape when they start turning their golden color in late autumn.

A beautiful place to enjoy the colors is the Nezu Shrine, where some of the shrine buildings date back to 1705. The shrine is also famous for its tunnel of torii gates.

19/11/2024

The Komoro Castle Ruins are an atmospheric and accessible place for foliage viewing along Nagano’s Shinano Rail line.

The main foliage is at the Kaikoen, a park that houses the old stone walls of Komoro Castle, originally built in the early 1600s. The old castle grounds are covered maple trees and one large ginkgo, which mostly peak in early to mid-November.

Kaikoen is a 3 minute walk from Komoro Station on the Shinano Rail line. From Komoro, you can connect to shinkansen at either Karuizawa or Sakudaira in under 30 minutes.

13/11/2024

Here are some scenes from a recent day trip I took from Tokyo to Shirakawa, a small city in Fukushima prefecture. Easily reached by shinkansen from Tokyo, the city offers a small castle, a beautiful traditional garden, an atmospheric shrine, daruma dolls and friendly locals.

Photos include:
🍁 Nanko Park and Suirakuen Garden
⛩️ Nanko Shrine
🏯 Komine Castle
✨ Daruma-themed products

10/11/2024

The Fuji Five Lakes region is arguably the most famous spot in Yamanashi Prefecture for foliage … and also the most crowded.

For those with a car and a desire to escape the beaten path, head instead for the Hokuto region of Yamanashi.

The post features the following sites:
🍁 Lake Mizugaki
🍁 Mizugakiyama Natural Park
🍁 Mizugaki Shokujidokoro
🍁 Higashizawa Bridge
🍁 Utsukushi Forest Deck

All photos taken on November 08, 2024 (©️Uncover Japan).

Uncover Japan