01/11/2024
Part 2: The Guesthouses
“An Albanian’s house is the dwelling of God and the guest.’ Of God and the guest, you see. So, before it is the house of its master, it is the house of one’s guest. The guest, in an Albanian’s life, represents the supreme ethical category, more important than blood relations. One may pardon the man who spills the blood of one’s father or of one’s son, but never the blood of a guest.”
-Man Booker Prize winner Ismail Kadaré, author of Broken April
The guesthouses of the Balkans are such a unique and wonderful experience and feel like an integral part of running the Peaks of the Balkans. These family-run guesthouses, or Bujtina, range from rustic mountainside lodging to unique A-frame cabins to places that resemble more of a bed and breakfast feel. The accommodations are usually a couple of individual rooms or cabins shared with one to a handful of other people and all the bedding, towels, linens, and soaps are provided for you. Each guesthouse I stayed at was located along the route, and there was always a gorgeous lawn, balcony, deck, or terrace to stretch and relax at after a long day on the trails.
The breakfasts and dinners are often at large communal tables in their terrace or garden where you share plates of incredible fresh local meats, fish, cheeses, vegetables, in-house baked breads, and all sorts of local dishes (I couldn’t get enough of each guesthouse’s own unique take on tarator—an excellent side made of yogurt, cucumber, and fresh dill). You have the chance to meet other travelers and enjoy some wine, beer, or lemon soda with your meal underneath the alpenglow of surrounding limestone mountains. The hosts were always so incredibly accommodating and friendly and it was such a treat to feel welcomed into their guesthouse each afternoon after a long day on the trails.
Our Peaks of the Balkans self-guided and guided itinerary is now available at Runcation.org